3 batches from AHS Abt 12?

[Sheldon]

I will be brewing 5 gal (AG) AHS's Abt 12 tomorrow. The expected OG is 1.095 and final ABV around 8.5%.

Could I do a second (partigyle) and possibly a third running from this bactch, mabye adding some more base or specialty grains to the 2nd or 3rd mash? I was thinking of adding some orange peel and coriander to a second and maybe do the same with the third, but use different hops for these two.

All runnings would be 5 gal batches, or at least that is what I am planning. Really need advice. I am very dangerous when I have all the tools (grains and stuff) and don't know how they really work. But I do makes me some good beer

Thanks,

Sheldon

 

[Sheldon]

bump, looking for some input and advice.

 

[MalFet]

Using the ingredients from a 1.095 beer for three 5 gallon batches would certainly be possible, but you'd end up with three relatively thin beers. Assuming your first, second, and third runnings are all of equal volume, I'd think that you would get about a 1.045 beer after dilution on your first five gallons, 1.030 on your second, and 1.015 or so on your third. You could obviously beef that up, but you'd be talking about adding a lot of grain. What is your goal? If you're looking to try out partigyle, why not use a more common recipe pairing? If you're looking to make a lighter beer, I'd probably recommend using something other than the Abt 12. In my experience, abbey ales don't dilute terribly well.

 

[Sheldon]

I am brewing the Abt 12 and wanted to capitalize on the grain bill I am using. So would just doing a normal partigyle, adding some specialty grain to get a regular sized (ABV) Belgian Pale Ale be more practical?

 

[MalFet]

I am brewing the Abt 12 and wanted to capitalize on the grain bill I am using. So would just doing a normal partigyle, adding some specialty grain to get a regular sized (ABV) Belgian Pale Ale be more practical?

Right, but if you do a partigyle, your first runnings won't net you 5 gallons of Abt 12. It's not like you get more sugars or efficiency by doing a partigyle. I can imagine doing a partigyle that would produce, say, a belgian golden strong and a BPA, but you still need to use as much grain as you would if you had brewed them separately. You might already completely understand this, but if that's the case I don't understand what you mean by "capitalize on the grain bill I am using". What are you hoping to obtain by doing a partigyle different from doing two separate brews?

More importantly, perhaps, you can't really add grains halfway into a partigyle. You'd need to remash.

 

[Sheldon]

that is where I am confused. I thought some of the readings I've seen indicated that you could use the same grain bill and just keep sparging until ur gravity reached 1.010. So you are saying u can't do that. I definately want to do a full sparge 6+ gal for full boil, and was hoping to keep sparging for another batch and add some malto and maybe some Crystal 20L for extra body in the second batch.

 

[MalFet]

that is where I am confused. I thought some of the readings I've seen indicated that you could use the same grain bill and just keep sparging until ur gravity reached 1.010. So you are saying u can't do that. I definately want to do a full sparge 6+ gal for full boil, and was hoping to keep sparging for another batch and add some malto and maybe some Crystal 20L for extra body in the second batch.

Nah, I think you are misunderstanding partigyle. You don't get more sugars out of it. When they talk about first runnings, they're not talking about "the first six gallons". They're talking about the first liquid that comes out of your lauter tun. If you do a partigyle on a batch that is designed for 6 gallons of 1.060 beer, you'll likely end up with 3 gallons that are 1.085 and three gallons that are 1.035. This is an old technique that a lot of British brew houses used to use to make, say, a barley wine and a mild. It can be fun, but you're not going to get more out of it.

 

[nm999]

Use one of the spread sheets available to figure out how much base malt to use to get your first runnings where you want them and steep the specialty grains separately for the first batch. Cap the mash with the specialty grains for your second runnings, sparge and steep for 20 min or so. Or if you want to do three batches just steep the first and second batches specialty grains separately and cap the mash with the third batches specialty grains. When you steep the specialty grains separately it opens up your options as to what your second and third beers can be.

I just did an Arrogant Bastard-ish beer and a blond ale as a partigyle and my next one will be a Belgian dark strong and a pilsner.

 

[nm999]

Here is a table from Brewing Techniques. http://www.brewingtechniques.com/library/backissues/issue2.2/moshertable.html
The 1/2 1/2 column would be for the same size batches such as 5 gal first 5 gal second. The 1/3 2/3 would be for a 5 gal first 10 gal second. Or if you want 3 batches use the 1/3 2/3 table to calculate your first batch then take the 2/3 gravity and plug it in to the 1/2 1/2 column.

 

[Sheldon]

thanks for clarifying things. I think I will wait until the weather gets warmer to do a real partigyle. For now, I think I will just go ahead and brew the Abt 12 per directions. I just bought a Barley Crusher and a load of bulk grains and am anxious to get outside tomorrow and brew.

 

[motobrewer]

there's a byo article about this

i just did a RIS partigyle that used 26lb of grain. 1st + part of 2nd runnings got 5 gallons 1.107, the rest of the 2nd runnings + 3rd got me 5 gallons of 1.040

the math isn't terribly hard. you have 5 gallons of 1.085 beer. 5*85 = 425 points. you can divide that up any way you want, say:

2.5 gallons of 1.100 = 250 points, 425 - 250 = 175
then with that 175 points you could have 5 gallons of 1.035 beer (175/5 = 35), 4 gal of 1.043 (175/4 = 43), etc.

you could always add malt after draining the 1st runnings, but then you'd have to re-mash. your best bet if you wanted more out of the 2nd beer would be to just add extract.