120v blichmann boil coil

[BrunDog]

Keep in mind you can't plug in two elements unless they are on separate circuits.

 

[augiedoggy]

Bending these elements to fit smaller kettles is in vogue right now....pretty sure you can increase the bends in the ripple element to "shrink" the length. There is a current thread, but I couldn't find it....

I was gonna suggest this too but wasnt sure how crowded his kettle would get... even with two ripple elements you would want a way to remove at least one for easier cleanup I think..

 

[augiedoggy]

The Johnson A419 has had no problem controlling a 1650W element for about 4 or 5 years. Using a router speed control and stirring prevents scorching.

No need no fancy chit.

Thats awesome to know... It goes against the norm of what I have been taught about mechanical relays but its great to know that in your experience, they can stand up to the repeated hot switching and not burn or fuse the contacts in the relay.

I have heard of using the router controller.. I think they are a great option too. I wouldnt consider choosing lower watt density elements to not have to worry about stirring "Fancy chit" though.... Just a safer option... One can pick up 2 all stainless 5500w ripple elements for $55 with shipping ( https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=368787 ) and never have to worry about rusting and also be set for when /if they decide to go to 240v in the future...

 

[IslandLizard]

I ordered 2 1500 watt ULWD elements. The Johnson controller can handle I believe 15amps which 1500/120v=12.5 amps so I think I'll be alright there. I was trying NOT to drill 2 holes in my kettle but I only have regular kitchen gfci outlets to work with at the moment so I think this may be my only option to move to electric.

Interesting discourse over a seemingly simple question...

Just a word of caution before you drill holes, the 2 elements will need to be mounted at different heights.

And as said before, direct firing with an element embedded deeply in the mash will lead to hot zones, killing enzymatic activity, and possible scorching. FWIW, it's VERY difficult to stir a pot full of mash with 1 element, let stand one with 2, criss-crossed.

You do need to make sure each of the 2 GFCI outlets you're using is on a different circuit. In modern construction it likely is and at 20A.

 

[jcs401]

Now I'm thinking scrap every idea I had/have and just dish out the extra for a BIAB kit from high gravity. Simply for the reason of getting a whole kit for like $600 which comes with everything needed (minus the pump which I have). After adding the cost up for a pid, element, the grain basket and all that it would be only about $200 more to just get the joke kit that comes with everything needed and I would t have to worry so much about electrical wiring and what not.

 

[jcs401]

Also I could sell my two kettles (11 gallon bayou with ss ball valve and my 8 gallon, and 5 gallon mash tun) to make up some of the money to buy a full kit.

 

[augiedoggy]

How about this simple cheaper 3rd option.... mount one 1500w element in the kettle for boiling with no controller needed and use this $60 1800w induction plate for temp control and heat for mashing? you can also control multiple kettles with it...



http://www.webstaurantstore.com/ava...gygIhHJdm2X0IYsZDB-pCy3SDcLSBSVTsYaAgXe8P8HAQ

 

[jcs401]

That says it is only 8"? My kettle is 13.5" in diameter. Also, how would this do temp control?

 

[jcs401]

Would this kit,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087O6S2A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Work if I made my own pid controller? Obviously would need the sensor for temp,wires and box. But for the basic internal components is this all I would need?

 

[IslandLizard]

That says it is only 8"? My kettle is 13.5" in diameter. Also, how would this do temp control?

I have its 3500W cousin. My 8 gallon pot is 14" wide, the 15 gallon one is 17" wide. They both work fine on it! You only control output, basically. They're very suitable for brewing.

If and only IF you have access to 240V (like a dryer outlet) or can rig up 2 extension cords from 2 different circuits* (non-GFCI), you can use the IC3500 ($180) for all your beer brewing and don't even need a kettle element.

*The 2 breakers need to be on opposite sides in the main panel. 15A each is sufficient.

Alternatively run a 240V line to your brewing area.

 

[jcs401]

The Johnson A419 has had no problem controlling a 1650W element for about 4 or 5 years. Using a router speed control and stirring prevents scorching.



No need no fancy chit.

Can you explain? Does the router speed control adjust the current output to the element? As in, the Johnson plugs into the wall, router plugs into the Johnson and the element into the speed control??

 

[AnOldUR]

Can you explain? Does the router speed control adjust the current output to the element? As in, the Johnson plugs into the wall, router plugs into the Johnson and the element into the speed control??

Exactly. The Johnson A419 turns the element on and off and is controlled with a thermowell in the mash. The router speed control sets the wattage the element is putting out. It's a lot more hands on than a PID, but I like being in control.

I also have a pass thru volt meter so that there's a number attached to where the dial on the speed control is set. Makes it a lot easier to get consistent results.

Read somewhere that you couldn't have a heating element directly in the mash. Had to prove to myself that I could. Now I get to make beer with it.

 

[jcs401]

I see, so you have had no issues with Scortching? Basically wanna do the 1 1500 W element going through a temperature controller and recirculation for the mash. And one time to boil, I'll plug-in the other 1500 W element at full power. Does this seem like there would be any issues by going this route?

 

[AnOldUR]

I see, so you have had no issues with Scortching? Basically wanna do the 1 1500 W element going through a temperature controller and recirculation for the mash. And one time to boil, I'll plug-in the other 1500 W element at full power. Does this seem like there would be any issues by going this route?

Morning and fueled with coffee instead of beer, I'll be less encouraging and try to be less cryptic. There were scorched and dumped batches along the way. The key to making an element in the mash work was perfecting a continuous stirring technique, not recirculation. Even though I haven't scorched for the last +/- 50 batches, "perfecting" is not the right word, because there's always room for improvement. Continuous stirring wasn't right either. I stop stirring and heating for the last 5 minutes of the mash and recirculate before pumping to the boil kettle.

But that's what I love about this hobby. Getting to play with both the recipe and technical side of brewing and ending up with beer. If your motivation leans more toward the recipe side or simply ending up with beer that you can enjoy and say you made, this is not a road you want to go down. I'm probably the only one on HBT doing this and there are lots of other very good options.

Damn! Must have woken up on the pessimistic side of the bed. Need more coffee.

 

[dyqik]

Yea I realized that as well, so how is one supposed to power the 2500w boil coil? A 30A 110V circuit? That is not very common?

Or are most users just plugging into a 20a circuit and crossing their fingers lol

The 10 gal Boilcoil is a 2250W element, rated at 120V. So it should be 6.4 Ohm and draw 18.75 A on 120V. At 115V or 110V it will draw less current and produce less power (17.2A and 1890W at 110V). It should be perfectly fine on a 20A circuit, as the only load and in continuous operation for less than 3 hours.

Element rated powers are always given at the maximum rated voltage, so 120V or 240V for typical domestic use elements. As well as giving the highest headline figure for marketing purposes, this also means that the maximum rated current (which has to be given at the maximum rated voltage) is consistent with the advertised power output.

I'd guess that the 2250W rating was chosen as the design spec so that there's about a 5% tolerance in actual element resistance available before the actual current draw on 120V becomes too high for a 20A circuit.

 

[Murphys_Law]

How about this simple cheaper 3rd option.... mount one 1500w element in the kettle for boiling with no controller needed and use this $60 1800w induction plate for temp control and heat for mashing? you can also control multiple kettles with it...



http://www.webstaurantstore.com/ava...gygIhHJdm2X0IYsZDB-pCy3SDcLSBSVTsYaAgXe8P8HAQ

Winter in Colorado has made me think about going electric so these threads are timely! So, will this option work to heat/boil ~8G of water in a 16G SS pot?

 

[WScottCross]

Kettle size doesn't matter so much, it's the volume of water you're trying to heat. 8 gallons of water takes about 25 seconds to heat 1 degree F with 3000W and about 50 seconds per degree with 1500W. So 35-40 minutes from 65F to 155F with 3KW and then another 25 minutes to boil.

 

[TexasWine]

So 35-40 minutes from 65F to 155F with 3KW

Last brew day I went 68F to 150F in 26 minutes for an average of over 3 degrees per minute, with 2 x 1500 watt elements. I would have been at 155F in another 2 minutes.

The estimate of 35-40 minutes is too conservative in my experience.

EDIT: These numbers are for 7 gallons.

 

[jcs401]

I was told by high gravity that you can cut the end off of the boil coil (which is I believe a L5-20P plug) and can change it to whatever I want on the 120 volt version. ??? True, false??

 

[augiedoggy]

I was told by high gravity that you can cut the end off of the boil coil (which is I believe a L5-20P plug) and can change it to whatever I want on the 120 volt version. ??? True, false??

as long as its a 20a plug and your using a 20a outlet, yes.... anything less doesnt meet code.

 

[augiedoggy]

Winter in Colorado has made me think about going electric so these threads are timely! So, will this option work to heat/boil ~8G of water in a 16G SS pot?

yes but you may want a wider induction top... 240v really is a better option if you can pull it off Ive seen 3500w induction tops for under $200... actually if I remember right there was someone selling them for $100 for a while.

 

[IslandLizard]

yes but you may want a wider induction top... 240v really is a better option if you can pull it off Ive seen 3500w induction tops for under $200... actually if I remember right there was someone selling them for $100 for a while.

Yes, this unit I mentioned before. They're around $180.

I can boil 13 gallons of wort with it, but have to keep the lid on half way to retain a good solid boil, even at full power. With the lid on half way I still boil off 1-1.5 gallons an hour, so it's fine. Never had any DMS issues. It depends on your kettle how efficient induction heat generation and heat transport is, among other factors.

 

[WScottCross]

Last brew day I went 68F to 150F in 26 minutes for an average of over 3 degrees per minute, with 2 x 1500 watt elements. I would have been at 155F in another 2 minutes.

The estimate of 35-40 minutes is too conservative in my experience.

That was with 8 gallons? I don't know how you got there that fast. My own experience and all the online calculators agree that it should be longer for 8 gallons. You'd need closer to 4000 watts to get 3 degrees/minute with 8 gallons.

 

[TexasWine]

That was with 8 gallons? I don't know how you got there that fast. My own experience and all the online calculators agree that it should be longer for 8 gallons. You'd need closer to 4000 watts to get 3 degrees/minute with 8 gallons.

Sorry! Overlooked the fact that your calculations were with 8 gallons. I had 7 gallons.

 

[WScottCross]

Sorry! Overlooked the fact that your calculations were with 8 gallons. I had 7 gallons.

That makes more sense. 3 deg/minute for 7 gallons is dead on.