Adjusting Monster Mill 2.0

[mabrungard]

Those are only good for the 2" rollers though, correct?

I'm not sure, but I assume they are for either 1.5 or 2 inch mills. Check with MM.

 

[Brettomomyces]

OK, I did. Guess I'm out of luck

They aren't designed to fit on the smaller frames of the MM-2 or MM-3. The knobs are almost 2" in diameter, and the MM-2 frames are only 2" high. They'll hang over the edges. The new knobs shouldn't be necessary on the smaller mills, as we haven't had issues with the gap holding on the small mills.

~~fred francis
MBH

 

[Rev2010]

I emailed Fred about the replacement bolts and this is the answer I received:

"All the hex head bolts allow you to do is overtighten the bolt, and ruin the threads in the frame. If you make sure that the adjustable roller is coming up from UNDERNEATH the drive roller on both ends when you set the gap, then the thumbscrews should hold. There is TWO positions of the adjustable roller where you can set the same gap, one with the roller coming down from above, and one with it coming up from underneath. If you notice the thumbscrews are OFFSET from the centerline of the knob. they are below the knob centerline. If you imagine the grain pressing against the knob trying to turn it while you are milling, you can see that the thumbscrew will either get pressed against or pulled away from the knob when milling depending on how you set the gap. We have found that the gap should hold with the thumbscrews are finger tight if the gap is set such that the roller is coming up from underneath the drive roller when setting the gap. To state it another way, the gap should get smaller when you turn the knob on the drive shaft side of the mill clockwise.

The threads in the frame are 1/4-20 and you will need at least 1" long bolts for the MM-2."

I'm fine with sticking with the thumbscrews if he says they're good enough when used correctly, but I'm really completely confused what he means by "coming down from above" and "coming up from beneath". What does he mean by that? I don't see the second roller as being movable up and down, though I'll admit I haven't tried. Can anyone better explain this?


Rev.

 

[stpug]

I doubt this is any better but what I'm understanding is:

As you turn the adjustment knob clockwise, the adjustment roller will move towards the drive roller until it gets as close as it can and then it will move away from the drive roller. It will do this endlessly: toward then away, toward then away... This means that you can actually set the gap (0.035" for instance) at TWO points when turning the adjustment knob; once when the adjustment roller is moving toward the drive roller, and once when it is moving away from the drive roller. He seems to be suggesting that you ensure to set the gap (tighten the thumb screws) only when the adjustment roller is moving TOWARD the drive roller.

But, I'll admit, that I'm not totally confident on my understanding

 

[LLBeanJ]

As you turn the adjustment knob clockwise, the adjustment roller will move towards the drive roller until it gets as close as it can and then it will move away from the drive roller. It will do this endlessly: toward then away, toward then away... This means that you can actually set the gap (0.035" for instance) at TWO points when turning the adjustment knob; once when the adjustment roller is moving toward the drive roller, and once when it is moving away from the drive roller. He seems to be suggesting that you ensure to set the gap (tighten the thumb screws) only when the adjustment roller is moving TOWARD the drive roller.

But, I'll admit, that I'm not totally confident on my understanding

This is how I understood it as well.

 

[IslandLizard]

I emailed Fred about the replacement bolts and this is the answer I received:

"All the hex head bolts allow you to do is overtighten the bolt, and ruin the threads in the frame. If you make sure that the adjustable roller is coming up from UNDERNEATH the drive roller on both ends when you set the gap, then the thumbscrews should hold. There is TWO positions of the adjustable roller where you can set the same gap, one with the roller coming down from above, and one with it coming up from underneath. If you notice the thumbscrews are OFFSET from the centerline of the knob. they are below the knob centerline. If you imagine the grain pressing against the knob trying to turn it while you are milling, you can see that the thumbscrew will either get pressed against or pulled away from the knob when milling depending on how you set the gap. We have found that the gap should hold with the thumbscrews are finger tight if the gap is set such that the roller is coming up from underneath the drive roller when setting the gap. To state it another way, the gap should get smaller when you turn the knob on the drive shaft side of the mill clockwise.

The threads in the frame are 1/4-20 and you will need at least 1" long bolts for the MM-2."

I'm fine with sticking with the thumbscrews if he says they're good enough when used correctly, but I'm really completely confused what he means by "coming down from above" and "coming up from beneath". What does he mean by that? I don't see the second roller as being movable up and down, though I'll admit I haven't tried. Can anyone better explain this?


Rev.

I doubt this is any better but what I'm understanding is:

As you turn the adjustment knob clockwise, the adjustment roller will move towards the drive roller until it gets as close as it can and then it will move away from the drive roller. It will do this endlessly: toward then away, toward then away... This means that you can actually set the gap (0.035" for instance) at TWO points when turning the adjustment knob; once when the adjustment roller is moving toward the drive roller, and once when it is moving away from the drive roller. He seems to be suggesting that you ensure to set the gap (tighten the thumb screws) only when the adjustment roller is moving TOWARD the drive roller.

But, I'll admit, that I'm not totally confident on my understanding

Wow, I never knew (or expect) that would make THE difference. I've always had to use a pair of pliers to tighten the thumbscrews just enough to keep the screws from loosening and the gap from widening.

It now makes sense, when you turn the eccenter clockwise the free roller moves toward the driven one from underneath, then away when above, once it's past the narrowest point.

Thank you!

 

[Brettomomyces]

That's great info! I was having a hell of a time setting up my gap adjustment and now I think I know why. Going back at it later today

 

[Rev2010]

That's great info! I was having a hell of a time setting up my gap adjustment and now I think I know why. Going back at it later today

Glad to share it, even if it's because I couldn't understand it and needed some clarity

I have to check this out too. I'm at work at the moment, but I'm curious to check this at home. Only concern though is I hadn't changed anything from the default setup except to tighten the gap a little, so unless they come setup by default in that improper position I don't really know if that is the problem afterall. Anyhow, we'll see. You all report back as well!


Rev.

 

[LandoLincoln]

Dang. I'm glad I got the MM2-Pro so I can avoid all this nonsense.

 

[mabrungard]

I believe I understand what Fred was telling us, but he should probably create some sort of exaggerated schematic of which way the eccentric adjuster should be rotated to produce this self-tightening effect. Does he have anything on his site with a schematic like this?

 

[Rev2010]

Dang. I'm glad I got the MM2-Pro so I can avoid all this nonsense.

There's nothing on the MM pages that stated this difference or I would've simply paid to go with the pro version.

For the record, I stuck with the MM2 standard version since it was already an upgrade to my worn out Barley Crusher which I'd happily used for three years, though only 70 batches or so which is too little for it to wear out IMO. The MM2's rollers are 1" longer and .25" larger in diameter and the hopper holds 4 more pounds of grain. I was getting a very consistent 81% efficiency with my BC so I felt no need to try to improve in that regard and the standard rollers are rated for something like a minimum of 15,000lb's of grain milling before wearing. I got about 700lbs out of my BC. So I was content with the standard when ordering.


Rev.

 

[Brettomomyces]

I set up a motor with pulleys recently and was all like, "OK, I'm going to set this gap finally and never have to touch the sucker forever" and had a lot of issues with getting grain to feed even with large gaps and trouble getting the gap size consistent on both ends. I believe I was adjusting the roller from the top as opposed to the bottom like in that long explanation he sent you.

 

[LandoLincoln]

There's nothing on the MM pages that stated this difference or I would've simply paid to go with the pro version.

For the record, I stuck with the MM2 standard version since it was already an upgrade to my worn out Barley Crusher which I'd happily used for three years, though only 70 batches or so which is too little for it to wear out IMO. The MM2's rollers are 1" longer and .25" larger in diameter and the hopper holds 4 more pounds of grain. I was getting a very consistent 81% efficiency with my BC so I felt no need to try to improve in that regard and the standard rollers are rated for something like a minimum of 15,000lb's of grain milling before wearing. I got about 700lbs out of my BC. So I was content with the standard when ordering.


Rev.

The pro version has rollers that can be locked down to a certain gap, unlike the non-pro version that has rollers that can be prevented (via thumbscrew or bolt) from moving away from each other too much, but there is no mechanism that will stop them from moving closer to each other, other than the grains pushing against the rollers.

Now, if there was a way to prevent the thumbscrews from moving at all, then this wouldn't be a problem, but it seems to me that operation of the mill will cause some vibration which may cause the thumbscrews to move a bit, possibly affecting the crush.

You could use some thread locking adhesive, but then the mill won't be very adjustable.

 

[Brettomomyces]

Dang. I'm glad I got the MM2-Pro so I can avoid all this nonsense.

I would have gotten that myself if I'd known...instead opted for the MM2 with the 303 rollers in case I ever wanted to try malt conditioning.

 

[Rev2010]

but it seems to me that operation of the mill will cause some vibration which may cause the thumbscrews to move a bit, possibly affecting the crush.

You could use some thread locking adhesive, but then the mill won't be very adjustable.

I guess I just can't wrap my brain around why this is a problem with the venerable and highly praised MonsterMill when I had zero issues over three years with a lowly Barley Crusher which has two phillips head screws instead of thumbscrews. And my problem was the gap widening, not narrowing.


Rev.

 

[LLBeanJ]

It's not an issue, Rev. Adjust per Fred's instructions, lock it down tight, and the gap will stay put.

 

[stpug]

It's not an issue, Rev. Adjust per Fred's instructions, lock it down tight, and the gap will stay put.

Agreed. I don't see this as a "problem" anymore than the extra steps needed to gap a 3 roller mill, or having to use an E-brake in your car when parking on a hill. It's just a bit of information that was left out of the user manual is all. Sheesh

Than again we DID hijack a v2.0 (i.e. Pro) thread with v1 info

 

[funnycreature]

Wow, I never knew (or expect) that would make THE difference. I've always had to use a pair of pliers to tighten the thumbscrews just enough to keep the screws from loosening and the gap from widening.

It now makes sense, when you turn the eccenter clockwise the free roller moves toward the driven one from underneath, then away when above, once it's past the narrowest point.

Thank you!

I might check on my MM2 2.0 at home! Not sure how I adjusted but better safe than sorry!

 

[Brettomomyces]

OK, taking all this info, I disassembled my mill, got hex nut setscrews and went at it.

In the process I discovered my main problem: the frame was not completely flush with the drive roller on one side. Somewhere I read recently to drill the mounting holes 5/16s to give it a little play when setting up. I drilled 1/4" originally. Redrilled holes, mounted flush, and set the setscrews using the method Rev posted. Everything is brilliant now

The adjustment knobs are like what we assumed from St Pugs interpretive post, and the path it spins is closer to an oval than a circle

 

[Brettomomyces]

Agreed. I don't see this as a "problem" anymore than the extra steps needed to gap a 3 roller mill, or having to use an E-brake in your car when parking on a hill.

Some of us set the E brake all the time cause they don't have a big P on their gear box

 

[Rev2010]

OK guys, just checked my mill. Sure enough when I was adjusting the shaft side knob clockwise the roller was moving away, so I kept going and it reversed so that it is now moving closer to the other roller as it's supposed to. Awesome. Now, last question... should the knob on the other side be moving the roller closer also when turning clockwise or should it be moving the roller closer when going counterclockwise? - (meaning) essentially turning it in the same exact direct as the shaft side knob? I ask because on my Barley Crusher I always had to adjust it the opposite way so I just want to be sure which direction is the correct way to turn the other knob so that the adjacent roller side moves closer to the other roller.


Rev.

 

[LLBeanJ]

It's a mirror image, so opposite direction but same principle: you want the free roller moving up and in toward the driven roller.

 

[Rev2010]

*EDIT - scratch the below post. Must've adjusted it slightly uneven. Now it rolls fine if set it rotating both knobs to their respective clockwise directions so that each ends moves toward the adjacent roller.

So far it seems like both rollers need to be adjusted in the same direction no? If I turn the knob on the other end the opposite direction and set the gap then tighten the screws the second roller rolls much less easily, guessing because that side is now unlevel?


Rev.

 

[Rev2010]

It's a mirror image, so opposite direction but same principle: you want the free roller moving up and in toward the driven roller.

Damn, let me try again. So basically when looking face on at each knob regardless of side they should both be turned clockwise with that side of the roller moving closer to the driven roller yes? Sorry for all the questions


Rev.

 

[LLBeanJ]

[Runs out to look at look at mill]

Okay, with the drive shaft facing you, the driven roller is on the left, the adjustable roller is on the right... the adjuster you're looking at should be rotated CW. If you leave the mill in the same orientation and reach over to adjust the other side, also CW (same direction as the other). If you spin the mill around so that the other side is facing you (driven roller on right, adj. roller on left), then you would spin the nearside adjuster CCW.

 

[Rev2010]

[Runs out to look at look at mill]

Okay, with the drive shaft facing you, the driven roller is on the left, the adjustable roller is on the right... the adjuster you're looking at should be rotated CW. If you leave the mill in the same orientation and reach over to adjust the other side, also CW (same direction as the other). If you spin the mill around so that the other side is facing you (driven roller on right, adj. roller on left), then you would spin the nearside adjuster CCW.

Ah crap, that's what I initially thought. So in the simplest of words if you have the mill sideways so both hands on are each knob when you adjust the shaft side clockwise so that the roller moves closer to the driven roller you should also be moving the other end closer by turning the knob in the same direction (counterclockwise). So if you were facing each knob straight on the shaft side is turned clockwise and the non-shaft end turned counter clockwise.

Cool. That's what I thought and seemed to make the most sense. Thanks again.


Rev.

 

[LLBeanJ]

Ah crap, that's what I initially thought. So in the simplest of words if you have the mill sideways so both hands on are each knob when you adjust the shaft side clockwise so that the roller moves closer to the driven roller you should also be moving the other end closer by turning the knob in the same direction (counterclockwise). So if you were facing each knob straight on the shaft side is turned clockwise and the non-shaft end turned counter clockwise.

Cool. That's what I thought and seemed to make the most sense. Thanks again.


Rev.

Yes!!! :rockin:

 

[chrisvaf]

Bringing back an old thread. I recently purchased the MM-2 and have been having nothing but problems with it. After reading through this thread I understand the way it's supposed to be adjusted and I have tried that with varied success. My problems are always with the shaft side knob (the opposite side knob is always locked in with no issues).

When I first adjusted it, the shaft side knob would always get loose really quickly. What I noticed is that the knob was pushed in all the way and the screw wasn't fitting into the groove inside the knob, so I moved the knob out a little and then it definitely felt like it got a lot tighter.

I crushed about 6 pounds of grain and everything seemed to be good. Unfortunately, when i continued crushing it eventually got loose, and I didn't notice until after I finished crushing the grains. I noticed a few grains weren't crushed. Still brewed and my efficiency was terrible as a result.

I'm thinking of giving up on this mill, unless anyone has any other ideas here.

One more thing, I did reach out to the company (twice) but never heard back.

 

[wilserbrewer]

My advice would be to be sure all adjustments are "snug" tight, or in German that would be goodntight

Moving forward, if you see a marginal crush, put it through the mill again until all kernels are well broken.

Don't be scared, crush until it is ALL WELL CRUSHED.

Sorry no specific advice, that's a quality unit and you should be able to prevail.

 

[joebob296]

Bringing back an old thread. I recently purchased the MM-2 and have been having nothing but problems with it. After reading through this thread I understand the way it's supposed to be adjusted and I have tried that with varied success. My problems are always with the shaft side knob (the opposite side knob is always locked in with no issues).



When I first adjusted it, the shaft side knob would always get loose really quickly. What I noticed is that the knob was pushed in all the way and the screw wasn't fitting into the groove inside the knob, so I moved the knob out a little and then it definitely felt like it got a lot tighter.



I crushed about 6 pounds of grain and everything seemed to be good. Unfortunately, when i continued crushing it eventually got loose, and I didn't notice until after I finished crushing the grains. I noticed a few grains weren't crushed. Still brewed and my efficiency was terrible as a result.



I'm thinking of giving up on this mill, unless anyone has any other ideas here.



One more thing, I did reach out to the company (twice) but never heard back.

Why not use medium loc tite? The blue color.