100% Stainless Heating Element

[jleiii]

Has anyone seen a 4500 watt 240v stainless element? I've been watching lots of posts, and searching online, but the closest I've found is stainless rod and brass base on ebay.

 

[jpalarchio]

Just an update on this...

The vendor said they're checking with their supplier on why the element resistance doesn't seem consistent with what you'd expect for a 5500w/220v element.

 

[KevinP]

I have 20 ohms as well. I can even confirm 20 ohms at 60Hz.
This element took almost twice as long to bring my system up to temp and to perform subsequent steps as my rusted Camco. I wish I didn't throw away that Camco. This really sucks...

 

[Beek]

So are the brewmation ones ULWD? I didn't see on their site? Of course I could've missed it as usual. 60 bucks seems pricey but if they last the life of the brewery, I guess it's worth it. I just can't tell SWMBO.

 

[BSD_Glass]

I have the brewmation ripples in my rig and they are certainly ulwd elements. I dunno about the straight ones.

Cheers.

BSD

 

[cuse88]

Any word from the vendor yet on the wattage of the elements?

 

[GotPushrods]

Any word from the vendor yet on the wattage of the elements?

We know it is 20 ohm, which will tell us the wattage at any voltage we give it. Just don't know why, or if/when there will be a replacement.

@110v = 605 watts
@120v = 720 watts
@220v = 2420 watts
@240v = 2880 watts

 

[thefost]

Bad news. Just talked to them and got an update on this. They said that their elements are actually 2500W and they are about to update the website to reflect this. They said they are kinda bummed and are looking for another manufacturer to get a 5500W model made, but it's not gonna happen any time soon.

So I guess that means if you want an all stainless element, your only options are the pricier ones from brewmation.
I'm curently using an ebay stainless 4000W element with a brass base, which works pretty well and doesn't rust, but I would have liked the 5500W one =/

 

[orangehero]

A smear of silicone caulk on the screw plug works just fine too.

 

[acidrain]

A smear of silicone caulk on the screw plug works just fine too.

No it doesn't.
Neither does adding a zinc anode.
You just can't beat the all stainless elements, but the brass base ones work well too (it's what I use after constant rust issues).

 

[orangehero]

It works perfectly on the two elements that I've done it to.

If you have actually tried it and failed, it's not because it doesn't work.

 

[Bensiff]

No it doesn't.

Neither does adding a zinc anode.

You just can't beat the all stainless elements, but the brass base ones work well too (it's what I use after constant rust issues).

I have to agree with orange, two elements with some NSF high temp silicone have been going a year solid for me without issue. I would prefer a stainless base, but am not willing to triple my cost to get it when silicone is working fine for me.

 

[dstar26t]

Here's one but it's a little pricey. You can order just the element but they have a $200 minimum order. 14" from TC to end of element.

http://brewha.co/products/ulwd-electric-element

I've been doing research for an element for my CIP system that utilizes a slim quarter keg. I only need to heat 3 gallons max so I went with a Heet-o-Matic 305, 1500W. It's supposed to be all stainless and I don't have to build a panel.

 

[TallDan]

I've been doing research for an element for my CIP system that utilizes a slim quarter keg. I only need to heat 3 gallons max so I went with a Heet-o-Matic 305, 1500W. It's supposed to be all stainless and I don't have to build a panel.

I'm interested in hearing more about that one. I don't see a price in there, do you know how much it is?

 

[pizza_man]

No it doesn't.
Neither does adding a zinc anode.
You just can't beat the all stainless elements, but the brass base ones work well too (it's what I use after constant rust issues).

Why not coat the end with some sort of epoxy? The local craft store has a kit that contains clear epoxy and hardener.

 

[geoffey]

Why not coat the end with some sort of epoxy? The local craft store has a kit that contains clear epoxy and hardener.

Food grade epoxy safe up to 212f? I doubt it.


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[acidrain]

If your element is doing well with a simple application of silicone, it is because the zinc coating is still working, and may be thicker than others.
What my experience has been is that some bases don't rust (for awhile) while others rust right away. The zinc coating seems to be thicker on some, and not on others.
The problem I have is that zinc is is easily dissolved into beer. I don't like that.
Once the zinc is gone (where did it go?) the base starts rusting, and then there is little you can do to stop it.

 

[Bobby_M]

No it doesn't.
Neither does adding a zinc anode.
You just can't beat the all stainless elements, but the brass base ones work well too (it's what I use after constant rust issues).

A smear of silicone worked for me. No rust. I'm not sure what went wrong for you. I would definitely rather stainless and I'm really shocked that ALL elements aren't already stainless.

 

[pizza_man]

Food grade epoxy safe up to 212f? I doubt it.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

Actually, food safe would be more correct. To be food grade it would be rated for eating. And come to think of it nothing in my kitchen is "food grade", including my pots and pans. I believe you mean rated for food contact. The plastic lining on the inside of all of your food cans is a epoxy, this includes green beans, tomato sauce, beer.....

 

[geoffey]

Actually, food safe would be more correct. To be food grade it would be rated for eating. And come to think of it nothing in my kitchen is "food grade", including my pots and pans. I believe you mean rated for food contact. The plastic lining on the inside of all of your food cans is a epoxy, this includes green beans, tomato sauce, beer.....

Yep, I stand corrected. Food safe is what I meant. Not thinking the clear epoxy kit is safe for food contact, regardless of what the liners of my food containers are made of. IF the one at the hardware store is food safe I'd be happy to know.


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[pizza_man]

Yep, I stand corrected. Food safe is what I meant. Not thinking the clear epoxy kit is safe for food contact, regardless of what the liners of my food containers are made of. IF the one at the hardware store is food safe I'd be happy to know.


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I found this stuff online and per the company:

"Tested For Aerospace Application Under NASA Low Out Gassing Specifications of less than 1% CVCM. The MAX BOND resin system can be used as an adhesive or coating for direct and indirect food contact under the FDA 21 CFR 175.105 and CFR 175.300."

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-GLUE-...DE-2-GAL-/310412268817?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

[jpalarchio]

I would definitely rather stainless and I'm really shocked that ALL elements aren't already stainless.

I think you're the guy to get these out on the market and in your product line... It looks like a select few people have managed to find manufacturers. The one I found looks to have turned out to be 2500w instead of 5200w but the base itself is obviously no different.

I'd probably be willing to go $40-$50 assuming it's the right length and wattage. I have a Boil Coil for my kettle but need a straight element for my RIMS tube and the Brewmation one is too long. The BrewHa one is $45 but they have a minimum order of $200 so I'd have to get a few people together. I also need to get more details from them on the wattage and length. Maybe you could work a deal with them and resell theirs?

 

[pizza_man]

I think you're the guy to get these out on the market and in your product line... It looks like a select few people have managed to find manufacturers. The one I found looks to have turned out to be 2500w instead of 5200w but the base itself is obviously no different.

I'd probably be willing to go $40-$50 assuming it's the right length and wattage. I have a Boil Coil for my kettle but need a straight element for my RIMS tube and the Brewmation one is too long. The BrewHa one is $45 but they have a minimum order of $200 so I'd have to get a few people together. I also need to get more details from them on the wattage and length. Maybe you could work a deal with them and resell theirs?

Maybe a group order?

 

[ThreeDogsNE]

I think you're the guy to get these out on the market and in your product line... ......

I second that motion. The Camco 5500 watt ripples are $25-30 on Amazon. I'd jump at the chance to go $45 instead of $60 for elements with stainless bases. I need four for me, three for my son.

 

[pizza_man]

I second that motion. The Camco 5500 watt ripples are $25-30 on Amazon. I'd jump at the chance to go $45 instead of $60 for elements with stainless bases. I need four for me, three for my son.

You need enough to order without a group order. Their minimum order is $200 or 5 stainless elements.

 

[KevinP]

Brewha quoted me $45 each with a 3 piece minimum order.
Said the 5500 watts is at 240 volts.
I'd rather see a 5500/220 element but I would bite on the 240.
Seems odd to have a minimum order like that...

 

[dstar26t]

Seems odd to have a minimum order like that...

Yes, I agree. They responded to me with, "We sell the element separately but because we are set up for small package shipping, there is a $200 minimum."

I'm interested in hearing more about that one. I don't see a price in there, do you know how much it is?

Take your pick:

http://www.hantover.com/cgi/hnt.wsc/product.htm?p-item-num=40830&p-callprog=cust-search
http://www.milehidistilling.com/heater-element-with-thermostat-1500w-115v/ <- with video
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1500w-120v-Heating-element-controller-kit-moonshine-boiler-kettle-/190906526996?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c72ea6d14

There is also this really cheap one in what looks like copper and brass. They come in a range of ratings.

 

[spkguitar]

Does anyone have any experience with the one High Gravity sells?

 

[dstar26t]

I would assume that base is not stainless.

 

[KevinP]

Brewha now has an option to buy a single element for $65.
Ugh...