10 Gallon brewers: help me brainstorm

[Coastarine]

...or just share your solution. I'm planning to start making 10 gallon batches. Naturally I need a new kettle and suggestions for that are welcome. I figure I'll need one with a spigot so I don't have to siphon hot wort anymore.

Chilling: I currently have a standard DIY CFC. When I get a significant height difference I can move 5 gallons through it in about 16-17 minutes. Two problems here: 1) I can't lift 10 gallons of wort up to a high shelf like I currently do with 5 and 2) even if I did it would take 30-35 minutes to cool, which might be acceptable.

One idea I've had is to begin running wort through the CFC with the boil still going, then once 5 gallons has been cooled I'll end the boil and raise the kettle to speed it up. One problem with this is irish moss/hop additions in the last 15 mins.

A second idea which could be used in addition to the first or separately is to make another CFC just like my current one, split the wort from the kettle to each chiller and split the cooling water to each chiller. Then each chiller runs to a 5 gallon carboy. Parallel CFC's.

Another idea is an IC to get the wort down to sub-DMS temps, and the CFC to get it to pitching temps with no hurry. I don't really like the idea of having to mess with an IC AND a CFC though.

And finally I could use a pump to push through the CFC faster. I've been trying to steer clear of pumps because I like keeping things simple (gravity) but in this case a pump might be simpler than anything else.

 

[JVD_X]

I use a self priming pump to PULL the wort from the kettle through my chilled. I get 10 to 15 gallons down to 80 degrees within 10 minutes.

 

[Coastarine]

That seems like a good idea to me.

Like this? SELF PRIMING PUMP WITH VARIABLE SPEED @ Williams Brewing

 

[Coastarine]

On the other hand, I could go for the not self-priming pump without variable speed but made to take the heat and I think it has less risk of clogging and I could just use a valve to restrict it: TRANSFER PUMP @ Williams Brewing

AHS has this one too for a few more dollars. They also offer it with polypro NPT.

 

[drunkatuw]

I don't think your twin CFC idea would work because the flow would be limited by the size of the spigot on your kettle. For my 10 gallon batches, I use a water bed pump, same as a wort wizard, but only $4 at a local waterbed store.

The WortWizard from Island Brewing Products

I'm able to pull 10 gallons into 2 carboys in around 20 min, and I don't have to lift the kettle full of hot wort.

 

[Coastarine]

I don't think your twin CFC idea would work because the flow would be limited by the size of the spigot on your kettle. For my 10 gallon batches, I use a water bed pump, same as a wort wizard, but only $4 at a local waterbed store.

The WortWizard from Island Brewing Products

I'm able to pull 10 gallons into 2 carboys in around 20 min, and I don't have to lift the kettle full of hot wort.

That is bad***. Way cheaper too. I guess I could just run the chilling water through that on its way out of the chiller. Thanks!

 

[Chriso]

I'm mid-way through this same jump. My thoughts, which you can agree or disagree with, are this:

1) Kettle. I'm contemplating this one, S/S 60 QT, including lid, for $141. Then, drill the hole on my own, and add a ball valve ($7 at Home Depot) and bulkhead ($10, misc parts). I've never been a fan of kettles from any of the homebrew supply stores because of, well, markup. Nothin' personal against the HBSes.

2) Pump. I know you are thinking Keep It Simple, and I have been doing the same for the past year. But after brewing last weekend with a couple guys that have a pump, it seems SO much easier. I can't wait to buy one. It's next on my list after a new kettle. Then, like JVD_X was saying, PULL the wort through the CFC.... To solve your "How do I cool this much liquid?" problem, recirc the output of the pump back into the kettle until the kettle temp is 100*F, then move the hose to your first fermenter. If you throttle the flow just right, it should come out at (or below!) pitching temp, depending on your local water temp that day. I'm looking for a March pump (like the Williams TRANSFER pump) , then wire it up myself... diaphragm pumps weird me out, but polysulphone food-grade pumps are teh tits. :rockin:

Hope that helps a little?

 

[Gordie]

I gotta back Christo's pump suggestion. I held out for a while and now I wonder what took me so long. If you're going to be moving around 10+ gals of 170 to 212* liquid, for safety's sake, if for no other reason, I'd recommend a March.

 

[Coastarine]

I think I will do that. I liked the wortwizard idea but I use better bottles so it's a no-go. Thanks everyone.

 

[WBC]

Go for the March pump. Priming is not an issue if the pump is well below the vessel. It takes right off pumping once the liquid flows down into the pump (outlet open to the room air). Then turn it on with the outlet ball valve open so is has no restriction on the outlet.

 

[Boerderij_Kabouter]

I used one of my pumps for the first time with my last brew and I can't believe I survive before hand. Even with my totally un-set-up pumping system and no organization yet, it made my life so much easier I could kick myself in the face for not doing it earlier. Pumping is soooooo much easier than gravity it isn't even funny. Get the March pump, it is great for brewing.

 

[Coastarine]

I bought this pump: TRANSFER PUMP @ Williams Brewing

Right now the only problem I'll have to solve is getting the larger size tubing that fits the pump to the smaller size on my CFC. Probably have to make a home depot contraption.

 

[Jaybird]

I have been using that same pump for 2 years now. You made a good buy. I feed all my kettles MLT and BK into a grant that I can use as a hop back etc, and then pump out of that. This system works killer and is really easy to have 2 batches going at the same time. I can brew 2 batches a day and only add about 2 hours to the brewday using 1 pump.
Cheers
JJ

 

[Coastarine]

Right now I'm looking at matching an ID of 1/2" to an OD of 7/16". I'm thinking I can do that with a little silicone sealer or some kind of glue.

 

[Wables]

I can not imagine brewing 10 gallon batches without my March pump. However, I do not use it for wort transfer. I use and IC which gets 11-12 gallons down to pitching temperature in under 20 minutes. I then siphon the wort to the fermenters. I use the March for moving from the MLT to the kettle, and use it to pump water to my IC from a cold water tank during the winter when I can't use my garden hose. I probably could have built a 3 tier instead of a 2 tier and avoided the pump, but I didn't want a 8' tall system.

 

[JVD_X]

That seems like a good idea to me.

Like this? SELF PRIMING PUMP WITH VARIABLE SPEED @ Williams Brewing

That's exactly the pump I use. I pull my wort through a prefilter into through the therminator and into my fermenter. I pitch almost immediately after that. 15-20 minutes from knock-off to pitch.

Alternatively, I put the conical in the freezer down to 34 and let it cool overnight with my yeast starter also in the fridge. Then I dump the junk out the bottom of the conical and pitch my yeast, warming it up to fermentation temps.

 

[jay4e]

For steping down the hose just use plumbers tape and a pipe clamp. Should do 1/16 no problem and be a lot easier to clean and repair.

 

[FSR402]

I just run my wort thru my CFC and into the fermenter. It takes about 20 minutes to get 10 gallons thru and I have never had a problem with DMS. I use no pumps just gravity.

Though, one of these days I will get a pump and I'll build my 50 gall MLT. but until that day comes, gravity it is.

 

[Coastarine]

I'm looking forward to being able to recirculate the wort back into the kettle, then once it is cooled I can whirlpool. I've never kept the break material out of the fermenter before. Does that affect the flavor?

 

[Saccharomyces]

I'm looking forward to being able to recirculate the wort back into the kettle, then once it is cooled I can whirlpool. I've never kept the break material out of the fermenter before. Does that affect the flavor?

I haven't done enough batches either way to have a direct comparison but racking is a lot easier now, I find that without the hops and trub I get super clean beer out of the fermenter without having to leave a bunch behind in the bottom.

I'm planning to hook up my IC as a second stage after a CFC so it can sit in ice. The CFC should get it down to 100*F or so and the second stage easily down to 60*F or lower, so I can recirculate/whirlpool to get to a few degrees below pitching temp in 5-10 min. and then siphon into the fermenters. For my kettle I'm looking at the Blichmann bling bling 20 because I figure my grandchildren will be fighting over who gets it. :fro:

 

[Chriso]

I whirlpool even while hot. It still forms most of a cone of break material, and allows to rack *most* of your wort out without grabbing too much break.

These are from the 09 Barleywine.

 

[Coastarine]

But whirlpooling after chilling will include the cold break.

As far as joining the two sizes of tubing, I found a 1/2" to 3/8" coupler at lowes. The large side is going to need maybe one wrap of teflon and a hose clamp, but that should be easier than trying to clamp the large hose directly onto the smaller.

I'm considering making a prefilter. Plenty of surface area is a must so it won't clog, and that means a paint straining bag or hop bag would be perfect, but it could just get drawn in by the suction. My idea is to liberally perforate a gallon milk jug, pull the paint strainer tight over the jug, and put the hose inside. Rubber band around the bag/hose. If that works well I'll take some pictures and make another thread for it.

I think this is kinda like a hopback.

If I do that, do you think I can take the screen out of the pump? I really don't like the idea of that thing being in there and clogging. I suppose if this did make it redundant, then I probably wouldn't have to worry about it clogging.