2 x 1500 elements + scorching

[TexasWine]

Texas Wine, do you recirculate your Brau system when you are ramping up to boil? Do you do a mash out?

Just a disclaimer, I swapped out my Brau Supply kettle for a different set up, so I don't use the steamer basket. But, no to both even with the Brau kettle. I might have occasionally recirculated during ramp to boil, but as a general rule I didn't.

I did maybe one step mash with the Brau kettle. But now I do step mashes on every batch, but with only a single element running off the controller. I dial in a new set temp and let it do its thing.

I suspect the mash out was the culprit too.

 

[NTexBrewer]

Alright, I picked up some ingredients for a light lager today. Plan to brew this weekend. I'll pay attention to everything that has been discussed and see how it goes.

 

[augiedoggy]

Surface area I believe.

yup the greater the surface area the less intense the heat per square inch.. bigger element with same wattage= same amount of heat energy transferred but in a safer gentler manner...

 

[dcbw]

You want a ULWD element if you can get it, which are <= 50 W/in2.

Im really skeptical about those short stubby 1500W ones. Maybe they are 50, maybe not.

I ended up going with a foldback 6000W 240V element bent to fit my pot, running at 120V for 1500W and 21 W/in2.

Also make sure no air gets trapped below the bag. Recirculation can pull air through the bag or from the sides if the bag doesn't as much flow as the pump wants. This pocket builds around your element and can definitely cause scorching just like dry firing. Try pulling your bag up a few inches and see if you get a big bubble come up. If you do, step back on the pump or use a coarser mesh bag.

 

[dcbw]

NTexBrewer, if those elements are the same size as the Camco 02852 short stubby version, it's about 90 W/in2. The camco is about 14" of folded element at 3/8 diameter for 16.5 in2. Divide 1500W by that and you get 90.

It would have to be 3/4" in diameter to be in the ULWD range.

 

[TexasWine]

You want a ULWD element if you can get it, which are <= 50 W/in2.

Im really skeptical about those short stubby 1500W ones. Maybe they are 50, maybe not.

I ended up going with a foldback 6000W 240V element bent to fit my pot, running at 120V for 1500W and 21 W/in2.

Also make sure no air gets trapped below the bag. Recirculation can pull air through the bag or from the sides if the bag doesn't as much flow as the pump wants. This pocket builds around your element and can definitely cause scorching just like dry firing. Try pulling your bag up a few inches and see if you get a big bubble come up. If you do, step back on the pump or use a coarser mesh bag.

Where did you source the 6000 watt element?

 

[NTexBrewer]

You want a ULWD element if you can get it, which are <= 50 W/in2.

Im really skeptical about those short stubby 1500W ones. Maybe they are 50, maybe not.

I ended up going with a foldback 6000W 240V element bent to fit my pot, running at 120V for 1500W and 21 W/in2.

Also make sure no air gets trapped below the bag. Recirculation can pull air through the bag or from the sides if the bag doesn't as much flow as the pump wants. This pocket builds around your element and can definitely cause scorching just like dry firing. Try pulling your bag up a few inches and see if you get a big bubble come up. If you do, step back on the pump or use a coarser mesh bag.

I'd like to know where you got your element also.

 

[Jawbox0]

I picked up a foldback 1500W 120v from one of the big Home Improvement stores a few years ago. I had scorching issues before that despite anything else I did.

Actually, here's a 1650 watt foldback!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XMF0LW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[dcbw]

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Rheem-SP...ss-Steel-Resistored-Screw-in-Element-LWD-240V

It's a long element, but it's Incoloy so you can do this:

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1491527103.242049.jpg

 

[NTexBrewer]

I'm happy to report that today's brew was a success with NO scorching. Brewed my Farher in Laws Lighthouse Lager.

I skipped the mashout as was suggested.

After the mash, I pulled the bag and stirred the wort. I have a spin-cycle whirlpool arm so I recirculated my pump through this and turned both elements to 100% power to reach my boil.

I then turned off the pump when I reached boil and did my typical brew.

Elements had the typical beige scum that came off easily during my CIP.

Thanks to everyone that helped me work through this to solve the problem.

So I guess if I do a step mash, I should be able to pull the bag some and recirculate through the whirlpool arm while the elements ramp up to the next mash temperature.

 

[Cire10]

You want a ULWD element if you can get it, which are <= 50 W/in2.

Im really skeptical about those short stubby 1500W ones. Maybe they are 50, maybe not.

I ended up going with a foldback 6000W 240V element bent to fit my pot, running at 120V for 1500W and 21 W/in2.

Also make sure no air gets trapped below the bag. Recirculation can pull air through the bag or from the sides if the bag doesn't as much flow as the pump wants. This pocket builds around your element and can definitely cause scorching just like dry firing. Try pulling your bag up a few inches and see if you get a big bubble come up. If you do, step back on the pump or use a coarser mesh bag.

I made a similar 6000w 240v stick...running 110v = 1500W over a very large surface...no scorching.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PSB3B2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[augiedoggy]

You want a ULWD element if you can get it, which are <= 50 W/in2.

Im really skeptical about those short stubby 1500W ones. Maybe they are 50, maybe not.

I ended up going with a foldback 6000W 240V element bent to fit my pot, running at 120V for 1500W and 21 W/in2.

Also make sure no air gets trapped below the bag. Recirculation can pull air through the bag or from the sides if the bag doesn't as much flow as the pump wants. This pocket builds around your element and can definitely cause scorching just like dry firing. Try pulling your bag up a few inches and see if you get a big bubble come up. If you do, step back on the pump or use a coarser mesh bag.

Those stubbies are not even lwd...

 

[wilserbrewer]

Those stubbies are not even lwd...

The overall length appears similar to HWD elements.

Kinda hard to tell.

 

[portguy]

Did you turn the heat off and then back on again at some point after the boil had started?

If you turn the heat off after break the coagulated proteins will drop to the bottom of your kettle. When you turn it back on they have the potential to scorch because they are no longer suspended by the action of the boil.

This just happened to me. First batch i ruin and this is probably the cause. I had a very vigorous boil (i thought it was too much) and turned off one element. Big mistake: both elements became scorched and i now have 20 L of perfectly ashy Hefeweizen fermenting away...

And all just because i'm dumb!