2 x 2500W Element Wiring Help

[elmito]

So i'm trying to wrap my head around the wiring and AMPS and WATTs. I figured someone here could clear this up for me in a second .

I want to switch over to Electric and use my current keggle. I figured i'd move into my garage and use the existing dryer outlet. Its connected to two 30A breakers and has a Nema 10 dryer outlet.

Does anyone have or know of a wiring diagram I can use? I don't need a PID or Temp Controller. I attached my crappy idea here so you guys can laugh at my attempt to put things together.

2 x 2500W elements ( in one keggle) -> switch / outlets
2 x march pumps -> switches

What do you guys think?

 

[jeffmeh]

Your "two 30A breakers" are really a single, 2-pole, 240V, 30A breaker. You can run one 5500w element off of it at a time, not two.

What type of system are you looking to build? Let's start with "how many vessels?" You could do anything from a single vessel e-BIAB to an e-HERMS like http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/.

 

[jeffmeh]

Also, you probably will need a PWM or a PID with manual mode to dial-in the right amount of heat to maintain a constant boil, unless your 5500w element at full power coincidentally provides exactly the right amount of heat (not likely, as it will probably be too vigorous and likely to boil over).

 

[elmito]

3 vessel eherms similar but much more ghetto than kal's electricbrewery. I plan to use two 2500's. That should be fine on that breaker. I figure run both to bring to boil turn one off to maintain a boil. I'm trying to avoid PIDs for now but it looks like I might as well do it all at once.

 

[ryan_george]

Also consider those "switch/outlet combos" are only rated for 15 A at 120 V. You won't be able to use those 2500 W at 240 V elements with those switches.

 

[jeffmeh]

Personally, I would go with a PID with one 5500w element, rather than two 2500w elements with a hope that one on and one off maintains the boil adequately. It may work out fine for you, but I couldn't tell you. And by the time you build double the amount of element assemblies, drill double the amount of holes, etc., I don't think you are really simplifying things.

 

[IrishBrewer74]

^^^ what he said. My 5500 will hold a boil when set as low as 65% on manual mode with my PID. I use it at 75% and get a strong rolling boil even with 13 gallons in the keggle. Besides double the holes, you'll be surprised at how much room an element takes up much less two of them. Plus that's double the scrubbing after each batch.

Happy Brewing.

 

[elmito]

That makes a lot more sense. If one 5500 will hold a boil I might as well use the money saved to get a PID and all the other necessities for a decent control panel.

So, from what I gather, the PID can be used to A) set the element to turn on/off at a particular temp. (Does this mean the PID needs to be set to over 200 degrees to hold the boil?) or B) manually control the element and set to whatever % of power to hold the boil?

 

[elmito]

Anyone have a 30a 5500 1 Element 2 Pump EStop Single PID WIring Diagram?

I looked here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/list-pj-electrical-diagrams-382286/#post4796166 but I don't think there is one on there.

 

[heckels]

Anyone have a 30a 5500 1 Element 2 Pump EStop Single PID WIring Diagram?

I looked here https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/list-pj-electrical-diagrams-382286/#post4796166 but I don't think there is one on there.

The last one in the first post is almost exactly what you've described. Just don't wire up the second element or toggle switch.

 

[jeffmeh]

That makes a lot more sense. If one 5500 will hold a boil I might as well use the money saved to get a PID and all the other necessities for a decent control panel.

So, from what I gather, the PID can be used to A) set the element to turn on/off at a particular temp. (Does this mean the PID needs to be set to over 200 degrees to hold the boil?) or B) manually control the element and set to whatever % of power to hold the boil?

Yes, except you use B) to boil. Trying to have the PID control the boil by temperature doesn't work. If you set it at 212F (at sea level), it will oscillate between not boiling and boiling too vigorously.

What you can do is use A) set to 210F (at sea level), and when the alarm tells you that you are there, switch over to manual mode and dial in the right percentage. That makes sure you are present to avoid a boil over when it first comes to a boil.

Just make sure the PID has manual mode, like http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

 

[processhead]

Sorry to hijack the thread.

I know a lot of brewers have successfully used a PID in manual mode for boil kettle control, but it just seems like excessive complexity and over-kill to me.

With PWM controllers being as cheap, intuitive, and simple to use, what are the advantages of a PID in manual mode that I'm missing.

 

[jeffmeh]

Sorry to hijack the thread.

I know a lot of brewers have successfully used a PID in manual mode for boil kettle control, but it just seems like excessive complexity and over-kill to me.

With PWM controllers being as cheap, intuitive, and simple to use, what are the advantages of a PID in manual mode that I'm missing.

Well, for single-vessel brewing (e-BIAB), you already have the PID for the mash so you can use it for the boil, without an additional PWM.

If you are building a multi-vessel panel, say e-HERMS, you are already wiring a PID to control your mash temp, so wiring a second for the boil allows you to repeat something you already figured out rather than something new. And you get matching displays.

I would argue that in the above cases, adding the PWM is creating additional complexity. That said, the difference in cost is negligible, and it comes down to personal preference.

 

[elmito]

Sooooooo, I made one of these.


Got the idea from here:

http://www.stilldragon.org/discussion/269/diy-controller-not-working/p1

 

[elmito]

And wired up my second march pump. First time I post a picture of my rig. Laugh if you'd like, good sirs, she has over 15 brews under her belt.

 

[processhead]

Nice job, looks like it will get it brewed.