1st Stout (when to bottle)

[Len_Andov]

Greetings.

I boiled a dry Irish stout kit, (DME) w/ grains, from Alternative Beverage. It was in the bucket for two weeks, racked to Carboy two weeks ago.

I see the foam in the neck but it's been like that since day four. I don't think there's any risk of blowout. But I look at the top area of the beer and I still see tiny bubbles coming up.

So if I'm supposed to take a gravity reading to determine when it's done, here's my question: how do I take a sample from the carboy without risking infection?

If I bottle with priming sugar, and it wasn't done fermenting, will I get geysers/bombs?

If I bottle with no additional sugar (because it's still making bubbles) will I get flat beer? Should I wait more than the four weeks because stouts generally take eight?

Thanx
-A-

 

[RM-MN]

1. You sanitize the wine theif or turkey baster to avoid adding infectious agents and you never return the sample to the carboy.
2. Yes. If there is active fermentation going on when you bottle you will get geysers or bottle bombs. You can also get them if you have a stuck fermentation and bottle and then the ferment restarts in the bottle. That's why you use your hydrometer to make sure the batch is done.
3. You will want much more carbonation when you bottle so yes, if you don't add priming sugar your beer will be pretty flat. All beer will have CO2 dissolved in it and that coming out of solution gives you the tiny bubbles you are seeing.

4. I know you didn't ask this but there is no real reason to move your stout to secondary and very few reasons for any other beer. Leaving it in the primary until it is done reduces the opportunity for infection.

 

[ThunderpantsBrewing]

Greetings.

I boiled a dry Irish stout kit, (DME) w/ grains, from Alternative Beverage. It was in the bucket for two weeks, racked to Carboy two weeks ago.

I see the foam in the neck but it's been like that since day four. I don't think there's any risk of blowout. But I look at the top area of the beer and I still see tiny bubbles coming up.

So if I'm supposed to take a gravity reading to determine when it's done, here's my question: how do I take a sample from the carboy without risking infection?

If I bottle with priming sugar, and it wasn't done fermenting, will I get geysers/bombs?

If I bottle with no additional sugar (because it's still making bubbles) will I get flat beer? Should I wait more than the four weeks because stouts generally take eight?

Thanx
-A-

So you transferred to a carboy after 2 weeks in a bucket, and primary fermentation was still going on? Is that what you're saying?

To take a gravity reading, I sanitize a turkey baster and fill a hydrometer flask with beer, then take a reading. I do not sanitize the flask or the hydrometer, since I taste the beer at this point and don't return it to the carboy.

Yes, you will get bottle bombs if fermentation isn't done. You should not bottle the beer until you get consistent FG readings for a few days. To answer your last question, you should not bottle if the beer is still bubbling in the fermenter. There is no set time for fermentation, the beer is done when FG is consistent for a few days.

Also, at what temperature are you fermenting? Usually 4 weeks and primary is done. I'm very confused by the details here!

 

[flars]

Greetings.

I boiled a dry Irish stout kit, (DME) w/ grains, from Alternative Beverage. It was in the bucket for two weeks, racked to Carboy two weeks ago.

I see the foam in the neck but it's been like that since day four. I don't think there's any risk of blowout. But I look at the top area of the beer and I still see tiny bubbles coming up.
The bubbles are probably CO2 coming out of solution.

So if I'm supposed to take a gravity reading to determine when it's done, here's my question: how do I take a sample from the carboy without risking infection?
The best time to take a gravity reading is after about two weeks in the primary. Then take a second reading a few days later. If the readings are the same, FG has been reached. A few more days in the primary and the beer might be ready to bottle. I typically go no less than three weeks in the primary. Then I am in no rush to bottle. Extra time in the primary allows the trub and yeast cake to compact, resulting in more beer in the bottle.

Before you take a hydrometer sample, sanitize your equipment and the mouth of the carboy. Have a small container of sanitizer ready to put the bung and air lock in after you pull it. A beer wine thief is best for taking samples. A turkey baster will also work if it is long enough.

If I bottle with priming sugar, and it wasn't done fermenting, will I get geysers/bombs?
If fermentation is not complete, and you add more sugar for the yeast to work on, bottle pressure will be extreme. Yes, perhaps boom.

If I bottle with no additional sugar (because it's still making bubbles) will I get flat beer? Should I wait more than the four weeks because stouts generally take eight?
If fermentation is complete, flat beer will be the result. The minimal CO2 in solution, after fermentation, will not carbonate a bottle. Going for eight weeks will allow all the CO2 to come out of solution in the primary, or a secondary vessel.
Thanx
-A-

Your stout may have finished with two weeks in the primary. Racking off the yeast cake, before fermentation is complete, risks stalling the fermentation or not having enough yeast left in suspension to clean up off flavors produced during the fermentation. Major off flavors are less likely in a stout than in a beer which was mainly pilsner malt though.

 

[Len_Andov]

So you transferred to a carboy after 2 weeks in a bucket, and primary fermentation was still going on? Is that what you're saying?

Yes the airlock activity was nil after day 9 and I can't see inside the bucket to check- which is why i racked to carboy; visibility.

Thanx both of you for the turkey baster siphon idea.

Temp is approx 70f primary and 65f +/- 8 secondary.

 

[ThunderpantsBrewing]

I think Flars is right that your bubbles were probably CO2 coming out of solution, but you should take the hydrometer reading before you transfer to another vessel, if you transfer at all. For most beers, I just leave them in primary for a couple of weeks after they finish so that the yeast has time to work it's magic cleaning up off-flavors and whatnot.

 

[mrgrimm101]

4. I know you didn't ask this but there is no real reason to move your stout to secondary and very few reasons for any other beer. Leaving it in the primary until it is done reduces the opportunity for infection.

Yes. It's all based on personal preference, but ideally you should leave it in primary. I would have left it in for the 3-4 weeks. Racking to secondary really doesn't benefit this style of beer. The yeast would have cleaned up nicely and settled within that time frame, and you avoid the risk of infection or oxidation.

 

[Len_Andov]

Thanx again everyone.

My plan is to thoroughly sanitize a turkey baster and the bung and airlock and take gravity readings every couple days next week. If it stays level I'll move it to bottles with priming sugar.

OH! I almost forgot. I got a 2.5 mini keg that I get to use for the first time. WOOT! And some bottles too :-/

But some of you are suggesting avoid secondary. My primary does have a spigot which I think I could safely use for the first reading. How to clean it to avoid backtracking infection?

If I was confident about not backing any hoodlums into the bucket I'd be willing to try a batch with primary to bottles. Just one question then, how to mix priming sugar solution thoroughly without stirring air into the batch?

Cheers
-A-

 

[mrgrimm101]

Thanx again everyone.
Just one question then, how to mix priming sugar solution thoroughly without stirring air into the batch?

Get your solution ready and pour it in the bottom of the priming bucket. The priming bucket should be the one with the spigot on it. Then you set up your autosiphon or racking cane and coil your hose so its in the bottom of the priming bucket and start your transfer. Because the hose is coiled in the priming bucket, it will create a swirl or whirlpool motion and this will help it mix in with the priming solution.

I'm pretty sure you can stir it at this point, just be careful not to stir too aggressively. You don't want it to bubble or foam at this point.