2P-Twent-E: the new Brouwerij Boerderij Kabouter

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I'm in awe, you have an amazing design, and the Simple Brewery is sweeet! Because of you I have decided in the end to go all electric, with a HERMS system, I hope you think that replication is a form of flattery.

PROST to you sir! and Subscribed!

Definitely flattered! I hope tos ee a bunch of similar systems some day!!!

Nice!

I'm probably going to copy your design exactly. So please post a parts list when you're finished!

Okay, not exactly. I'll probably cut the RIMS and one pump.

My only question is about the lid on the boil kettle. With the chiller on there, it looks like you will have to keep the lid on. How are you going to get around sanitizing your chiller coil and keeping the lid off?

B

You should take a look at the Simple Brewery. It is exactly what you are describing. 2-tier HERMS with one pump.

The chiller will be sanitized with starsan in a spray bottle. This system chills so quickly with the ice water in the MLT that DMS is not an issue. With the Simple Brewery, we were below 140º in about 2-3 minutes.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Anyone who wants a parts list can just PM me your email address and I wills end you the build sheet.

 

[thorongil]

Where did you find the rubberized kegs?

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

From an undisclosed legal source otherwise known as someplace that normally sells beer.

 

[thorongil]

LOL! Good answer. I really like the idea of the rubber as insulation for an e-rig...

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

The beginning of the thread is now updated with some work on the control box. Slowly finding a bit of time to work on my projects.

 

[bendavanza]

That's some pretty clean wiring, nothing like my rat's nest on my rims toolbox. I may have to rewire mine one day but for now it works. Glad to see you are using a socket for the power input.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

That's some pretty clean wiring, nothing like my rat's nest on my rims toolbox. I may have to rewire mine one day but for now it works. Glad to see you are using a socket for the power input.

I am not sure I am $17 glad, but it does look nice.

 

[The Pol]

I am not sure I am $17 glad, but it does look nice.

$17 is cheap, what amp is that socket?

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

20 amp. 120 VAC.

McMaster #8036K2


In the grand scheme it isn't much, but compared to $4 for a regular outlet it is a lot. Those small upgrades add up quick as I am sure you know.

 

[The Pol]

20 amp. 120 VAC.

McMaster #8036K2


In the grand scheme it isn't much, but compared to $4 for a regular outlet it is a lot. Those small upgrades add up quick as I am sure you know.

Kettles are expensive, but the small details kill you

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Yep. A full build only costs about $400-500 if you leave out all the details. $20 on wire here, wire stripper there, oops, I need some screws, etc. The little things are the hidden cost.

Also, it is impossible to not buy some new tools. I just bought a new step bit that goes up to 1.25 inches. It looked so nice

 

[The Pol]

Yep. A full build only costs about $400-500 if you leave out all the details. $20 on wire here, wire stripper there, oops, I need some screws, etc. The little things are the hidden cost.

Also, it is impossible to not buy some new tools. I just bought a new step bit that goes up to 1.25 inches. It looked so nice

Yah, soldering irons, punches, stubby screwdrivers, teflon tape, 70 feet of wire, wood screws, epoxies ahhhh THIS IS WHY I have a full parts list with everthing that it took to build this thing...

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

THIS IS WHY I have a full parts list with everything that it took to build this thing...

Yep. So far so good. I didn't buy enough wire though. Can't win 'em all.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Whoo hoo. I just got the rest of the wire I need. I should make some progress tonight!

:EDIT: I have actually been finding project time this week! Crazy I know. Anyway, the PID and all switches are wired. I need to do some soldering tonight and wire up the remaining two outlets and the box is done. So far I am pretty happy with my wiring. It should look pretty good.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

The box is all done except the fan! I am still figuring out the best way to install the fan.

If anyone has any idea about how I should do it to be as-close-to-code as possible let me know. Right now I am thinking of installing "splash shield" above the fan inlet and outlet ports so any falling or splashed water wouldn't enter the fan...

I would love some suggestions.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

The box is done!!! (except the fan....)

I updated the initial posts with more install info and pics. I also posted about my power cords and sensor.

Prost!

 

[yellowcolumbia]

What is your plan for sanitizing the immersion coil for cooling? With the way the coil is attached to the lid, either you will be boiling for the last few minutes with the lid on, or will have to use some chemicals. Or do you believe that adding the lid (and coil) at flameout will be sufficient to sanitize the coil?

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I will sanitize the coil with starsan. You could also dip the coil int he pot without covering it with the lid. Star San in a spray bottle is just really easy.

 

[evanmars]

You really should consider ditching the soldered ground wires to the lid and use ring terminals and a bolt.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

You really should consider ditching the soldered ground wires to the lid and use ring terminals and a bolt.

Why?567890

 

[Brewmoor]

You really should consider ditching the soldered ground wires to the lid and use ring terminals and a bolt.

I wondered about that too when I saw the pic. I am sure it will work just fine like that but it seems like it would be a durability issue. It may not stay on there forever.

I would at least consider another option if you plan on getting a UL listing. I think I remember a thread where you were asking about that.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

So the issue is the solder joint breaking away? Hmmm.... I did the solder because I figured it would be a better connection. Oh well.

Next time

It sounds like UL listing is crazy expensive and not worth my time. I may still be interested in it at some point. I am interested in being as close to code and safety regulations as possible. I love learning about this stuff!!!

 

[wyzazz]

Unless you're beating the crap outta that toolbox I think it'll stay just fine. That is, as long as the area has been properly prepped!

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

Well, I scraped down to bare metal. Then I tinned the area with solder, fluxed the crap out of it, and soldered the wires down. I think the connection is good for a solder connection.

I am surprised a screw or bolt is a better option, I would have thought a screw was more likely to come loose. Plus, this way nothing is sticking through the box.

 

[Brewmoor]

Well, I scraped down to bare metal. Then I tinned the area with solder, fluxed the crap out of it, and soldered the wires down. I think the connection is good for a solder connection.

I am surprised a screw or bolt is a better option, I would have thought a screw was more likely to come loose. Plus, this way nothing is sticking through the box.

Aesthetically it is better but with a bolt you can put a lock washer on it and it should never come loose.

Sounds like you prepped it right. I am sure you will not have any problems. It should be fine.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

But for future builds and reference, it is better to ground via a bolt with a lock washer.

 

[wyzazz]

But for future builds and reference, it is better to ground via a bolt with a lock washer.

FWIW I think the solder joint is fine, and if it comes loose you could always replace it with a bolt/nut combo or re-solder it. If you were to market the concept or make it a UL listed "Appliance" you'd probably have to use a block or bolt.

Either way, it kicks ass!!! :rockin:

 

[evanmars]

Ditto to the above. Didn't mean to be cryptic.
Also, probably not as much of an issue with a ground wire, but in a current carrying conductor, it is definitely not a good idea.
If the solder connection starts to deteriorate, the resistance at the junction goes up. When resistance goes up, temperature follows. When the temp goes up, the solder connection gets weaker, increasing the resistance. Vicious cycle kinda thing.

 

[pen25]

for the fan remember the chimney effect. inlet low exhaust hi. and better to draw fro both sides and exhaust in the center