1 Gallon cider help

[supermarket]

I recently started a 1 gallon batch of cider. I bought a 1 gallon glass jug of fresh apple juice (no preservatives) and added 1 cup of brown sugar, some raisins, and yeast. It began bubbling nicely in under 6 hours (didn't keep a super close watch). Now this is where I'm stuck. I don't know how to proceed.

I've tried doing multiple Google searches but nothing seems to answer my question, and I get many different results.

Currently I have it in a closet with an approximate temperature of 18-20ºC (64-68ºF). I would like to bottle it when the time is ready (no idea when that is) and I would like to have a mildly dry to semi sweet cider, carbonated, not still.

If anyone could walk me through the next steps it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 

[mattmmille]

I recently started a 1 gallon batch of cider. I bought a 1 gallon glass jug of fresh apple juice (no preservatives) and added 1 cup of brown sugar, some raisins, and yeast. It began bubbling nicely in under 6 hours (didn't keep a super close watch). Now this is where I'm stuck. I don't know how to proceed.

I've tried doing multiple Google searches but nothing seems to answer my question, and I get many different results.

Currently I have it in a closet with an approximate temperature of 18-20ºC (64-68ºF). I would like to bottle it when the time is ready (no idea when that is) and I would like to have a mildly dry to semi sweet cider, carbonated, not still.

If anyone could walk me through the next steps it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

First, some things to note for getting started in the future: if you are using fresh juice, you might want to consider adding a crushed Campden tablet per gallon (to kill off wild yeasts/bacteria), some yeast nutrient and some pectic enzyme, 24 hours before you pitch the yeast. You can research those...I won't waste time on it here.

I have never added raisins (yet)...some fear of infection, if they were not boiled, soaked for days in alcohol, or sanitized some other way.

Yeast will be a big factor in how dry it goes...the character of the yeast and its alcohol tolerance. What did you use? And did you check the specific gravity before you pitched the yeast? This will give you the starting number to determine the final alcohol amount and later readings will confirm when fermentation is done. In a single gallon, you hate to give up those hydrometer sample amounts, I know.With such a small investment, I sometimes kind of wing it, but don't rush it!

Fermentation will probably be done in a week or ten days. Then you want to rack it to another container and leave the sediment (including the raisins) in the bottom of the original container. For cider, I usually do this and let it settle until it clears and then rack it again. Then, it can sit, literally for months, to finish off-gasing and condition. Now, if there isn't enough residual sugar to restart fermentation, you could bottle it for a still product. Pasteurizing would ensure no further fermentation. I had some still cider that I opened after several months and it was carbed...not in danger of blowing, but carbed.

I have never backsweetened...I don't like adding frozen apple juice concentrate from China and Argentina. Others can make recommendations there.

Carbing is the trickiest part. You prime the cider, just like you would beer. Then you need to have a test bottle or two you plan to open to check the carb. Unlike beer, the carb, in my experience, can be done in 24 to 36 hours. Some advise using a plastic soda bottle and go by how hard the bottle gets. Then you can cold crash the cider and keep it refrigerated, or you can pasteurize it. Whatever you do, do NOT pasteurize overcarbed bottles or leave at room temperature without pasteurizing. And if you take the cold crashed ones out of the fridge, don't leave them out more than a couple of hours. I don't know your level of experience and I don't want to sound condescending, but this *can* get a little dangerous, so I want to make sure you understand the risks of creating "bottle bombs". Also, I have pasteurized small batches several times with just a couple bottles breaking/popping, but there are safety steps that can reduce the risk of injury substantially (I've have never been injured.) I highly recommend that you read through the stovetop pasteurization thread...there's a lot there, but make sure you understand the steps, the experiences of others, and the most recent updates.

You might want to consider doing a still batch or two for experience and then move on to carbonating. I also do some small batches that I call "Super Easy Cider"...I start with commercial cider that comes in glass jugs, pasteurized, but no additives. I don't have to add Campden (sulfites) and all I do is add yeast (usually Safelle s-04 dry yeast) and an airlock. Ferment it out and bottle it at a specific gravity reading of around 1.005 to 1.008, rack it, let it clear and bottle it. That leaves just enough sugar for that yeast to carb it without creating bombs.

That's a lot of info...sorry! Good luck! Experience is a great teacher...don't be intimidated. Read, ask questions and see if there's anybody at your local home brew shop that's into cider and can help advise you.

 

[supermarket]

Thank you! That helps, I think I will try to rack and bottle-and hope for the best. Didn't take any gravity readings, because yes 1 gallon isn't much to spare.

 

[MarkKF]

I've never used raisins. But I've used Craisins several times. I just rinse them in starsan, drain then run them thru the food processor. Never had an infection. My latest batch had no added sugar and the ABV is less than 6%.

 

[Maylar]

Your questions on how to proceed are complicated - you need to make some decisions. This reference is what got me started: http://www.howtomakehardcider.com/

 

[DaMonkey]

I've never used raisins. But I've used Craisins several times. I just rinse them in starsan, drain then run them thru the food processor. Never had an infection. My latest batch had no added sugar and the ABV is less than 6%.

You do not need to sanitize the craisins or raisins, that's just nuts. Why would you use craisins instead of raisins? Cranberries do have tannin but I couldn't determine if it was in the skin or not. So if its in the juice then craisins would not help with adding tannin. Grape skin on the other hand is high in tannin.

 

[DaMonkey]

I have never added raisins (yet)...some fear of infection, if they were not boiled, soaked for days in alcohol, or sanitized some other way.

You apparently never heard of wine before:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wine

 

[bernardsmith]

Thank you! That helps, I think I will try to rack and bottle-and hope for the best. Didn't take any gravity readings, because yes 1 gallon isn't much to spare.

If you sanitize your hydrometer and the cylinder with K-meta and you draw off enough cider to measure the gravity the K-meta will inhibit the development of any unwanted bacteria or yeasts. I have never had any problem returning samples I have drawn back to the carboy. Cider ain't beer.

 

[DaMonkey]

If anyone could walk me through the next steps it would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

It needs to sit in the primary for at least 2 weeks. Just watch your airlock and when it stops bubbling you should be OK. If you had a hydrometer you would take a reading here to ensure the sugar has fermented out. Then it should sit in your secondary for at minimum 2 weeks (but can sit for much longer) then you can bottle age or drink.

Its unlikely that there will be any sugar left typically its all fermented out. If there is any sugar left then you did something wrong or your yeast stalled because you did something wrong.

You can sweeten and carbonate but it requires pasteurizing. I suggest not doing this your first time. You should either carbonate by sugar priming. Or sweeten by killing the yeast with sulfites and sorbate and then adding sugar right before bottling.

If you are carbonating beware of bottle bombs.

 

[mattmmille]

If you sanitize your hydrometer and the cylinder with K-meta and you draw off enough cider to measure the gravity the K-meta will inhibit the development of any unwanted bacteria or yeasts. I have never had any problem returning samples I have drawn back to the carboy. Cider ain't beer.

That's true...and I won't say I've never done it (I use StarSan), but I would never recommend it to someone just starting. With a cheap 1 gallon batch, I'll risk it sometimes, but not with a bigger batch.

@DaMonkey Wine...wine...sounds familiar. Of course, trying to make a specific point by referencing the whole Wiki article on wine is kind of silly. Was there something about raisins and how they don't need to be sanitized in that article? I wouldn't know...I got bored after about 30 seconds of unrelated reading and then unsuccessfully scanning for raisin references. In absence of any, I fall back on general safety rules for adding adjuncts...if you add anything to your fermentation, sanitize it, to prevent any yeast or bacteria on the adjunct from overpowering your desired yeast or introducing an infection. Is there some natural disinfectant property in raisins? Not that I've heard of.

 

[DaMonkey]

@DaMonkey Wine...wine...sounds familiar. Of course, trying to make a specific point by referencing the whole Wiki article on wine is kind of silly. Was there something about raisins and how they don't need to be sanitized in that article? I wouldn't know...I got bored after about 30 seconds of unrelated reading and then unsuccessfully scanning for raisin references. In absence of any, I fall back on general safety rules for adding adjuncts...if you add anything to your fermentation, sanitize it, to prevent any yeast or bacteria on the adjunct from overpowering your desired yeast or introducing an infection. Is there some natural disinfectant property in raisins? Not that I've heard of.

Do you sanitize grapes before you make wine? No. Grapes are raisins, so whats the the difference with sanitation? There isn't one. You should rinse them off if you want to, I don't care enough.

There is a reason you add sulfites and let your cider sit for 24 hours and its to kill wild yeast and bacteria. If you are dropping them in the secondary a decently high alcohol level will also do the trick.

There isn't anything to fear. I referenced wine because to me you are basically saying you are afraid of juicing grapes due to fear of an infection, while making wine.

 

[mattmmille]

Do you sanitize grapes before you make wine? No. Grapes are raisins, so whats the the difference with sanitation? There isn't one. You should rinse them off if you want to, I don't care enough.

There is a reason you add sulfites and let your cider sit for 24 hours and its to kill wild yeast and bacteria. If you are dropping them in the secondary a decently high alcohol level will also do the trick.

There isn't anything to fear. I referenced wine because to me you are basically saying you are afraid of juicing grapes due to fear of an infection, while making wine.

But, you ARE adding sulfites to the fruit/juice. And, at what alcohol level are your bacteria/unwanted yeasts going to be killed off, if you're adding to secondary? Is your preferred yeast still going? What if the alcohol tolerance of the bacteria/unwanted yeast is higher than the pitched yeast? Not worth the risk, in my opinion. But it IS just my opinion. I tend to be a sanitation freak.

 

[MarkKF]

You do not need to sanitize the craisins or raisins, that's just nuts. Why would you use craisins instead of raisins?

Really, cuz I have no idea what bacteria or molds are on the skin.

I use craisins because I love the tart flavor they give. Like cranberry wine.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424382291.193042.jpg