My goal was to create a control panel that still looked and functioned to a high level without spending a whole lot of cash. I realize that I could have spent less in some areas and could have spent more in some areas, but what I have picked out looks like it will meet my needs.
I have ordered from a combination of ebay, Auber, Amazon, Allied Electronics, bargain fittings, and home depot. If you have any questions about any of the parts, just ask!
I'm following a combination of Kal's panel aesthetics and wiring from PJ's diagram (with one small tweak for an alarm switch) here:
I picked up a cheap harbor freight knockout punch set to punch the panel front holes, but quickly found it vastly inferior to the Greenlee punch I used for the element in the electrical box. I ended up using my step bit and drill with a dremel to clean the edges. I used a reciprocating saw to cut the PID square hole with pilot holes and it was super easy and quick. I originally tried with my dremel and it would have take forever and not cut as clean. Here is what I came up with:
The bottom switches are Control Panel Power, Pump 1, Pump 2.
The middle switches are PID Power and Alarm on/off
The top are E-Stop and Element Select
I used a bi-metal hole saw to cut the two element outlets, however I used one size to large on the first one (DOH!) and then made the second one too close to put a faceplate on both (DOUBLE DOH!). Oh well. The cables plugin next to each other just fine and the single faceplate and some silicon cover my mistake.
I will probably put some sort of rubber feet on the bottom (tall enough to allow for the 90 degree male plug fit), but decided that if I wanted to do this I would need to put my temp. probe connection somewhere else. I put it on the side.
I still need to cut the holes for the pump outlet. I picked that up last night, but didn't have a chance to put it in yet. That will happen within the next few evenings.
The next step was to start drilling, tapping, and mounting the internal electrical components. First off, this is my first time creating threads. I picked up a cheap harbor freight SAE threading set and it works great! It takes a little bit of time, but is totally worth it since now I can just torque the components down directly. The wiring diagram calls for 3 contactors, the SSR, fuses, and some terminal strips. I struggled with the layout a bit, but I got it to a point where I am comfortable. We will see how tight it gets when the wiring goes in....
Oh, and don't pay any attention to the level-ness of everything. We will just say that the picture distorts it.
So what is left?
I'll post updates as I progress!
Question: Will I need to add a fan to the box for the SSR? If so, how do people normally do this? I have a fan wired to a wall wart in my fermentation chamber that runs all the time. Should I just do something similar and keep it in the box? Do I need any sort of slits for air in/out?
Thanks!:fro:
I have ordered from a combination of ebay, Auber, Amazon, Allied Electronics, bargain fittings, and home depot. If you have any questions about any of the parts, just ask!
I'm following a combination of Kal's panel aesthetics and wiring from PJ's diagram (with one small tweak for an alarm switch) here:
I picked up a cheap harbor freight knockout punch set to punch the panel front holes, but quickly found it vastly inferior to the Greenlee punch I used for the element in the electrical box. I ended up using my step bit and drill with a dremel to clean the edges. I used a reciprocating saw to cut the PID square hole with pilot holes and it was super easy and quick. I originally tried with my dremel and it would have take forever and not cut as clean. Here is what I came up with:
The bottom switches are Control Panel Power, Pump 1, Pump 2.
The middle switches are PID Power and Alarm on/off
The top are E-Stop and Element Select
I used a bi-metal hole saw to cut the two element outlets, however I used one size to large on the first one (DOH!) and then made the second one too close to put a faceplate on both (DOUBLE DOH!). Oh well. The cables plugin next to each other just fine and the single faceplate and some silicon cover my mistake.
I will probably put some sort of rubber feet on the bottom (tall enough to allow for the 90 degree male plug fit), but decided that if I wanted to do this I would need to put my temp. probe connection somewhere else. I put it on the side.
I still need to cut the holes for the pump outlet. I picked that up last night, but didn't have a chance to put it in yet. That will happen within the next few evenings.
The next step was to start drilling, tapping, and mounting the internal electrical components. First off, this is my first time creating threads. I picked up a cheap harbor freight SAE threading set and it works great! It takes a little bit of time, but is totally worth it since now I can just torque the components down directly. The wiring diagram calls for 3 contactors, the SSR, fuses, and some terminal strips. I struggled with the layout a bit, but I got it to a point where I am comfortable. We will see how tight it gets when the wiring goes in....
Oh, and don't pay any attention to the level-ness of everything. We will just say that the picture distorts it.
So what is left?
- Heating Element construction and keggle hole punching
- Internal Wiring
- Spa Panel Wiring
- Adding dual 30-amp breaker to main panel
- Make beer
- Drink Beer
I'll post updates as I progress!
Question: Will I need to add a fan to the box for the SSR? If so, how do people normally do this? I have a fan wired to a wall wart in my fermentation chamber that runs all the time. Should I just do something similar and keep it in the box? Do I need any sort of slits for air in/out?
Thanks!:fro:
