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Would you like to reduce the length of your brew day? Perhaps you would like to move onto something else you enjoy, or maybe there are higher priorities that occupy your time. My motivation for shortening the brew day was the birth of my daughter. Spending less time making beer means I can spend more time with my family. I've honed processes through careful analysis of brewing, and more experiments than I would care to admit. Without sacrificing quality, my brew day has been reduced to just 15 minutes, and I'm not using pre-hopped liquid malt kits. That's two batches of beer in the time it takes Rachel Ray to make dinner. Whether you are looking to minimize your brew time, or simply reduce the time, these tips for efficient brewing can help.
Tell an all grain brewer that you made a great beer in 15 minutes and I bet his eyes will roll and he'll mutter something about extract in a condescending tone, but secretly he's envious. Trust me, I know, that's what I used to do. But just because you're using extract doesn't mean you are making inferior beer. Most of us started with an extract kit, and made all of the same rookie mistakes. For many of us, our first beers had a sickly sweet taste that is unfortunately dubbed "the extract twang." It's not the extract that causes this taste, but often caused by an inadequate pitch of yeast, using tap water, or insufficient aging time (I'll tackle all of these later).
Extract beers have beaten out plenty of all-grain beer in competitions. You don't have to take my word for it, John Palmer and Jamil Zainasheff wrote a whole book on it called "Brewing Classic Styles." Ingredients are important in great beer, but more often it's the processes that makes or breaks a beer. If your processes are sanitary, an appropriate amount of yeast is pitched, and fermentation occurs at a constant and adequate temperature, most of the time you'll end up with a great beer. The easiest way to wreck a beer is by experimentation. Checking the gravity daily opens up possibility for contamination. Although fun and adventurous, using new and unusual ingredients often creates unexpected results.
When considering brewing using all grain versus using only extracts, cost will likely be a consideration. You might be surprised to find that extract brewing may actually be less expensive! Even though the fermentables made with extract will cost more than the same gravity made with malted barley, losses during the processes can make all grain brewing more expensive at the homebrew level. A 12oz bottle made using all grain methods cost $0.75 per bottle while an equivalent extract beer cost $0.69. My book "Brewing Engineering" discusses this in detail in the "Efficient Brewing" chapter.

Tip #1: Use extract and bottled distilled water.

The distillation process kills virtually any microbes, leaving the water sanitized. Because extract contains minerals from the original brewing process, there is no need to add additional minerals to the water.
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Tip #2: Use water from the boil kettle as it is heating to hydrate dry yeast.
Dry yeast stores well and can be keep on hand to brew on short notice. There are a number of conflicting methods for hydrating yeast: Is water better than wort? Does temperature effect viability? There have been plenty of experiments that you can read across the web about this, including one that I did demonstrating temperature effects on viability. While it may be hard to come to a consensus on some of these points, most people will agree that the manufacturer has a pretty good idea on how their yeast should be handled. Fermentist recommends using one half cup (115ml) of 80F (27C) water to hydrate an 11.5g package of yeast. It is also very clear that the yeast should be sprinkled on the surface and not immediately mixed in. In my experimentation, I have found that this last point is most crucial. The time the yeast floats on the surface is directly related to the viability of the yeast.
When the kettle reaches 80F (27C) pour one half cup of water into the fermenter and sprinkle the yeast on top. Just let the magic happen. Using this technique my viability commonly measures 98%.
You might wonder if you have enough yeast in one package, or if you are over pitching. You could use a pitch rate calculator, but it's really even easier than that. Each 11.5g package of yeast contains enough cells to ferment 7lbs (3kg) of extract.[1] If the recipe is anywhere between 4 and 12lbs of extract I'll just use a whole package. If the beer is over or under pitched by a factor of two, it often goes unnoticed. Using the yeast directly from the package reduces the chance of contamination, speeds brewing, and simplifies the process.
Tip #3: Reduce the boil volume.
When I was learning to brew beer it was drilled in my head that a bigger boil means better beer. While this may be the case when brewing with all grain, this is simply not the case when brewing with extracts. When all grain brewing, large mash water volumes increase the sugar extraction efficiency, but with extracts, the sugar has already been extracted. Dried malt extract has already been boiled by the maltster and then packaged and sealed. The chance of contamination is very low if the package has not been opened, and furthermore, bacteria are not able to propagate easily without water. So, only boil what you must- the hops and grains. You may have heard that some malt extract is required in order to isomerize the alpha acids, but anyone who has made hop tea can tell all you need is hot water.
Tip #4: Only boil enough water to achieve the correct fermentation temperature.
Put your immersion chiller in the closet and don't worry about having enough ice, because you aren't going to need either of them. Boiling wort can be combined with refrigerated distilled water to result in wort that is at the target fermentation temperature. Generally you'll want to boil one sixth of your wort and use refrigerated water for the rest. I typically boil about one or two quarts (or liters) for a 1.5 gallon (6 liter) batch. When water of two different temperatures is combined the resulting temperature is the weighted average of the two temperatures. This can be expressed by the following equation:
(V_boil T_boil+V_water T_water)/(V_boil+V_water )=T_result
What might be more useful would be to solve for the ratio of volumes given the target fermentation temperature and your refrigerator temperature.
V_boil/V_water =(T_result-T_water)/(T_boil-T_result )
You can use this equation as is, or use the table below to determine the amount of boiling water to add. To use this chart, find where the temperature of your refrigerated water intersects with your target fermentation temperature. The percent listed at this location in the chart tells you what percentage of your total water volume should be boiling water, the rest of your water will be refrigerated water.
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With these tips, you can reduce the amount of time you spend in the kitchen, and enjoy more time with you friends, family, or just enjoying your beer.
Keep an eye out for more posts on 15 minute brewing.
[1] At 21 billion cells per gram, each 11.5g package contains 242billion cells. A pitch rate of 0.75 billion cells per L/P is equal to 0.75 billion cells per 10g or 75 billion cells per kg. 242 billion cells / 75 billion cells per kg of extract = 3.23kg)
***
When Steven isn't busy writing for HomeBrewTalk or brewing great beers he can be found on his blog, WoodlandBrew.com. Please show Steven our support by visiting his blog and signing up for updates!

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It would be nice to see an accurate title on this article.
4 Tips for Making Great Beer in 15 Minutes*
This is a little bit like the adverts for TV providers. eg Direct TV cost just $19 a month*
The asterisk denoting additional costs or in the case of brewing time not included.
Total time= Setup, Mash (delete for extract), heat wort to boil, boil, chill, transfer + pitch yeast, cleanup
There is no way setup, cleanup and heat wort to boil and transfer can be completed in 15 mins so even if the boil takes 0 mins this article is erroneously titled. id be guessing 60-90 mins might be doable with this technique. But that would not have the same impact in the title.
Also I have two kids, do AG BIAB and enjoy the process immensely from planning to drinking the end product. During the mash and boil I can play with them, feed them, clean up etc. There are a few steps where the process requires my undivided attention but the majority of the 4-5 hr process I can do other things.
This article has not taught me anything new nor has it enlightened me further on extract brewing. I too feel the tone of the article to be poorly thought out. I am a new brewer <10 batches so have plenty to learn here. Just not reading it in the article. Thanks to the author for posting though. I wish him every success.
 
@WoodlandBrew I agree with jbob7171, your price comparison is wrong. You appear to use bulk extract prices, but not bulk grain prices. This is not an apples to apples comparison.
Why don't you adjust your all grain volumes to account for trub loss? Here is a good article on water volume calculation for all grain brewing: http://www.brew365.com/technique_calculating_mash_water_volume.php
You may need to use a bit more grain to account for losses, but not enough to make extract cheaper. All grain will be cheaper every time.
 
I'm fascinated by the idea of removing the need for cooling wort with extract brewing - also in reducing the time to get wort to a boil by making much less of it and adding a large part (or all) of the extract at the end of the boil. If the hops will really do their thing in the absence of the malt?
Since hop utilization decreases as OG increases (Palmer, How to Brew) then the maximum hop utilization ought to occur boiling hops with plain water(?). In which case that would cut down the cost of hops too - even if you still needed a 45 minute boil to get good bittering (it would be so efficient that 45 mins rather than 60 would be plenty).
I think the trub factor is to do with a greater loss of volume to trub in all grain vs extract - hence that's part of the equation of cost. So extract has lower trub losses and lower heating costs in it's favor (and lower equipment costs) and all grain has the price of grain vs extract in it's favor cost wise.
Regardless of comments about comparative cost and quality it's nevertheless interesting that there might be a couple of efficiencies for extract brewers that would save time and money (less time to boil - forget about how much less; lower fuel costs) and potentially better hygiene (instant cooling).
Certainly a thought provoking article and not worthy of some of the worst of the negative comments it has received.
 
Brewers make wort, yeast makes beer. If you're just buying wort that someone else already made (extract "brewing")and boiling it for 15 minutes what are you really doing?
 
Hey man, sorry you're getting flamed so bad in here. I'm interested in what you've got to say, and I look forward to the other articles in the series.
 
@MDLXXX-BOC: Many people get into the hobby brewing with extract. Many people stay in the hobby by brewing extract. I don't think its our place to tell them they aren't doing it right. So-to answer your questions: If they are making wort in 15 minutes they are brewing, just like the rest of us.
I could look at your cobbed-together cooler mash tun and turkey fryer setup and say you aren't really brewing either, standing in front of a 7 BBL stainless steel steam-jacketed system. Its all relative.
 
@richardtmorgan: You don't have to wait for WoodlandBrew to tell you about how to do this....Charlie Papazian wrote about this method 30 years ago in the Complete Joy of Homebrewing. I'm sure he will have some refinement to the process, but lets not forget to give credit where due and recognize the fact this is retread topic.
WoodlandBrew: take this in the spirit in which it is given, but I think you could have done a much better job writing this and rolling this series out (Indicating that this is to be a series more clearly would have been a good first step!). Using this first article to lay out the idea and to "sell" the process would have been good, instead of throwing down some random techniques (rehydrating yeast, top-off water, etc.) with no other context for them.
Also, I think you need to be more in tune with your audience. When it comes to homebrewing, as a group you are going to find this audience very well informed and engaged. Don't expect that you are going to roll-out something that a bunch of other folks haven't already thought of. Many of us started homebrewing using the partial boil technique of CP's going on 30 years ago. I look forward to seeing what improvements you bring to the process (and why you do them), but be prepared for some push-back on your assertions. Good luck!
 
I am all for cutting down brew time where appropriate but i have to agree with a lot of comments. seems more like a shameless advertisement for a book and site than anything that is really helpful.
Look, commercial breweries (at least the HUGE ones) are all about efficiency and making their beer the cheapest, fastest way but still getting the results you want (IE: good beer) If this were all true, dont you think more commercial breweries would be practicing brewing in this manor instead of all grain, full boil, etc.??? I have had some pretty good extract beers, but i would challenge that the same beer brewed on a good all grain system with someone that knows their system and how to use it would produce a better beer. I dont know. as someone said, if you want a great beer in 15 min, go grab one at the store.
 
@broadbill My question was: If you're not making wort but, simply buying wort that someone else made and boiling it a little while, you're not actually brewing so, what then is it that you are really doing? My question has nothing to do with the equipment used.
 
@MDLXXX-BOC When does any extract brewer become a big boy brewer in your mind? How long does one have to boil their wort to join the club or should we just call them 'boilers' and shoo them off to another forum? You're also ignoring everything that a brewer must do after the wort goes into the fermenter.
After finishing this reply, I've decided that you're either way too defensive or you're just trolling the extract 'brewing' crowd.
 
@mdbrewer1: It's not a matter of how long one is taking to brew; It's a matter of whether you are actually making wort or simply buying wort that someone else made. Brewers don't make beer. Yeast makes beer. Brewers make wort. I understand that once the yeast is pitched into the wort there are some important factors that affect the quality of the eventual beer but, at that point the brewing is done and fermentation is taking place. I'm not trying to shame anyone for using extract. But, when we lose sight of the fact that brewing, in its essence, is MAKING extract, i.e. converting starches into fermentable sugars, we get claims that one can brew a wort in 15 minutes. No! The brewer who actually made that extract took a whole lot longer than 15 minutes to brew it. Forgive me if my tone is coming off as offensive. That's not my intention. I haven't said anything about "big boy brewers" or suggested anyone should go somewhere else. To answer your first question: "When does an extract brewer become a big boy brewer (sic) in your mind?" I say, when he mashes malts that he got from a big boy maltster.
 
Scroll back up to the article and read tip #one. Why is it that there is no need to add minerals to the distilled water? Answer: "Because extract contains minerals from the ORIGINAL BREWING PROCESS." (emphasis mine)
 
There are some interesting dogma-breaking points here. More details on how to handle specialty grain steeping and how to change your approach to hop bitterness versus flavor would be helpful. Some sample recipes would illustrate your approach.
 
As someone who has been on this forum as an observer for years, I am so sad to see the way some of you people are treating the author of this article. You've been meaning, offensive, and incredibly condescending. A lot of you are lucky I'm not an administrator or you'd be finding a new forum to troll. Also to say an extract brewer is not a brewer, really pisses me off. A lot of us got started with extract and if someone was to tell me back then that I'm not a brewer or that I'm not brewing until I go all grain, I may have given up right then. This hobby should bring us together not rip us apart. So for the sake of the future of our hobby, think before you speak.
 
I quite honestly apologize for any offense taken from my comments. I seem to have trouble saying what I'm trying to say without stirring up emotions and pissing people off. I'm a frequent visitor of the O.P.'s blog and have learned a lot from his research, and look forward to seeing more stuff from him here. I am a new member here but, I am not a troll (unless I don't really understand what a troll is, in which case maybe I really am a troll) and, as I said before, I have no interest in shaming someone for buying malt extract. The only reason that I point out the distinction between buying extract and brewing extract is that there is just something eerie about the whole concept of the original post. How far can you take that approach and still say you are brewing? What if some day someone were to offer a smackpack of yeast and concentrated wort that you just open and pour into a carboy full of distilled water? My assertion is that brewing (in regard to the process of making beer) is a very specific thing, i.e. converting starches into fermentable sugars (mashing). Again I sincerely apologize for any offense I have caused by saying so; However, so far, I haven't heard anyone refute my assertion--only that it's offensive.
 
I don't see any trolls in here. I see engaged home brewers asking legitimate questions on the bold claim of making beer in 15 minutes that the article wasn't able to answer. Maybe the next articles in his series will do just that. We shall see.
Telling people you would kick them off the site for disagreement, asking serious questions, and offering constructive criticism (which some may view as harsh, I guess) is a little over the top.
 
I find the beauty of this hobby to be in the recipe development and the proprietary feelings that come with pulling something out of thin air and over the course of a few weeks turning that thought in to a truly special liquid that I have never before experienced.
If I want to make a 15 minute beverage I will make cider. This is still misleading when I consider the extra hours involved in cleaning and bottling.
I enjoy reading about brewing with extract in the manner that it is easier and requires less equipment therefore attracting new brewers into the hobby, however, to take place the emphasis that an abbreviated version of extract brewing is superior to all grain seems ludicrous at best.
 
For Briess DME, they brew it at 16P and their water has 63 ppm SO4, 28 ppm Cl and "moderate hardness" which I assume to be 90 ppm CaCO3 (wiki shows moderate hardness as 61-120 ppm CaCO3) with 26 ppm Ca and 6 ppm Mg. If you brew at 8P, you half those quantities if using all distilled water. If you brew at 12P, you use 75% of those quantities and so on.
Nate
 

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