30 min mash Success!

[Psylocide]

I've read this entire thread.

Anyone do the 45 minute mash with an appreciable percentage
of wheat malt?

Always heard to mash longer with wheat as it has less
enzymes.

All the Best,
D. White

Nope, but this recipe that was the original subject of this thread was a 30 min mash. Efficiency was my standard ~75%.

About 43% wheat.

4.5 gal batch
OG 1.052
FG 1.010
IBU - ~62

4.6 lbs American 2-Row
3.4 lbs American White Wheat
.75 lbs Crystal 40L

Mash at 152°

.5 oz Magnum (13% AA) @ 60 mins - 29 IBU
.5 oz Centennial (11% AA) @ 30 mins - 17 IBU
.5 oz Centennial (11% AA) @ 15 mins - 11 IBU
.5 oz Cascade (5% AA) @ 15 mins - 6 IBU
.5 oz Cascade (5% AA) Flameout/hopstand
.5 oz Simcoe (13% AA) Flameout/hopstand

1 pkt re-hydrated US-05
Ferment @ 63° for 5 days, raise to ~66° by day 14.

1 oz Centennial - Dry hop 5 days
1 oz Cascade - Dry hop 5 days


4.5 gal batch because I was just using up ingredients I had.

 

[Psylocide]

Oh... and just for funsies, 30 min mash SMaSH MO/Amarillo.

I mean... look at the head on this thing. Brewed on 4/12, Kegged on 4/26... almost kicked. Fawk.

That hop haze tho.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Not sure less enzymes is the rub, wheat is also smaller and harder kernel, which may be crushed less and needs additional attention. FWIW, there's malted and regular wheat. I think healthy modern 2 row brings plenty of enzymes, but if the wheat starch isn't readily accessible???

 

[Gavin C]

Oh... and just for funsies, 30 min mash SMaSH MO/Amarillo.

I mean... look at the head on this thing. Brewed on 4/12, Kegged on 4/26... almost kicked. Fawk.

That hop haze tho.

Looks like the keg is about to kick with the haze. Scrumdidlyumptous looking head.

Edit: I'm an idiot. i just reread, keg is about to kick. Sorry for your soon to be loss. You'll always have the memories.

 

[masskrug]

I've done two AG BIAB quick brews: 30 min mash, 30 minute boil, 2 week ferment. Efficiency sucked at 69%. They were both Blondes, but I expect them to be okay. Will report back...

 

[Psylocide]

I've done two AG BIAB quick brews: 30 min mash, 30 minute boil, 2 week ferment. Efficiency sucked at 69%. They were both Blondes, but I expect them to be okay. Will report back...

What was your mash efficiency?

How does your crush look?

 

[masskrug]

I double crushed for 60 minutes, and single crushed for 30. It didn't matter, they both came out the same. My rollers are set at 0.90mm thickness.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Efficiency sucked at 69%. ...

Haha is this a double entrendre?

J/k

69 efficiency is not so horrible, are you sure your numbers are accurate?

 

[Psylocide]

Walp... did another 30 min Mash, right around 75% efficiency this time around. I seem to hover right around there with my current method.

I used Whirlfloc for the first time ever... it was amazing. I wouldn't forego this addition if you are doing no-chill brewing, my post boil OG sample was crazy clear. Pitched yeast Sunday morning, had active fermentation by Sunday night and clearing by Wednesday.

Just the Tip APA

5.5 gal
1.055 OG
60ish IBU

10 lbs 2-Row
.5 lb Crystal 60
.5 lb Carapils

.5 oz Columbus FWH
.5 oz Columbus @ 15
.5 oz Australian Galaxy @ 15
3 oz Fresh Blue Spruce tips @ 15
Whirlfloc Tab @ 15
.5 oz Australian Galaxy F/O - Hopstand
1 oz Cascade F/O - Hopstand
1 oz Simcoe F/O - Hopstand
Rehydrated Notty

Mashed @ 154°, expecting 1.010 or so FG.

 

[Gavin C]

Just the Tip


View attachment 282453

Giggity...

Looks like you'd had a few shower beers prior to this brew judging by the questionable focus in this pic.

I'm thinking of going the opposite route (time wise) for my next brew. Want to get a few lagers going so am thinking of trying either a decoction mash or a step mash. I've not done either yet am would like to see how easy/tricky one is with BIAB.

 

[Psylocide]

Giggity...

Looks like you'd had a few shower beers prior to this brew judging by the questionable focus in this pic.

I'm thinking of going the opposite route (time wise) for my next brew. Want to get a few lagers going so am thinking of trying either a decoction mash or a step mash. I've not done either yet am would like to see how easy/tricky one is with BIAB.

Lol... it was on top of the washing machine while it was on. I would have failed photography class.

Just wanted to show the clarity vs. previous samples without Whirlfloc.


Without:

With:

 

[Gavin C]

Lol... it was on top of the washing machine while it was on. I would have failed photography class.

Just wanted to show the clarity vs. previous samples without Whirlfloc.


Without:

With:

That's quite a difference.

I use Whirlfloc/Irish moss in every batch. Anything Irish added to the beer has gotta be good right?

 

[Psylocide]

That's quite a difference.

I use Whirlfloc/Irish moss in every batch. Anything Irish added to the beer has gotta be good right?

I wouldn't go that far...

 

[MaxStout]

Whirlfloc is one of those secret weapons I always keep on hand. It's too cheap and easy to not use.

 

[doug293cz]

I double crushed for 60 minutes, and single crushed for 30. It didn't matter, they both came out the same. My rollers are set at 0.90mm thickness.

0.90mm (0.035") is a pretty coarse crush for BIAB. Most people getting decent efficiency with short mash BIAB are using significantly finer crushes. I set my mill gap at 0.40mm (0.016"), many BIAB'ers crush even finer than that. Try tightening you mill gap, and see what happens to your efficiency.

Brew on

 

[Psylocide]

Whirlfloc is one of those secret weapons I always keep on hand. It's too cheap and easy to not use.

Yeah... I should have started using it right away.

Even after initial fermentation, everything is clearing much faster. It should be listed as mandatory for no-chill brewers.

 

[MaxStout]

Yeah... I should have started using it right away.

Even after initial fermentation, everything is clearing much faster. It should be listed as mandatory for no-chill brewers.

I don't do no-chill, but it's nice to see that trub starting to drop to the bottom right after filling the fermenter.

Last brew, I decided to try throwing the hop pellets directly into the kettle, thinking my hops utilization might be a little better. Three ounces of Hallertau in a Vienna lager. Bad idea. I just racked to secondary, and it left about .75 gallons of trub. Back to using the hop spider.

 

[Gavin C]

Any chance you got a picture of the spruce tips. Would be interested to see what you used. Just the tip

 

[Psylocide]

 

[MaxStout]

Do you prepare them in some way before adding, or as-is?

I have three Black Hills spruce in my back yard. Might have to try that some time.

 

[Psylocide]

Do you prepare them in some way before adding, or as-is?

I have three Black Hills spruce in my back yard. Might have to try that some time.

No, I didn't. Just took the fresh growth and threw them in @ 15 mins left in the boil. Gleaned some info from here:

http://www.spruceontap.com/aboutus.sc

I went with 3 oz because it was 1 oz lower than their recommendations, I wanted it to be very subtle and mine smelled pretty potent.

I may have covered it up with all those hops, but we'll see.

 

[MaxStout]

It might add some "piney" aroma and flavor to enhance the hops. I'll be curious to hear how it turns out.

 

[Psylocide]

It might add some "piney" aroma and flavor to enhance the hops. I'll be curious to hear how it turns out.

That's the idea.

I'll definitely share my results here.

Also, on that website, they had this crazy gem. No thanks though, I'll not be trying this:

Alcoholic spruce beer was common in the colonial United States and eastern Canada, made from red or black spruce. An American recipe from 1796 (though not exactly beer) states:

Take four ounces of hops, let them boil half an hour in one gallon of water, strain the hop water then add sixteen gallons of warm water, two gallons of molasses, eight ounces of essence of spruce, dissolved in one quart of water, put it in a clean cask, then shake it well together, add half a pint of emptins (brewer’s yeast), then let it stand and work one week, if very warm weather less time will do, when it is drawn off to bottle, add one spoonful of molasses to every bottle.

 

[TheCADJockey]

That's the idea.

I'll definitely share my results here.

Also, on that website, they had this crazy gem. No thanks though, I'll not be trying this:

One spoon full of molasses to every bottle? Might as well just pull all your teeth out now.

 

[Psylocide]

One spoon full of molasses to every bottle? Might as well just pull all your teeth out now.

The only fermentable is 2 gal of Molasses, lol.

 

[RM-MN]

The only fermentable is 2 gal of Molasses, lol.

I think we tend to call that kind of brew "prison hooch".

 

[wilserbrewer]

The only fermentable is 2 gal of Molasses, lol.

Haha, 2 gal of molasses is actually quite a bit....guessing 24 lbs at 36 ppg would yield 18 gallons at OG 1.048 and it is likely highly fermentable....so what's that 5.5 % ?

If you had nothing else, that might be pretty darn good....it all relative

 

[Magnus314]

Are you sure they weren't making Rhum?

 

[Rhaop]

Walp... did another 30 min Mash, right around 75% efficiency this time around. I seem to hover right around there with my current method.

I used Whirlfloc for the first time ever... it was amazing. I wouldn't forego this addition if you are doing no-chill brewing, my post boil OG sample was crazy clear. Pitched yeast Sunday morning, had active fermentation by Sunday night and clearing by Wednesday.

Just the Tip APA

5.5 gal
1.055 OG
60ish IBU

10 lbs 2-Row
.5 lb Crystal 60
.5 lb Carapils

.5 oz Columbus FWH
.5 oz Columbus @ 15
.5 oz Australian Galaxy @ 15
3 oz Fresh Blue Spruce tips @ 15
Whirlfloc Tab @ 15
.5 oz Australian Galaxy F/O - Hopstand
1 oz Cascade F/O - Hopstand
1 oz Simcoe F/O - Hopstand
Rehydrated Notty

Mashed @ 154°, expecting 1.010 or so FG.




View attachment 282453

Thats a really nice looking sample, i noticed your mashing at 154 for an APA I used to mash my most common beers at 152 when i used a cooler, since switching to biab i feel like i've lost "body" reading the forums I can't gauge wether others have the same problem seems like opinions are everywhere, fwiw i haven't notice a significant drop in fg I usually hit 1.010-1.012 range am i just crazy or should i just try bumping up the temps, i also have been addressing mash ph as well

 

[Psylocide]

Thats a really nice looking sample, i noticed your mashing at 154 for an APA I used to mash my most common beers at 152 when i used a cooler, since switching to biab i feel like i've lost "body" reading the forums I can't gauge wether others have the same problem seems like opinions are everywhere, fwiw i haven't notice a significant drop in fg I usually hit 1.010-1.012 range am i just crazy or should i just try bumping up the temps, i also have been addressing mash ph as well

Thanks.

Yeah... I originally started mashing higher to address my higher-than-predicted attenuation using my system. I was consistently ending up with ~80% attenuation and wanted to get that down to ~75%.

But, a nice side effect has been a little more body, albeit very subtly so.

 

[Rhaop]

I'm also wondering if a shorter mash can help reduce tannin extraction in a less then perfect ph environment

 

[doug293cz]

I'm also wondering if a shorter mash can help reduce tannin extraction in a less then perfect ph environment

I think the finer grind needed to enable an efficient short mash might also increase the rate of tannin extraction, if the husks are shredded more than a coarser crush. Getting the pH under control will eliminate this as a concern.

You can also reduce tannin extraction in a non-optimal pH environment by not doing a mash out, and batch sparging with water at less than 160°F (or using a no sparge method.)

Brew on

 

[motobrewer]

Are you sure they weren't making Rhum?

rhum isn't made from molasses, it's made from pure sugar cane juice

 

[Rhaop]

I think the finer grind needed to enable an efficient short mash might also increase the rate of tannin extraction, if the husks are shredded more than a coarser crush. Getting the pH under control will eliminate this as a concern.



You can also reduce tannin extraction in a non-optimal pH environment by not doing a mash out, and batch sparging with water at less than 160°F (or using a no sparge method.)



Brew on

True, i have been addressing mash ph since switching to BiaB i was noticing a bite on the finish of my beers I determined to be astringency only thing i could pin it on was mash ph being too high on my paler beers, since starting to add acid malt i have found the beers to finish "cleaner"

Its all geusstimation right now assuming that my municipal water changes weekly until i can "acquire" a ph meter from work

 

[Magnus314]

Most Rum is made from Molasses because it's cheaper.

Guaro and Cashaca are made from cane juice though.

 

[motobrewer]

Rhum is not Rum.

all Rhum is made from cane juice

 

[Magnus314]

I was thinking short for Rhumbullion... but you're right, "Rhum" short for Rhum Agricole is it's own thing. I loves me some Cachaca, so I'll probably like that too.

Cool. Learn sumthin' new every day.

 

[SHvanBommel]

sub for spruce tits

 

[motobrewer]

I was thinking short for Rhumbullion... but you're right, "Rhum" short for Rhum Agricole is it's own thing. I loves me some Cachaca, so I'll probably like that too.

Cool. Learn sumthin' new every day.

i've liked every rhum I've been able to get my hands on.

Cachaca: love Leblon, indifferent to Pitu

 

[Magnus314]

I just finished a bottle of Lebron my cousin got me for my birthday.

Never had Pitu... maybe never will