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Advice needed! Ruined batch?

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BZ_in_ID

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Last Sunday I used a BrewCraft USA brew-in-a-bag kit to make a Northlands Nut Brown Ale (my first time brewing). I meticulously followed the directions, except for one point. The yeast. The generic instructions included in the kit (the same that are in the Hopped Ale kit I have from them) said to sprinkle the yeast (Danstar Windsor) across the surface of my cooled wort. BUT, the instructions on the yeast packet said the yeast needed to be dissolved in warm water (82-96degrees) first before adding. So, I dissolved it and mixed it into the wort. Within 45 minutes of putting the beer into a dark closet, it started burping CO2 like mad. Instructions say there is supposed to be a 1-2 day lag before this starts. The burping went on for a good day and a half, being so strong at times that I had to refill the airlock at one point as the gas was spitting out all my sanitized solution! Since Monday night, there has been ZERO burping (that I have noted) from my beer. I'm worried that the yeast has died off (due to my dissolving it before adding) and this batch is ruined. Would appreciate to hear from anyone on what they think is going on. I've been very good at keeping the beer at the recommended fermenting temp (68 degrees); and am getting worried at the lack of activity since the initial (and unexpected) CO2 attack right after transfer to the fermenter. Thanks!
 
Fermentation has slowed down. That's all. You aren't going to have activity out the airlock the whole time. It sounds like everything went great so just let it go another couple weeks add you'll have some beer to bottle. Congrats on the first beer.
 
Nothing wrong with early fermentation, but also means that it will probably happen a lot quicker. In some cases, active yeast can finish primary fermentation in 48 hours. Like the others have said, you're more than likely fine and you're going to have a delicious beer.
 
Sounds fine, but beware your pitching and fermenting temps! Pitching and fermenting at warmer temps can produce a faster ferment with a lot of nasty off flavors produced from the yeast!
 
With dry yeast you can sprinkle it on the surface of the wort, or you can rehydrate the yeast. What you did was to rehydrate but you usually want to let it sit for about 1/2 hour before pitching into the wort.

It is said that dry pitching will kill off half of the yeast cells.

As said, an early start or a shorter length of visible activity don't mean anything bad, or good is really happening.

It sounds like you are doing everything well so far. Get final gravity before doing a secondary or bottling. You do not have to do a secondary, just let the beer ferment fully and sit long enough to become clear, then you can go straight to bottling.
 
Appreciate all the responses; went a long way towards calming my fears (I was contemplating dumping it and brewing the Dry Hopped Ale kit I have waiting). Looking forward now to bottling and eventually getting to try it! I love me some Nut Brown ales!
 
Having not even brewerd my own beer yet (I helped my friend 2 times in the past which is why I ordered my brewering equipment last week), I don't have any first hand knowledge, but I have researched quite a bit.

I know that first time brewers are nervous and very cautious. The bubbling is a sign of good active fermentation, and no bubbling is NOT an indication of no fermentation nor a ruined or spoiled batch. Fermentation will take place PRIMARILY in the primary fermentation bucket or carboy. Racking your beer after 10-14 (racking times may be different for different recipes - just like our DNA no two beers are the same) will help clarify the beer and allow the yeast to "clean up" in the secondary fermentation.

Of course, a measurement of the Final Gravity will help you know how well the yeast has converted all that sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide.

If anything, the best advice I learned so far is to "relax and have a beer". Also be clean and sanitary.

Cheers!
 
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