This is very doable. Just give a little time to put together another diagram set for you.
What is your plan for the boil kettle?
What is your plan for the boil kettle?
55 Gallon AE Kettle system
- Thread starter wadefisher
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
OP
OP
Thanks P-J
I'm getting the outline for the Mash Tun HERMS and the Boil Kettle. But they will all be independently controlled. That way if we change the system configuration we won't have controls tied together. I want to keep it modular.
I think right now I am wanting to do 3 220v single phase 4500 watt heating elements. Just seems simple, unless you think we have an advantage to putting 3 phase to it.
If you are intending to use 3 elements in any vessel, 3 phase will be less expensive both in the build and in the cost of power to run it.
Regarding the 3 phase you might have available. Is there any way tjhat you can determine what is actually available. If your power is 480V 3 phase the question becomes is that 480 power or 240/480 power or is it 277/480 power. I'm trying to determine how the 3 phase power is being delivered to your place, i.e is it by a Delta or "Y" transformer connections.
The other possibility is if you have 240V 3 phase available.
Single elements are certainly available for your use in the system. Check out this sites lists of high quality elements:
http://bostonheatingsupply.com/rheemelectricelements.aspx
I'll help you in any way that I can. I believe this to be a fun journey for me and it also keeps this old timer from becoming an alsheimer.
OP
OP
OP
OP
P-J
Thanks for the link. That is what I was trying to find earlier, without success. I will have the transformer info soon. I will send you some 'homebrew' PM me your address.
Thanks alot
Wade
Thanks for the link. That is what I was trying to find earlier, without success. I will have the transformer info soon. I will send you some 'homebrew' PM me your address.
Thanks alot
Wade
OP
OP
P-J the panel closest to the brew room is 480v 3 phase. I have my electrician commming over soon to find out what type of 3 phase.
I have started working with Auber's PID's on 2 projects to get familiar with them. I am building a control to run my 10 gallon system in Florida and to control an incubator for my bee farm. I will post pics shortly.
I have started working with Auber's PID's on 2 projects to get familiar with them. I am building a control to run my 10 gallon system in Florida and to control an incubator for my bee farm. I will post pics shortly.
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
OP
OP
OK, electrician says its 'Y' on the 3 phase 480v panel. Have a panel nice and accessible to the 'brew room' that is 3 phase 480v 'Y' and it has space to tap in. That is good news for me. I was afraid I would have to run in a new panel from the MAIN which is 200 feet away. That could be $$$$ that I would rather spend on beer toys.
OP
OP
this is insane!!!!
(in a good way)
hammis; I'm not sure if I have gone crazy or not
but I'm doing this!
OP
OP
Diagram of HLT
OP
OP
MTLT
Element size and wattage to be determined.
Pump always runs, just need an ON/OFF switch. But Pump should have to be ON to allow heating elements to fire.
Will use a PID with 'Ramp/Soak" functions to allow for multi-step mashing.
Separate Control panel for each tank will allow easy changes is equipment as needed.
Element size and wattage to be determined.
Pump always runs, just need an ON/OFF switch. But Pump should have to be ON to allow heating elements to fire.
Will use a PID with 'Ramp/Soak" functions to allow for multi-step mashing.
Separate Control panel for each tank will allow easy changes is equipment as needed.
OP
OP
Boil Kettle;
I'm not sure if the 'immersion' style cooler is possible, but I am going to experiment. Because of the problem with other style coolers allowing the wort in the boil kettle to sit at high temperatures until they get pumped through. I think it may be a combination of the 2.
The control panel here mainly needs to allow variable power to heating elements to control boil intensity and 1 pump switch for the whirlpool. IThe Jet 05 Sanitary pump is mobile and has its own built in power switch.
I'm not sure if the 'immersion' style cooler is possible, but I am going to experiment. Because of the problem with other style coolers allowing the wort in the boil kettle to sit at high temperatures until they get pumped through. I think it may be a combination of the 2.
The control panel here mainly needs to allow variable power to heating elements to control boil intensity and 1 pump switch for the whirlpool. IThe Jet 05 Sanitary pump is mobile and has its own built in power switch.
OP
OP
Another Diagram
thelema420
Member
not sure if this is relevant or not, but last time i checked ebay had some 100 gallon stainless tanks listed for like $500. they are in NC and pickup only and no they aren't mine.
orangehero
Well-Known Member
It seems you will be using a seperate HERMS vessel to maintain mash temperature. If so, you may want to consider using a 5 gallon vessel (like a corny keg) instead of the 15 gal sanke. It will make it easier and quicker to raise the temperature of the mash.
Like in this thread.
Like in this thread.
Henrythe9th
Well-Known Member
You won't be able to clean your boil pot with you I'M chiller design,
15.5gal Herms 50' 7/8 Copper or Stainle$$ coil will work, 2500w depends on volts I would use a stir motor on the HLTand HERMS, use 1 1/2 tri clover fitting everywhere
To my under standing 3ph Elec is good for motors ie-3 phases, but on heaters a 3 ph system uses 3 elements 1 for each phase so only voltage is the advantage.
Our 500gal. HLT is 240v 3PH and has 3 elements totaling 15KW
There are 4 5500w 220v elements in our 5bbl boil pot, 22KW using 94 amps
Spend money on Fermentors and a real Plate chiller and Glycol sys. and more
15.5gal Herms 50' 7/8 Copper or Stainle$$ coil will work, 2500w depends on volts I would use a stir motor on the HLTand HERMS, use 1 1/2 tri clover fitting everywhere
To my under standing 3ph Elec is good for motors ie-3 phases, but on heaters a 3 ph system uses 3 elements 1 for each phase so only voltage is the advantage.
Our 500gal. HLT is 240v 3PH and has 3 elements totaling 15KW
There are 4 5500w 220v elements in our 5bbl boil pot, 22KW using 94 amps
Spend money on Fermentors and a real Plate chiller and Glycol sys. and more
OP
OP
I am still in the thought process of how that would work.
Yes, stir motors already figured in on these.
YES, already have large supply.
Several option for hooking up, went over it with my electrician. Easier to make the runs because less copper and conduit. And I have a panel close by the Brew Room that has extra room.
Good info, thanks
Yes agreed. Any suggestions on the Plate chiller.
EarthBound
Well-Known Member
I got fever, and the only cure is some pictures of your equipment!
I'm looking to you (among others) when it comes to opening my commercial brewery. Just sayin...
I'm looking to you (among others) when it comes to opening my commercial brewery. Just sayin...
OP
OP
Comming soon, Just moved from planning to building phase this week.
OP
OP
Okay, Construction is underway. Built a wall to section off brewery area. Raised ceiling height to accomadate process. Notice I luckily already have tile floor in this room.
OP
OP
Bought a Monster Barley Crusher, 3 roller. I repurposed a base off of an old piece of industrial machinery. This thing weights like 600 lbs. Have a 1/2 HP capacitator start motor and a double pulley reducer. This should be assembled in the next 2 days.
OP
OP
Beginings of the HERMS tank. brewers harware dot com fitting in bottom of tank for the element and brewers hardware dot com thru hull fittings for the water recirc pump. More no weld thru hull fittings and the ss coil are on the way. The other end of the tank is cut out so its open. My HERMS is not circulated thru the HLT. It is its own self contained unit.
OP
OP
More repurposed equipment. I stripped this baby off of the bone pile. I am going to make this into the fume hood for over the boil kettle to keep moisture vented outside. Not necissary in this large building if I just open the doors to the brew room, but it will be better. Doubly so if I decide to use any Natural Gas in the system.
OP
OP
Things get a little funner when we have some brew. ( Is funner a word?)
OP
OP
Started the Mash Tun. Cut the bottom out of a closed head SS drum. Used the 3/4" bung as the drain. Will put a bazooka in it. The top of the drum is the bottom of the kettle now. I saw pics of people that used cutting wheels to seperate the seem of the drum, but we used a plasma cutter then just dressed the edge up some. This is the simple part.
OP
OP
This is the stand for the MLT and the BK. The MLT will tip over for easy empty. Final picture is setting them in place to get a feel for where to put the fume hood.
OP
OP
After sending 3 emails they did tell me they were not making these at this time. That is why I ended up witht he 'Monster Mill' which I ground my first 20 lb grain last night and it worked like a dream. Quiet and made quick work of it. It seemed like the RPM's they wanted would be slow, but it worked great. The 'Monster Mill' I have is the 3 roller set up. We are making a custom hopper so I can dump in 50lb of grain at a time. The monster was less money also.
OP
OP
I have a 2 week window with myself and a couple guys to work full time on this. So I will be having updates daily.
OP
OP
Boil Kettle is just about done.
Here is the kettle and the ports we added.
1st picture is a close up of the Wort outlet valve hookup.
2nd picture Shows the following ports Center - Wort Outlet; Upper Left - Tangent ( for whirlpooling); Lower left and right are for elements
3rd picture is from inside kettle while doing a leek test. All was good.
4th Picture is from the backside of kettle showing the temp probe, upper middle and last element on the bottom.
All connections are 1 1/2" Sanitary. Pipe size used for moving wort is 3/4"
Here is the kettle and the ports we added.
1st picture is a close up of the Wort outlet valve hookup.
2nd picture Shows the following ports Center - Wort Outlet; Upper Left - Tangent ( for whirlpooling); Lower left and right are for elements
3rd picture is from inside kettle while doing a leek test. All was good.
4th Picture is from the backside of kettle showing the temp probe, upper middle and last element on the bottom.
All connections are 1 1/2" Sanitary. Pipe size used for moving wort is 3/4"
Similar threads
