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3-in-1 "Boil Kettle, Jacketed Chiller, Conical Fermenter" by Brewha

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I just don't know how you can put in a big late hop addition without clogging a 1.5" valve. I use hop bags and stainless steel tea infuser balls. Look up jumbo or large stainless tea infuser on Amazon. I have a couple of those. They have short chains on them so I use a length of stainless wire to lower them into the brew. They also work well for dry hopping.

I have these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FCMCMO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Since I'm posting on this thread again, I'll post my newest addition. My recent brew was an IPA and my mash colander drained very slowly. The perforated bottom was clogged. I looked for a slotted bottom that would fit over that and I think I may have found the perfect solution. I got this at Adventures in Homebrewing. It is a 2-piece design and fit right into the bottom of my medium mash colander. I plan to brew this weekend or early next week.

Did this false bottom help with the slow draining?

I did my second brew on the BIAC last weekend (8.5 gallons of imperial porter) and it was VERY slow. Luckily I noticed and adjusted the pump output to compensate so as not to go below the level of the heating element. Even so, it took close to an hour to drain after mashout and killed all of my time savings.

I suppose increasing the gap on my mill is another option. I've been milling with the same .035" gap that I've always used.
 
Yeah, it helped me. I think a lot of it is the grain bill and the crush. I think a nice stainless screen placed over the perforated bottom would be perfect. I used a really large grain bag once that also worked quite well but I don't think my efficiency was as good with the grain all compressed inside a bag.
 
Did this false bottom help with the slow draining?

I did my second brew on the BIAC last weekend (8.5 gallons of imperial porter) and it was VERY slow. Luckily I noticed and adjusted the pump output to compensate so as not to go below the level of the heating element. Even so, it took close to an hour to drain after mashout and killed all of my time savings.

I suppose increasing the gap on my mill is another option. I've been milling with the same .035" gap that I've always used.

I started with .035 gap as well and have eventually opened it up a bit over time with better results. Last batch I used a .050 gap and conditioned the grain and was able to recirc a bit faster and never had it stick. I thought mash efficiency would suffer with a coarser crush, but much to my surprise my efficiency went up 2 points. All I can figure is that I was able to turn over the wort more times and that might have increased my efficiency? Next time I might try a .055 and see what happens.
 
Thanks for the info. It looks like a courser crush is definitely the first thing to try.
 
All of you have been a great resource. My BIAC will hopefully be in the mail soon.

Congratulations. I assume they still ship via a freight carrier. Be sure you are home when it is delivered. I'm not sure what size you purchased, but the medium comes in two large wooden crates and you'll need to be home for the delivery.
 
If it's a residential delivery be sure to tell the freight company that when they call to schedule delivery. It was probably just this particular driver, but after driving from LA to San Diego, he told me he didn't have a dolly to get the crates from the truck to my garage because he thought it was a business delivery. Luckily I had one otherwise he would've been SOL.
 
All of you have been a great resource. My BIAC will hopefully be in the mail soon.

I spoke with Nathan before mine was delivered and asked to pick it up at the trucker's loading dock. Got a discount for doing that and it was more convenient for me instead of waiting around for the truck to come. You might consider it if you have a van or pick up available to you. I did this for a medium BIAC which came in two crates.
 
Just finished kegging my 10th batch and used the 1/2" silicone hose as cudapak suggested for kegging. Used the chugger pump with the short larger diameter hose provided and connected the sanitized silicone hose with a tri-clamp to the chugger. Free end of the sanitized silicone run to the bottom of the keg. It took me less time to fill both kegs than what it took previously to fill less than half a keg. Talk about cutting down on the time needed for kegging! :mug: I'm sure my keg racking hose will be collecting dust now.
 
Just finished kegging my 10th batch and used the 1/2" silicone hose as cudapak suggested for kegging. Used the chugger pump with the short larger diameter hose provided and connected the sanitized silicone hose with a tri-clamp to the chugger. Free end of the sanitized silicone run to the bottom of the keg. It took me less time to fill both kegs than what it took previously to fill less than half a keg. Talk about cutting down on the time needed for kegging! :mug: I'm sure my keg racking hose will be collecting dust now.

Yeah, it's the only way to fly. I didn't even finish my first transfer before I went to the 1/2" hose. I haven't used the racking hose since.
 
Right now just opening the garage door.

But moving in about 6 weeks and plan to install a big stainless mixing bowl upside down with a hole cutout and tubing routed to a fan to the outside.
 
I need to sit down and take time to read this whole thread, but I have to admit I am fascinated by their upcoming BIAC microbrewery systems. Seems like a fascinating way to set-up a semi-autonomous system for a nano-brewery.
 
JB_Brewing2, that is really cool what you've done with the ventilation. Our basement is all finished so I brew in the garage. I just open a door and one of the windows get nice cross-ventilation.
 
I need to sit down and take time to read this whole thread, but I have to admit I am fascinated by their upcoming BIAC microbrewery systems. Seems like a fascinating way to set-up a semi-autonomous system for a nano-brewery.

I agree. He has taken the nano systems up a few notches. They can be pressurized and the mash colander even has wedge wire false bottoms now. I hope he uses the Chugger MAX for these. I got pricing from him a couple of months ago and it was reasonable. But it did not include the gantry you see on his website.
 
JB that looks great, where did you get your bowl and which fan did you purchase?


I agree. He has taken the nano systems up a few notches. They can be pressurized and the mash colander even has wedge wire false bottoms now. I hope he uses the Chugger MAX for these. I got pricing from him a couple of months ago and it was reasonable. But it did not include the gantry you see on his website.

I bought the small 4-in-1, I'm really excited to see this thing.
 
JB that looks great, where did you get your bowl and which fan did you purchase?




I bought the small 4-in-1, I'm really excited to see this thing.

I purchased the bowl here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONCORD-Sta...p-Bowl-4-50-QT-/131202736244?var=430448091560

The fan I purchased can be found at this link (http://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Powerfans-6-In-line-Fan/dp/B000RKOOGE). I shopped around and prices varied somewhat.

You're gonna like your BIAC. Easiest most consistent brewing for me.
 
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JB_Brewing2, that is really cool what you've done with the ventilation. Our basement is all finished so I brew in the garage. I just open a door and one of the windows get nice cross-ventilation.

Ohhh to have your climate in January and February :) I'll be opening windows and doors a bit later in the year probably. :mug:
 
Just finished kegging my 10th batch and used the 1/2" silicone hose as cudapak suggested for kegging. Used the chugger pump with the short larger diameter hose provided and connected the sanitized silicone hose with a tri-clamp to the chugger. Free end of the sanitized silicone run to the bottom of the keg. It took me less time to fill both kegs than what it took previously to fill less than half a keg. Talk about cutting down on the time needed for kegging! :mug: I'm sure my keg racking hose will be collecting dust now.

I kinda feel the opposite way. I've been using the 1/2" hose for transfers until yesterday when I finally decided to give the racking hose a shot. I think that unless I've got some reason to worry about clogging I'm going to stick with the racking hose from now on. It definitely took a little longer but it was really easy and I like being able to transfer from closed vessel to closed vessel. I just connect my CO2 tank to a top port, set the gas to 3PSI, and let it go.

As an aside, I tried my Mark's Keg washer on the BIAC for the first time and it worked pretty well. It's a little tricky getting it underneath because it's a tight fit between the wheels, and you have to drop the spray pipe down from inside the BIAC, but it did an admirable job with no modification. I'll probably end up making a little longer spray pipe and also a nozzle cap with a better spray pattern. Should make clean-up even easier.

IMG_20160306_213611252.jpg
 
Right on OneManBrewery....I am just a week behind you eagerly awaiting my Medium BIAC.

I am hoping that the experienced on this forum can answer a few basic questions I have.

1. To sparge or not to sparge....Does anybody heat water in the jacket to sparge, or is the consensus to just add more grain and let the MT drain?

2. Does anybody use the chiller to cold crash to 40F ( the coldest setting) before transferring to the keg? And if you use glycol in the jacket do you use PBW to clean if using the jacket for sparge water on the next brew?

3. Are the settings in Beersmith for the BIAC good, or are there tweaks that need to be made? Suggestions appreciated.

4. I've been doing 5 gallon batches with my gravity system. Is the Beersmith program accurate when scaling to a 10 gallon batch?

5. Any advice for the initial setup besides what is on the Brewha website?

Thanks....Cheers
 
Congrats OneManBrewery. My medium biac was supposed to be delivered today but the trucking company had problems so now I have to wait until next week [emoji35]
 
See below.

Right on OneManBrewery....I am just a week behind you eagerly awaiting my Medium BIAC.

I am hoping that the experienced on this forum can answer a few basic questions I have.

1. To sparge or not to sparge....Does anybody heat water in the jacket to sparge, or is the consensus to just add more grain and let the MT drain? I don't normally sparge with this system. But when I do, I use an upright 10-gal beverage cooler that used to be a mash tun. I heat it with an electric element and a 110v controller. I then pump in the sparge water. I never even considered using the jacket to heat sparge water. The jacket only holds 2-gal of water.

2. Does anybody use the chiller to cold crash to 40F ( the coldest setting) before transferring to the keg? And if you use glycol in the jacket do you use PBW to clean if using the jacket for sparge water on the next brew? I bought my glycol system from Rapids Wholesale before Nathan offered a glycol chiller. So mine is different. I always crash cool for a 3-5 days in the BIAC to clear the beer as much as possible. Then I rack into a keg and cool more. I brew in my garage and in summer, I don't know if I could crash mine to 40 and I have a 1/3 HP unit with an 8-gal reservoir + 2 gal in the jacket.

3. Are the settings in Beersmith for the BIAC good, or are there tweaks that need to be made? Suggestions appreciated. You'll need to tweak it from my experience.

4. I've been doing 5 gallon batches with my gravity system. Is the Beersmith program accurate when scaling to a 10 gallon batch? IDK

5. Any advice for the initial setup besides what is on the Brewha website? I would buy two butterfly valves for the bottom and the racking port. Trub gets really thick. Always dump the sediment from the bottom valve before you connect your hoses and your pump. If you don't you'll wind up with a BIG clog. Also, if you brew 5-gal batches, keep your recirculation rate very low or you'll run the element dry and kill it. Ask me how I know.

Thanks....Cheers
 
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