Stc-1000+

Hi all you STC-1000+ experts. I encountered a new problem this afternoon. I had a working STC-1000+. Been using it for a few weeks now. I was attempting to flash it with some updated profiles from the hex editor. My STC was plugged into the arduino and the arduino was plugged into the pc. After successfully flashing I went to disconnect and one of the jumpers came loose between the stc and ardunio. It made a strange noise, similar to the alarm sound of not having a probe connected (mine was connected), and then the stc went dark.

I think maybe I fried something? I can't get power to the stc via my main power cord or through the ardunio.

Is there a solve for this...or am I now in search of a new stc unit to flash?

I would try setting the sketch to auto program versus having to go through the monitor. Then connect it, and push the reset button

I flashed 2 STC 1000 controllers today, thought I'd share my experiences for the next to follow suit. First, however a HUGE thanks to Alpha for this upgrade, great work I can't wait to get it installed on my new ferm chamber. Then, thanks go out to Wil Conrad, for his You tube tutorial. The documentation by alpha is top notch, and the video added quite a value to us newbies too, so thanks!

I work in finance and have worked within an IT environment on numerous projects, but never on hardware, so I'm as newbie as they come! (I googled, and wiki'd everything from PID to PWM and more!). Here's my observances:

Flashed STC 1000+ using an Arduino Uno I picked up at Radio Shack, $27, had some old Amex Gift cards lying around so it was cheap! I wired it in with jumper cables as RS didn't have DuPont cables (I could've waited for Amazon of course too), and I didn't have a pin head, so fashioned this by wiring it up (via the aforementioned great documentation from Alpha) from the Arduino first, then straightening out the ends and cutting them to all come out to the same length. I chose not to solder, just hold after cleaning the solder with alcohol and scratching a bit w/my screwdriver. I attached all 5 wires onto some duct tape (and folded over). Voila! A somewhat stable pin header. I had to fuss with it to get to the right width a bit, but ended up ok. After a few trial and errors to flash (my laptop kept dropping my com port the Arduino was hooked to, and at one time I found one of my wires disconnected from the Arduino) I finally got it to "see" the STC 1000 and flash away. I was surprised when an alarm went off (not terribly loud) as I had the sensor probe hooked up. When I was done, after the mosquito noise, (spoiler alert, skip to the end!) I had to laugh at the line of output that read "writing magic". Very funny! Then I decided to flash the 2nd STC, and as I was unhooking the temp probe (used the same one) that's when I noticed one end had come free- thus the sound. But I checked the 1st one and the temp read Farenheit, so seems ok. I flashed the 2nd one in ....well, a flash! Had the laptop drop out the com port but replug and away I went. This time no buzzer noise, the temp probe stayed in. I'm very happy with the ease of this, and can't wait to use in the new ferm chamber. Thanks to all here as well who wrote about their experiences!

smithabusa said:

I would try setting the sketch to auto program versus having to go through the monitor. Then connect it, and push the reset button

Click to expand...

Smithabusa...once again...you're a lifesaver!! Where are you located, I travel a lot for work and when I'm in your neck of the woods I'm buying you a beer.

I think you've saved me twice in as many weeks now.

Really appreciate the help!

Fermentation is back on autopilot...and just in time as I'm heading out of town tomorrow.

rosenhop said:

Smithabusa...once again...you're a lifesaver!! Where are you located, I travel a lot for work and when I'm in your neck of the woods I'm buying you a beer.

I think you've saved me twice in as many weeks now.

Really appreciate the help!

Fermentation is back on autopilot...and just in time as I'm heading out of town tomorrow.

Click to expand...

Awesome

Michigan, work in Dearborn, live in stockbridge 63 miles away which is between ann arbor and Lansing, out in the sticks lol

Kampenken said:

I had to laugh at the line of output that read "writing magic". Very funny!

Click to expand...

Glad to hear you had an overall positive experience
"Writing magic" is not a joke though, it really writes a 'magic' number to the configuration words of the PIC, so that the sketch can identify that an STC-1000+ enabled controller is connected the next time. It also writes version information if I recall correctly.

Hope you enjoy your newly flashed controllers!

Cheers!

alphaomega said:

..."Writing magic" is not a joke though, it really writes a 'magic' number to the configuration words of the PIC, so that the sketch can identify that an STC-1000+ enabled controller is connected the next time. It also writes version information if I recall correctly.
...Cheers!

Click to expand...

My noobness rise up! Though I do like the thought of a little added humor in the process!

Got some work to do tonight, making the world a better place, one alphaomega equipped stc-1000 at a time

For those of you using the STC-1000+ with firmware v1.07 and two temp probes, how are you using the second probe?

My understanding is with the right settings, the 2nd probe can be used to limit temp overshoot. My question is what are you using for hy, hy2, delay timers, how do you have it in the chamber (ambient, in water, sand, container?), and what temp range do you maintain?

I just fermented my first batch in my new chamber and couldn't find a setting that kept the temp range any closer than just using the one probe during peak fermentation; quite the opposite actually... I was shooting for 64, primarily cooling, .5* hy, 10 min cooling delay, various heating delays (settled on 0), had probe 1 taped to the carboy with reflectix insulating it, and had probe 2 hanging ambient. I'm using a Haier BC112G wine fridge and a fermwrap heater, but not wrapped around the carboy. The smallest range I was able to manage, with lots of cycling, was about 62-64 with a 63.5* SP and .5 hy.

smithabusa said:

I would try setting the sketch to auto program versus having to go through the monitor. Then connect it, and push the reset button

Click to expand...

I'm having the same problem. A few seconds into my flash it seemed to disconnect. When I connected the next time I got the alarm, then a quieter alarm without any display, and now nothing. I looked for an "Auto Program" option in the Arduino software but saw none, can you direct me to where to find that? Also, you mean connect it and hit the reset button on the Arduino?

Hoping I haven't shorted out my STC-1000!

tslugmo said:

I'm having the same problem. A few seconds into my flash it seemed to disconnect. When I connected the next time I got the alarm, then a quieter alarm without any display, and now nothing. I looked for an "Auto Program" option in the Arduino software but saw none, can you direct me to where to find that? Also, you mean connect it and hit the reset button on the Arduino?

Hoping I haven't shorted out my STC-1000!

Click to expand...

Search for this code

/* Set to 1 to enable automatic upload of Fahrenheit version */ #define AUTOMATIC_UPLOAD_FAHRENHEIT 0

/* Set to 1 to enable automatic upload of Celsius version */ #define AUTOMATIC_UPLOAD_CELSIUS 0

Change the 0 to 1 on the f or c depending on which version you are using

smithabusa said:

Search for this code

/* Set to 1 to enable automatic upload of Fahrenheit version */ #define AUTOMATIC_UPLOAD_FAHRENHEIT 0

/* Set to 1 to enable automatic upload of Celsius version */ #define AUTOMATIC_UPLOAD_CELSIUS 0

Change the 0 to 1 on the f or c depending on which version you are using

Click to expand...

You're racking up the beers. Saved my STC 1000 too. Thank you so much!

For future searchers, my STC-1000 was not lighting up at all, and when I would hit "d" in Arduino, it said that the STC was not detected. Having it auto upload meant that all I had to do was worry about getting it connected perfectly, and then the upload would start on it's own without me having to move to hit any keys on the keyboard. Once I had the connect right, I heard it making the uploading sound, and I held my breath and tried not to move until the end. Once it completed, the display lit up again. So I'm guessing I was making the connection ok before, but it wasn't lighting up because the flash was only partially complete, which made it seem like it wasn't working at all.

Thank you smithabusa! :rockin:

tslugmo said:

You're racking up the beers. Saved my STC 1000 too. Thank you so much!

For future searchers, my STC-1000 was not lighting up at all, and when I would hit "d" in Arduino, it said that the STC was not detected. Having it auto upload meant that all I had to do was worry about getting it connected perfectly, and then the upload would start on it's own without me having to move to hit any keys on the keyboard. Once I had the connect right, I heard it making the uploading sound, and I held my breath and tried not to move until the end. Once it completed, the display lit up again. So I'm guessing I was making the connection ok before, but it wasn't lighting up because the flash was only partially complete, which made it seem like it wasn't working at all.

Thank you smithabusa! :rockin:

Click to expand...

Glad you got it, good work!

@alphaomega

Any thoughts on a way to make the html hex editor generate the actual .ino file using the latest version that you have available versus just the text string for the settings? I apologize for my ignorance not really knowing if that is even possible, but it would seem like it might make it a little more user friendly for someone who isn't great at copying and pasting without mistakes into the .ino document. If it launched the .ino file as you hit the button, I think that would automatically load the Arduino software if you already had it installed?

Just thinking out loud.

Greg

This Q is pretty basic - I think my stc might be dead. I set compression wait down to 1 minute and waited 5 min. Probe is in ice so it definitely should trigger the heat. I have voltage at the power supply and the unit turns on. However I'm getting no voltage across the hot screws.

Is this a case of "wrong voltage" since the outs are 220, or do you think I got a bad unit?

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1425137866.054711.jpg

brewguyver said:

This Q is pretty basic - I think my stc might be dead. I set compression wait down to 1 minute and waited 5 min. Probe is in ice so it definitely should trigger the heat. I have voltage at the power supply and the unit turns on. However I'm getting no voltage across the hot screws.

Is this a case of "wrong voltage" since the outs are 220, or do you think I got a bad unit?

View attachment 259919

Click to expand...

You're wired all wrong brother. Heating and cooling connections are just hot in and hot out, no neutral wires. Search out some of the wiring diagrams here on the forum

this is something I put together, more geared towards the hardware I include in my kit, but might help you to see the connections on a photo versus schematic.

RocketBrewer said:

You're wired all wrong brother. Heating and cooling connections are just hot in and hot out, no neutral wires. Search out some of the wiring diagrams here on the forum

Click to expand...

Its possible he is just utilizing the the wire he had on hand to the main circuit ... Since if he did wire them the way that looks he would have gotten quite a smoke puff and a blown breaker when the relays closed right?

Here's a simple one. If using one outlet for both heating and cooling, you must break the small metal tab between the hot screws. There are many different diagrams here for different set-ups you might want to do some research to figure out what works for you. This should give you an idea how the STC should be wired though. Good luck!

smithabusa said:

@alphaomega

Any thoughts on a way to make the html hex editor generate the actual .ino file using the latest version that you have available versus just the text string for the settings? I apologize for my ignorance not really knowing if that is even possible, but it would seem like it might make it a little more user friendly for someone who isn't great at copying and pasting without mistakes into the .ino document. If it launched the .ino file as you hit the button, I think that would automatically load the Arduino software if you already had it installed?

Just thinking out loud.

Greg

Click to expand...

Absolutely, I think it might be possible and it is a good idea!
One issue is that I have no 'real' web hosting, just serve the page through google docs. That means it needs to be static, so I'd need to remember to update if/when there is a new version. Not really a big deal.
The big issue is time (as always), but I'll try to keep it in mind!
Thanks for the suggestion!

alphaomega said:

Absolutely, I think it might be possible and it is a good idea!
One issue is that I have no 'real' web hosting, just serve the page through google docs. That means it needs to be static, so I'd need to remember to update if/when there is a new version. Not really a big deal.
The big issue is time (as always), but I'll try to keep it in mind!
Thanks for the suggestion!

Click to expand...

I am more than happy to host anything that you need on my site if that at all helps.

Thanks, that is a nice offer! Whatcha got? Linux? PHP?
Well, it really is a secondary issue though. I got a lot of other stuff right now (between kids that won't sleep and soldering and packing up a buttload of STC:s for sale myself). Maybe, later then

alphaomega said:

Thanks, that is a nice offer! Whatcha got? Linux? PHP?
Well, it really is a secondary issue though. I got a lot of other stuff right now (between kids that won't sleep and soldering and packing up a buttload of STC:s for sale myself). Maybe, later then

Click to expand...

I'm hosted through doteasy.com

Beyond that I'm not much of an expert lol

I hear you on the kid stuff, we have 3. Are you building assembled controllers?

Nah, I don't have time or tools to build complete units. Besides, I don't want to accept any liability for the wiring. I'm selling units that are modified for dual probes and optionally a box with all the connectors and wires and stuff to build a complete unit and also programmers.
The seller sent me wrong units as well (110V), but at least they sent me 230v transformers later (it was their misstake), but now I have a lot of transformers to desolder and they are a biatch...

@smithabusa:
Well, that was easy...

alphaomega said:

@smithabusa:
Well, that was easy...

Click to expand...

Wow, sweet! Nice work, at lightning speed.

Was this question too hard for you folks to answer?

Cheers!

Holy Balzac Batman, those SMC resistors are small!

Thank you Greg for the hardware, and Mats for the firmware!

And a reminder to all - if you're flashing firmware and re-initializing your EEPROM data, you'll need to re-calibrate your temp probes.

MikeInMKE said:

Holy Balzac Batman, those SMC resistors are small!

Thank you Greg for the hardware, and Mats for the firmware!

And a reminder to all - if you're flashing firmware and re-initializing your EEPROM data, you'll need to re-calibrate your temp probes.

Click to expand...

Yes they are hilariously small

smithabusa said:

Yes they are hilariously small

Click to expand...

If you think those are small, try to even find a 01005 resistor.

Brew on

alphaomega said:

@smithabusa:
Well, that was easy...

Click to expand...

Not sure I'm using the editor correctly but the graph that shows the programs (Pr0 -Pr5) will not show up after I made changes and will not switch over to Fahrenheit.
Edit: I needed to reload the web page.everything works

doug293cz said:

If you think those are small, try to even find a 01005 resistor.

Click to expand...

Thank you, but no! I'm using an old-school Ungar 45W iron with a relatively HUGE chisel tip (larger than the resistor!), which was a challenge enough. I upgraded both of my STC-1000+ controllers, hardware and firmware, without issue, thank God.

Beforehand, I stopped by the local RadioShack to see if they had a sharper tip for my old iron, and they are closed, permanently. On the one hand, their prices were outrageous. On the other hand, they were the only local retailer I could get electronic components at. Mixed feelings. So long, RS; I despised your prices, while welcoming your convenience. You will be missed.

day_trippr said:

Was this question too hard for you folks to answer?

Cheers!

Click to expand...

Well, for me, yes.
I have really no experience to add. Gut feeling though, is overshooting a problem in the first place in the particular setup? And that you'd probably need to do some logging of the temperatures to get an idea of what setting would be good.
If someone has more experience, maybe they can chime in

I see that the probe is a NTK 10K thermistor. How critical is the beta value.
Searches say beta is 3435, but I don't see many on ebay.

Has anyone found where to get one with a <5 mm probe end (for a thermowell.)

adam01 said:

I see that the probe is a NTK 10K thermistor. How critical is the beta value.
Searches say beta is 3435, but I don't see many on ebay.

Has anyone found where to get one with a <5 mm probe end (for a thermowell.)

Click to expand...

Mouser has some with real small end, I have a few, can send you one if you want to try, wires arent overly long but you can extend.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=NTCLE413E2103F102Lvirtualkey59420000virtualkeyNTCLE413E2103F102L

At the gas station today look what I saw

adam01 said:

I see that the probe is a NTK 10K thermistor. How critical is the beta value.
Searches say beta is 3435, but I don't see many on ebay.

Has anyone found where to get one with a <5 mm probe end (for a thermowell.)

Click to expand...

The search on eBay would be something like this 'ntc 10k 3435'.

I have bought a bunch of these before, they are smaller diameter, but also, the cable is pretty flimsy.

For a thermowell, it could be a good idea to roll your own sensor, using something like
this.

smithabusa said:

At the gas station today look what I saw

Click to expand...

I'd say that is not an stc, but probably one of those single stage Fahrenheit units. I see a handful of units every time I go grocery shopping. Every cooler/freezer is equipped with a controller. Not stc, but similar in appearance.
It is weird how you can become aware of such detail

Thanks for the responses on the probe. I had hoped to find a US seller, so I may take
one of these suggestions to make my own.

I installed my STC last night to see it work. It is driving a fan from the internal supply and a relay. The ramping appears to be working nicely.

I did note that due to the hysteresis being the same for cooling and heating that if I had a heater plugged in, it would be going off a little after the cooling turned off. For this side of the chamber, its not a problem as I normally don't use heat. But I wonder what people do that have both heat and cold in use.

Thanks for the great software.

adam01 said:

Thanks for the responses on the probe. I had hoped to find a US seller, so I may take
one of these suggestions to make my own.

I installed my STC last night to see it work. It is driving a fan from the internal supply and a relay. The ramping appears to be working nicely.

I did note that due to the hysteresis being the same for cooling and heating that if I had a heater plugged in, it would be going off a little after the cooling turned off. For this side of the chamber, its not a problem as I normally don't use heat. But I wonder what people do that have both heat and cold in use.

Thanks for the great software.

Click to expand...

I have a number of the ones from mouser I sent the link on, just PM me your address I can send you one if you want to try it.

fyi I just received (and flashed) a correct version a400_p version 1.1 stc1000 from this seller today ($15.50 shipped)...http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Pro-All...398?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cec2e0fa6

He also normally stocks some of them in the US but I ordered the last 3 it seems...I ordered mine friday and received it today! shipped from Texas.... that was fast.

I also noticed that radioshack now carries the arduino locally needed to flash these as well...