110v Recirculating eBIAB 2.5 gallon batches

[jammin]

Hi Sweetcell,

Here is the post I was referring too. Hope it helps. Good luck with the build!

I finally figured out how to adjust power as a percentage in manual mode. This might be trivial to some, but was a little difficult for me to figure out. The manual seemed to leave out a piece of key info.. which is what I want to point out.



To run the PID in manual mode..

Hold SET down until you get into the parameter adjustments.

Click SET until you reach A-M.

Set A-M to 1.

- Now manual mode is enabled.

Click A/M to turn the the unit to manual mode and disengage PID functionality.

Click SET to change the display's set value (SV) from temperature to percentage.

Arrow up or down to adjust power output percentage.

 

[sweetcell]

thank you P-J and jammin - much appreciated!

The pump is independently controlled with its own switch. It does not and is not controlled in any way by the PID.

great, thanks. i feared that the pump was kicked into action at the same time as the element, i.e. when temps drifted below the set-point. glad to hear i was wrong about this.

 

[cmw6300]

I used this schematic minus the pump and every time I power on an element, I trip the breaker. Also, the first time I powered it up, both sides of my resistors started smoking. I have replaced the resistors but I'm still tripping the breaker. I have the resistor runs going to 1 and 2 of the E-Stop switch and the other side is the ground tied to 3 and 4. I have a small jumper wire going between 3 and 4 like in the schematic. I can attach pictures of my wiring if need be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Carlscan26]

http://www.pjmuth.org/beerstuff/images/Auberin-wiring1-a4-2000w-BIAB-120V-E.jpg

I used this schematic minus the pump and every time I power on an element, I trip the breaker. Also, the first time I powered it up, both sides of my resistors started smoking. I have replaced the resistors but I'm still tripping the breaker. I have the resistor runs going to 1 and 2 of the E-Stop switch and the other side is the ground tied to 3 and 4. I have a small jumper wire going between 3 and 4 like in the schematic. I can attach pictures of my wiring if need be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

It sounds like you have the E-stop button pressed and that you are not plugged into GFCI outlets if you are tripping breakers

 

[cmw6300]

I think I may have fried both of my element switches. When I push them neither one of them light up. Also, how long does the Auto Tune feature take? My controller just flashes back and forth from At to A1000 continuously.

 

[BoxBrewer]

I think I may have fried both of my element switches. When I push them neither one of them light up. Also, how long does the Auto Tune feature take? My controller just flashes back and forth from At to A1000 continuously.

Are you sure you have the sensor setting on the correct setting?

 

[cmw6300]

I'm pretty sure I do. I have the Pt100 probe with the deluxe cable. I have the Syn set to 21.

 

[cmw6300]

If there was a step-by-step on how to set up a 2352 PID that would be great. I have the instruction manual but it isn't too user friendly.

 

[jeffmeh]

If there was a step-by-step on how to set up a 2352 PID that would be great. I have the instruction manual but it isn't too user friendly.

In case you have not already found this: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=11

 

[cmw6300]

Well I have changed some of my settings to match what Kal has to no avail. My cool setting was incorrect which I changed to 10 so that is showing the correct reading now. Still, when I input a temperature the elements don't fire. The lights don't come on and I don't get any sound from the contacts. If there is anyone out there that thinks they could help me or if I should order some new switches I would greatly appreciate the input.

 

[P-J]

Do you have a Multimeter? If not, get one. You then use the 'ohm' scale to measure continuity for your wiring. This way you can test that the wiring is correct and also check the switches for their proper action and continuity when switched.

You then use the meter on voltage to check where and how power is being delivered. Without it you are just plain guessing. Something is not right and you need to find out what.

 

[jrb03]

Great build! I am doing something very similar with these modification. 1) No pump switch as I already have a dedicated pump box. 2) A contactor for main power supply as this is going to be eventually upgraded to 240V and I light have a switch for main power.


With the adjustments mentioned above I have a few questions.

1) Can I connect 2 contactors together to tidy up wiring. What I mean by this is the first contactor will switch main power on. Then, as opposed to have having the power go from contactor 1 to the terminal strip then from the terminal strip to contactor 2 to control the element, can I have to power go from contactor 1 directly to contactor 2 then to the element? (I will also have a 14G wire go from contactor 1 to the terminal strip to power everything else.)
sorry not sure I follow

2) I read that on 120V system switching the neutral is not need and does not need to be hooked up to the contractors. Again this would clean up some wiring. Is this true?
light switches only switch the hot, same deal here.

3) Does the orientation of the contactors matter as far as line in and out, or does it just depend on how you wire it up?
doesnt matter.

.

 

[jrb03]

Your Build has been a great service. Thanks
Did you ever change your element connection. ? How did you handle the ground to kettle on your rubber coupling? Your build and several listed in this thread have connections without a J box but some form of rubber or PVC coupling or cap. Those that solder are the only ones I could actually see in the pictures. I would appreciate any info and hopefully pics on your method.

Nope still pressing my luck with the rubber coupling. I do take out my multimeter and ohm out the ground before each brew session. The ground wire is held against the element nut by the couplings clamp, best I can describe it. Soldering is the way to go.

 

[jrb03]

I used this schematic minus the pump and every time I power on an element, I trip the breaker. Also, the first time I powered it up, both sides of my resistors started smoking. I have replaced the resistors but I'm still tripping the breaker. I have the resistor runs going to 1 and 2 of the E-Stop switch and the other side is the ground tied to 3 and 4. I have a small jumper wire going between 3 and 4 like in the schematic. I can attach pictures of my wiring if need be. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like you have major issues with your wiring job. Please start a new thread, I'm sure you'll get more help.

 

[ekjohns]

Okay so I built mine using a 2000W element and a 10.5 gallon polarware pot (Diameter 15") and no dice. Even with insane insulation and lid 1/3 way on I will only get a simmer. Trying to decide now if it is worth sinking another $60 into a small skinny pot or just using this to mash and boil in a different pot with propane...

for those of you using the tall skinny 30 qt pots are you getting a soft or hard boil and what is your boil off rate (could you also please specify your wattage?)

 

[cheesecake]

Im getting a boil with the 2000 watt element and boiloff is .60 of a gallon a hour

 

[ekjohns]

Im getting a boil with the 2000 watt element and boiloff is .60 of a gallon a hour

I am assuming the low boil off is cause the pot has a small diameter? How would you describe your boil? hard soft rolling violent?

 

[jrb03]

Most on here have characterized their boil as not hard, but soft or medium, and are using 1600 or 2000 watt. Not sure how much water your trying to boil in the 10 gallon pot, but your not gonna boil much more than 4 or 4.5 gallons with a 2000 watt element. 3.5 is more ideal. This thread and build is for half batches. Full 5 gallon batch is gonna need 2 110v elements or 240v.

 

[ekjohns]

sorry I should have clarified that I was trying to make 2.5 gallon batches. I was just using my 10 gallon pot cause that is what I have. jrb03 what is your boil off rate? I would like to finish with 3 gallons so I can get 2.5 gallons in the keg after equipment loss. Do you think with 2000W and your pot from academy sports I could get a nice boil?

 

[jrb03]

My boil off rate is about .5 gallon an hour. I bring about 3.25 gallons to a boil after mashing, and finish with about 2.75. My element is 1600 watt, so I see no reason why you couldn't do the same or better with a 2000 watt element. I would double check that everything is working properly.

 

[cheesecake]

I am assuming the low boil off is cause the pot has a small diameter? How would you describe your boil? hard soft rolling violent?

Yeah I get a pretty hard boil and the narrow pot keeps it down

 

[cmw6300]

Well I have finally gotten the bugs worked out of my wiring job :rockin: and was able to get a brew in yesterday on the new rig!! I brewed up a SMaSH with Marris Otter and Citra, can't wait for this thing to get done !!

I opted to leave out the pump and found myself needing to stir the mash occasionally to keep the temps. even. Maybe once tax returns come back I can negotiate with the wife to allow me to add a pump to the system . Overall I think the brew day went well and will see how the beer turns out in a couple of weeks.

The first pic is of heating the strike water and the second is a pic of the mash sitting at mash temp.

 

[jrb03]

Looks great, congrats!

 

[KatCowMan]

So first, big shout out to jrb, PJ, and everyone for this awesome thread. You guys really should go into business together and sell these setups.

I have just finished wiring up my controller, following PJ's diagram for one element. I finally worked up the courage to plug it in and turn it on. Everything seems fine, save for when I turn the element switch on, my contactor makes some crazy rattling noise. I do have it mounted super solid and tight. I haven't found much info online as to the problem. Any insight would help.

(I really should just go find an electrician, but thought I would try here first.)

 

[ekjohns]

Somebody else has reported the same problem with 1 of their contactors and it happened after they dropped it. I order 2 contactors and 1 of them is very quiet the other 1 has a very slight buzz to it. I think that they are just cheap and the quality control is not the best. You could always just try to return it for a new 1 if you purchased on Amazon. I thought about returning mine but it still seems to work fine just been too lazy to do it

 

[jammin]

So first, big shout out to jrb, PJ, and everyone for this awesome thread. You guys really should go into business together and sell these setups.

I have just finished wiring up my controller, following PJ's diagram for one element. I finally worked up the courage to plug it in and turn it on. Everything seems fine, save for when I turn the element switch on, my contactor makes some crazy rattling noise. I do have it mounted super solid and tight. I haven't found much info online as to the problem. Any insight would help.

(I really should just go find an electrician, but thought I would try here first.)

Get a new contractor. It's fried... Trust me, I learned the hard way haha

 

[KatCowMan]

Thanks much guys!

 

[mikeysab]

I think this is going to be my exact setup, except with a 25 gallon pot and basket, and two elements for ten gallon batches.

 

[wyoder]

Great thread!

 

[squidbait]

Great thread and write up! I am venturing into e-brewing, can't wait.

I am a noob when it comes to electrical, and need a quick bit of help.

1. For the e-stop (purchased from Auber), there are 4 terminals. What terminal should I wire the hot, and which should I wire the ground? I currently have the hot on terminal 3 (can obviously be moved).

Also, looking at the wiring diagram an page one, I just don't see how the e-stop works. It looks to me like everything is wired around it. If anyone is bored and cares to educate me, that would be great!

Thanks again to all, especially P-J and jrb for taking the time to help the rest of us!