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15 gal conical I put together

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Sounds great! thanks for the info, good luck with the competition.


I will be going to a family reunion about 20 miles away from where these are made over spring break and thought since no shipping, may just have to get 2....
 
I don't know if this is already old news here, but when I was ordering the 15 gallon inductor tank/stand from Tank Depot limprizol mentioned, I entered "homebrew" in the discount field for a lark and wound up getting a 5% discount!
Hope it helps!
 
I sealed the top of my inductor tank with Silicone (100%) about 3 weeks ago. The thing still reaks of Silicone. Will that smell ever dissipate or am I going to have to name my beers I2PAsilicony ? Afraid to use it so far.
 
I have two of these, and am leaking c02 out. It hasnt really effected the brew so far, but makes me nervous not seeing any activity in the air lock. ( lots of SG checking). I tried taking a roll of rubber window tape and placing it between the female plastic collar and the tank itself with no luck ( I did over lap it)

What did those using these conicals succesfully use to seal them, and how was it done?

I was planning on using Aquarium Silicon, but sounds like that might be a bad idea based on the last post.
 
I sealed the top of my inductor tank with Silicone (100%) about 3 weeks ago. The thing still reaks of Silicone. Will that smell ever dissipate or am I going to have to name my beers I2PAsilicony ? Afraid to use it so far.
In reply to my own post - I finally got around to calling DAP products and was told by support that the Silicone odor was from a vinegar or vinegar like residue on the surface as the product cures. They suggest a soapy water wash to remove the residue. Next project is a bathtub rinse!
 
I have two of these, and am leaking c02 out. It hasnt really effected the brew so far, but makes me nervous not seeing any activity in the air lock. ( lots of SG checking). I tried taking a roll of rubber window tape and placing it between the female plastic collar and the tank itself with no luck ( I did over lap it)

What did those using these conicals succesfully use to seal them, and how was it done?

I was planning on using Aquarium Silicon, but sounds like that might be a bad idea based on the last post.


Since CO2 is heavier than air and you harvest from the bottom, you should be safe with a layer of CO2 sitting on your wort. If you are worried you could also vent some CO2 from a tank into your fermenter after harvesting/draining out any yeast or wort to purge any oxygen on top.

That said, out of curiosity, which brand of conical did you order? There have been several linked in this thread so far.
 
issack; can you finally sit down after a couple of weeks after getting hammered by that crazy shipping bill? Man that is not right to stick you that
much vs left to right coast on the mainland. Sure looks like your getting your use out of it. Do you have a picture if the racking arm from the inside of your fermentor?
 
issack; can you finally sit down after a couple of weeks after getting hammered by that crazy shipping bill? Man that is not right to stick you that
much vs left to right coast on the mainland. Sure looks like your getting your use out of it. Do you have a picture if the racking arm from the inside of your fermentor?

I know.. shipping kills me here..:mad:

I'll get a shot of it from the inside after i bottle this weekend.
 
The boil pot is 40 Gallons also, I do 30 Gallon batches......

Brewstructure2.jpg


looks like you had just finished spray painting that stand, since there is blue paint on the concrete just under it :)
 
issack, does your conical seal, so the airlock bubbles? I don't know if I read over it or not in the forum. Did you need to do anything to the the lid for a air tight seal? Also, for the racking arm, did you do anything special with it on the inside?
 
I've seen several ask it, but no answers. For those of you using these plastic inductor/conicals, have you been able to rig up a ROTATING racking arm? I am thinking of buying two of these in 60 gallon size and also wondering about using bigger than 1/2" Any experience in that?

Thanks.
 
I have a couple of these plastic conicals that i bought off someone in my homebrew club who never used them, so I'm not sure which manufacturer they came from.

As for the CO2 leakage though, when I first used them I also had problems with the CO2 leakage and having nothing coming up through the airlock. The beer turned out fine, but I was still concerned. So I got a tube of food grade lube and put a large bead around the top of the conical tank and screwed the lid down into it. So there's a slick mess around the rim, but none of it gets into the tank, and effectively seals the lid shut, so the airlock bubbles and nothing gets in. Hope that helps!
 
A little off topic as far as functionality...
As a food scientist and nutritionist I would stay away from any plastic that isn't BPA free. This chemical is used in bulk plastic manufacture and has been shown to cause genetic changes in germ line cells - that right kids, you're little soldiers and her eggs (the reason that Nalgene has changed the plastic they use in their water bottles). This means that you're kids have these changes in every cell of their body - changes that have been linked to several serious diseases. This isn't a big deal if you're using plastic tubing in you're set up because the brew is only in contact for a short time, but when you are fermenting in plastic...
Just a thought - I'd stick with stainless if you can.
 
A little off topic as far as functionality...
As a food scientist and nutritionist I would stay away from any plastic that isn't BPA free.

Well then you probably know that the polyethylene these things are made of is BPA free, right? :)

Only polycarbonate and PVC contain BPA, and not even all types of those plastics do. HDPE, polyethylene, and PET are all BPA-free.
 
I am going to order a few of these from tank depot and build a nice roll around rack. I am so sick of transferring beer that this will make my hobby so much nicer...
 
Zinger keep us update to date on how this goes. I will do this but have to get the wife in better mode, get a new job, and lay 1000 sq feet of hardwood flooring.
 
I ordered the ACE version of this tank from here last week:
http://www.tank-depot.com/product.aspx?id=854

I am starting to worry since it's bottom angle is around 53deg and the Norwesco tank is referenced at 60deg. I always heard that 60deg is the magic number... is the 53deg going to be enough for the yeast to settle at the bottom of the tank to empty out?
 
...went with a hanging setup so no pump is required. Keep it low when I drain from the keggle, and raise when finished pitching the yeast until fermentation is complete. Using a boat winch mounted to the ceiling to crank it up.

I am using basically the same fittings as the OP but also adding stainless fittings (90L, 4in nip) within the fermenter to have the side valve piping within the tank hover over the bottom dump fitting within the fermenter to get as much beer out as possible.

https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/uploads/41119/1116091819.jpg

https://cdn.homebrewtalk.com/gallery/uploads/41119/1116092030.jpg
 
My basement stays at 60 in the winter and 68 in the summer. I am going to just stick with no temp control right now and see how it works out...
 
Is there any reason you couldn't use schedule 40 PVC fittings on this? I just ordered 2 of these. $170.00 shipped.
 
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