50 foot 1/2 inch SS coil

[johnboy1313]

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D4QPQW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Here's a 3/8" X 25' SS immersion chiller with hose connections for ~50 bucks.

 

[djevans3]

And here's a 50' SS for $70 + $13 S&H.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Super-E...ltDomain_0&hash=item439a3b0757#ht_1985wt_1396

 

[sasky7777]

Kal is selling SS Herms coils on theelectricbrewery.com but they don't come cheap. Judging by how hard it is to make your own and how much tubing you could waste, it might be worth it. I think this is one item where you would only DIY it out of stubbornness, or switch to copper.

 

[Mustangj]

And here's a 50' SS for $70 + $13 S&H.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Super-E...ltDomain_0&hash=item439a3b0757#ht_1985wt_1396

Best yet!

 

[akthor]

So how much would you charge us to coil it since you have the tooling? FYI I need a 50 coil to fit inside of a sankey keg for a HERMS coil.

There is a solution.

I coiled 35' of thin walled 1/2" stainless tubing to aproxamately to a 10" to 11" diameter. Without kinks!

A piping bender will not work as I tried that first. You will most likely need to use 90/45 degree compression fittings once coiled as it is to thin to bend.

I had to spend close to $400 for the tooling to do this. (I had already bought the SS tubing and did not want to use copper) (I am stubborn to boot)

FYI, once kinked, forever kinked. Probaly used up 10' of the tubing trying different methods. With my tooling now I can coil that tubing in about 20 minutes of work.

 

[MaxOut]

Best yet!

That's 3/8" not 1/2" but still a good deal.

 

[Gear101]

That's 3/8" not 1/2" but still a good deal.

It seems like everyone will do 3/8, but not too many people are looking to do 1/2, doesn't it?

 

[MaxOut]

A couple of things I learned when building my coil that may help others. I have done extensive testing and determined the following-

I use a Chugger pump to pump through my 40' X 1/2" heat exchanger coil and flow is restricted quite a bit. Approx 25-35%. All fittings, connections and tubing are a minimum 1/2" I.D. accept the heat exchanger tubing is .040mm smaller I.D. I would not have been happy with 3/8". I highly recommend 1/2" tubing over the 3/8" to achieve good flow.

Another way I improved flow through the heat exchanger is to pump into the coil at the top. This reduces head pressure and will increase flow. I was looking for the best flow possible because I use the heat exchanger for cooling as well as mashing and wanted to achieve a whirlpool in the boil kettle after leaving the coil.

 

[zeus53219]

A couple of things I learned when building my coil that may help others. I have done extensive testing and determined the following-

I use a Chugger pump to pump through my 40' X 1/2" heat exchanger coil and flow is restricted quite a bit. Approx 25-35%. All fittings, connections and tubing are a minimum 1/2" I.D. accept the heat exchanger tubing is .040mm smaller I.D. I would not have been happy with 3/8". I highly recommend 1/2" tubing over the 3/8" to achieve good flow.

Another way I improved flow through the heat exchanger is to pump into the coil at the top. This reduces head pressure and will increase flow. I was looking for the best flow possible because I use the heat exchanger for cooling as well as mashing and wanted to achieve a whirlpool in the boil kettle after leaving the coil.

I'm using 50' x 3/8" with a chugger pump throttled back about 10-20% and I have excellent flow. I have a buddy that has 40' x 1/2" running a march 809 that needs to be restricted well over 50% to slow down his flow to achieve sufficient heat transfer. I also pump into the top of the coil, not sure if he does.

What kind of GPM do you think you are achieving?

 

[MaxOut]

I'm using 50' x 3/8" with a chugger pump throttled back about 10-20% and I have excellent flow. I have a buddy that has 40' x 1/2" running a march 809 that needs to be restricted well over 50% to slow down his flow to achieve sufficient heat transfer. I also pump into the top of the coil, not sure if he does.

What kind of GPM do you think you are achieving?

During mash I have to restrict the flow as well @ about 80% to achieve good heat transfer and not disturb grain bed. During cool I need as much flow as possible to whirlpool at end of cool. Saves me from having to reconfigure lines after cool to bypass heat exchanger coil and whirlpool just in the BK. I will check my records to see the actual GPM but it was around 25% - 35% less than average when cycling through coil in cool configuration.

Cool Configuration Example - out of BK to pump in, pump out to coil in, coil out to BK whirlpool in. All minimum 1/2" I.D except coil.

It may be the smaller diameter tubing is increasing the velocity but still has reduced volume over the larger tubing. I would be curious to know what you GPM is with the coil in line verses without?

 

[lonepalm]

I'm using 50' x 3/8" with a chugger pump throttled back about 10-20% and I have excellent flow. I have a buddy that has 40' x 1/2" running a march 809 that needs to be restricted well over 50% to slow down his flow to achieve sufficient heat transfer. I also pump into the top of the coil, not sure if he does.

What are you guys using to dial these back? Valve's or maybe a dimmer switch?

 

[MaxOut]

I'm using 50' x 3/8" with a chugger pump throttled back about 10-20% and I have excellent flow. I have a buddy that has 40' x 1/2" running a march 809 that needs to be restricted well over 50% to slow down his flow to achieve sufficient heat transfer. I also pump into the top of the coil, not sure if he does.

What are you guys using to dial these back? Valve's or maybe a dimmer switch?

You can place a valve at the coil or on the output of the pump. Anywhere after the pump is fine. You shouldn't regulate flow at the input of a magnetic drive pump or it can cause cavitation and or a dry pump. Regulating a pump motor with a dimmer is also not a good idea. A dimmer switch simply regulates the voltage going to the motor. Running a motor at a lower voltage than it is designed for will cause it to heat up and eventually burn up.

 

[Texan]

So how much would you charge us to coil it since you have the tooling? FYI I need a 50 coil to fit inside of a sankey keg for a HERMS coil.

Had not thought to charge people to coil thier tubing but it sure would be nice to recoup some cash for the tooling. Send me a PM and we can hash out the details. I will try to find a picture to post showing you the coil in the sanke.

 

[lonepalm]

You can place a valve at the coil or on the output of the pump. Anywhere after the pump is fine. You shouldn't regulate flow at the input of a magnetic drive pump or it can cause cavitation and or a dry pump. Regulating a pump motor with a dimmer is also not a good idea. A dimmer switch simply regulates the voltage going to the motor. Running a motor at a lower voltage than it is designed for will cause it to heat up and eventually burn up.

Got it thanks!

 

[forcabrew]

Had not thought to charge people to coil thier tubing but it sure would be nice to recoup some cash for the tooling. Send me a PM and we can hash out the details. I will try to find a picture to post showing you the coil in the sanke.

Id be interested as well if you are up for another coiling job

 

[Gear101]

Id be interested as well if you are up for another coiling job

Stainless is painless

 

[MaxOut]

Stainless is painless

It only hurts your pocket

 

[Texan]

Attached is a picture of my first coil. The sanke top was cut out @ 12". You can see the top portion of the coil which gives an idea of how large a diameter I Started with. The picture is 1/2" od tubing very thin wall.

 

[lonepalm]

Attached is a picture of my first coil. The sanke top was cut out @ 12".

JEALOUS!! Nice work!

 

[zeus53219]

I am only using my coil to recirculate and maintain heat only, I do not use it to cool. If I did I would have went with 1/2", but to maintain mash temps 3/8" ss is more than sufficient. I have a valve on the outlet of the pump to restrict flow and I also run a inline 2.5gpm flow re-stricter with quick connects during mash recirc. http://aqua-matics.com/Products.asp...scwUdUFc7RkxPVyBDT05UUk9MIFZBTFZFUztHQjIuNTs=

 

[A4J]

That's 3/8" not 1/2" but still a good deal.

FYI, that guy on ebay can do custom coils. If you look at his other listings, you'll see a 5/16" jockey box coil for $80, so a 1/2" coil will probably be just a few bucks more. I sent him an inquiry through ebay. I'll report back.

Texan, if you're up for it, I'm interested in getting a coil done from you as well.

 

[JRems]

As I posted earlier that eBay seller won't do 1/2" stainless coils. He did make me a very nice 1/2" copper herms coil

 

[Texan]

A couple of things I learned when building my coil that may help others. I have done extensive testing and determined the following-

I use a Chugger pump to pump through my 40' X 1/2" heat exchanger coil and flow is restricted quite a bit. Approx 25-35%. All fittings, connections and tubing are a minimum 1/2" I.D. accept the heat exchanger tubing is .040mm smaller I.D. I would not have been happy with 3/8". I highly recommend 1/2" tubing over the 3/8" to achieve good flow.

Another way I improved flow through the heat exchanger is to pump into the coil at the top. This reduces head pressure and will increase flow. I was looking for the best flow possible because I use the heat exchanger for cooling as well as mashing and wanted to achieve a whirlpool in the boil kettle after leaving the coil.

The Chugger has 1/2" discharge and as you explained in the above post is why I prefered to make the coil out of 1/2" to get as close as I could to the pump specs to not affect the pump curve.

I would rather control the output of the pump to either get full flow from the pump when needed (which makes the pump the restraint in the system) or restrict flow to sparge than have my piping size limit my flow.

 

[zeus53219]

The Chugger has 1/2" discharge and as you explained in the above post is why I prefered to make the coil out of 1/2" to get as close as I could to the pump specs to not affect the pump curve.

I would rather control the output of the pump to either get full flow from the pump when needed (which makes the pump the restraint in the system) or restrict flow to sparge than have my piping size limit my flow.

If you are using the coil to cool as well, then for sure I'd go with 1/2". In my set-up I'm only using it to maintain heat, this is why I went with 3/8". I figured why go with 1/2" at a greater cost when all I'm going to do is restrict the flow anyway. All my other plumbing is 1/2"ID so I am not limited in any other aspect.

 

[Texan]

FYI, that guy on ebay can do custom coils. If you look at his other listings, you'll see a 5/16" jockey box coil for $80, so a 1/2" coil will probably be just a few bucks more. I sent him an inquiry through ebay. I'll report back.

Texan, if you're up for it, I'm interested in getting a coil done from you as well.

I am intrested the more I think about it. The question I don't know the answer to is how much would a homebrewer be willing to spend to have their SS tubing coiled to 10" to 12" coil? Let me know.

If you had the coil, you would have to set it up similar to how MAXOUT picured earlier in the thread. Using 90 degree compresion fittings, I guess a flare might work as well but have never tried it.

Just getting my investment in the tooling back would make my day!

 

[Texan]

If you are using the coil to cool as well, then for sure I'd go with 1/2". In my set-up I'm only using it to maintain heat, this is why I went with 3/8". I figured why go with 1/2" at a greater cost when all I'm going to do is restrict the flow anyway. All my other plumbing is 1/2"ID so I am not limited in any other aspect.

You are correct Zues, I am using it to cool as well.

 

[akthor]

PM sent

Had not thought to charge people to coil thier tubing but it sure would be nice to recoup some cash for the tooling. Send me a PM and we can hash out the details. I will try to find a picture to post showing you the coil in the sanke.

 

[Gear101]

I am intrested the more I think about it. The question I don't know the answer to is how much would a homebrewer be willing to spend to have their SS tubing coiled to 10" to 12" coil? Let me know.

If you had the coil, you would have to set it up similar to how MAXOUT picured earlier in the thread. Using 90 degree compresion fittings, I guess a flare might work as well but have never tried it.

Just getting my investment in the tooling back would make my day!

The way I would look at the cost (upcharge) would be to use the cost of raw product and then shop for the finish product and average out the cost of what other people are selling it for. As you know though, bending 1/2 inch is a lot harder than 3/8 which I personally learning verry fast. The maybe take into concideration the time you have in making the coil, etc etc

How long did it take you, when you had all the tools and materal to make a 50 Wort Chiller?

 

[MaxOut]

I am intrested the more I think about it. The question I don't know the answer to is how much would a homebrewer be willing to spend to have their SS tubing coiled to 10" to 12" coil? Let me know.

If you had the coil, you would have to set it up similar to how MAXOUT picured earlier in the thread. Using 90 degree compresion fittings, I guess a flare might work as well but have never tried it.

Just getting my investment in the tooling back would make my day!

It's hard to tell in the pictures but I used a tubing bender I linked earlier to make slight bends in the tubing right before entering the 90* fittings. If you hold a 90* fitting to the inside of the keggle wall you will see what I'm saying these bends centered the coil in the keggle.

 

[akthor]

Second PM sent