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1 Gallon tiny partial mashes

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Will probably use wheat DME and see where that gets me.
Mind, wheat DME is typically 50-65% wheat, the balance (35-50%) made up of 2-row or pale.

You'll need to hold the temps between 146F and 160F when mashing
Let me add, the mash temp used influences fermentability of the wort. The higher the mash temp (within the range, above), the less fermentable, but it can be quite subtle, and depends on the method(s) used.

And yes, a prewarmed but turned off oven will help keep your mash pot at the correct temps. A little extra warming halfway through the hour may be necessary, but 2 degrees lower or higher doesn't have all that much impact on the wort fermentability.

I did mini/partial mashes for a long time, using a 2 gallon pot in the warm oven, until I wanted to brew a Witbier, requiring at least 50% raw (flaked) wheat. o_O
That's when I built the 54 qt cooler mash tun and went all-grain.

You could mash a larger amount, say enough for 3-5 gallons of wort, using just Pale or 2-row malt (or wheat or so). Then split the wort into 1-gallon batches, where you differentiate. Such as using different hops for each sub-batch. Or add a potion of different steeped malts to them, such as C10, C20, C40, C60, C80, C120, etc.
 
If I were doing a 1 gallon batch, I wouldn’t mess around with water profiles

Here's the reason why one might want to make water adjustments based on style.
elsewhere-someone-said said:
At the 2007 National Homebrewers Conference, John Palmer presented on an experiment (link) he performed that demonstrated how different water profiles impact beer.

I earlier in this topic, I posted a link to an article that provides a simple approach for making those adjustments.

Basic water adjustments, even for one gallon batches, is a solved problem.
 
I have a pair of jewelry scales (50g capacity/ 0.001g resolution) which I find is the range/accuracy needed for working with small batches. I also have a 100g /0.01g scale, but it rarely gets used.
Have you compared the weighing results of the 2 scales?

I'd say the 0.01g resolution of the 100 g scale is plenty precise for water minerals, even in a sub-1 gallon batch. The 100 gram mini-scale is also easier/faster to use.
For example, in a 5.5 gallon batch, 0.7 gram Gypsum would convert to 0.127g in a 1 gallon batch. The difference between 0.12 and 0.13 gram is undetectable in a gallon of beer.
 
Have you compared the weighing results of the 2 scales?
Yes. Each provides the 'same' result for very small items.

Previously, I had a 100g/0.01g scale (different model than one suggested) and it had problems weighing small amounts accurately. I don't have that scale (or it's problems) any more. FWIW: It looks like my current 100g/0.01g scale is able to weight smaller amounts accurately - but I only use it for larger amounts.
 
When I was starting and only doing extract, I purchased a Brooklyn Brew Shop 1 gallon dubbel kit. It was all grain and used a very simple mashing technique, very similar to brew in a bag. I was very skeptical that the process would actually work and convert grains to fermentable sugar. To my amazement, the beer finished at 6.9% ABV and tasted great.

You can see the process here and easily replicate it:
https://brooklynbrewshop.com/pages/instructions-bourbon-dubbel
Whatever you do, keep brewing! And move to all grain as soon as you're comfortable, it truly makes better beer and if I can do it, literally anybody can.

CHEERS!
 
I believe on points per dollar basis, malted barley is cheaper than LME of DME. If that us the case, I would use as much malted barley as my base malt as practical for 1 gallon batches. If some variables make DME or LME easier to add to the recipe, I would have no problem topping off my beer with DME or LME to get to my desired OG.

But if you are steeping or martial mashing anyway, go with as much base malt as you can.
 
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