1 st mead tomorrow

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solo103

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I'm going to do my first mead tomottor it going to be a sweet mead . I'm going to use 12 lbs honey for 5 gallons and a sweet mead yeast. I brew beer all the time but have never tried a mead. Any input or tips I should know about?
 
Is that 4 gallons water and 12 lbs honey to equal 5 gallons total? If so sounds good. Use SNA and aerate often and well until 1/3 sugar break.
 
12 pounds even in a 5 gallon total volume batch is only going to give you an OG of 1.09, even with the lower alcohol tolerances of the yeasts on the market designated as "sweet mead" which is generally around 11%, this could still end of closer to dry than to a sweet mead
 
What is sna and 1/3 sugar break. When you say aerate often what do you mean by that (like in brewing beer after cooling to 70 we hit it with pure oxygen for a while then pitch but once it starts fermenting we don't want no more oxygen to get into the beer because it could oxidate) does this same principal apply to meads . I was going to heat the water to 185 then add the honey I went going to boil it , should I boil and what is the difference between the two.
 
solo103 said:
I was going to heat the water to 185 then add the honey I went going to boil it , should I boil and what is the difference between the two.
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STOP right there... Do NOT heat the honey above 110F, 100F being even better as a ceiling. IF you do, you'll start to boil off all the more delicate flavors that are present and, more likely than not, you'll not enjoy the mead when it's done. IMO, boiling the must, for mead, should be illegal... :eek:

Also, use a honey that's strong in flavor. You do this so that more will come through in the final product. If you use a honey that's mild, or barely moderate in flavor, you'll have a weak flavored mead as a result.

The 1/3 break is the point where 1/3 of the sugars present have been consumed by the yeast.
SNA= Single Nutrient Addition...

You DO have yeast nutrient on hand, right?? If not, get some DAP (Fermax works too) as well as some yeast energizer.

I would advise going over to the Got Mead forums and look over the newbee section BEFORE you start the batch.

Something else to keep in mind... Making mead is NOT like brewing beer. Even the terms are different (which should give you an idea of how different they are). With mead, you give it care, and feeding, until the 1/3 break and then you leave it the hell alone until it's done fermenting. However long that takes. I have a batch that was fermenting for 3-4 months before it finally stopped. You will want to degas and aerate the must until you hit the 1/3 break. Once fermentation is complete, and the mead has cleared at least some, rack to another vessel. Do not rack if it's not been at least a month since pitching the yeast. You can also go longer before racking (there's one yeast that is an exception to this, but doesn't sound like you'll be using it) without issue. Then let it settle and start to clear again. Check on it 1-3 months later. If you see a decent amount of sediment/lees in the bottom, rack again. Continue until it's extremely clear.

For an 11% ABV mead, I would give it at least 9 months before considering bottling. A full year would be better. If you go less than a year, you might want to stabilize the batch before bottling (to prevent bottle bombs).

I have two 14% meads in vessel right now that I started in [early] December 2011. I've racked them a few times so far, and will probably do so sometime either this month or first half of next. I plan to bottle after a year has passed since they were started. I might even let them go until sometime early next year before they get bottled. This level of patience [IMO] is CRITICAL for getting great mead. IF you try to rush a batch through, don't be surprised if you're not pleased with it.

Something else to consider. Mead, like most good/great wines, gets better with age. My original batches (from fall 2010) are getting better as time passes. I have enough left to be able to sample as I wish. I also bottled part in 375ml [frosted glass] bottles. I used quality corks in the bottles, so that I wouldn't need to worry at all. Pretty much everyone that's tried my mead has great comments about it. If you want a similar experience, then you'll need to give the mead the amount of time it needs to get there.
 
Yeah I'm going to use a quality honey I wanted to use tupelo honey that a friend of a friend makes. (he owns the bee farm). I want heat above 100 , add 14 lbs to 5 gallons of water, yeast nutrient and aerate often until 1/3 of the sugar has been consumed by the yeast. Any other things I should know. Thanks for all the advice
 
solo103 said:
Yeah I'm going to use a quality honey I wanted to use tupelo honey that a friend of a friend makes. (he owns the bee farm). I want heat above 100 , add 14 lbs to 5 gallons of water, yeast nutrient and aerate often until 1/3 of the sugar has been consumed by the yeast. Any other things I should know. Thanks for all the advice
Click to expand...

You're planning to make over 6 gallons of mead??? If not, then you need to cut back on the water by just over a gallon. 12# of honey is 1 gallon of liquid (typically). Use the calculation tool here to get a better idea of what your OG will be for the mixture. Just be sure to subtract the volume of the honey from the total must volume before figuring out how much water you'll add. IF you really are making 6 gallons, then I hope you have a fermenter that's at least 7 gallons in size. If not, have cleaning supplies on hand for when you degas and aerate it. I'd also plan on using a blowoff hose until you hit the 1/3 break.

If it was me, I'd mix the honey into warm[ish] water (IF needed) until the honey was used up. Keep that volume below your target total volume and then simply top off with the balance (so fill TO 5 gallons).

Which yeast were you planning on using?? A "sweet mead" yeast sounds suspiciously like one from either White Labs or Wyeast. While those labs make yeast that are solid for beer, I question their use for mead. I've always used Lalvin Labs yeast strains for my meads. I've used EC-1118 for my 18% meads (the initial batches) as well as D47 for a melomel.
 
Yeah I've been doing some reading in meads and the total volume ( honey and water combine to equal volume) . So I will 12 - 14 lbs honey to 4 gallons of water. ( going to do the math and see where I want my og to start and fg to finish. I want a sweet mead so I want it to start high but not finish to low so that some sugars will be left behind.
 
I was going to use white labs since that's what my home brew shop carries and I want to make it tomorrow so I don't want to have to order online this time. I brew beer a lot and use white labs and love their yeast but like I said I'm a newbie to meads and I know their not like beer so I will def check out the yeast you suggested.
 
solo103 said:
I was going to use white labs since that's what my home brew shop carries and I want to make it tomorrow so I don't want to have to order online this time. I brew beer a lot and use white labs and love their yeast but like I said I'm a newbie to meads and I know their not like beer so I will def check out the yeast you suggested.
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Personally, I like to stay away from the Sweet Mead Yeasts. Wine yeasts is what I use. For beginiers I would recomend Lavin D47, take care that the temp in your ferment room doesn't get above 70. If you are planing on going over 70 degrees F then I would go with Lavin 71B, that has a temp tolerance of up to about 82 but with Lavin 71B I would make sure to rack it off the primary when the Primary is done and not let it sit. For a 5 gal batch I would use 2 packets. Both should be found in your LHBS.

I would heat the water up to just hot enough to melt the honey with the water and no more. It's a judgment call but I agree not over 100. Then let the mix cool down to under 98. It would be best if it cools down to at least 80 but again that's a judment call.

The one thing that I would do is get 1 oz of oak cubes or chips and a hops bag. Lightly toasted oak would be good for beginers. When it is getting to the clearing point drop that in for 3-5 weeks. It will really improve it.

And once clear enough to read through you can bulk age (that is just rack it and leave it alone) for 6-8 months or you can bottle age (sometimes called bottle conditioning) for the same time. I would go closer to a year if you can.

Wish I could get that honey type cheaply. In the market for more honey here in about a weeks time. But alas in Denver it's a bit difficult.

Hope it turns out well.
Matris
 
I like the oak idea but in this mead I'm going for a "sweet heat" . I'm going to put a little bit of scotch bonett peppers (Jamaicas) habenaro to add a little heat to the sweet
 
I live in FL so the temp in the room I'm fermenting in is about 78 to 80 so I have to go with a yeast that likes that temp since I don't have a temp controled fermentation area yet.
 
solo103 said:
I was going to use white labs since that's what my home brew shop carries and I want to make it tomorrow so I don't want to have to order online this time.
Click to expand...

With either White labs or the Wyeast sweet mead strains you'll find they need to be babied some so you will want to keep up with the daily aeration (few times a day actually) and staggered nutrients, both can be very finicky and like to become stuck.

Here is a link on the lalvin strains for future refernce, you'll find they work great, very consistant and price wise much less expensive than the liquid yeasts. for mead they are some of the best and usually available at most home brew stores (I used liquid sweet mead yeast for my first ever batch too, learned the hard way how tough they can be to work with)

http://www.lalvinyeast.com/strains.asp#

Here is another link on a variety of wine yeasts, just some good info.

http://www.winemakermag.com/guide/yeast



Golddiggie said:
I've used EC-1118 for my 18% meads (the initial batches)
Click to expand...

Golddiggie, question for you just for my own curiosity, what about the 1118 do you like better than 1116?
 
So here is what I went with. Couldn't get the tupelo so I used
4.5 gallons spring water 1 gallon wildflower honey
White labs sweet mead yeast
1 tab servomyces
1 tap fermax yeast nutrient

Heated water to 100 degree and added honey stirred for 15 -20 min added nutrients stirred for a couple min then cooled to 80 and pitched yeast. Oxygenated

Going to shake (oxygenate) about 2 times a day till 1/3 sugar break and add energizers
Sound ok?
 
I would have added the full dose of nutrients at the start. Which means the per gallon amount of both fermax and yeast energizer (you're short right now).

Did you take an OG reading after mixed? Also, I've never had anything bad happen by chilling the must/sort to below the fermenting temperature. I do hope that the yeast you used is OK with being closer to 90F, since it can go up by a full 10F once fermentation starts. If you don't have a fermometer on the vessel yet, get one ASAP.
 
Did you, by chance, pitch the White Labs WLP720 yeast?? IF you did, the only ways you'll get it to finish sweet is to stabilize it once it's finished eating all the fermentable sugars in the must you made (the yeast can/will go to 15%) and then back sweeten it. Or let it go to complete with the must as it sits, then add honey, letting it ferment out until it doesn't ferment when you add more. Also, with a low flocculation rating, don't expect it to clear that quickly. You'll also need more aging time since it's listed optimum fermentation temp is 70-75F.

If you went with the Wyeast strain, you're in slightly better shape in that it will stop at about 11% (could go a bit higher, but not by much, maybe to 12%). Still, the recommended/optimum fermentation temperature is listed as 65-75F.

Fermenting 5F+ over the recommended high end of a yeast can give you different flavors as well as esters (often making it taste 'hot').

With all that's going on with your first batch, I'd plan on it not going to bottle for at least a year, possibly longer (1.5-2 years could be required). Even then, it might not be a pleasure to drink for even longer.

Next time, make the mead when you can maintain lower temps for it. Or get/make a fermentation chamber (probably a much better idea).
 
Yeah I plan on letting it age around a year . I'm going to be patient and take my time.
I did go with the white labs sweet mead yeast.
 
Well, you're in for more work then... Fully expect it to ferment to .998, or below (it can happen). Even then, the yeast won't be at it's tolerance. If you stabilize it then (at ~13.5% or so) you can add a bit of honey at a time, give it some time to blend in, sample and then see if it's close to where you want it. I advise stopping before you hit the level you want. I'd also give it a solid month in bulk from when you hit the final point in back-sweetening to make sure it's not fermenting again.
 
solo103 said:
It is getting down to 75 so it will.ferment at the high end of the yeast temp.
Click to expand...

Actually, it will probably increase to 5-10F above ambient once fermentation kicks in. So if you can only get it to 75F before then, you'll hit 80-85F once it's in full swing. When they list fermentation temp, they're talking about the temperature of the must/wort, NOT ambient temperatures.
 
So should I add dome more honey later . And what can be done to stop the fermentation when I hit my target
 
You can add more honey later. If you want to stop the yeast before then you'll need to hit it with Potassium Metabisulphate (Campden tablets) and then Postassium Sorbate. The Campden stops the yeast (kills it) and the Pot Sorbate prevents new reactions from happening (yeasties and such). I believe one tablet per gallon (as on the bottle of Campden) should be enough to kill the yeast (unless someone recommends a higher dosage). Then around 3/4tsp of Pot. Sorbate per gallon to treat. I know there's a more accurate weight method, but I'd have to hunt for it. Since I'm not doing that right now, it's not so important.

From what I recall, you hit it with the Campden, let it go 12-24 hours, then hit it with the Pot. Sorbate. Once that's done, give it a day or two and then start adding the honey you want. I would use the Got Mead calculator to figure out how much to add to increase it by the amount of points you wish. I would also advise not trying to go to that target in one step. Make it at least two steps, just to CYA... :D
 
Thanks everybody I'm going to keep posted what's going on with it.
Pitched at 4:40 going to oxygenate (shake) agian when I get home around 12. I'll keep posted on my gravity readings and such. :) buzzed on flemish sours!
 
solo103 said:
Does anybody know what the 1/3 sugar break would be on a 1.099 og. Or a calculator for it
Click to expand...

It's just math...

You take the OG, minus estimated FG (figure it will go to dry if the yeast tolerance is high enough) then divide by 3. So, if it's going to go to .988 (yeast tolerance of 15%, so it could go that low, or lower), means you have .034 points from OG to eat through before you hit the 1/3 break. SO, when it hits 1.065. you're at the 1/3 break point. You don't add any more nutrient, degas or aerate beyond that point. From there on, it's 100% hands-off.
 
Yeah I was wondering what the formula was. Thanks man that was well explained. So don't add any energizer at the 1/3 break? Just aerate agian and leave alone?
 
You can add any remaining nutrients needed for the batch, but then it's 100% hands off. Usually there's one last degas and aeration, but that's it. If you're within a few points of the number, that's ok. Just don't go 10 points under it (so don't wait for 1.055 to come around).

I typically add ALL the nutrients needed at the start and then just degas/aerate as/if needed. Last batches I gave plenty of O2 to them at the start, as well as nutrients (Fermax and yeast energizer) and then left them alone. The Wyeast beer nutrient isn't really sufficient for mead, since it's missing the levels of nutrients needed. I found that out when I used it for my initial batches. You have to use significantly more of the Wyeast nutrient than you would Fermax, DAP and yeast energizer.
 
I used white land servomyces (1 tab and a teaspoon of fermax at the beginning and Aerated the hell out if it. So ill add some energizer aerate and leave alone. I hope it dosent finish to low because I want it to be sweet not dry. I wish I would have used 4 more lbs
 
I've never used the tabs, just the recommended dosages of Fermax (1tsp/gallon of must), energizer (1/2 tsp/gallon of must) and/or DAP...

IMO the tabs are not worth it since there's simply no way for them to contain enough for a full batch of mead (even 1 tab per gallon would be short IMO).

Next time, just use Fermax and Yeast Energizer as per instructions and you won't worry.

Also, using a yeast that will do what you want helps. As does formulating with a high enough OG so that it won't finish dry. Your next batch should go smoother. :drunk:
 
Yeah. I should have used more honey. Lol. Im going to put some TLC in to it so i hope it turns out grand
 
Fermenting a little high 73 on the temp strip so probably 80. Going to add energizer either tomorrow or wed since I'm so close to the 1/3 break. Does this sound like a decent attenuation so far. I know its a little warm for the yeast but just wondering.
 
Check the gravity first. Better to add it above the break than below it. If you're more than about 5 gravity points past the break leave it alone.
 

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