240v eBIAB Build with Portable GFCI

[LittlejohnBrew]

Been researching electric brewing for a month or so now and starting to piece together my build. I figured I'd start a thread here to document the build and get feedback. Initially I planned to post once I got everything planned out, but yesterday I came across what appears to be a steal on some portable 240v Hubbell GFCIs. I found the GFP2312 on Amazon for $70 which includes 25' 10/3 to the load. I purchased the last one available through Amazon, but there appears to be some GFP2311s still available at a good price.

I wanted to go ahead and post just in case others are interested in these GFCIs.

As far as my build I orginally posted in the automation forums with an interest in using BruControl, but have decided for my purposes a simple 240v EZboil setup makes the most sense. I plan to do a single vessel 240v eBIAB for 5 gallon batches. Originally I planned on using a spa panel and feeding 10/4 to my control panel to power both the heater and a 120v pump. Now with the 10/3 portable GFCI it appears powering the pump from the circuit isn't possible so I'll likely just plug the pump into a 120v circuit using a PWM for control (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/111851538617).

Back to the GFCI. My plan is to plug the 10/3 GFCI into my dryer's 14-30R. Is it fine to wire the 10/3 from the GFCI to a 14-30P, leave the neutral empty, and plug directly into the 4 wire dryer outlet? I asked one of my coworkers who is an PE electrical engineer and he called this "floating the neutral" which he says isn't a good practice. I rent this property so making changes to the circuit is out of the question.

 

[tofuguy]

I recall looking into these portable gfcis until I realized this is for a single leg 240v. Be sure this unit is what you want before buying it. I ended up going the traditional route with a normal breaker. I think a spa panel is your best bet.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Already bought it. Could return or try to sell. Product page says...

• Trips if ground and neutral touch at load side
• Open neutral protection Trips upon loss of neutral

That should have it covered right?

https://www.hubbell.com/hubbell/en/...FCI/30Amp-Devices/GFP2312/p/167151?PN=GFP2312

 

[tofuguy]

Problem is you don't have a neutral with a 3 wire 240v system. The black and white wires are both 120v at different phases and a ground. So the statement around a neutral will not be valid in a household application.

 

[golfindia]

Using PWM to control an AC pump may be problematic.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Using PWM to control an AC pump may be problematic.

Sorry should have made it clear it's a 24VDC pump using a 24VDC power supply plugged into a 120VAC circuit. One of the cheap tan pumps. The PWM is wired into the DC side. Is this a problem? I know the link of the PWM I provided is a product many are using with these.

 

[golfindia]

Sorry should have made it clear it's a 24VDC pump using a 24VDC power supply plugged into a 120VAC circuit. One of the cheap tan pumps. The PWM is wired into the DC side. Is this a problem?.

That's much better. No problem there!

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Contacted Hubbell and they confirmed the portable GFCI will work. From their tech support "The GFP2312 is compatible with 240V install (hot, hot, grd)"

They also provided an instruction manual that states...

"240VAC, 1PH, 3 Wires- connect to LINE (PLUG) and LOAD
(CONNECTOR) as follows: 1. Green wire to Ground terminal. 2. Black
wire to Hot terminal (L1). 3. White wire to Hot terminal (L2)."

Now how to wire to 4 wire NEMA 14-30 laundry outlet. Can I wire to a 14-30P and leave the neutral empty?

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Looks like I'm good to go with the 3 wire to 14-30P based on some older threads I've come by.

As I mentioned before I'm looking to keep things simple. Attached is the design I plan to use with the exception of no switch for the EZboil (I believe a doug293cz so thanks to him!)

My BOM can be found here
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...XqyfmewSPt1mKOVEEGe-QJOem0M/edit?usp=drivesdk

A couple questions I have are.

1. Has anyone used the SS Brewtech 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead? It appears to be the same as the popular one at brewhardare. SS Brewtech advertises it for use on flat surfaces. I contacted their support and they verified that is their intent though it could likely be used on the side of a kettle.
2. The heating element I believe was a recommended product from Augiedoggy in another thread. I've never purchased anything from Alibaba before. Anything in particular i shouId be wary of? I've sent in a request for quotation of this part.

Any additional feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[doug293cz]

Looks like I'm good to go with the 3 wire to 14-30P based on some older threads I've come by.

As I mentioned before I'm looking to keep things simple. Attached is the design I plan to use with the exception of no switch for the EZboil (I believe a doug293cz so thanks to him!)

My BOM can be found here
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...XqyfmewSPt1mKOVEEGe-QJOem0M/edit?usp=drivesdk

A couple questions I have are.

1. Has anyone used the SS Brewtech 1.5" TC weldless bulkhead? It appears to be the same as the popular one at brewhardare. SS Brewtech advertises it for use on flat surfaces. I contacted their support and they verified that is their intent though it could likely be used on the side of a kettle.
2. The heating element I believe was a recommended product from Augiedoggy in another thread. I've never purchased anything from Alibaba before. Anything in particular i shouId be wary of? I've sent in a request for quotation of this part.

Any additional feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!

The DSPR110 has been replaced by the DSPR120. The terminal assignments are a little different, so you will have to adjust the design for that.

Here's a newer design that is correct for the DSPR120, and omits the power switch for the DSPR as you plan to do.

Brew on

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Awesome thanks Doug!

For anyone interested i've purchased most items on the BOM at this point. I ended up getting the TC weldless bulkhead from brewhardware. For the heating element I purchased through Alibaba using the same source that many have used (Yuling/Allen Gu).

I did make the mistake of purchasing a 40A Fotek SSR which I've come to find out is likely fake and has a high rate of failure. I ended up buying a generic MGR SSR identical to the Auberin ones. Also purchased a larger heatsink mostly due to the ease of mounting I foresee compared to the small one that comes with the Fotek.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

The cable from my controller to element is SOOW so it's rated to 25A. Since this is a 30A circuit I'm assuming I need to protect this wire? I've found 240v 25A agc fuses, but having trouble finding 25A+ fuse holders rated to 240v. Should I just install a 25A douple pole breaker? If so what's the best way to mount the breaker in the junction box?

 

[GParkins]

Here's a newer design that is correct for the DSPR120, and omits the power switch for the DSPR as you plan to do.

If you build a panel around the power supply as drawn by @doug293cz, just bear in mind that with the abandoned neutral, you will need to source everything you use as compatible with 240VAC. A regular 120v Chugger pump, for example, will not work.

 

[doug293cz]

If you build a panel around the power supply as drawn by @doug293cz, just bear in mind that with the abandoned neutral, you will need to source everything you use as compatible with 240VAC. A regular 120v Chugger pump, for example, will not work.

That is correct.

If the neutral is brought into the control panel enclosure, then 120V compatibility can be added easily in the future.

Brew on

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

That is a really good idea, but unfortunately I didn't think of that and have bought all supplies for 10/3. I got such a good deal on the 10/3 portable GFCI I built everything around that. In retrospect maybe that wasnt a good idea.

Everything in the panel is 240v compatible though and my pump will run on a separate 120v circuit. It's one of the cheap 24vdc tan pumps and controlled by a cheap PWM. Not ideal, but should work fine.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Well I've gotten 99% of the build complete. Still waiting for the aviation connections from China so had to drill a temporary hole. Going to install two aviation connections on the panel and a switch to be able to read two RTD sensors.

Brewed a NEIPA on the build last weekend and everything went well besides the efficiency. Efficiency was about 60% for a no sparge BIAB. My old system i would get about 75% efficiency so my OG was pretty far off. Next batch I plan to do a double crush on the grain, install a siphon spray wort aerator to better distribute the recirc, and ensure conversion is complete with iodine test.

 

[doug293cz]

Rather than doing an iodine test (which can give misleading results), I suggest you measure the SG of the wort during the mash to determine when conversion is complete. The method is here. A refractometer is very handy if you want to use this method.

Brew on

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll have to check that out. I also did my first batch under pressure with this beer. Since you can easily take a sample with a picnic tap I used my refractometer to track fermentation. Never thought of using it during the mash.

I created a spreadsheet using Petr Novotný equations to track the gravity during fermentation. It seemed very accurate compared to hydrometer samples.

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

So moving to Boston soon from rural NC and unfortunately our housing will be downsizing substantially. We have not figured out where we will live yet, but I may not have an easily accessible 240v source. So i'm considering using my controller with 120V. Below is the wiring diagram I used. My plan is to use an extra 12/3 L6-30 cable I have laying around (pictured below) connected to a 120v 15A 5-15 plug for the 120V power in. Line 1 would become NEUTRAL and Line 2 would become LIVE. Any issues here besides the reduced power from 5500W to 1375W? Plan to either get a hot rod or add a second TC heating element to get to ~3000W. Will this all work or am I missing something?

 

[doug293cz]

So moving to Boston soon from rural NC and unfortunately our housing will be downsizing substantially. We have not figured out where we will live yet, but I may not have an easily accessible 240v source. So i'm considering using my controller with 120V. Below is the wiring diagram I used. My plan is to use an extra 12/3 L6-30 cable I have laying around (pictured below) connected to a 120v 15A 5-15 plug for the 120V power in. Line 1 would become NEUTRAL and Line 2 would become LIVE. Any issues here besides the reduced power from 5500W to 1375W? Plan to either get a hot rod or add a second TC heating element to get to ~3000W. Will this all work or am I missing something?

View attachment 616346 View attachment 616345

Yes, that will work. But, you should really use Line 1 for hot and Line 2 for neutral, so that the SSR is switching the hot. Switching the neutral rather than the hot is not code compliant. The current meter will still work just fine on the neutral, since all the current must flow thru the neutral as well as the hot.

Brew on

 

[LittlejohnBrew]

Yes, that will work. But, you should really use Line 1 for hot and Line 2 for neutral, so that the SSR is switching the hot. Switching the neutral rather than the hot is not code compliant. The current meter will still work just fine on the neutral, since all the current must flow thru the neutral as well as the hot.

Brew on

That makes sense. Thanks!