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1/2 Gallon canning jar HOP BACK and RANDALL from Jaybird

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I really want this but am trying to understand if it will work with my current process which relies heavily on pellet hops. Please bear with long question.

I recirculate my boil kettle during last 10 minutes of boil to sanitize my pump/lines and immersion chiller. Normally there is a pellet hop and whirlfloc addition at 10 minutes. At flameout I start the IC and drop kettle temperature to about 190 and then turn off IC and add whirlpool hops which could be 6-12 oz in a 10 gallon IPA (I might have as much as 16 oz pellet hops in some beers but usually closer to 8 in the kettle. I then recirculate with no flame for 30 minutes or so, then turn on the IC and chill. I keep pumping for a bit after removing the IC and may let the kettle settle for a few minutes but probably half my trub and kettle hops ends up in the fermentor.

What I imaging I would like to do with this hopback is replace a portion of my whirlpool addition with leaf hops in the hopback and recirculate through the hopback during the whirlpool and chilling cycle. I am imagining I will get good use of the leaf hops and that they would form a filter bed to remove the kettle hops and some trub from the kettle.

Or would it plug almost instantly and leave me with a horrible mess? I guess what I am asking is are hop backs really only meant for people that use plate chillers.


Great questions!

Hop backs are not ONLY for people who use plate chillers at all. I have been using a grant/hop back for 12+ years and I JUST started using a plate chiller about 6 months ago or so.

I think a hop back is exactly what you need for filtering. Using whole hops as the filter is exactly their design. Either that or a False Bottom in your boil kettle. Now I am not sure and really have no way of knowing if you will plug it up with a slug of pellets as I don't know what the absolute limits are or how much your going to run in there. I have crammed 6 oz of hops in this and ran water through it at full flow and it never budged or slowed at all. I am doing a pellet hops run today to see how that works with boiling hot water. I will keep you posted for sure.

Cheers
Jay
 
Great questions!

Hop backs are not ONLY for people who use plate chillers at all. I have been using a grant/hop back for 12+ years and I JUST started using a plate chiller about 6 months ago or so.

I think a hop back is exactly what you need for filtering. Using whole hops as the filter is exactly their design. Either that or a False Bottom in your boil kettle. Now I am not sure and really have no way of knowing if you will plug it up with a slug of pellets as I don't know what the absolute limits are or how much your going to run in there. I have crammed 6 oz of hops in this and ran water through it at full flow and it never budged or slowed at all. I am doing a pellet hops run today to see how that works with boiling hot water. I will keep you posted for sure.

Cheers
Jay

Thanks looking forward to the results!
I also noticed you have better selection of leaf hops than just about anybody so solved my other problem...
 
http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Pre-Order-Sale-Items-NorCal-Brewing-Solutions.html

Just put the "Randall" with the ball locks as a "pre order" We are out of 1 component and wont have them for several days. So if you want to get your orders in they will ship as soon as the component gets here.

Cheers
Jay


I didn't see the order for the ball locks when I bought mine, think I would have gone that route if I saw it.

How were the ball locks disconnects attached to the tubes coming out? Do you have a thread piece coming out on those, or is there a threaded sleeve to put on?


I'm not sure if it's just me, but navigating your site seems to be difficult...especially when I'm looking for your manufactured stuff. It's like going to a restaurant and you get hit with 204 different dishes that they serve. Just seems cluttered and difficult to me. Please, no offense meant...but I've thought this several times and figured I tell you.

Merry Christmas
 
Ok so I just got done doing a whole/pellet hops test. I used 3 oz of pellet hops and 3 oz of whole hops. The filter does have its limitations. It filtered them VERY well but the flow started to decrease after about 10 min. It pushed the pellet hops up to the whole hops and caused a little flow restriction. I am going to add upper holes to the inlet tubes to see if that helps keep things moving around.

The Hop Back using all whole hops worked amazing! As it did for the Randall. But I am bound to get this to work with at least SOME pellet hops.

More to come.

Cheers
Jay
 
Ok so I just got done doing a whole/pellet hops test. I used 3 oz of pellet hops and 3 oz of whole hops. The filter does have its limitations. It filtered them VERY well but the flow started to decrease after about 10 min. It pushed the pellet hops up to the whole hops and caused a little flow restriction. I am going to add upper holes to the inlet tubes to see if that helps keep things moving around.

The Hop Back using all whole hops worked amazing! As it did for the Randall. But I am bound to get this to work with at least SOME pellet hops.

More to come.

Cheers
Jay

Are you starting with the pellet hops in the kettle or in the hop back?
 
You are going to make me poor with all these new items. After Christmas hopefully I can place a order for some more of the jaybird goodies....
Awesome stuff
 
You are going to make me poor with all these new items. After Christmas hopefully I can place a order for some more of the jaybird goodies....
Awesome stuff

Well that "is" my EVIL PLAN! LOL

Thanks brother! This think is sofa king killer! Super happy with the way it turned out!

Cheers
Jay
 
I would add a second vote for a video. I'm not sure that I fully understand how this would work and what it could do for me and a video would be worth a thousand words. So if you had time that would be awesome!!
 
I have the same question and will pre-order the Randall version if the ball locks are removable for use a the hop back. I assume they are, even if just for cleaning or repairing the poppet.

Sorry guys missed that.
Yes for sure they are removable. The keg post is welded to the tubes and then you screw on the ball lock connections you want. We are having to Teflon the threads for a better seal as the gasket doesn't seem to do the 100% job we want and there is no way to add a dip tube with an o'ring. So I am just doing a quick Teflon wrap and all is good.

Cheers
Jay
 
Sorry guys missed that.
Yes for sure they are removable. The keg post is welded to the tubes and then you screw on the ball lock connections you want. We are having to Teflon the threads for a better seal as the gasket doesn't seem to do the 100% job we want and there is no way to add a dip tube with an o'ring. So I am just doing a quick Teflon wrap and all is good.

Cheers
Jay

Can you post a picture with the ball lock removed?
 
Sorry guys missed that.
Yes for sure they are removable. The keg post is welded to the tubes and then you screw on the ball lock connections you want. We are having to Teflon the threads for a better seal as the gasket doesn't seem to do the 100% job we want and there is no way to add a dip tube with an o'ring. So I am just doing a quick Teflon wrap and all is good.

Cheers
Jay

Great, thank you. Pre-order placed.
 
Can you post a picture with the ball lock removed?

Here ya go buddy!

Cheers
Jay

3050-Wide-Mouth-Canning-Jar-Randall-Locks-Off.jpg
 
I think it would be cool if somehow the ball lock connectors were attached to the tubes with compression fittings instead of being welded. I am not sure that is possible but if it is then the same filter could be used as a hop back (by taking them off so tubing could fit over the tubes) and a Randall (with the fittings on). Two uses with the same filter. Just a thought.
 
I think it would be cool if somehow the ball lock connectors were attached to the tubes with compression fittings instead of being welded. I am not sure that is possible but if it is then the same filter could be used as a hop back (by taking them off so tubing could fit over the tubes) and a Randall (with the fittings on). Two uses with the same filter. Just a thought.

Its already done that way as well


http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Canning-Jar-Hop-Filter-Kit-64-Ounce.html


Cheers
Jay

3022-Wide-Mouth-Canning-Jar-Hop-Filter-Closeup.jpg


3022-Wide-Mouth-Canning-Jar-Hop-Filter #1.jpg
 
I think it would be cool if somehow the ball lock connectors were attached to the tubes with compression fittings instead of being welded. I am not sure that is possible but if it is then the same filter could be used as a hop back (by taking them off so tubing could fit over the tubes) and a Randall (with the fittings on). Two uses with the same filter. Just a thought.

Sorry I kind of missed EXACTLY what you were saying.
A 1/2" Compression can be attached to the picture above and then convert from there to ball lock. Not exactly simple but doable.

Cheers
Jay
 
I got mine but haven't tested it yet. I had another thought though. I just did a pilsner and don't want to add a whole lot of extra hop character just a touch but it would also be nice to not push the yeast that settled out in the keg to the next keg. What if you packed it with rice hulls after putting in the hops? I know yeast are tiny but if the flow was slow enough toward the end could it knock out the majority of it?

Also how much pressure do these hold? If I do a keg to keg transfer at 14psig will it blow once the second keg is full and starts to pressurize?

I'll try to take some pics when I finally try it out. You gotta stop making cool $h!t I'm not made out of money!
 
I got mine but haven't tested it yet. I had another thought though. I just did a pilsner and don't want to add a whole lot of extra hop character just a touch but it would also be nice to not push the yeast that settled out in the keg to the next keg. What if you packed it with rice hulls after putting in the hops? I know yeast are tiny but if the flow was slow enough toward the end could it knock out the majority of it?

Also how much pressure do these hold? If I do a keg to keg transfer at 14psig will it blow once the second keg is full and starts to pressurize?

I'll try to take some pics when I finally try it out. You gotta stop making cool $h!t I'm not made out of money!

Hmm rice hulls to filter yeast? You got me there buddy! I think you are on to something though I think if the transfer was slow enough you may be onto something.
As for the pressure. #1 why would you be at 14 PSI during transfer? #2 I am not sure but if I was to guess 14-15 psi would be a snap. I really dont "THINK" you would run into trouble till you hit 20+ psi.

I think a "lets blow something up" test is in order. :D:D:D

Cheers
Jay
 
I was also thinking maybe rubber band a coffee filter to the in tube. I serve at 14psig since my elevation is 4500ft. I guess I could turn the regulator down but I typically like to leave it alone. The hulls may not exactly filter the yeast but might slow things down enough that when I see the color change and hear the source keg bubble I could rapidly disconnect the receiving keg. Hence the Randall would rapidly pressurize to whatever the push pressure is.
 
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