• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

20 gallon SS Brewtech Infussion mash tun

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
dthompson79, please keep us posted on whether the Blichmann false bottom fixes it.

When I've cleaned the MLT in place by scooping out the grain, I've noticed that after I lift out the false bottom, you'll see small bits of grain on the sloped bottom, which I'm pretty sure their materials say it's designed to do. When you add water to clean and drain it, you can watch how some stuff will hang around until it's nearly empty and then the last thin layer of water sloshing around can jar them loose, which I think is the problem. So even longer recircs at the beginning as Ianflean noted may not solve that since I think it'll just help with the grain bed and not what's below on the slope. If the Blichmann let's even a little bit through initially before the bed settles, then that may not solve it. I guess a brew bag may solve it, but part of the reason I bought this was to reduce the amount of synthetic materials on the hot side. I think the key is to either prevent the small bits from getting through the false bottom and onto the slope (maybe Brew Bag or Blichmann) or to find a way to jar them loose during the vorlauf so the slope is cleared before run off. Perhaps speeding up the vorlauf would help, but then you could risk a stuck sparge. Hmmm....

Just tossing out another possibility I don't own this but would like to just gotta justify the cost as I'm set up for BIAB and would need a HLT also..

But back to it would widening your grain mill and changing your crush to a little less fine help with that, at least without sacrificing efficiency? Without pictures I'm assuming it's extremely fine and abnormal particles that you're talking about.
 
Though I haven't tested this, and it will likely be a month or 2 before I can. I spoke at length with the gentleman that did and he claimed it was a night and day difference. I suppose with blichmanns superior false bottom design he may have been able to vorlauf faster in conjunction that less grain made it through. He mentioned when fly sparging the last bit of wort that comes through and carries grain with it on the stock false bottom was remedied. I also crush coarse, about a .045 on a monster 3 roller, and I still see grain in my sight glass for 10-15 minutes into a vorlauf. Including at the end of a fly sparge
 
I find this thread to be depressing. I've been using the same Igloo cooler for 20+ years and I loved the idea of replacing it with stainless. But this thread is convincing me to not buy one. Sigh!
 
Let em work the kinks out. I personally love mine even with the flaws. The vessel is sound. false bottom is the Achille's heel IMO. For single infusion with no MTSS mine holds temps anywhere from .5-.1 degrees of stabilized mash in temp. That is from low 30's to 90's ambient temperature range too. Feet are just an annoyance, but I don't move mine often either.
 
You can tell that thing was a labor of love. You made it look fantastic. Great job!!!
 
Great to hear someone is seeing the grain issue resolved with a different false bottom. Now I'll just have to decide whether to put more money into this.

Spartan1979, you might also want to look into the Chapman stainless MLT. I was heavily thinking about that one but went with the Ss because of the heating option (which I don't recommend) and because there was a forum where people were going back and forth on whether it was bad the Chapman uses 201 stainless instead of 304. I don't know enough about that so I decided not to risk it. But I asked John Palmer about this at the Brewing Network party at NHC in Baltimore this year and, while he wasn't familiar with the product, he talked about the differences between 201 vs. 304 (similar stuff to what I've seen posted), and then concluded that it was no big deal and it should be just fine. I was also attracted to the digital thermometer on the Ss but of course I now regret that too. If I could do it all over again I'd still get a stainless mash tun but I'd get the Chapman. Of course, I haven't used it and can't vouch for it but it'd be cheaper, it'd have an analog thermometer, and it should have the grain issue since it doesn't use a slope bottom. So in theory it'd remedy all my concerns. And I like how the lid clamps down.
 
I find this thread to be depressing. I've been using the same Igloo cooler for 20+ years and I loved the idea of replacing it with stainless. But this thread is convincing me to not buy one. Sigh!

I am in the same boat. I saved up for this and now I think I will just go with a 3 vessel keggel set up . It could be a step in the right direction.
 
Great to hear someone is seeing the grain issue resolved with a different false bottom. Now I'll just have to decide whether to put more money into this.

Spartan1979, you might also want to look into the Chapman stainless MLT. I was heavily thinking about that one but went with the Ss because of the heating option (which I don't recommend) and because there was a forum where people were going back and forth on whether it was bad the Chapman uses 201 stainless instead of 304. I don't know enough about that so I decided not to risk it. But I asked John Palmer about this at the Brewing Network party at NHC in Baltimore this year and, while he wasn't familiar with the product, he talked about the differences between 201 vs. 304 (similar stuff to what I've seen posted), and then concluded that it was no big deal and it should be just fine. I was also attracted to the digital thermometer on the Ss but of course I now regret that too. If I could do it all over again I'd still get a stainless mash tun but I'd get the Chapman. Of course, I haven't used it and can't vouch for it but it'd be cheaper, it'd have an analog thermometer, and it should have the grain issue since it doesn't use a slope bottom. So in theory it'd remedy all my concerns. And I like how the lid clamps down.

Thanks. I'll take a look at the Chapman unit.
 
Great to hear someone is seeing the grain issue resolved with a different false bottom. Now I'll just have to decide whether to put more money into this.

Spartan1979, you might also want to look into the Chapman stainless MLT. I was heavily thinking about that one but went with the Ss because of the heating option (which I don't recommend) and because there was a forum where people were going back and forth on whether it was bad the Chapman uses 201 stainless instead of 304. I don't know enough about that so I decided not to risk it. But I asked John Palmer about this at the Brewing Network party at NHC in Baltimore this year and, while he wasn't familiar with the product, he talked about the differences between 201 vs. 304 (similar stuff to what I've seen posted), and then concluded that it was no big deal and it should be just fine. I was also attracted to the digital thermometer on the Ss but of course I now regret that too. If I could do it all over again I'd still get a stainless mash tun but I'd get the Chapman. Of course, I haven't used it and can't vouch for it but it'd be cheaper, it'd have an analog thermometer, and it should have the grain issue since it doesn't use a slope bottom. So in theory it'd remedy all my concerns. And I like how the lid clamps down.

Sorry to hear about your issues with the SS Brewtech mash tun. Before reading this thread, I'd always assumed that they had all their kinks worked out. But it sounds like they still have a ways to go.

I've seen the Brewtech mash tuns before, but I've never actually used one myself. I don't really have it in the budget to go out and by all my competitors' gear. But what I do have is a fully stocked inventory and a curious mind. I'd like to do a side-by-side comparison with ours, and see all the differences in the brewing experience myself.

So this idea just popped into my head. Would you be interested in doing a swap? If you sent us your used SS Brewtech mash tun, I could send you a new Chapman ThermoBarrel. That way, I'd be able to check out my competition, and you'd have a shiny new mash tun. It would be a win-win situation. All I'd ask is that you'd cover shipping the Brewtech mash tun to Portland, OR. Then we could send you a ThermoBarrel with a domed-false bottom, 3-piece ball valve, and thermometer, all new.

What do you think?
 
Hi Steve, I'm definitely interested in this as I'd love to try out your mash tun, and as noted above, your design seems to eliminate a couple of the big problems I've had. I'd have to figure out the shipping costs. I'll PM you....
 
Reporting back on the 20 G blichmann false bottom. 2 batches in and it works Great!!!! other than the initial little bit during recirculation. I haven't seen one piece of grain make it through. And my mash efficiency jumped 10% (though this may be more of a symptom of switching to RIMS)
 
Reporting back on the 20 G blichmann false bottom. 2 batches in and it works Great!!!! other than the initial little bit during recirculation. I haven't seen one piece of grain make it through. And my mash efficiency jumped 10% (though this may be more of a symptom of switching to RIMS)
Been following this thread with interest, as I just purchased one of these but am not ready to brew with it yet.
What is the manometer like for cleaning? The holes that run from above and below the false bottom are pretty small, do they clean out ok? I can just image bits of grain getting jammed in there.
 
They can be a little of a pain and little bits get caught. I just use a soft little tube brush to wipe them away gently. But the manometer is fantastic at helping me set my re-circulation rate

In my earlier post I wanted to be clear. I have had this MLT the better part of a year and have somewhere in the 10-15 batches ran through it. I was doing single infusion (as I was moving to RIMS) and was happy with everything except the stock false bottom. Figured out the Blichmann false bottoms fit perfectly and it appears to have fixed it. Good re-circulation rate (~1-1.5 G/ min) with a handful of rice hulls thrown in.

20160904_134949_HDR1.jpg


20160904_1336461.jpg


20160904_1451141.jpg
 
Last edited:
I love the addition of the site glass mid rims tube like that!

What did you do to block the opening in the Blichmann false bottom for their dip tube?
 
Question: Why would you spend all the extra money on an insulated tun when you are using a RIMS? I haven't understood this and have seen it a couple places. The only function use for the insulated tun would be a single infusion non recirculated mash, no?
 
Question: Why would you spend all the extra money on an insulated tun when you are using a RIMS? I haven't understood this and have seen it a couple places. The only function use for the insulated tun would be a single infusion non recirculated mash, no?

I started as a single infusion semi gravity system. Then migrated to RIMS. I figured I had it already and it might make it a little easier to hit mash out faster and have better temperature stability.


I love the addition of the site glass mid rims tube like that!

What did you do to block the opening in the Blichmann false bottom for their dip tube?

I got some stainless washers and a bolt sticking up so I would have something to pull the false bottom out
 
Last edited:
Do you have a picture of your Tun with the Blichmann false bottom installed? Would love to see it. I seem to be getting a lot of grain coming through the stock bottom.
 
How difficult is it to clean these things? The 20 gallon is supposed to weigh 60lbs empty(!), so I wouldn't want to have to pick it up and move it to get it clean. Once you've scooped out the majority of the grain and removed the FB, are the remaining bits of grain easily washed out without moving/tilting or anything like that?
 
Do you have a picture of your Tun with the Blichmann false bottom installed? Would love to see it. I seem to be getting a lot of grain coming through the stock bottom.

I am brewing this evening after my brew clubs annual picnic. I will snap a few pics of the process and false bottom then.

How difficult is it to clean these things? The 20 gallon is supposed to weigh 60lbs empty(!), so I wouldn't want to have to pick it up and move it to get it clean. Once you've scooped out the majority of the grain and removed the FB, are the remaining bits of grain easily washed out without moving/tilting or anything like that?

I scoop out as much grain as I can. Bring a hose ran from my sink over (hot tap water) and just spray it down with a bucket under the spigot. Haven't had to move it. It has worked well. I imagine if you didn't get as much grain as possible out first you would have a problem with the drain tube clogging. It isn't very big
 
Here is the false bottom in place, and a few brew day shots just because

Really nice, thanks for sharing. Did the original SS BrewTech silicone ring fit the Blichmann false bottom or did you get a different one? I always struggle wrestling that thing on!
 
:ban:
Really nice, thanks for sharing. Did the original SS BrewTech silicone ring fit the Blichmann false bottom or did you get a different one? I always struggle wrestling that thing on!

It is the original. It actually goes on easier because it has a smooth edge. Takes me like 20 seconds versus the 2 minutes the original did
 
Has anyone found a replacement for the thermometer that ships with the mash tun that will fit in the existing thermowell? The thermometer with my unit is inaccurate by 3-4 degrees F when compared to two other calibrated units.
 
My LHBS didn't have one they could get from their suppliers/distributors. I also couldn't find one on the various online shops I checked. Someone recommended a couple of specific equipment suppliers that are not homebrewing companies and I believe I finally found one but I held off on getting it because of the high price (it was maybe $60, not including shipping), and then I eventually got rid of the Infussion. Sorry, I don't remember the name of the company or who told me about it. But your best bet may be looking outside the homebrew supply realm.
 
Have recent purchasers of the Brewtech mash tun had issues with grain getting through the false bottom or temperature drops? I’m wondering if these issues have been fixed.
 
Can anyone who owns the SS brewtech infussion mash tun comment on if the threaded portion of this part would work to be able to install an analog thermometer. I would prefer the SS tun over the Chapman given the volume markings but sounds like the LCD thermometer is very unreliable. I've read it's a 3/8 fitting for the LCD therm but most everything else is 1/2.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Cen...T-x-3-8-Compression-Fittings/32388264593.html
 
Why not just fly sparge with an extra gallon of sparge water. Then cut it early once your boil volume is obtained. This way way it will run clear and then discard the last gallon that contains the bits... that should be 1010 to 1020 gravity anyways.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top