Accuflex Bev-Seal Ultra - length of line?

[day_trippr]

I'd say none of them have a clue...

Cheers!

 

[haeffnkr]

wow... so much for providing clarity to this question

thanks Kevin

 

[haeffnkr]

Hello,
Since this thread has gone a bunch of directions related to this line I thought I would chime in one more thing.

Some folks mentioned that a heat gun was the ticket for getting this hose on barbs.
I purchased an ebay heat gun for $25 delivered the other day.
I needed to get me second tap hooked up so I opened the new toy up.
After a couple practice runs and melting the hose, I got the process down and it is WAY easier than playing around in boiling water...way faster, and seems to make a better seal.
I put a medium sized cable tie around the barbs for good measure, over kill really.

Worth the purchase even if you don't use the heat gun again.

thanks Kevin

 

[IffyG]

I purchased an ebay heat gun for $25 delivered the other day.
I needed to get me second tap hooked up so I opened the new toy up.
After a couple practice runs and melting the hose, I got the process down and it is WAY easier than playing around in boiling water...way faster, and seems to make a better seal.

Can you post your procedure it a little bit more detail? I've got 100' of this sitting in my closet because I got irritated with the boiling water method. If the key to success is a heat gun, I'm on board.

 

[haeffnkr]

Can you post your procedure it a little bit more detail? I've got 100' of this sitting in my closet because I got irritated with the boiling water method. If the key to success is a heat gun, I'm on board.

Sure -
Go to HD or Lowes and get some gloves like this -
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
Note these were like 5 pair for $5 - love these gloves... not the price above...they are rubber coated.

Buy this heat gun -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25098189810...X:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_1334wt_1163

- Cut tubing to 20'
- Put on gloves
- Take out heat gun and lay on old table/counter, turn on low, with tip facing you/outwards.
- Put end of tubing in one hand, holding it a few inches back from tip of cut hose (with gloves on) and fitting in other hand.
- hold tubing inline with the heat gun, so the heat is blowing up the END of tubing for about 2 seconds waving it around a little...once you see the tip of the hose start to curl up/melt ever so slightly - STOP - gently work the fitting into tubing end.. just enough to get it barely started and push on the fitting..it will only go on an 1/8" or so.
- wave the fitting/tubing assembly in front of the heat at 90 degrees, so now the SIDE of the barb fitting/tubing is in the heat, moving the assembly in and out of the heat and spinning the assembly with your fingers so you get even/complete heat to the assembly- do this for a couple of seconds only - then push on the fitting the rest of the way - might need to do this a second time if needed to get it seated all the way up the barb.
- You are done

I have cable tie tool, similar to this one -
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Eclipse-900-005-Cable-Tie-Gun/15085353

- and I used it to get a good pull/clean cut on the cable tie/clamp.
(of course you can use pliers and diaganols if you dont have the tool..)
this is overkill and probably not needed... but hey cheap insurance to stop leaks, cheap clamps that wont rust or scratch you up.
( I got this idea from HBT, not mine originally)

You can do both ends of the tubing in a minute once you get the hang of things.

Hope this helps
thanks Kevin

 

[IffyG]

Perfect. Thanks for the details.

 

[SankePankey]

I do it a little different. First I put the heat gun on low. Then use a philipshead screwdriver and ream it into the hose while holding them both just above the heat gun heating just enough of the tubing to allow the reaming. The screwdriver getting hot also helps with this. Heating too much tubing and then pushing it into the screwdriver would collapse the tubing... you'll get the hang of that and might have to cut the tip off if a collapse happens. Then I put the barb on a ball lock (to be a handle to hold onto basically) and do the same with the barb, same procedure.
I do this next to the sink so I can douse it with cold water if I need to. This helps prevent a tubing collapse. Also then at the end, I heat up the barb and tubing one last time and dunk it in water to seal the deal, so to speak. It takes about 3 or 4 minutes per barb. No gloves needed this way.

 

[mothprodd]

Don't bother with the heat gun, flare tool, etc. etc. method of installing on barbs. Use John Guest fittings (requires alternative to the barb end on keg and shank side). Easy push-in fittings and makes adjusting length (if needed) much easier!

Shank:
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2502-female-adapter-bspp-516-x-58-bspp.aspx

Flare for keg side:
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2574-female-adapter-flare-516-x-14-flare.aspx

 

[Summersby]

Don't bother with the heat gun, flare tool, etc. etc. method of installing on barbs. Use John Guest fittings (requires alternative to the barb end on keg and shank side). Easy push-in fittings and makes adjusting length (if needed) much easier!

Shank:
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2502-female-adapter-bspp-516-x-58-bspp.aspx

Flare for keg side:
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2574-female-adapter-flare-516-x-14-flare.aspx

I really dont know why more people dont do this. The John Guest fittings are easy and brilliant. Worth their weight in gold.

 

[jbb3]

I thought about this when I was setting up my system -

So I am pretty sure this new gauge is accurate on this rebuilt regulator, but I see your point..
A few PSI either way could make the difference in a few feet either way on line length.

thanks Kevin

Holy mackerel. Did that pressure gauge come off locomotive!?

 

[alexavery]

I really dont know why more people dont do this. The John Guest fittings are easy and brilliant. Worth their weight in gold.

Agree. I've done it both ways. Believe me, spend a few bucks and pick up the john guest fittings. It's much easier that way.

If you're buying tubing and fittings, you can pick them up at Birdman Brewing.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/shank-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/1-4-mfl-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

Tubing is here http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/tubing/

 

[jbb3]

20 cents...thats true, not sure why i was thinking not to put them on. i guess since the line is so hard i thought it wouldnt make much differance. I dont have a heat gun either just bring about 2 inches of water to a near boil and put the end in for about thirty seconds then stretch the line with a phillips screw driver and quickly put it on the barb. Not easy and takes some practice just keep dunking and wiggling, the line that is. Wear gloves too.

I actually called the supplier and told me they shipped the wrong size swivel nut barbs. They finally talked me into trying it...

The first try, it took me about 30 minutes to put on one fitting. The second one, 5 or 6 minutes.

As Billsbrew states, heat some water to not quite a boil. The key is to only heat 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the line at a time. Heat, wiggle it on a little bit, heat, wiggle on a little bit, repeat until the line covers all the barbs. Just be careful how you push on the line. It will bend and kink.

 

[jbb3]

Good grief. I just happened to look at how long this thread was... still some good info for new keggers

 

[Summersby]

Agree. I've done it both ways. Believe me, spend a few bucks and pick up the john guest fittings. It's much easier that way.

If you're buying tubing and fittings, you can pick them up at Birdman Brewing.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/shank-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/1-4-mfl-connector-for-accuflex-bev-seal/

Tubing is here http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/tubing/

I purchased mine through Birdman brewing as well. Very pleased with the purchase and will definitely buy from them again.

 

[jbb3]

I purchased mine through Birdman brewing as well. Very pleased with the purchase and will definitely buy from them again.

I just don't like plastic fittings. But I guess they would be fine for this application??

 

[Kjuckett1025]

Is there a difference between the standard Barrier Ultra and the Silver models of line?

I noticed the silver stated PVC free, and couldnt find that statement on the Ultra descriptions

 

[Rev2010]

Is there a difference between the standard Barrier Ultra and the Silver models of line?

I noticed the silver stated PVC free, and couldnt find that statement on the Ultra descriptions

Are you referring to the ultra barrier silver tubing by EJ Beverage? If so, they are both PVC free and the Silver just has an extra antimicrobial lining.


Rev.

 

[Tommydee]

I just finished my setup and updating this oldie but goodie. I run 10 psi on 12 ft line, and pour is too slow...I'll probably increase my regulator to 12 psi and call it a day. I also ordered from birdman, and foolishly passed on the John guest fittings. Then I bought the wrong size oetikers in amazon

Somewhere in another thread, someone mentioned some pointy wine stoppers. I had some from a wedding taking up space in a drawer for about 15 years. I just poured boiling water over the barb and wine stopper, shoved the stopper in the tube, then quickly pushed the barb in....dipped a few times and pushed, about 3 cycles total, about 2 minutes per connection. The tail pieces were true 3/16, and are easier, but still tight enough to have confident seal without clamp. Now that I actually know the tubing, I would have got the John guest on the quick disconnect end, but stayed with 3/16 SS on the tailpiece, mainly because birdman pricing on a perlick faucet/shank/tailpiece/handle combo is very good, and it comes with the standard stainless.

Bottom line is either way works, and I'm very happy with this tubing. my experience supports the line not being so different from vinyl, but maybe my gauge is crap. I might shorten to 10 ft, my technique takes about 30 seconds on the tail piece side. A picture of the wine stopper attached...

 

[metaltim]

Digging up an old thread here. I recently switched to John Guest fittings on the bev-seal ultra tubing sold on ritebrew.com, and man, why didn't I do this earlier?! For those of you considering spending $25 on a heat gun, good lord, do yourself a favor and switch to JG fittings. They literally take .5 seconds to complete a connection. No screw drivers, no clamps, no pushing hard and banging your hands up.

I went with about 8' lines, and I have foam. I should have just taken the time to do longer and cut if needed. Now I have to buy more lines and I'm going to try 12'. Just going to do one faucet first and confirm though!

With my JG fittings, I know switching the line will be a breeze.

 

[BSheridan]

I just wasted about 3-4 inches of line trying to get this onto barbs. Oh my god they shouldn't even sell you this stuff without those push connect fittings. I'm going to have to try to find a way to make this work because both my ball lock disconnects and my shanks have barbs

 

[David Koepke]

It is not perfect but it works best. https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

 

[LLBeanJ]

I'm running 24 inches on 4 taps with Perlick 650 flow control faucets @ 10-12 PSI, as well as my stout faucet @ 30 PSI with beer gas. Was running 10 feet prior to about 4 months back when I decided to try drastically shorter lines. No problems so far.

Have been running 10' lines in my garage fridge with Perlick 525s @ 10 PSI for the past few years.

John Guest fittings on all connections.

 

[BSheridan]

Update: I figured out a technique that worked decent. They're not on there all the way but there are no leaks so I'm satisfied for now. Heated up the end with a flame, stretched it a bit with a phillips screwdriver and then pushed it on as far as it would go. Got them all the way on the shanks but not the ball lock disconnects

 

[Bobby_M]

You need a tool that is smooth and tapered.

 

[kxavier_23]

+1 times 26. That's about how many barbs I've done this way. Only one leaked and I re-did it.

My multiplier ended up being about 1.1. So as per that, here are my lengths for my 7.2 cu ft freezer (not too much rise or distance):
6 PSI - 7'
7 PSI - 8'
8 PSI - 9'
9 PSI - 10'
10 PSI - 11'
11 PSI - 12' - Oatmeal Stout
12 PSI - 13'
13 PSI - 14' - Belgian PA
14 PSI - 16' - RyeIPA
15 PSI - 18' -
16 PSI - 20'
23 PSI - 30' - Berliner Weisse
30 PSI - 40' - Seltzer/Soda

It's all really about the speed. You don't have to test it with beer or wait till the beer is carbed to know. You just try for a particular speed of pour that you think is good. When I put a fresh keg of seltzer water on and charge it with gas, it still comes out at the same speed it would if it had gas in it. That gives me the verification I need. I dunno, 6 seconds per pint?

I’m definitely keeping this

This goes against everything I’ve read here, but nothing has worked for me. I ordered a bunch more line and plan to try this.