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North Carolina 10 Gallon Electric Brewery System

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I've used it those 2 times a year ago and have not brewed since then. I did just set it up with water this weekend to show someone, but no beer brewing. Still have beer from a year ago, lol. The stout I brewed is turning out to be amazing in that time.
 
I am curious about the price of the control box at time you put the system together. I am looking at options to build a second box to support a 25 gallons boil kettle.
 
I'm going to go ahead and drop the price on this to $3,000. The price will stay there and will be for sale till it sells, I'm not open to negotiating or trading, I know how much it cost to do this plus all the time putting it together. I'm not willing, nor will I be, to lose any more on it. There is nothing wrong with it(still only been used 2 times), I just unfortunately can't be consuming any alcohol for the foreseeable future. Free beer to go with it, lol. I'll be wanting to off load a bunch of other stuff as well, that I can go into more detail to the buyer, free of course.
 
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I've still got it. $3,000

I'll be getting rid of, bottle capper/caps, alot of bottles, a few carboys and some various consumables that can go with it.
 
Dimensions of the table? Would like to measure and see if my 20Ga kettles would fit. As per the specs, it looks as if upgrading to the larger kettles wouldn't be an issue, utilizing all the same equipment etc. Let me know. I'm in Va Beach. Thanks.
 
It's the same setup as theelectricbrewery.com did, but with 10 gallon kettles and 4500w elements. 4500w elements would work fine, just take a bit longer to heat. I went with lower watt to avoid scorching.

In my guess, going to 20 gallon kettles would require some fittings for inlet/outlets, since they are soldered on to the 10 gallon kettles. You could weld/solder fittings like I did (I'm including the pull-through tool if you choose to do that) or go weldless. Everything else should work fine to transfer over.

Stand dimensions are,
64" width
24" depth
36" high at the top of the stand
56" high at the top of the control box
 
It's the same setup as theelectricbrewery.com did, but with 10 gallon kettles and 4500w elements. 4500w elements would work fine, just take a bit longer to heat. I went with lower watt to avoid scorching.

In my guess, going to 20 gallon kettles would require some fittings for inlet/outlets, since they are soldered on to the 10 gallon kettles. You could weld/solder fittings like I did (I'm including the pull-through tool if you choose to do that) or go weldless. Everything else should work fine to transfer over.

Stand dimensions are,
64" width
24" depth
36" high at the top of the stand
56" high at the top of the control box


Got it. Thanks for the dimensions.
 
So you welded TC ferrules onto your kettles, correct? And then ran your elements through them? Are the elements bare elements, 2 wire elements that are hard wired or can I remove them from wiring by unscrewing 2 screws etc? I ask fir upgrading purposes. Thanks.
 
So you welded TC ferrules onto your kettles, correct? And then ran your elements through them? Are the elements bare elements, 2 wire elements that are hard wired or can I remove them from wiring by unscrewing 2 screws etc? I ask fir upgrading purposes. Thanks.

They are soldered in, you drill a whole through the kettle smaller than the fitting then use a tool to pull it through creating a mechanical joint then solder that joint. It is quite easy to do if you are familiar with soldering. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptbulkheadmf.htm
There are some more pictures and directions on there if you'd like to look.

For the elements, I used this kit(https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm) and soldered the fitting on. If you wanted to solder you could use this(same fitting on my kettles) https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15fsf.htm Otherwise, yes 1.5" triclover ferrule would work if you welded in.

Yes, the elements are bare, Stainless Camco 02955. The elements are screwed into those pods above and can be unscrewed(along with the ground and (2) 120v leads).
 
They are soldered in, you drill a whole through the kettle smaller than the fitting then use a tool to pull it through creating a mechanical joint then solder that joint. It is quite easy to do if you are familiar with soldering. https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/ptbulkheadmf.htm
There are some more pictures and directions on there if you'd like to look.

For the elements, I used this kit(https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/etc4s.htm) and soldered the fitting on. If you wanted to solder you could use this(same fitting on my kettles) https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15fsf.htm Otherwise, yes 1.5" triclover ferrule would work if you welded in.

Yes, the elements are bare, Stainless Camco 02955. The elements are screwed into those pods above and can be unscrewed(along with the ground and (2) 120v leads).


Excellent. Thanks for all the information. Going to weigh my options. No chiller, correct?
 
Not a dedicated one, I use the coil in the HLT to run the hot wort back through. While the wort is boiling I throw a bag of ice in the HLT then run the finished wort through that, comes out about 85-90deg. Worked great for me.
 
if it doesnt sell, and you change your mind, of course, I would buy the control panel. It does cost alot to build a system, but you can buy a turnkey brand new setup with 15 gallon kettles from high gravity for 26-2800. My system im picking up now, is all 20 gallong G2s, riptides, etc for 2800 out the door.

Just dont know if i want to do High gravity controller configuration, as i like having independent xontrol of boil hlt and mlt. With PIDS in all 3. Let me know.
 
if it doesnt sell, and you change your mind, of course, I would buy the control panel. It does cost alot to build a system, but you can buy a turnkey brand new setup with 15 gallon kettles from high gravity for 26-2800. My system im picking up now, is all 20 gallong G2s, riptides, etc for 2800 out the door.

Just dont know if i want to do High gravity controller configuration, as i like having independent xontrol of boil hlt and mlt. With PIDS in all 3. Let me know.

Go get that system, it is clearly the much better deal!
 
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