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Ss BrewTech Chronical + Pump Cart = Ultimate CIP

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mfabe

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Like alot of other guys here, I always had this distaste for cleaning my gear post-fermentation. Even when I used carboys, sometimes I would just cap and line them up in the garage until the weekend came around so I could clean them. What’s worse is all the cleaning gadgets, brushes, etc I had to use to keep everything sanitary. Even then, it was a huge PITA…

So when I moved to using Chronicals, it was much easier since I could actually remove the lid to clean. However, I'm pretty crazy about sanitation, so when Ss Brewtech introduced their CIP spray ball, I went ahead and jumped on it. I started with a more entry level setup using a sump pump and bucket instead of a closed loop system. It worked great, but required alot more PBW/Sanitizer volume to work effectively. Since pressure would have to build in the vessel to force the collection at the bottom out of the lower dump valve. So sometimes the pump would starve if you didn’t have enough volume.

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So I got to thinking, and decided to go ahead and build a pump cart using the lower shelf from a Ss Chronical 14, and a piece of 12" x 12" 16-gauge stainless sheet I found on Amazon. To stiffen everything up, I picked up some Chronical leg extensions.

I opted go with the Chugger Nano pump, because of how powerful it was in relation to their smaller pumps that I use for normal brewing and wort transfer. I found that CIP is only as good as the amount of pressure and volume that you can feed the spray ball. Without a significant amount of pressure, it’s really all for none. Plus, it would allow me to operate a fully closed loop system.

Although I didn’t need to, opted to go TC fittings for everything to keep life simple, and they mate up directly with the butterfly valves on the Brewmaster Edition Chronicals. Since the pump requires at least a ¾” ID return feed, or the warranty will void, I went with a full 1” MPT TC fitting. Then for the supply feed, I stuck with ½” fittings.

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Ss also just recently introduced 1” silicone tubing, so I snagged 3 feet of that in addition to a few of their 1” barbs. The key part of my design/setup to clean BOTH valves is using the offset TC tee-fitting to act as a manifold. That way the pump draws caustics and sanitizers through both valves, instead of just the lower valve. I used brewer’s hardware for the offset tee-fitting, the 90 degree ½” barb at the top, and few other specialized fittings that Ss did not carry.

After using the system roughly 5-6 times, I can honestly say this was the second best upgrade I ever made to my home brewery. The first being my glycol chiller build!

My cleaning regimen now goes as follows. Once, I empty the fermenter after fermentation. I add 2 gallons of hot water from the sink, so roughly 120-130 degrees, then add 1.5 oz of PBW. I fire up the loop and let it run for roughly 15-20 minutes. Just have a beer and relax…

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Then, I dump that out, and give it a quick spray down with the hose. At this stage there is no stuck on krausen deposits, and the stainless looks sparkling clean. Then I go ahead and put another 2 gallons of regular room temperature water in, and then add 2 oz of 5 Star Acid #5.

Keep in mind this is a commercial grade acid, so use all necessary precautions! That means gloves, goggles, the whole nine yards! If it touches you it will burn you…. So bottom line, take all the manufacturers safety precautions to heart, just like you should with all cleaners.

I let the Acid #5 run for about another 15-20 minutes, and have beer #2. :tank: Then dump that, and let the Chronical air-dry to repassivate. Acid #5 is amazing stuff, it takes off beer stone, kills everything it touches, and leaves your stainless with a crystal like shiny luster… Your done for now, so put your Chronical away until your next brew day…

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Then most importantly, I run another 15-20 minute cycle of Saniclean before I put my next batch in on my brew day. Just another 2 gallons of room temp water, with 1 oz of SaniClean. It acts as both a sanitizer and final rinse to remove any residual Acid #5. This is a low foaming sanitizer similar to Star San…. JUST DO NOT use Star San with CIP, it foams way too much. It’s like putting laundry detergent in your dish washer… Just trust me!

What I like most about this setup is that I never remove a valve, my FTSs chiller coil(s), or any other fittings any longer, everything is completely CIP just as it would be in a commercial brewery setting. I have gotten amazing results thus far, and my equipment hasn’t looked this good since the day I got it! If you’re a serious home brewer, this is a must-have setup… you won’t be disappointed! :rockin:
 
I recommend getting rid of the silicone tubing for Santoprene (i.e. thermoplastic) if you intend to keep using Acid #5. Silicone does not do well with phosphoric acid. It's not going to melt in your hands, but it will deteriorate. Also keep an eye on the valves if they have silicone seats; EPDM seats would be the better choice in that case also. You could use citric acid as an alternative to Acid #5 and that won't harm silicone rubber.
 
Are you the R&D guy for SSBT? Looks like you got another potential product for their site. Also, kudos for the set-up. Gotta add this to my Father's Day want list. [emoji41]
 
I recommend getting rid of the silicone tubing for Santoprene (i.e. thermoplastic) if you intend to keep using Acid #5. Silicone does not do well with phosphoric acid. It's not going to melt in your hands, but it will deteriorate. Also keep an eye on the valves if they have silicone seats; EPDM seats would be the better choice in that case also. You could use citric acid as an alternative to Acid #5 and that won't harm silicone rubber.

Thanks for the heads up... I saw on the MSDS it's only 6% Phosphoric, which when further diluted down probably isn't enough to cause an issue with silicone tubing. Also, silicone didn't make the incompatible materials list. I'll keep an eye on what it does to the tubing, but so far so good....
 
Nice job, I really like what you did there! Might have to get me a spray ball for my conical...Thanks for posting!

John
 
The key part of my design/setup to clean BOTH valves is using the offset TC tee-fitting to act as a manifold. That way the pump draws caustics and sanitizers through both valves, instead of just the lower valve. I used brewer’s hardware for the offset tee-fitting, the 90 degree ½” barb at the top, and few other specialized fittings that Ss did not carry.

Do you have a link to the offset tee fitting? I took a look at the TC Tees on brewersharware but I didn't see one like in your picture.

btw, super impressed with this setup and definitely makes me super excited to get the BME Chronical.

Thanks for all of your posts!
 
Wow, you must really hate cleaning to invest in that rig! Nice work.

The most I think I could hope for is a polished stainless steel handle on my carboy brush! lol
 
Do you have a link to the offset tee fitting? I took a look at the TC Tees on brewersharware but I didn't see one like in your picture.

btw, super impressed with this setup and definitely makes me super excited to get the BME Chronical.

Thanks for all of your posts!

They actually dont have it on the site as an individual item, give Curtis a call at BH, tell him you want the offset T-fitting they use for their RIMS tube!
 
One more part question, on the top the CIP Spray ball from SS has a 1/2 MPT, but in your picture, it looks like you have a TC elbow ... what parts did you used to convert the 1/2" MPT back to TC Elbow ?
 
I have a similar set up with a 42 gallon stout conical and a big march pump. I had problems with the conical developing a vacuum as the hot cleaning solution cooled. Ultimately, I drilled two 1/8" holes in the triclamp flange of the spray ball. This allowed pressure equalization without any leaks. YMMV.
 
I have a similar set up with a 42 gallon stout conical and a big march pump. I had problems with the conical developing a vacuum as the hot cleaning solution cooled. Ultimately, I drilled two 1/8" holes in the triclamp flange of the spray ball. This allowed pressure equalization without any leaks. YMMV.

Thanks for sharing; that's a super important tip given the thinner walls of the homebrew versions. Even at the commercial level, vacuums can ruin a conical.

I wonder if one could apply positive air pressure through the sampling port, like 1 PSI or something like that.
 
I'd be taking off those weldless fittings every 3 or 4 batches and do a deep clean personally. Cip pumps are nice though. I'll be buying a vfd pump in the next month or so for my conicals.
 
I'd be taking off those weldless fittings every 3 or 4 batches and do a deep clean personally. Cip pumps are nice though. I'll be buying a vfd pump in the next month or so for my conicals.

I disagree, I haven't taken off the chiller coil or thermowell since I side mounted them within the last year or so. That's at least 10 batches. No problems whatsoever! In my opinion there is no need to remove them with thorough cleaning practices. :mug:
 
Where did you find Acid Cleaner #5? I have a similar setup, but using the sump pump and bucket. Would Acid #5 be ok with that kind of pump or would it eat the parts away?
 
Do you have a link to the offset tee fitting? I took a look at the TC Tees on brewersharware but I didn't see one like in your picture.

btw, super impressed with this setup and definitely makes me super excited to get the BME Chronical.

Thanks for all of your posts!

Here's the link (courtesy of Curtis):

These tees are located here: https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15TEE-OFFSET.html
 
Still hoping it won't eat away the interior of the pump at normal concentrations.

I was interested in this as well as I have the same pump as the OP and have been looking at acid cleaners, so I looked up some info.

Chugger lists their internals as Ryton/Teflon (Impeller), Teflon (Thrust Washers), Stainless Steel (Front & Rear Casing). I'm not concerned about the stainless. Teflon has excellent ratings against Phosphoric and Nitric acid in raw concentrations we are dealing with (http://www.calpaclab.com/teflon-ptfe-compatibility). Ryton on the other hand looks like it could degrade over time with extensive exposure to Nitric/Phosphoric acid (http://www.solvay.com/en/markets-and-products/featured-products/Ryton-Chemical-Resistance.html).

Silicone tubing/valve seats have poor resistance to Nitric/Phosphoric acid as well.

All that said, with a normal dosing of 1oz/gal of 6% Phosphoric and 38% Nitric acid, that should put the concentrations at .046% and .294%, respectively. At those percentages, I'm not sure I'm all that concerned of damage. Worst case with my 1-2 times a month acid cleaning, I'll probably wear the impeller out in a couple years.

Cheers,

Joe
 
They actually dont have it on the site as an individual item, give Curtis a call at BH, tell him you want the offset T-fitting they use for their RIMS tube!

Just called Curtis and he said they hope to have it easier to find but for now, one can go directly to the SKU here:

https://www.brewershardware.com/TC15TEE-OFFSET.html

I've got a 1/2 barrel BME Chronical arriving today, and hopefully the CIP parts by end of the week!

:ban:
 
I was interested in this as well as I have the same pump as the OP and have been looking at acid cleaners, so I looked up some info.

Chugger lists their internals as Ryton/Teflon (Impeller), Teflon (Thrust Washers), Stainless Steel (Front & Rear Casing). I'm not concerned about the stainless. Teflon has excellent ratings against Phosphoric and Nitric acid in raw concentrations we are dealing with (http://www.calpaclab.com/teflon-ptfe-compatibility). Ryton on the other hand looks like it could degrade over time with extensive exposure to Nitric/Phosphoric acid (http://www.solvay.com/en/markets-and-products/featured-products/Ryton-Chemical-Resistance.html).

Silicone tubing/valve seats have poor resistance to Nitric/Phosphoric acid as well.

All that said, with a normal dosing of 1oz/gal of 6% Phosphoric and 38% Nitric acid, that should put the concentrations at .046% and .294%, respectively. At those percentages, I'm not sure I'm all that concerned of damage. Worst case with my 1-2 times a month acid cleaning, I'll probably wear the impeller out in a couple years.

Cheers,

Joe

I was thinking the same thing. Sump pumps are relatively cheap so I am not too worried about this. I suppose time will tell.
 
This is pretty incredible. I just used my BME chronical for the first time last week and I HATE cleaning it. I would love to piece together this CIP system. I had a hard time following the part list. Anyone willing to put together a part list for this build?
 
I'm working on my cart right now, I've got most of the list, so once it's all working I'll dump my parts
 
I'm working on my cart right now, I've got most of the list, so once it's all working I'll dump my parts

Well, almost got it all but undercounted the number of 1.5" clamps needed.
Brewhardware to the rescue.

Per the picture, needed 11 1.5" clamps, only had 7 between the chronical and what I added to the initial order.

And I was missing a second 1/2" FPT to 1.5" Tri-clover for the pump output.

---> <--- This close
 
Nice Mfabe! I love my CIP set up. I went with the sump pump in a bucket as I'm saving for another 1/2 barrel. I can put it in my brew sink and put my pots over them upside down to clean them which is a plus!
 
Got it working! First lesson, make sure the butterfly valve faces away from the conical. Second lesson, use the sampling port to pressure release, the hot water adds some steam. Third, clamp down the lid, or it will leak, glad I learned that with water and pbw. Fourth, plumber tape for the NPT connection is required for no leaks!

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