5-15 gal eBIAB system + brewery build

[FreddyMar3]

Great write-up. Was this the first time you have gone with less than full-volume on this system, and therefor the first sparge on it? That could account for your mash efficiency bump also. What did you set your crush at?

When I did the 10 gallon of oatmeal stout ( I think 27lbs of grain), I withheld maybe a gallon or less and poured it over the top with the pitcher. definitely didn't get as thorough as a rinse as i did with this latest batch though. Maybe the sparge is the difference.

Mill is set at .035. The captain crush would let a lot of whole kernels slip through, so maybe that also had something to do with it.

Looking forward to hearing the numbers on that! I'm very close to deciding exactly which system to assemble.
Do you plan to do them soon, or not for a while?

The 5 gallons of RIS is my next batch. I think it has somewhere in the area of 25lbs of grain. The 10 gallon is for a club barrel brew that hasn't been fleshed out yet, so that could be a while.

 

[RazorUK]

Very nice! Almost ready to pull the trigger myself on the kettle and having arbor create a basket for me.... You recommended a 1/4 less diameter and a 1/4 inch more for the feet.

I take it that you are super close to the element and the sensor with the basket you have then?

 

[FreddyMar3]

Very nice! Almost ready to pull the trigger myself on the kettle and having arbor create a basket for me.... You recommended a 1/4 less diameter and a 1/4 inch more for the feet.

I take it that you are super close to the element and the sensor with the basket you have then?

Thanks! It's not the element so much as the dip tube. There is maybe a micron between the basket and the dip tube. Fortunately on mine it doesn't touch, but if they are off by even a little bit, it could rest on the diptube.

The element and thermowell have plenty of space beneath the basket.

 

[FreddyMar3]

So I brewed the RIS last night. 24 lbs of grains + rice hulls. I miscalculated my volumes somehow and ended up with an extra 1.5G of wort. Achieved 69% efficiency with a 0.5 gallon quick sparge. I only did a 45 minute boil so I could have upped that a bit to get the volume down but instead just added some DME to make up for the excess volume.

The mash was thick, but i think i could have gotten away with the correct volume of water and not have it be TOO thick.

I think 10 gallons of RIS would be pretty difficult to pull off. 8 shouldn't be a problem. I'll have to do some thinking before I fire up a 46lb of grain batch....

 

[swimIan]

So I brewed the RIS last night. 24 lbs of grains + rice hulls. I miscalculated my volumes somehow and ended up with an extra 1.5G of wort. Achieved 69% efficiency with a 0.5 gallon quick sparge. I only did a 45 minute boil so I could have upped that a bit to get the volume down but instead just added some DME to make up for the excess volume.

The mash was thick, but i think i could have gotten away with the correct volume of water and not have it be TOO thick.

I think 10 gallons of RIS would be pretty difficult to pull off. 8 shouldn't be a problem. I'll have to do some thinking before I fire up a 46lb of grain batch....

I am curious why you didn't just add screws to make the brew boss cofi filter fit over your dip tube?

 

[andrewmaixner]

I am curious why you didn't just add screws to make the brew boss cofi filter fit over your dip tube?

His isn't the Brew Boss COFI filter, it's a custom-made setup that eliminates the large amount of unused space that results from the COFI filter needing to fit past the kettle protrusions in the BrewBoss setup.

 

[swimIan]

I understand all that. He needed a filter that had 3.5 inch feet to fit over the dip tube in his BH kettle. The BH kettle was chosen for its relatively more narrow profile than typical 20 gal kettles. I asked why he didn't use the 20 gal cofi filter and increase the height of the feet from 2.5 to 3.5 inches instead of a custom filter?

 

[andrewmaixner]

I understand all that. He needed a filter that had 3.5 inch feet to fit over the dip tube in his BH kettle. The BH kettle was chosen for its relatively more narrow profile than typical 20 gal kettles. I asked why he didn't use the 20 gal cofi filter and increase the height of the feet from 2.5 to 3.5 inches instead of a custom filter?

Aah, I understand. I'm fairly sure it was because he wanted the absolute maximum grain space, and the custom setup has a much higher volume than does the BB-COFI

volume calculations. (subtracting a little from each outer dimension to estimate inner dimensions)

custom setup: 15" Diameter x 20.25" Tall
3.14*7.25^2*20=3300 cu in.

BB-COFI: "15 inches in diameter x 18 inches high"
3.14*7.25^2*17.5=2888 cu in

(3300-2888)/2888=.142

so that's almost 14% more space. Not actually as much difference as I thought it might be, so I see your point!

 

[FreddyMar3]

I understand all that. He needed a filter that had 3.5 inch feet to fit over the dip tube in his BH kettle. The BH kettle was chosen for its relatively more narrow profile than typical 20 gal kettles. I asked why he didn't use the 20 gal cofi filter and increase the height of the feet from 2.5 to 3.5 inches instead of a custom filter?

I guess I could have sacrificed the capacity but I was shooting for max OG per size. Also, the custom filter cost $300 less than a cofi filter.

 

[andrewmaixner]

I've made a half dozen batches on mine now, and have found a few interesting things.

1) the tangential whirlpool recirculation is not optimal for returning the output of a counterflow/plate chiller for in-kettle cooling. I have gotten temperature differentials of as much as 40F between the top and bottom of the kettle while just doing that, requiring a few brisk stirs to get the hot wort down into the chiller. I might re-arrange my tubing so that the output of the chiller can be easily routed to a higher-placed input (essentially leaving the tangential input unused). I wanted it all in one simple arrangement for recirculating boiling wort to sanitize, then easily dropping the temp for a hop-stand, then finishing the chill in the same manner, but that just might not work without a little manual intervention.

2) a fermwrap+blanket can keep 15gal of wort at 110F for kettle souring -- doing that right now.

3) I had no volume issues at all with 17gal water + 25lb grain for a triple batch of moderate gravity beer

Have you found the gravity limitations for 5 and 10 gallon batches yet, with or without a basic pour sparge?

 

[FreddyMar3]

I've made a half dozen batches on mine now, and have found a few interesting things.

1) the tangential whirlpool recirculation is not optimal for returning the output of a counterflow/plate chiller for in-kettle cooling. I have gotten temperature differentials of as much as 40F between the top and bottom of the kettle while just doing that, requiring a few brisk stirs to get the hot wort down into the chiller. I might re-arrange my tubing so that the output of the chiller can be easily routed to a higher-placed input (essentially leaving the tangential input unused). I wanted it all in one simple arrangement for recirculating boiling wort to sanitize, then easily dropping the temp for a hop-stand, then finishing the chill in the same manner, but that just might not work without a little manual intervention.

2) a fermwrap+blanket can keep 15gal of wort at 110F for kettle souring -- doing that right now.

3) I had no volume issues at all with 17gal water + 25lb grain for a triple batch of moderate gravity beer

Have you found the gravity limitations for 5 and 10 gallon batches yet, with or without a basic pour sparge?

1. I had the same issue but found an easy workaround. The way i have mine set up is with a 3 way TC valve going into the whirlpool. one setup allows the wort to return through the whirlpool and the other setup pushed the wort through a length of silicon tubing that is free on the other end. I originally set this up for easy racking into the fermenter when done. my ferm chamber is right next to the kettle so i can fill the fermenters in place. Once i discovered this temp stratification problem, i repurposed the fermenter fill hose to recirculate through the hole in the lid so that it returns the cool wort on top of the kettle. When i get close to pitching temp, I switch back to whirlpool with a quick turn of the valve and then let everything settle out.

2. I have been doing that as well. i have my ferm laying on the bottom of the chamber and it can heat the whole chamber to the appropriate temp.

3. I really don't have a great handle on limitations of gravity yet for a full batch but have not run into any restrictions yet, assuming i reserve some for a dump over sparge.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Got a mash efficiency of 73% with a 15lb grain bill (2 lbs syrups to add later), Mashed in 7gal with 1 gallon for a pour sparge. Had started with 6 gallons in the mash, but it didn't seem like it would be enough to cover the grain. This was my first small high-gravity beer attempt in this).

Might have gotten even better had it been a ramped mash instead of a ultra-high mash for a sour beer (160F mashed in at 165F). I also didn't bother with mineral or acid calculations this time, just RO with a small dash of magnesium sulfate and calcium chloride.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Continuing to look for the limits of this kind of setup, I've calculated and planned an 11 gallon batch of ~1.120 scotch heavy. The numbers all seem to work, so I'll see how it goes.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Continuing to look for the limits of this kind of setup, I've calculated and planned an 11 gallon batch of ~1.120 scotch heavy. The numbers all seem to work, so I'll see how it goes.

aaand, this resulted in the worst brew day yet for me on this system.

70% eff should have hit 1.110

Presuming my refractometer isn't broken, I got about 50-55% efficiency, for 11.5 gallons at about 1.075 (then I added a lot of extract at the end to make it up).

The very-full biab mash (13 gallons of water with 46lb grain) behaved more like a recirculating fly-sparge. Couldn't ramp temperature very fast due to the bag not being as good as a metal basket for recirculating (the sides don't let out liquid, just the bottom). Had a minor cavitation and scorch before I throttled the pump output way back. So instead I basically got a 2.5-hour ramp from 135 to 168. I would have thought that would give great conversion, but it did not. The actual gravity of the squeezed "first runnings" (before I did a 3 gal pour sparge to hit boil volume) was only about 1.075

I'm getting a high gravity hydrometer to re-check the gravity, as my refractometer readings were behaving oddly (extract additions did not seem to increase the gravity as calculations indicated they should). Will be interested to see if I can figure out what the heck is going on.

Edit: new hydrometer read about 1.105 (and fermentation had begun) which matches the 25.1 brix on the refractometer. I'm rather annoyed, as it was advertised as a wort-SG calibrated refractometer, but it is not. Now i have probably been taking invalid reading for months.

 

[Nmnbrewer]

Here is the exact order on the basket. I would recommend going 1/4 in less in diameter and 1/4 in taller on the feet, just to be safe. I cut it as close as it could possibly go:

(1) BIAB:
- 15" Diameter x 20.25" Tall (total basket height with feet: 23.75)
- 400 Micron
- with 3.5" Feet (i need 3.5 inches of clearance to clear the diptube)
- (3) 3/8" drilled holes in the top (as close to the top as possible)
- the drilled holes at the top take the place of the swing handle

(4) J-hooks:
- Kettle lip is 3/8 of an inch
- Kettle diameter is 15.75
- Length of J-hooks: 3 inches

Here is the order for the kettle including locations on the ferrules:
- 20 Gallon TC Fitted Boil Kettle with Tangential Inlet and Temperature Port
- Weld 1.5" Ferrule. Location: 3:00 @ as low as possible
- Weld 1" Ferrule. Location: 4:30 @ as low as possible
- Weld 1" Ferrules back to back. Location: Welded in lid, centered 3.5 in inches from edge

Hope this helps!

When you recommend making the basket 1/4" smaller "just to be safe" are you referring to anything specific that you've experienced? I have a 20 gallon SB kettle on order and am going to have arbor make a basket as well. The inside diameter of the SB kettle is approx 17 3/4". I'm going to have the basket made 17 1/4" leaving a 1/4" gap all around. This seems to me to be the best use of the space. Thoughts??

 

[FreddyMar3]

Just that the basket is a very close fit inside the kettle. Had arbor been off a bit it might be an issue but they were spot on. I haven't had any problems with it though. Some light scratches on inside of the kettle but I imagine this is unavoidable with steel on steel. I'm still loving the system. I cranked out 235 gallons on it last year with no issues to report.

 

[swimIan]

Are you still using the Brew-Boss app/controller? Do you program your own brew steps or import from BeerSmith?

 

[FreddyMar3]

Are you still using the Brew-Boss app/controller? Do you program your own brew steps or import from BeerSmith?

Sorry for the delay. I use a fire tablet and the brewboss app. Whatever version I have is somewhat glitchy but not enough to cause problems. I program on the web app that guy on the brewboss thread made (I think it's "brewing in the burg") then port over to the tablet.

 

[swimIan]

Thx

 

[Nmnbrewer]

Building a system very similar to this now. I see that you withheld 6 gallons on that big batch. Have you thought about putting the blichman down low, hooking the pump to the outlet and basically using it like a buffer tank. You'd still have a no sparge brew. I'm sure there's something I'm not thinking of but just a thought.

 

[FreddyMar3]

Building a system very similar to this now. I see that you withheld 6 gallons on that big batch. Have you thought about putting the blichman down low, hooking the pump to the outlet and basically using it like a buffer tank. You'd still have a no sparge brew. I'm sure there's something I'm not thinking of but just a thought.

That's an idea I haven't thought of. On some 15 gal batches, I've run off excess wort before the rinse sparge before to make room and then added it back in after the sparge and removing the grains.

 

[dbarbagelata]

Glad to see you are still enjoying your system! I have a couple of questions I hope you don't mind answering: I see you have a whirlpool port. Does it not stick out into the kettle and interfere with your basket? Do you get a good whirlpool?

I'm assuming the port above your main drain port isn't used for anything?

Also, what would you think if your system had a solid sided basket like the Colorado Brewing System does? Do you think that would increase efficiency?

Outside of the basket being a little narrower and the feet being a little taller, is there anything else you would change on your system now that you've been brewing for a while? Would you possibly mount your recirculation device on the edge of the kettle somehow so you can see the mash in action instead of having to have the lid closed?

Thanks, man!

 

[FreddyMar3]

Glad to see you are still enjoying your system! I have a couple of questions I hope you don't mind answering: I see you have a whirlpool port. Does it not stick out into the kettle and interfere with your basket? Do you get a good whirlpool?



I'm assuming the port above your main drain port isn't used for anything?



Also, what would you think if your system had a solid sided basket like the Colorado Brewing System does? Do you think that would increase efficiency?



Outside of the basket being a little narrower and the feet being a little taller, is there anything else you would change on your system now that you've been brewing for a while? Would you possibly mount your recirculation device on the edge of the kettle somehow so you can see the mash in action instead of having to have the lid closed?



Thanks, man!

Sorry for the delay. Whirlpool port is flush with the curvature of the of the kettle. It gets a good whirlpool but because it's pretty low the chilled wort will stratify on larger batches and I'll have to switch the valve to the accessory hose to mix up the wort. Does that make sense? It's not a big deal to me. Just a few extra valve turns every few minutes.

I put a sample port above the main valve since the port was already there. It comes in handy for gravity and ph readings.

I think a solid sided basket would work just fine and looked at doing that but didn't want to make one myself and I don't think there was a place I could get one made custom at the time. Not sure if it would increase efficiency but you would definitely have to throttle down the pump a lot.

Other than what you mentioned I would make no other changes. After 250+ gallons, I have all my calcs tuned in to the system and can bang out 10 gal of beer in 3.5 hours barring anything out of the ordinary (long whirlpool addition, long mash/boil, etc.)

I like having the lid closed on the mash to help maintain consistent temps.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Tonight, I did my first brew after moving from a good nylon BIAB bag + false bottom, to a new ArborFab stainless mesh basket similar to FreddyMar3's.

- The recirculation flow issues I had with a bag are gone.
- took 3 hours and 20 minutes from "start heating water" to "chill directly into a fermenter", including a 25 minute hop stand.
I wish I had done this from the start. The ~200 dollars I "saved" were fully wasted by frustration and a scorched batch.

Made an 11Gal 1.065 IPA recipe (est 74%, 26lbs grains) and hit 1.069 for 79% efficiency with no squeeze or press of the grains. Mashed with 12.5 gallons, hoisted the basket and quickly poured over 2 gallons of cold water to sparge.

Set the basket on a tray when done sparging, and dumped the wort collected there into a jar for my next yeast starter -- I think that's my new strategy for starters.

Hopefully I can get the whole process down to 4 hours with cleaning for non-hop-stand beers, now that I'm more familiar with it.


-------------

Regarding the other questions of solid-side baskets: IMO, while it is a interesting idea, I believe that it would be more trouble than it is worth for currently BIAB style mashing. I could see a case maybe for using one in what could essentially be a kettle-RIMS type setup sized down into a single vessel. You would still have the "old-style brewing" issue of stuck sparges, because a solid-side basket is essentially an un-insulated mash tun with a big mesh bottom.

 

[FreddyMar3]

Tonight, I did my first brew after moving from a good nylon BIAB bag + false bottom, to a new ArborFab stainless mesh basket similar to FreddyMar3's.

- The recirculation flow issues I had with a bag are gone.
- took 3 hours and 20 minutes from "start heating water" to "chill directly into a fermenter", including a 25 minute hop stand.
I wish I had done this from the start. The ~200 dollars I "saved" were fully wasted by frustration and a scorched batch.

System looks great! Glad the basket worked out for you and solved those issues. Do you do full mash and boil? I do 30-45 minutes each for most beers with no negative effects. That's how I can get down to a 3hr brew day w cleanup.

 

[dbarbagelata]

Tonight, I did my first brew after moving from a good nylon BIAB bag + false bottom, to a new ArborFab stainless mesh basket similar to FreddyMar3's.


What are you using to recirc your mash?

 

[FreddyMar3]

Tonight, I did my first brew after moving from a good nylon BIAB bag + false bottom, to a new ArborFab stainless mesh basket similar to FreddyMar3's.





What are you using to recirc your mash?

A March pump.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Tonight, I did my first brew after moving from a good nylon BIAB bag + false bottom, to a new ArborFab stainless mesh basket similar to FreddyMar3's.

What are you using to recirc your mash?

1/2" SS tubing with a 90 degree bend at the bottom in the kettle, 120 degree bend visible on top.
It doesn't actually make the mash "swirl" like the Colorado Brewing Systems videos, unless doing a full-volume low gravity beer for a super-thin mash, but it gets the liquid back in, and I can adjust the height and angle by sliding it up and down on the visible band clamp / spring clamp assembly.

 

[Irish-Brewer]

This is a homebrewer shout out to FreddyMar3 and Andrew. Thank you guys for helping me build my system. I finished a water leak test tonight and everything was good. Here are some pictures. I am waiting for the basket from Arbor Fab (hope to have later this week) and then she will be ready for her maiden voyage. I am using the SS Brewtech manifold for recirculation. Still trying to decide if I will use Tri Clamp T with two ball valves or a three-way ball valve to spit the circulation between the top of the mash and the bottom of the kettle. I like to brew beers with wheat so this may be necessary.

Sorry. I can't find the info to rotate photos.

 

[Trainman28]

Long time follower of this thread. Congrats to you Freddy, Andrew, and Irish brewer for building your dream brewing setup. I would love to build and own a similar setup. Have a Q about the ports on the pot. Are there 3, or 4 ports on the kettle? If you could explain what each port does, that'd be helpful. What is the purpose of the 1" ferrule? Thanks for the help

 

[andrewmaixner]

Long time follower of this thread. Congrats to you Freddy, Andrew, and Irish brewer for building your dream brewing setup. I would love to build and own a similar setup. Have a Q about the ports on the pot. Are there 3, or 4 ports on the kettle? If you could explain what each port does, that'd be helpful. What is the purpose of the 1" ferrule? Thanks for the help

I currently only use the 3 ports for the element, ball valve / pickup tube, and temperature probe, all at the bottom of the kettle.

The tangential whirlpool port, and the mid-kettle temperature probe/sample port, already came with the kettle that I wanted, but I find myself just capping them off. (They order them in bulk that way from China, and then do the further customization in the US.)

I whirlpool through the angled mash recirculation fitting, at the top of the kettle, because with my counterflow chiller, returning chilled wort to the bottom through the whirlpool port resulted in temperature stratification (I'd measured as much as 30F difference between top and bottom). Putting the cool wort in at the top makes it mix better automatically, and, when the overall temp hits 90-100F, I move the output right into a fermenter and it comes out at about about 70F.

 

[Trainman28]

I gotcha. I was wondering if they could possible move the tangical whirlpool to the bottom at stout. But now i may not even worry about it. And that (temp stratification) makes sense with your setup. I plan to go with an IC from jaded. I also plan on getting the biab controller from auberins with ezboil.

Looking back, are there any changes you would've made to the kettle design or setup to make things easier? Are you satisfied with the recirculation with the tangical port at the top, or would you think the SS recirculation manifold like Irish brewer would be better?

 

[andrewmaixner]

I gotcha. I was wondering if they could possible move the tangical whirlpool to the bottom at stout. But now i may not even worry about it. And that (temp stratification) makes sense with your setup. I plan to go with an IC from jaded. I also plan on getting the biab controller from auberins with ezboil.

Looking back, are there any changes you would've made to the kettle design or setup to make things easier? Are you satisfied with the recirculation with the tangical port at the top, or would you think the SS recirculation manifold like Irish brewer would be better?

Make sure you get your element port lower than the existing main ball valve port, so it has more room between the element and the basket.

My pump return return input level can be moved up or down by hand with a minimal effort, as the tube is just hose-clamped to the spring clip.

I'm sure there is some way to make my recirc return better (manifold, or COFI-tube like Freddie). I've occasionally had issue with my basket filling up and overflowing if I have the pump too high and the grains gum up the mesh basket sides. I believe that leaving recirc off for a bit at the beginning may help with this, and/or having the pump slower.
Do what ya want!

If I were to do it again, I'd not use an automated controller. While it is nice to walk away and know when the chill is done, or whatnot, I find that it is almost more trouble than it is worth. The basic controller like you mention, plus BeerSmith Mobile app, would be a great solution.

Adding a emergency electric cutoff / float switch inside the kettle at the bottom, so the element could never dry-fire, would be nice.

As far as my custom basket design, I am 100% happy with how that turned out.

 

[dbarbagelata]

Make sure you get your element port lower than the existing main ball valve port, so it has more room between the element and the basket.

My pump return return input level can be moved up or down by hand with a minimal effort, as the tube is just hose-clamped to the spring clip.

I'm sure there is some way to make my recirc return better (manifold, or COFI-tube like Freddie). I've occasionally had issue with my basket filling up and overflowing if I have the pump too high and the grains gum up the mesh basket sides. I believe that leaving recirc off for a bit at the beginning may help with this, and/or having the pump slower.
Do what ya want!

If I were to do it again, I'd not use an automated controller. While it is nice to walk away and know when the chill is done, or whatnot, I find that it is almost more trouble than it is worth. The basic controller like you mention, plus BeerSmith Mobile app, would be a great solution.

Adding a emergency electric cutoff / float switch inside the kettle at the bottom, so the element could never dry-fire, would be nice.

As far as my custom basket design, I am 100% happy with how that turned out.

Freddy and Andrew,

What are you guys using to measure your wort volume? I didn't see any sight glass or Kettle markings.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Freddy and Andrew,

What are you guys using to measure your wort volume? I didn't see any sight glass or Kettle markings.

several things:
I have a 1-gallon measuring cup, 5.25 gallon better bottles and buckets that I measured/marked by gallon increments, and a tape measure for estimation.

My kettle is 24.5 inches tall and holds ?21? gallons at the rim, so I could measure the empty distance and calculate when I care about boil-off, but generally I only measure the liquid in, liquid out, and gravities. Anything else can be estimated by calculation.


I'd like to electronically etch the measurements on the inside of the kettle, but have never gotten around to it.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Update on some brew strategies:

Split batches:
I did a 15 gallon brew day, for 3 completely different beers -- Gose, Tripple, and IPA
procedure:

1. Light base (2-row, rye, golden oats)
2. Mash for 16gal of 1.060 wort
3. bring up to pasteurize at 165F;
4. spend 1.5 hours figuring out why the BrewBoss controller app crashes nonstop (they have moved to an off-line sideload becasue of constant SW requirements changes on AppStores, had to delete BrewBoss Folder and install 2.10 app version.)
5. run off through chiller at 110F, 2.5 Gallons, dilute to 5.5ga, pitch L. plantarum + US-05 (added tinctures of .5oz coriander and 19g grey sea salt post-fermentation)
6. boil/bitter for 20 minutes (22ibu)
7. run off through chiller at 75F, 5.5gal triple + 3lb sucrose into fermenter, pitch WLP500
8. Boil another 20 minutes(33ibu)
9. chill(recirculate) to 165F, then hold temp and whirlpool w/IPA hops
10. chill to 85, add another 6oz hops in fermenter, pitch WLP644
11. done

Went relatively smoothly aside from step 4 (haha), the beers are all great.


High Gravity:
Belgian Quad (2x 5.5gal)
32lb pilsen, 2lb Special B (post-boil, add 2lb D180 sugar syrup)

1. Mash 20 minute at 144F with 12.3gal
2. 40 minutes step to 165F while recirculating
3. pull basket, pour-sparge with 3gal, (obtained 12.5 gallons in the kettle pre boil, at 1.077)
4. boiled 1 hour to 30 Ibu, OG 1.083
5. add 6 gravity points from d180 sugar = 1.089
6. cool and pitch 5.5gal with wlp500, 5.5 gal with WY1388

There was lots of room left in the basket, so I could probably push an 11 gallon all-grain OG to 1.090 very easily, 1.1 maybe