120V Small Batch Brewing Setup

[rrittenhouse]

I can understand wanting more headroom for further expansion. However, I would like to see someone else do this with 120V/20A as I am currently a renter and I think it wouldn't be smart to pay someone to run 220v for a brew system.

 

[DeeDub76]

But a 20A would and that's not hard to come by. I wonder the same thing. for a 3.5G setup, why would you need two outlets?

Still being somewhat new to the brewing world. I was under the thinking that at some point during the brewing process it was necessary to run both heating elements at the same time, therfore requiring two 20A outlets. Knowing now that is not necessary I would like to continue with my original plan of 120V setup. Using a 3 position switch to select between heating elements would prevent both elements ever being turned on at the same time.

You must've gotten your other ferrules from BrewMagic? 1/2" and 3/4" triclover stuff is hard to find!

I work in the bio/pharm industry. (wink wink)

 

[IrregularPulse]

I can understand wanting more headroom for further expansion. However, I would like to see someone else do this with 120V/20A as I am currently a renter and I think it wouldn't be smart to pay someone to run 220v for a brew system.

Still being somewhat new to the brewing world. I was under the thinking that at some point during the brewing process it was necessary to run both heating elements, therfore requiring two 20A outlets. Knowing now that is not necessary I would like to continue with my original plan of 120V setup. Using a 3 position switch to select between heating elements would prevent both elements ever being turned on at the same time.


I work in the bio/pharm industry. (wink wink)

To both of these. Take a look at jKarps Counter top Brutus 20. It's what I'm in the process of making too. 2 vessel 120V 20A setup with one heating element and one pump. 3.5G batches.

If all goes well, I'll be also (in the future) making a 10G version for the garage using a 240V/50A outlet.

 

[BeantownD]

It could be done in a way that actually simplifies things.

Instead of plugging into two separate 120V circuits, he could plug into one 240V circuit, but split that into two separate 120V domains inside his panel.

So, everything could still be 120V, but it just gets fed with a single 240V source.

I did the same thing with my rig. I have 2 2000W heatsticks that are fed from a 240V On a 30A breaker. I have room for both heatsticks a pump and an agitator that I built for my HLT. Not as nice as Kal's (who's is?), but it's effective.

 

[jkarp]

This puppy's gonna be a thing of beauty. Subscribed.

 

[DeeDub76]

Progress is slow as pieces for this build trickle in. Well that and having money to buy those pieces. Kettles have been welded and ready for installation

Unistrut installed for control panel mounting



Holes drilled for bottom draining kettles and RTD wires.

 

[DeeDub76]

Awesome weldless sight glass from Bobby.

Tri-clamp heating elements wired and in place.

Wires dropped into control panel. I am accumulating a lot of electrical parts, but still waiting on a few items to get the control panel underway.

An aerial view of the kettles. MLT on the right and BK on the left. Both will have false bottoms.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Looks really clean so far. nice work.

 

[ScubaSteve]

This build is awesome....it makes me want to start mine all over again! I like that clean look...you're going to have a really nice rig!

 

[rrittenhouse]

*Fap* *Fap* *Fap* - Brew Pr0n!

It looks VERY nice. I really like how this build is taking shape. Keep us up to date! (and jealous!)

 

[IrregularPulse]

This build is awesome....it makes me want to start mine all over again! I like that clean look...you're going to have a really nice rig!

Agreed. Makes me excited again to think about my next 10G system.

 

[DeeDub76]

This build is awesome....it makes me want to start mine all over again! I like that clean look...you're going to have a really nice rig!

Thanks Steve! I actually got a lot of inspiration from your setup.

 

[DeeDub76]

Some of the electrical parts coming together.

Stainless goods

Control panel cut.

Switches, Timer and PID's installed. Still waiting for buzzer/indicator alarm. (It's coming from Hong Kong)

 

[IrregularPulse]

Nice work on the control cabinet. I'm guessing you work in the field or have access to someone who does with those special punches and labels.

 

[DeeDub76]

Thanks IP. I actually purchased the control panel (used) off Ebay with the circular holes already punched. I actually cut the square openings with a jigsaw and lots of lube. As far as the labels go though...yes made at work.

 

[IrregularPulse]

Wow, Nice jigsaw work.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Ha....my buzzer/indicator is on the slow boat from China as well! Thos are some sweet pics, especially digging the swagelok stuff. Do you have a bender? There's nothing like custom SS tubing!

 

[DeeDub76]

We must've ordered from the same person...Ebay?

All the plumbing is going to be hard piped so I am hoping to do a few bends. Hopefully I don't screw it up as my supply of stainless tubing is limited.

 

[DeeDub76]

I thought I would also include my ever changing schematic for this build. I also may be setting myself up to be flamed by doing this. Anyways.....

 

[Walker]

are you using dual SSR's or something?

 

[DeeDub76]

are you using dual SSR's or something?

I'm not sure I understand your question. I am using one SSR per heating element. One element for the BK and the other element for the MLT. Each controlled by their respective PID.

 

[Walker]

I'm not sure I understand your question. I am using one SSR per heating element. One element for the BK and the other element for the MLT. Each controlled by their respective PID.

I asked because your schematic makes it look like the SSRs are outputting both hot and neutral to the elements. I wasn't sure if you were using some sort of short-hand type notation.

Neutral to the elements (and indicator lamsp) will come directly from the incoming power feed (your neutral bus-bar/terminal strip thing). Hot will pass through the SSR before going to the element.

 

[DeeDub76]

Ahhhhh......Now I know what your saying. Like this?

 

[Walker]

Yeah. The only thing missing is a connection from your hot bus to the other terminal on the SSRs.

And, one suggestion. The PIDs don't need anywhere near 1A to operate, so you might want to put smaller fuses in there to protect them. I use 0.3A to protect mine.

 

[Walker]

Oh... and you are kind of pushing the limit on 20A with the 2000W elements and the pump.

2000W = 16.7A.
Pump = 1.4A

You're under 20A, but close to it. It probably won't really be an issue, but it's something to keep in mind.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

The 2000W element and pumps are not an issue from experience. Your schematic is getting closer.

 

[Walker]

The 2000W element and pumps are not an issue from experience. Your schematic is getting closer.

Yeah. I don't think it'll be an issue either. Especially if he's actually getting less than 120v from the wall.

If it's 110v, then the element will only produce 1680W and draw 15.3A.

I use 25A breakers for a 5500W/240V element (and I really get 240V) and that's pushing the limit, and I've never had any issues either.

 

[DeeDub76]

Ok....here is the "ever changing " schematic update.

 

[Walker]

Looking pretty good.

The only other comment I have is that you are relying on the center selector switch to turn off an element by cutting the control signal from the PIDs to the SSR for that element.

Most folks don't like to rely on the SSR control signal as a cut-off mechanism because of the comment constantly thrown around that SSRs can fail in the "ON" mode. Meaning, they will pass power through even when the PID isn't telling them to do so.

You do have a master power switch, but it might be a good idea to put in secondary power switches for each element so that you can manually turn them off "for sure" by cutting the hot line into or out of the SSR rather than turn them off with that center selector switch on the SSR control lines.

That's a personal choice for you to make.

 

[Walker]

What you could do is: instead of using a selector switch to control which SSR is getting a control signal, just hook the PIDs straight to their respective SSRs and instead use a selector switch to control which of the SSRs is receiving the 120v hot signal.

So.. no extra switches involved, just a re-definition of what the center selector switch is controlling.