4500w BoilCoil vs 5500W ULW curved element

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andy6026

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Hello everyone.

Sorry to keep asking so many questions on here, but the next decision I have to make in setting up my 3-kettle HERMS brewery is which elements to go with, either the 4500w Blichmann Boil Coil or the 5500w ultra-low-density curved elements. I have a few questions about this, based on what I *think* is important to me (although I may be missing something). I'm planning to use these elements in a 15 gallon HLT and a 15g Boil Kettle, and the Boil Coil for that size is 4500w.

1) Heating time -- Logic tells me that 5500w will heat water faster than 4500w. Or am I missing something? Please tell me how long it takes you to heat your water prep water up to temp (and of course, please indicate your approximate volume) with either of these elements?

2) I might decide to go with an immersion chiller to chill my wort in the boil kettle (unless there are good reasons I shouldn't). Of course, the chiller will have to be submerged into the boiling kettle 10-15 mins before the boil is done in order to sterilize/sanitize it. Are there any issue with setting a copper coil down on either of these elements while it's operating?

3) Durability -- The Blichmann Boil Coil uses proprietary parts and is considerably more expensive. While I don't mind the initial outlay costs if it's a 'better' coil, is it generally reliable?

4) Safety -- About the only detailed information I've read on the Boil Coil is from 'Kal' at the 'Electric Brewery' forum, of which one thing he said about it was this:

"The Blichmann Boil Coil kettle connector is not waterproof like our design. A metal plate is used on the Boil Coil to try and minimize liquids but it is not sealed in any way. A boilover can get into the connection points of a Boil Coil which may present a shock hazard. Our solution is completely waterproof. While we all try and avoid boilovers, they do happen. (I had one happen recently after 60 mins of boiling during a massive hop addition because I wasn't watching. The outside of the kettle and heating element box were completed coated in hop bits. The inside stayed dry. Had I been using a Boil Coil this sticky sweet wort would have seeped into the high voltage/high current connection points)."

Anyone had such issues?

On the other hand, I sent Dave, the owner of High Gravity a quick ask about something and he mentioned this:

"The BoilCoil elements are superior to the water heater style elements, and worth every bit the small extra cost. They have a detachable cord, perimeter following geometry, and they are the lowest watt-density on the planet."

6) Anything else I'm missing?


Thanks everyone. It seems that I'm needing experienced guidance on almost every step of the process, and this forum has certainly delivered for which I am very grateful!
 
I had a keggle-based eHERMS brewery for a few years with the 5500 watt wavy elements. I recently upgraded to 20 gallon Blichmann kettles and went with the boil coils since the they are about the same price and I thought were more professional looking. If you add the cost of the plug, wire, enclosure, TC fitting, etc I am sure you will find they are more or less the same cost. My boil coils are 5000 watts and I really don't notice a difference in boil or ramp times. The heating is certainly more even, but I am not certain that is critical with circulation and/or a rolling boil that the HLT and Boil Kettle. 4500 to 5500 watts is almost 25% so there certainly will be a difference between the two heating times.

Kal's arguments don't hold any water with me, I am more concerned about a leaking element that is sealed with an o-ring and a bunch of wraps of teflon tape than the Blichmann design. The Blichmann plug is over 1" deep and it would take a direct spray of water to get the connection wet. It is just really a non-issue.

I would buy the same elements if I had to do it again if that helps.

Chris
 
I had a keggle-based eHERMS brewery for a few years with the 5500 watt wavy elements. I recently upgraded to 20 gallon Blichmann kettles and went with the boil coils since the they are about the same price and I thought were more professional looking. If you add the cost of the plug, wire, enclosure, TC fitting, etc I am sure you will find they are more or less the same cost. My boil coils are 5000 watts and I really don't notice a difference in boil or ramp times. The heating is certainly more even, but I am not certain that is critical with circulation and/or a rolling boil that the HLT and Boil Kettle. 4500 to 5500 watts is almost 25% so there certainly will be a difference between the two heating times.

Kal's arguments don't hold any water with me, I am more concerned about a leaking element that is sealed with an o-ring and a bunch of wraps of teflon tape than the Blichmann design. The Blichmann plug is over 1" deep and it would take a direct spray of water to get the connection wet. It is just really a non-issue.

I would buy the same elements if I had to do it again if that helps.

Chris

Thanks Chris! Out of curiosity, are you able to fire both your HLT and BK elements at the same time (say for example to either do back-to-back batches or to heat water faster using both the HLT and BK), or are you limited to only firing one element at a time? Thanks again!
 
I purchased a High Gravity kit and am happy with the 4500 watt BoilCoil. I like that the cord is removable for ease of cleaning and storage. It generally takes me 25-40 minutes to get 9-10 gallons from 65 to 155. My kettle is not insulated so outdoor ambient temp affects the time (I think).
 
With this spreadsheet you can run the numbers on electric heating times. If you don't have Excel, get the free Libre Office.

You can assume about 95% heater efficiency, and you will see that time needed to heat lessens in a linear relationship with the wattage, assuming all other conditions are the same.

I'd much rather have 5500W, but 4500W ain't bad and if it's lower density and you like that... Nothing wrong with it.

http://gnipsel.com/beer/software/calculators/electric-heat.xls
 
Thanks Chris! Out of curiosity, are you able to fire both your HLT and BK elements at the same time (say for example to either do back-to-back batches or to heat water faster using both the HLT and BK), or are you limited to only firing one element at a time? Thanks again!

I built a 30 amp panel so I can only fire one element at a time, if i did it again there is no question I would build a 50 amp panel. Since I run my boil kettle at 100% all the time, i have considered building a second panel just to power the boil element.

I have also considered adding a RiMS tube to the hlt for faster ramps. I personally would not let wort touch a RIMS tube.

Chris
 
you can also buy a 5500w ULWD Tri clamp element for as little as $35-40 shipped from china. or one from another manufacturer is avaliable more easily and quicker for $75 from brewhardware.com or brewboss.com.. Which to me has the advantage of easily removing the element for cleaning or even replacing it...

The boilcoil is a proprietary design based on a electric smoker elements and nice but very pricey for what it is considering they normally sell for $20 -30 for a smoker element with the same connector. At $160 average I just dont see how even the most expensive $75 version I mentioned would come to $160 as suggested above even with the twistlock 30P $8 plug and $15 or so in SJoow cable with tc hardware (I used a weldless 1.5" tc fitting from brewharware which was like $22) they also sell a premade cord for it as well.

I use one of these myself.
I also use a 30a circuit... I use a 4500w element in the HLT an 1800w cartridge heater (240v) in my rims and a 5500w element in my BK and DC pumps so no problems running everything together except my BK which I run only when the rims or HLT are off. I couldnt even imagine running a 5500w element AT 100% with 13 gallons or so of wort... Ive had mine at 90% when trying to achieve a high boiloff rate and the boil was pretty nuts.

element 2.jpg


element1.jpg
 
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