3-in-1 "Boil Kettle, Jacketed Chiller, Conical Fermenter" by Brewha

[limulus]

For all you medium owners out there, what is the smallest volume you have boiled safely w/o exposing the element? I just bought 3 all grain kits from MW that were on sale last month and I completely forgot they were 5-gal kits. I can always order another of each kit and make 10gal batches.

 

[limulus]

It may be a small thing to most people with these systems, but my least favorite thing is the fact that it is difficult (for me) to measure the volume of water I have in the system. The included stainless measuring device was an afterthought and was not even included with the original systems. I don't care that it is in liters. Although including gallons would be nice. I would prefer either a sight glass, a flow gauge or clear, easy to read markings on the inside of the vessel.

When brewing at night, in my garage (last night for example), it is nearly impossible to read the hanging stainless gauge that came with mine. I have been placing a piece of blue painters tape at the appropriate mark now so I have a chance of seeing the water level.

 

[cuda6pak]

I either shine a flashlight at it or just lift it up out of the pot and see where the line is. It doesn't transfer heat to the lip of the handle at all so no worry of burning when lifting it out. My only gripe is that it's in liters so I'm always having to convert.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

It may be a small thing to most people with these systems, but my least favorite thing is the fact that it is difficult (for me) to measure the volume of water I have in the system. The included stainless measuring device was an afterthought and was not even included with the original systems. I don't care that it is in liters. Although including gallons would be nice. I would prefer either a sight glass, a flow gauge or clear, easy to read markings on the inside of the vessel.

When brewing at night, in my garage (last night for example), it is nearly impossible to read the hanging stainless gauge that came with mine. I have been placing a piece of blue painters tape at the appropriate mark now so I have a chance of seeing the water level.

I'm in agreement with it being difficult to read. Have been contemplating making permanent markings on the inside using the technique in this thread:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=463099

Just have to gather the courage to do so.

 

[limulus]

Yeah, I read that same thread. I don't know if I have the nerve! I think there are sight glasses that can be installed before a valve. I just need to clear the angle of the cone.

 

[xico]

I'm a step away from getting a medium system myself but every time I'm about to commit something comes up that makes me delay. The price tag on electric I knew would be a leap up from gas but wow, it's thousands more! The benefits outweigh the financial hit but I'm trying to find means of sourcing alternative equipment from Brewha so I can afford the hardware, which I love.

I agree with the comments in this thread about tying up the brew equipment in fermentation, but I simply plan on filling carboys and using the conical after my other vessels are occupied.

The power box is so damn expensive, 550 to control the output of the element and add an ETC to that and I'm at 630. I can't seem to find any controllers that utilize a digital rotary encoder along with an ETC. Anyone have any ideas?

Does anyone know if I should be investing in a GFCI breaker too? My fiance is a brewer too. If it were just me, I'd go without it but I've no room for recklessness when it comes to her well-being. I thought I'd install an inline GFI but it seems they don't work with 3 prong dryer outlets, which is all I got. An electrician quoted me at a ridiculous 914 dollars to add a 30a breaker to my half-used box. Any solutions?

 

[limulus]

I believe Jimmy82, who is one of the original owners/posters in this thread uses his own controls. Again, I think he does. Also, if you watch some of the Brewha videos on youtube, the guy with the Large also has his own controller visible around 7:40 on this video. As far as in-line GFCI, it is something I would never go without and they are not cheap.

This is the one I and others before and probably after me bought:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZY2Y4C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvAOGJYTYZI[/ame].

 

[jeffcosgrove]

I haven't brewed any 5 gal batches on my medium, but I measured it when I first got it and the element is covered by about 1/4 - 1/2 inch right at 5 gals. With the expansion from heat and the extra you need to account for trub/fermenter losses I don't think it is an issue to make a 5 gal batch.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

I'm a step away from getting a medium system myself but every time I'm about to commit something comes up that makes me delay. The price tag on electric I knew would be a leap up from gas but wow, it's thousands more! The benefits outweigh the financial hit but I'm trying to find means of sourcing alternative equipment from Brewha so I can afford the hardware, which I love.

I agree with the comments in this thread about tying up the brew equipment in fermentation, but I simply plan on filling carboys and using the conical after my other vessels are occupied.

The power box is so damn expensive, 550 to control the output of the element and add an ETC to that and I'm at 630. I can't seem to find any controllers that utilize a digital rotary encoder along with an ETC. Anyone have any ideas?

Does anyone know if I should be investing in a GFCI breaker too? My fiance is a brewer too. If it were just me, I'd go without it but I've no room for recklessness when it comes to her well-being. I thought I'd install an inline GFI but it seems they don't work with 3 prong dryer outlets, which is all I got. An electrician quoted me at a ridiculous 914 dollars to add a 30a breaker to my half-used box. Any solutions?

I would highly recommend GFCI protection for both of you. My circuit uses a 30 amp GFCI breaker in the main box in my shop. I ran the wire and installed the conduit and outlet myself. Probably cost around $300 total to do so (GFCI breaker, 100' of 10/3, 10' of conduit, dryer outlet, misc. screws and straps). Do not skimp on safety. If you don't feel comfortable wiring it yourself, try talking to a couple other electricians if possible. I don't know your specific situation (wire length, construction type, etc.) but the quote from the electrician does seem like a lot.

If you can swing it buy the complete package with accessories including the digital control box. I really like having everything from the same company in the off chance you have an issue with something.

 

[brew-in]

I'm a step away from getting a medium system myself but every time I'm about to commit something comes up that makes me delay. The price tag on electric I knew would be a leap up from gas but wow, it's thousands more! The benefits outweigh the financial hit but I'm trying to find means of sourcing alternative equipment from Brewha so I can afford the hardware, which I love.

I agree with the comments in this thread about tying up the brew equipment in fermentation, but I simply plan on filling carboys and using the conical after my other vessels are occupied.

The power box is so damn expensive, 550 to control the output of the element and add an ETC to that and I'm at 630. I can't seem to find any controllers that utilize a digital rotary encoder along with an ETC. Anyone have any ideas?

Does anyone know if I should be investing in a GFCI breaker too? My fiance is a brewer too. If it were just me, I'd go without it but I've no room for recklessness when it comes to her well-being. I thought I'd install an inline GFI but it seems they don't work with 3 prong dryer outlets, which is all I got. An electrician quoted me at a ridiculous 914 dollars to add a 30a breaker to my half-used box. Any solutions?

Have you taken a look at Brausupply? They are a bit cheaper than Brewha on BIAC systems....

 

[brew-in]

I would highly recommend GFCI protection for both of you. My circuit uses a 30 amp GFCI breaker in the main box in my shop. I ran the wire and installed the conduit and outlet myself. Probably cost around $300 total to do so (GFCI breaker, 100' of 10/3, 10' of conduit, dryer outlet, misc. screws and straps). Do not skimp on safety. If you don't feel comfortable wiring it yourself, try talking to a couple other electricians if possible. I don't know your specific situation (wire length, construction type, etc.) but the quote from the electrician does seem like a lot.

If you can swing it buy the complete package with accessories including the digital control box. I really like having everything from the same company in the off chance you have an issue with something.

I had a reputable Electrical Contractor install a 240V 30A GFCI protected circuit, plus 5 extra 120 Volt 20 Amp circuits in my garage and the bill was $540...I would shop around, I am sure you can get it installed by a certified electrician cheaper than $900.

As far as DIY, even if you know what you are doing, I dont recommend it....in most jurisdictions doing your own electrical work (unless you are licensed) is illegal and must be disclosed when you go to sell the house. The liability is not worth a few hundred bucks...

Also for cost check out Brau Supply BIACs...you can even get it with the Brew Boss automated controller....

 

[JB_Brewing2]

As far as DIY, even if you know what you are doing, I dont recommend it....in most jurisdictions doing your own electrical work (unless you are licensed) is illegal and must be disclosed when you go to sell the house. The liability is not worth a few hundred bucks...

Hey brew-in, I respectfully disagree. Not sure about your municipality, but "if you know what you are doing", pull a permit, do the work, have it inspected, and you can save dollars. It's not the DIY that insurance will deny, but the lack of permit and inspection. My post underlined safety and if you're not comfortable with doing electrical, find another electrician. If you have to hire an electrician, try to get three bids for comparative purposes.

 

[xico]

I would highly recommend GFCI protection for both of you. My circuit uses a 30 amp GFCI breaker in the main box in my shop. I ran the wire and installed the conduit and outlet myself. Probably cost around $300 total to do so (GFCI breaker, 100' of 10/3, 10' of conduit, dryer outlet, misc. screws and straps). Do not skimp on safety. If you don't feel comfortable wiring it yourself, try talking to a couple other electricians if possible. I don't know your specific situation (wire length, construction type, etc.) but the quote from the electrician does seem like a lot.

If you can swing it buy the complete package with accessories including the digital control box. I really like having everything from the same company in the off chance you have an issue with something.

Thanks all for the input, I'm looking at the Brau system as well and comparing prices. I hear you loud and clear, and safety will be budgeted for. So what I'm reading is that there is no way to set up a gfi from a 10-30p dryer outlet, is this correct? One controller seller said I could connect it between controller and element but I got a sleazy salesperson feeling from our conversation and the research I've done hasn't been able to confirm or debunk that suggestion. I have a second electrician coming tomorrow to give me a quote but I want to look at in-line options too because we are renting and may be denied by the landowners should we ask to have any work done.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

Thanks all for the input, I'm looking at the Brau system as well and comparing prices. I hear you loud and clear, and safety will be budgeted for. So what I'm reading is that there is no way to set up a gfi from a 10-30p dryer outlet, is this correct? One controller seller said I could connect it between controller and element but I got a sleazy salesperson feeling from our conversation and the research I've done hasn't been able to confirm or debunk that suggestion. I have a second electrician coming tomorrow to give me a quote but I want to look at in-line options too because we are renting and may be denied by the landowners should we ask to have any work done.

My Brewha medium BIAC is connected to a 30 amp "dryer" outlet with the GFCI protection in the breaker box. Ask your electrician (and your landlord) if you can replace the 30amp non-GFCI breaker with a 30 amp GFCI breaker to give you the protection you need for the system you choose. This may be more acceptable and less costly than rewiring for an inline GFCI. In the spirit of full disclosure, I am not an electrician. So my advice on electrical matters is worth what you paid for it. I hope this helps.

 

[jeffmeh]

You can also do the 3 in, 4 out method with a GFCI spa panel to obtain GFCI protection. Routine disclaimers.....

 

[limulus]

Does anyone know where I can get a good all stainless element like the one that came with our units? I know a lot of them have steel flanges that will rust. The $40 price from Nathan is fine, but the shipping from BC is almost as much as the element. Why am I looking for an element you may wonder...??? Well "Mr Multi-Tasker", aka ME, was not paying attention to brewing and the element ran dry. So now the resident genius needs a new element. Maybe I can get a part number off mine. But I'll need to drain the thing first and I'm pretty annoyed right now. I want to be in a better state of mind before I go out and drain the thing to disassemble.

 

[JB_Brewing2]

Does anyone know where I can get a good all stainless element like the one that came with our units? I know a lot of them have steel flanges that will rust. The $40 price from Nathan is fine, but the shipping from BC is almost as much as the element. Why am I looking for an element you may wonder...??? Well "Mr Multi-Tasker", aka ME, was not paying attention to brewing and the element ran dry. So now the resident genius needs a new element. Maybe I can get a part number off mine. But I'll need to drain the thing first and I'm pretty annoyed right now. I want to be in a better state of mind before I go out and drain the thing to disassemble.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I worry about doing that too. I've had good luck with BrewHardware and they have an all SS element for $37 plus shipping: http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

Kal's Electric Brewery site also carries them.

 

[brew-in]

Does anyone know where I can get a good all stainless element like the one that came with our units? I know a lot of them have steel flanges that will rust. The $40 price from Nathan is fine, but the shipping from BC is almost as much as the element. Why am I looking for an element you may wonder...??? Well "Mr Multi-Tasker", aka ME, was not paying attention to brewing and the element ran dry. So now the resident genius needs a new element. Maybe I can get a part number off mine. But I'll need to drain the thing first and I'm pretty annoyed right now. I want to be in a better state of mind before I go out and drain the thing to disassemble.

These are the ones you want:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/stainless-steel-heating-elements

 

[limulus]

Thanks guys. I was brewing a 5gal batch and I think the element ran dry when I was recirculating. There was a little over 8gal of water and that combined with what the grain absorbed was not enough water. From now on, I'll do no less than 8gal batches. I've done that already and had no trouble.

 

[xico]

Does anyone know where I can get a good all stainless element like the one that came with our units? I know a lot of them have steel flanges that will rust. The $40 price from Nathan is fine, but the shipping from BC is almost as much as the element. Why am I looking for an element you may wonder...??? Well "Mr Multi-Tasker", aka ME, was not paying attention to brewing and the element ran dry. So now the resident genius needs a new element. Maybe I can get a part number off mine. But I'll need to drain the thing first and I'm pretty annoyed right now. I want to be in a better state of mind before I go out and drain the thing to disassemble.

I also keep an eye on brew boss for elements.

http://www.brew-boss.com/category-s/147.htm

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

Does anyone know where I can get a good all stainless element like the one that came with our units? I know a lot of them have steel flanges that will rust. The $40 price from Nathan is fine, but the shipping from BC is almost as much as the element. Why am I looking for an element you may wonder...??? Well "Mr Multi-Tasker", aka ME, was not paying attention to brewing and the element ran dry. So now the resident genius needs a new element. Maybe I can get a part number off mine. But I'll need to drain the thing first and I'm pretty annoyed right now. I want to be in a better state of mind before I go out and drain the thing to disassemble.

Just to throw another in, I use these with my 3-1... http://www.ebrewsupply.com/stainless-elements.html

I've been using the straight one at 5500W and haven't had any scorching issues to date, but I'm interested to hear if anyone has experience with a ripple element in a 3-1?

 

[b1v1r]

Hmm, I'm wondering if I could fabricate a long stainless tube with a bend at the end that could be inserted from the top...

Just found this today. They make custom lengths. I wonder if they would make one straight on the TC side so you could insert it in one of the top ports. Would be perfect.



http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-1.5-Inch-Custom-Whirlpool-Arm.html

I ended up building a whirlpool arm out of an old 1/2" stainless racking cane and a few triclamp parts from brewhardware.com

This mounts to a top port and allows pumping from bottom port through the tube. The compression fitting in the middle is just snug so it can be moved up and down and rotated. Waiting on the current batch to finish before I can try it and I'll post a video.

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[limulus]

I knew it could be done. Thanks for posting.

 

[limulus]

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I worry about doing that too. I've had good luck with BrewHardware and they have an all SS element for $37 plus shipping: http://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element5500.htm

Kal's Electric Brewery site also carries them.

I decided to go with brewhardware. I've bought from him before and he is in Jersey, so I can get it quicker. His price is also a few bucks less and he specifically describes the all stainless construction. I could not figure out where brew-boss is located...at least on this ipad. Also, in all fairness to Nathan, he cut me a break on shipping, but I when I look at Jersey vs BC, Jersey wins the distance battle for me.

 

[xico]

Just got access to the garage at the house I'm renting. The landlord said they had a hot tub at one point and that I could use their panel for my medium biac and power box. I checked out the breaker box and indeed I have a 40 amp gfci breaker. Great news but now I am wondering if the power controller will be appropriate as it's rated to 30 amp.

From what I understand about gfci (nominal at best) it will only be safe if the devices downstream match the breaker itself. A higher amperage would determine the threshold before it trips, which means a horrible accident may not be detected as one. Is this true? What can I do to rectify this?

Also, I was going to wire outdoor 10 awg 4 line cable along the outside of the house and up into the kitchen window. The line will be 75 feet, is this length going to cause resistance in the connection that I should be concerned about? Should I be wiring 8 gauge to account for this?

 

[limulus]

OK Lads, my new element arrived today from brewhardware (aka BobbyM). One thing was immediately obvious: It is about 2" shorter than the Brewha element. It is 5500 LWD I think the extra length of the Breha element make it an ultra low watt density if that is a real term. One thing I can do with the shorter element is brew smaller batches. Hopefully it does not scorch and I hope the darn thing fits.

 

[xico]

OK Lads, my new element arrived today from brewhardware (aka BobbyM). One thing was immediately obvious: It is about 2" shorter than the Brewha element. It is 5500 LWD I think the extra length of the Breha element make it an ultra low watt density if that is a real term. One thing I can do with the shorter element is brew smaller batches. Hopefully it does not scorch and I hope the darn thing fits.

I'd be curious to know how it comes together. is there a nut to provide a ground? I haven't opened up an element from tri-clover housing before.

 

[brianpedersen]

The elements themselves usually haven't got a ground nut, the ones I have seen only have a neutral and one or more phases, depending on the element.

If you are using a stainless tri-clover housing, like most are (including the one provided with the BIAC), there will be a nut in the housing where you attach the ground wire.

The housing I am currently using is plastic, so I have to route a separate ground wire to my BIAC.

 

[limulus]

I'd be curious to know how it comes together. is there a nut to provide a ground? I haven't opened up an element from tri-clover housing before.

I installed the new element this afternoon and filled it with water. It is heating just like normal. This element is 1.5-2" shorter but still 5500 watts. It is also the same manufacturer. I forgot to measure the water level so I'll have to measure the minimum it takes to cover the shorter element. It should be maybe 2 gallons less to cover the element. I know that these elements can be carefully bent so that is another way to get lower volumes in the medium.

 

[trimixdiver1]

I ended up building a whirlpool arm out of an old 1/2" stainless racking cane and a few triclamp parts from brewhardware.com

This mounts to a top port and allows pumping from bottom port through the tube. The compression fitting in the middle is just snug so it can be moved up and down and rotated. Waiting on the current batch to finish before I can try it and I'll post a video.

View attachment 310073View attachment 310074View attachment 310075View attachment 310076View attachment 310077

Why would you whirlpool in a conical? It's a center drain with sloped sides, kinda defeats the purpose.