Can't drill into my concord

mendozer · Jun 19, 2014

Just got my pot today and I can't for the life of me get a pilot hole started. I installed my sight class on my keg just fine. I made the pilot with my small (7/64?) cobalt bit then used the step bit. took me maybe 5 minutes in total.

I can't even make a pilot hole in this thing. Denting it took forever (nail didn't work, punch didn't work, finally a stainless screw kinda worked). Since then the hole hasn't changed much. It's been like an hour and I'm fricken tired.

any Ideas?

poptarts · Jun 19, 2014

I used
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FZ2UOY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
and
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bostitch-1-4-Titanium-Speed-Tip-Drill-Bit-BSA116TM/26913724
and a crappy black and decker 5amp drill from walmart to drill all my holes. Just straddle the pot and lean in hard it will go.

mendozer · Jun 19, 2014

That's pretty much my setup. I'll give it another go after I recover a bit

LandoLincoln · Jun 19, 2014

mendozer said:
Just got my pot today and I can't for the life of me get a pilot hole started. I installed my sight class on my keg just fine. I made the pilot with my small (7/64?) cobalt bit then used the step bit. took me maybe 5 minutes in total.

I can't even make a pilot hole in this thing. Denting it took forever (nail didn't work, punch didn't work, finally a stainless screw kinda worked). Since then the hole hasn't changed much. It's been like an hour and I'm fricken tired.

any Ideas?

I have been there, my friend. Lord, how I've had my share of problems drilling through these pots.

Here's what worked for me the last time I drilled a pot:

1) Buy a new cobalt drill bit for a pilot hole.
2) Drill the pilot hole pretty easily.
3) Use a step bit to make the hole bigger.
4) If you have more holes to drill, repeat steps 1-3.

That worked for me. Don't use a drill bit for more than one pilot hole in these pots.

mendozer · Jun 20, 2014

I'm in utter awe.

That cobalt bit broke. Then I used a new one in the same dimple (which is literally almost all the way through) and got nothing after 15 minutes.

So I tried a NEW bit again on the other side of the pot (I'll leave that old dimple for the welder to attach a triclamp). Dent, drill, dent, drill, swear, drill, rest, drill.....nothing. It's barely a divot at all at this point. Why is this taking so much longer than my keggle? Keg steel is at least 18 gauge like this pot, maybe even 16 gauge. I'm getting really pissed off at this pot!

I'm contemplating taking it to a machine shop so they can take a plasma cutter to it for 2 seconds to burn a hole for me.

mendozer · Jun 20, 2014

That's all I got. I think it's just hardening at this point, no matter how much I lean into it. I'm 185 lbs and it's all going into this process. I can't imagine why this pot is so much more difficult to drill

dcrog · Jun 20, 2014

If your bit is spinning any kind of speed at all you will likely harden it. A good bit, cutting oil or fluid, and bumping the trigger on the drill is usually the best way. I watched my sheet metal workers cover a bar with sheets of stainless and use one 1/8" bit to drill about 100 holes for the rivets and it blew my mind.

A lot of pressure but just keep bumping the trigger so the bit spins up and stops before you bump it again.

By the way I drilled my Concord/Spike brewing pot with a 1/4" titanium bit for the pilot hole and a step bit to get my electric element installed in it.

evanmars · Jun 20, 2014

Just stating the obvious, but is your drill running in the correct direction?

Hello · Jun 20, 2014

evanmars said:
Just stating the obvious, but is your drill running in the correct direction?

I didn't want to come off as a jerk but that is my question. I've done this exact same thing but in solid oak. I couldn't figure out why every single 4" screw went in without incident but this bastard just kept spinning and throwing the screw. I had hit the reverse button on my drill (it's placed just above my index finger on my Dewalt). As soon as that part was handled the screw went right in.

I have a concord pot that I am going to drill into and this worries me. Part of me hopes this is just a weird fluke. I'd likely throw the pot out the window if this happens.

OP: are you also using any cutting oil/fluid? Do you see the wall of the pot bending in at all? I assume it needs a sturdy backing to be able to grab the metal and push through.

ChocolateMaltyBalls · Jun 20, 2014

I have two concords, and both were fairly easy following Bobby M's instructions, except for the second to last hole which was a real pain. I think there are likely some inconsistencies in the steel they use in these pots leading to hard spots.

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

poptarts · Jun 20, 2014

Dewalt has a set of self pilot drill bits, if you cant get a hole started maybe pick up a set of those, I have a set and are pretty sweet. But like I said above that is what I used on my concord and a few keggles and it hard and slow but it goes.

Takuie · Jun 20, 2014

Cut a 2 x 4 block of wood to fit inside all the way across. When drilling SS, especially the thinner heat tempered ones for cooking pots, the metal will flex. I have had a 16" diameter bk I wanted to modify. Had same problems. Cut a 16" block of wood, wedged it down in there and gave it another shot. Couple drops of cutting oil and poof! Sank right through it like warm butter.

Then I spent about 40 bucks and bought a 1/2" conduit knock out punch. I get perfectly clean holes, sized perfectly for running a 1/2" nipple to attach any accessory my never resting mind can think of.

IrregularPulse · Jun 20, 2014

evanmars said:
Just stating the obvious, but is your drill running in the correct direction?

My first thought too. Who hasn't been there? Can't say I've been there for this amount of time before noticing, but still been there

Goolsbymd · Jun 20, 2014

I drilled mine out few months ago, I used a clamp to shoot water on the inside of the kettle to keep it cool, little dab of cutting fluid and a sloow turning drill bit.

mendozer · Jun 20, 2014

haha YES it's going in the right direction!

I am using cutting oil as well. The pot is 18/10 and it doesn't bend much when I lean into it. The one time I pushed with all my might the bit snapped in half.

I'm using the same bump and stop that I did with my keg and that was easy peasy. That pilot hole literally took 10-15 seconds. On both holes I tried with this pot, I got some filings to allow a tiny crater, then no metal shavings afterwards.

Stealthcruiser · Jun 20, 2014

Slow speed, heavy feed.
Cutting oil, not any WD-40 or the like.

Back it up the way Takuie did, and it should fall through.

All those bit(s) that you spun in the same spot for a while?
Trash them.
Start fresh, and remember, "Slow speed, heavy feed", as you wish to see the swarf, ( a "curly cue"), coming off of the hole.

You need to control the speed!

Your Cobalt bit broke because you were not applying pressure perpendicular to the surface.

They are brittle bits!

day_trippr · Jun 20, 2014

After all that time getting nowhere you can be certain that the spot you've barely dinged has been hardened in a major way. I would start with a fresh boron bit but move the point of attack just enough to avoid the "ding" while remaining close enough that the eventual hole diameter will take out said "ding"...

Cheers!

stpug · Jun 20, 2014

A buddy ran into a similar problem. The solution was moving to a larger bit to mill down the end of your small crater, and then moving back to the smaller bit to push through the thin metal at that point. Slow speed and direct-down pressure is the key but once hardened it's just a matter of pushing through so you can get to opening up the hole.

mendozer · Jun 21, 2014

So I went to a cutting store and got some high quality Nacchi cobalt bits. Powder coated or something special like that. After trying on a THIRD spot, that one snapped after leaning in too hard. I was leaning so hard because nothing was shaving off again after the first indentation. So I found a local welder who quickly used his TIG and arced some 3/8 holes in like 20 seconds and $10 later, I had two holes. Saved me lots of frustration and cussing.
I used the step bits to widen them as I normally do then ground away the slag with my dremel and grinder. the top hole for the eye bolt was a piece of cake! So the bottom of the pot must have been case hardened from the factory. And I've read about inconsistencies with this brand, but I guess I got a really good one (which in my case was bad).
At the end of the long night, everything's in there. I learned two new lessons though:
1) don't put your eye bolt that high (my lid hits the inside nut, making it not sit flush so I'm going to have to do something about that.
2) my ball valve's crooked despite maximal tightness. I don't care that much because it's leak free!

stickyfinger · Nov 13, 2014

LandoLincoln said:
I have been there, my friend. Lord, how I've had my share of problems drilling through these pots.

Here's what worked for me the last time I drilled a pot:

1) Buy a new cobalt drill bit for a pilot hole.
2) Drill the pilot hole pretty easily.
3) Use a step bit to make the hole bigger.
4) If you have more holes to drill, repeat steps 1-3.

That worked for me. Don't use a drill bit for more than one pilot hole in these pots.

a new bit for every new hole?! is that really necessary?!

stickyfinger · Nov 13, 2014

ChocolateMaltyBalls said:
I have two concords, and both were fairly easy following Bobby M's instructions, except for the second to last hole which was a real pain. I think there are likely some inconsistencies in the steel they use in these pots leading to hard spots.

Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

what are bobby m's instructions?

beerme70 · Nov 13, 2014

I am an airframe mechanic, and I drill through aluminum, titanium, and stainless steel on a daily basis. Center punch your hole location, then drill a 3/32 pilot hole with a cobalt bit (stay away from those cheapo gold titanium coated garbage from Harbor Freight). Use cutting fluid or bees wax, and drill SLOW. Let the bit do the work. Then use a unibit (step bit), but make sure it's of good quality. Greenlee punches work good, too.

Stealthcruiser · Nov 13, 2014

beerme70 said:
I am an airframe mechanic, and I drill through aluminum, titanium, and stainless steel on a daily basis. Center punch your hole location, then drill a 3/32 pilot hole with a cobalt bit (stay away from those cheapo gold titanium coated garbage from Harbor Freight). Use cutting fluid or bees wax, and drill SLOW. Let the bit do the work. Then use a unibit (step bit), but make sure it's of good quality. Greenlee punches work good, too.

Same here.
If the pretty good "D I Y'r" had a tube of "BoeLube", he could drill through anything!

stickyfinger · Nov 13, 2014

beerme70 said:
I am an airframe mechanic, and I drill through aluminum, titanium, and stainless steel on a daily basis. Center punch your hole location, then drill a 3/32 pilot hole with a cobalt bit (stay away from those cheapo gold titanium coated garbage from Harbor Freight). Use cutting fluid or bees wax, and drill SLOW. Let the bit do the work. Then use a unibit (step bit), but make sure it's of good quality. Greenlee punches work good, too.

I'll try that, thanks!

beerme70 · Nov 14, 2014

Stealthcruiser said:
Same here.
If the pretty good "D I Y'r" had a tube of "BoeLube", he could drill through anything!

I've got a big tub of it in the garage :ban:

Stealthcruiser · Nov 14, 2014

Same here!

LandoLincoln · Nov 14, 2014

stickyfinger said:
a new bit for every new hole?! is that really necessary?!

No. Just use a new bit every time one stops working.

So yeah, basically a new bit for every hole.

OR...you could curse and swear and bear down with a drill on the pots for 20 minutes. That seems to work too.

LandoLincoln · Nov 14, 2014

beerme70 said:
I am an airframe mechanic, and I drill through aluminum, titanium, and stainless steel on a daily basis. Center punch your hole location, then drill a 3/32 pilot hole with a cobalt bit (stay away from those cheapo gold titanium coated garbage from Harbor Freight). Use cutting fluid or bees wax, and drill SLOW. Let the bit do the work. Then use a unibit (step bit), but make sure it's of good quality. Greenlee punches work good, too.

These pots laugh at your pathetic common-sense instructions.

Stealthcruiser · Nov 14, 2014

LandoLincoln said:
These pots laugh at your pathetic common-sense instructions.

These pots would be no longer laughing in my presence, for it would turn to a frown as I had my way with them! :rockin:

stickyfinger · Nov 14, 2014

LandoLincoln said:
These pots laugh at your pathetic common-sense instructions.

what about a greenlee step bit and then a hole punch as Kal recommends?

Can't drill into my concord

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