1st batch help please...

[brian862107]

I'm new to homebrewing and recently got all the kit and I am doing preparation for my 1st batch soon. I have 1 kg dextrose, pre-hopped malt extract and yeast and a beginners kit. I have 40 500ml bottles - how much dextrose do I need for each bottle on bottling day? I don't have any adjunct for my 1st brew. How long do you boil the wort for? What temperature does it need to boil at?

 

[mpride1911]

I don't know anything about extract brewing, but I do know that boiling is boiling. 212 is it, any hotter and you have water vapor. As far as boil time, the one extract recipe I did was a 30 minute boil.

 

[NWAleDad]

Did the kit come with instructions? Here, this will get you started. http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html

You do not add Dextrose to each bottle. You make a simple syrup and add that to the bottling bucket when it is time to bottle.

Most recipes call for a 60min boil.

the temp you boil at, is the temp it boils...~220.

 

[jethro55]

The answers are covered pretty well in this thread. Bring it to a boil and turn off the heat. Let it sit for 10 minutes and then cool it. Add water to fill to the batch volume (usually 5 gallon batches). Try to make the total wort volume reach 65-70 degrees before adding yeast.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/do-pre-hopped-lme-kits-benefit-boiling-183350/

That is one very helpful reference mentioned in the previous post.

The 1 kg of corn sugar is frowned on cause it can give cidery flavors to some degree. DME instead is the mainstream.

You'll want to use 4 oz of corn sugar for the 5 gallon batch. Some will say 5 oz, I'll recommend that you use 4 oz on this first one.

 

[Mojzis]

Okay so here we go:

Edited: 1) See posts above.

2) You cool that down with an ice bath or wort chiller when its done boiling.

3) Transfer to fermenter when it gets down to 65. Make sure this fermenter is sanitized. Star san is best. A powder cleaner usually requires a few rinsings; don't skimp on the rinsings here.

4) Pitch your yeast. If the package/instructions say re-hydrate do so.

5) Put on your air lock (sanitized) or blow off tube. Blowoff tubes can be googled; use google to find out how to make one. They will always be handy and you will likely need one.

6) Ferment for ~3 weeks. Don't bottle early because bubbles have stopped. Bottle after 3 weeks. Or use your hydrometer to get a reading of the finished gravity. Readings should be done between 2-3 weeks of fermenting. The same reading 3 days in a row means you are ready to bottle.

7) Boil sugar in 1 cup of water. Use this calculator to see how much: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/. The calculator is self explanatory. Boil the sugar in 1 cup of water.

8) Pour this water/sugar into sanitized bottling bucket. Sanitize racking can and siphon. Use these to add beer from fermenter to bottling bucket. It will pour on top of your sugar solution. You want this to mix well. Allow it to whirlpool, then mix gently with a sanitized spoon.

9) Then simply bottle in your sanitized bottles. A bottling wand will be great here. I suggest getting one if you don't have one.

10) Store these at ~70F for 3 weeks before opening. Chill them first obviously. They are best chilled for a few days before serving.

11) Pour into a glass, leave the last inch with the sediment in the bottle.

12) Enjoy.

 

[jethro55]

Okay so here we go:

1) You boil for 1 hour at whatever temperatures your elevation and atmospheric pressure allow. You want a good rolling boil, not a wimpy boil. You don't have to go nuts, just keep it rolling.

2) You cool that down with an ice bath or wort chiller when its done boiling.

3) Transfer to fermenter when it gets down to 65. Make sure this fermenter is sanitized. Star san is best. A powder cleaner usually requires a few rinsings; don't skimp on the rinsings here.

4) Pitch your yeast. If the package/instructions say re-hydrate do so.

5) Put on your air lock (sanitized) or blow off tube. Blowoff tubes can be googled; use google to find out how to make one. They will always be handy and you will likely need one.

6) Ferment for ~3 weeks. Don't bottle early because bubbles have stopped. Bottle after 3 weeks. Or use your hydrometer to get a reading of the finished gravity. Readings should be done between 2-3 weeks of fermenting. The same reading 3 days in a row means you are ready to bottle.

7) Boil sugar in 1 cup of water. Use this calculator to see how much: http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/. The calculator is self explanatory. Boil the sugar in 1 cup of water.

8) Pour this water/sugar into sanitized bottling bucket. Sanitize racking can and siphon. Use these to add beer from fermenter to bottling bucket. It will pour on top of your sugar solution. You want this to mix well. Allow it to whirlpool, then mix gently with a sanitized spoon.

9) Then simply bottle in your sanitized bottles. A bottling wand will be great here. I suggest getting one if you don't have one.

10) Store these at ~70F for 3 weeks before opening. Chill them first obviously. They are best chilled for a few days before serving.

11) Pour into a glass, leave the last inch with the sediment in the bottle.

12) Enjoy.

That's a great set of instructions for an extract brew requiring hop additions. But this one is pre-hopped. Most of this kind are "no-boil" kits. The bittering, flavor and aroma are built in to the LME.

 

[CDGoin]

Okay so here we go:

1) You boil for 1 hour at whatever temperatures your elevation and atmospheric pressure allow. You want a good rolling boil, not a wimpy boil. You don't have to go nuts, just keep it rolling.

I have a question that kind of dovetails into this..

The new brew pot I got has a thin bottom, and the induction stove we have made it hot so it poped into itself and did not make direct contact with stove top surface.

So I noticed when taking measurements, I couldnt get above 200 or so degrees.. I got to a gentle boil but never a full on rolling boil.

The POSITIVE was nothing burned on the bottom of the pot, and never had a chance of boiling over.

Whats the negative..? It was hot enough for everything to get into solution really well, and the brew looks good..

Is boiling your wort at 190-200 OK instead of the 212 rolling boil you normally see..?

 

[Mojzis]

That's a great set of instructions for an extract brew requiring hop additions. But this one is pre-hopped. Most of this kind are "no-boil" kits. The bittering, flavor and aroma are built in to the LME.

Ah I see. I have ever done this, but I imagine everything under the boil should work well if followed.

I have a question that kind of dovetails into this..

The new brew pot I got has a thin bottom, and the induction stove we have made it hot so it poped into itself and did not make direct contact with stove top surface.

So I noticed when taking measurements, I couldnt get above 200 or so degrees.. I got to a gentle boil but never a full on rolling boil.

The POSITIVE was nothing burned on the bottom of the pot, and never had a chance of boiling over.

Whats the negative..? It was hot enough for everything to get into solution really well, and the brew looks good..

Is boiling your wort at 190-200 OK instead of the 212 rolling boil you normally see..?

Short answer: yes it will work.

However the issue lies in hop utilization. As I understand it the stronger boil extracts more out of the hops. The beer's bitterness may vary between batches, and might be less bitter than planned for. Time also helps. 90 min boiled hops vs 60 min.

I have also heard doubts about clarity with a lesser boil. But I haven't experimented here, but I would look into this if you don't plan on getting a better heat source or pot. If you're concerned anway.

Next is calculating boiloff. Doing all grain I account for a strong boil to get me 1g/hr boiled off. I imagine less heat means less boil off which might need to be calculated.

 

[NWAleDad]

Would sub par boil affect the hot break?

 

[Mojzis]

Would sub par boil affect the hot break?

I believe this was the issue with clarity. Not an effective enough hot break. The coagulation would help settle proteins.

 

[CDGoin]

Thanks..

A Lot of the problems with grain won't be an issue (right now) as I am extract brewing for the most part.

As for hops, again I use the minimum in hops and truly hate hoppy beer, so if it cuts down some of the hops, to me that would be fine. I prefer a sweeter beer over a hoppier one. Needless to say the term IPA will never find itself in my signature.

 

[Mojzis]

Yeah I wouldn't go out and buy a new pot personally. I'd just leave it and make due until something fell into my lap. If you notice the bitterness is off, I'd just compensate on the next batch by some.

I used to think the same thing. Eventually I turned to the dark side

 

[CDGoin]

Yeah I wouldn't go out and buy a new pot personally. I'd just leave it and make due until something fell into my lap. If you notice the bitterness is off, I'd just compensate on the next batch by some.

I used to think the same thing. Eventually I turned to the dark side

I love dark beers.. Stouts and Porters are particular favorite.. and the less hoppy they are, the better too

I personally think all beers improve with less attention to the hops for taste. Just enough to temper the sweetness, add aroma, etc.. and not enough to be a over encompassing flavor.

I have tried dozens of IPAs, and a few home brewed ones I could live with but they would be nothing I brew and nothing I buy.

 

[RM-MN]

Needless to say the term IPA will never find itself in my signature.

Never is a long, long time. I didn't like hoppy beers either when I started but now, 5 years down the road I am starting to enjoy a little more bitterness.

 

[CDGoin]

OK.. PROBABLY Never