36 hours into first keg (questions)

[Clonefan94]

I don't see a problem with filtering. When I first started brewing, I actually thought about building a filter set up. I'd be interested to see how "green" a beer really tasted if it were filtered. Basically, I'm just wondering how much suspended yeast may be the contributor to "green" beer.

I'm pretty lucky now though, my pipeline has been established and none of my beers ever get tapped until they've been sitting for at least 6 weeks. When brewing I put 1/2 a whirlflock tablet in at 15 minutes left, then, I usually primary for 3 weeks. After that, if I have an open keg, I go ahead and keg it. From there it just sits in the corner behind my bar and I pressurize it with CO2 at least once a day (If I remember I do it in the morning, then again, in the evening.) Three weeks of this actually puts a decent amount of CO2 in the beer. Once it gets in the fridge, and cools to temp, it's got a decent amount of CO2 in it at that point. Even so, I usualy let them sit for a week. This process leads to really clear beer after about the first two pints are pulled. Usually by the end of week #2 on tap, it's as clear as any commercial Ale I've ever seen.

This works for me as so far, I've been able to brew regularly and keep a nice pipeline going. So, I've always got something sitting and waiting for a spot. If I didn't have this, and was looking for a way to quick turnaround beers, I'd think filtering would be one of my first stops.

 

[rustym]

...It just requires patience and planning.

This is the key!

I can see trying to quick carb a keg if you need it fast but you can not rush fermentation. 6 weeks for most beers (for me), some longer. My beer is always clear and carbonated. That is also a reason that some people get turned off by homebrew. They try something that somebody rushed through and it's cloudy, yeasty and green. If you gotta have a beer, go buy some but have patience with your beer and it will reward you!

 

[orion7144]

I agree with this but it depends on the beer type. An example is the BM Centennial that everyone seems to like. I go from grain to glass in 10 if need be and it is clear and good. I do use the wirflock (sp?) tabs in the boil and cold crash in the keg for a day. In a rush I have force carb but with my current pipeline it is not necessary. I have left it in primary (I only use primary) up to 3 weeks and can not tell a difference from my normal 7 days with that recipe.

EDIT: The yeast I have used makes a difference too. The Centennial calls for Notty and I like the US05. Notty takes off and finishes faster by at least a day (in my brief brewing history) than the US05.

This is the key!

I can see trying to quick carb a keg if you need it fast but you can not rush fermentation. 6 weeks for most beers (for me), some longer. My beer is always clear and carbonated. That is also a reason that some people get turned off by homebrew. They try something that somebody rushed through and it's cloudy, yeasty and green. If you gotta have a beer, go buy some but have patience with your beer and it will reward you!

 

[day_trippr]

"Mmmmm! 10 day beer!"

Having trouble visualizing anyone actually saying that...

Cheers!

 

[i8beer]

Give yourself three weeks in the primary, not two. Cold crash before kegging. Good to go.

Exactly my routine

 

[orion7144]

"Mmmmm! 10 day beer!"

Having trouble visualizing anyone actually saying that...

Cheers!

You obviously have not seen this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f66/centennial-blonde-simple-4-all-grain-5-10-gall-42841/

 

[chickypad]

I agree with this but it depends on the beer type. An example is the BM Centennial that everyone seems to like. I go from grain to glass in 10 if need be and it is clear and good. I do use the wirflock (sp?) tabs in the boil and cold crash in the keg for a day. In a rush I have force carb but with my current pipeline it is not necessary. I have left it in primary (I only use primary) up to 3 weeks and can not tell a difference from my normal 7 days with that recipe.

EDIT: The yeast I have used makes a difference too. The Centennial calls for Notty and I like the US05. Notty takes off and finishes faster by at least a day (in my brief brewing history) than the US05.

You point out the important things here - this is a case where you know the recipe, know the yeast, and have a low gravity beer in a style that doesn't benefit from aging. I'm betting you also took care of fermentation - pitch rate, temp, etc. to avoid off flavors and need to "clean up". Sounds good to me.

 

[day_trippr]

You point out the important things here - this is a case where you know the recipe, know the yeast, and have a low gravity beer in a style that doesn't benefit from aging.

Beat me to it.

Sounds good to me.

I'd have to try it, but I've never even attempted to brew anything below 60 points, never mind low IBUs...

Cheers!

 

[Yooper]

Give yourself three weeks in the primary, not two. Cold crash before kegging. Good to go.

I don't ever go three weeks in the primary, and I don't cold crash before kegging.

But if I use a non-flocculant yeast, I let the kegs sit in the kegerator for 24 hours and then pull 3-4 ounces out as it's very yeasty. But then it's pretty clear.

 

[BansheeRider]

Thanks for all the advice. This was my first batch kegged and I was a bit eager to get my batch in the keg. I had issues with this batch in the begining and ended up pitching 2 packets of US05 yeast to finish fermentation. I did taste the beer and it tastes great. I do like filtering because it only takes about 20 min and the beer is instantly clear. I used a 3-5 micron filter so surely there is still yeast in the beer. I understand about green beer but I think the beer will get better over time in the kegerator. I still have bottles to drink so I'm covered. I will be getting a pipeline established once I modify the door on my kegerator. My fermenter is empty and needs something in it ASAP. My next batch I will be using a tablet of whirfloc or irish moss to aid in the clearing of the beer. I will also use the set and forget method when carbonating since it will take a while to empty my first keg.

This has been a learning experience for sure. Everything that has been said will be kept in my mental tool box I have about 5 batches under my belt and I'm still learning everyday.

 

[res291que]

For those of you against filtering and insisting on long term aging you should take a look into professional processes and talk to a few yeast experts. Most ale fermentations are complete in less than a week and most yeast experts say no longer than 14 days on an ale yeast cake. I personally have had a batch (or two) on the yeast cake for over 6 weeks with no off flavors. However, most beers are done within the course of 4-5 days. If ALL beers needed bulk aging for 3- 6 weeks prices of commercial beers ( not fizzy yellow stuff) would be astronomical and people like me would not be able to afford that luxury. I will agree most beers do benefit from aging and most homebrews fit into this category, but filtering does speed the process and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it so for this guy who just is starting out and wants to drink his beer now I say kudos!!!

 

[kombat]

res291que, we're all well aware that the large commercial breweries use particular techniques and equipment to get the turnaround time on their beers as low as possible, including filtering. The issue is that in addition to chill haze, filtering also removes yeast and flavour compounds, including hop character. While this may be a mere annoyance for home brewers who keg, it can be a deal-breaker for people who bottle-carb, as you NEED to leave that yeast in the beer.

 

[stratslinger]

For those of you against filtering and insisting on long term aging you should take a look into professional processes and talk to a few yeast experts.

Sorry, but professional process and homebrew process, when it comes to fermentation, and yeast pitching in particular, often are two very different beasts. The pros pitch a significantly higher cell count of significantly fresher yeast - they're not pitching a couple packets of dry yeast per five gallons of wort. That's going to dramatically change the characteristics of the fermentation they see, vs the fermentation we see. Plus you add in the additional dynamic of the increased volume of their fermenters that will lead to autolysis of yeast, where our homebrew-level equipment will now, and they have significant impetus to get the beer of the yeast for better or for worse that goes beyond the financial.

Bottom line, you're comparing apples to cadillacs.