Facelift for my control panel

schematix · Jan 22, 2015

Yah the cone is attached to a piston and there is a magnet on the piston. When the piston moves, the magnet moves closer to the reed switch and closes it. Pretty simple but not without some draw backs.

I don't think that turbine unit has any control ability. You supply it a voltage to power the hall effect sensor, and it sends back a voltage proportional to the speed. You then take that signal into your controller and use it to create a control signal to control a pump speed, etc.

augiedoggy · Jan 23, 2015

schematix said:
Yah the cone is attached to a piston and there is a magnet on the piston. When the piston moves, the magnet moves closer to the reed switch and closes it. Pretty simple but not without some draw backs.

I don't think that turbine unit has any control ability. You supply it a voltage to power the hall effect sensor, and it sends back a voltage proportional to the speed. You then take that signal into your controller and use it to create a control signal to control a pump speed, etc.

I figured the magnet was attached to the cone which looks to be spring loaded with a slightspring... hopefully this wont cut my flow down much as its only about 1.5 gallons per minute now with the restrictictions from the false bottom and lines.

As for the one you linked, Its possible. Your explanation makes more sense.. I read from one of the sellers that it controls flow as well as senses it but they didnt say how...

schematix · Jan 26, 2015

augiedoggy said:
EBay ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/33135307974...49&var=540545512831&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

What did you use to adapt from the BSP threads to NPT?

augiedoggy · Jan 26, 2015

all of my 24 and 12 volt DC pumps use the bSP version threads and those thread fine to my npt threaded cam locks with Teflon tape... I'm hoping I'll get lucky with this setup as well.

BigFloppy · Jan 28, 2015

What did you do with the PID's you took out of the original box? Thinking of selling them on?

augiedoggy · Jan 28, 2015

BigFloppy said:
What did you do with the PID's you took out of the original box? Thinking of selling them on?

There is oly two and one is being used in another build I'm making... I havent decided on what I'm going to do with the rex 100 yet... They are only like $14 shipped on ebay.

branman · Jan 28, 2015

deece said:
girlfriend ? Sounds like wife material.

+1

Marc77 · Jan 29, 2015

I'll be waiting for your list of materials so I can build one of these myself! Nice build!

augiedoggy · Jan 29, 2015

Next week I will be spending a lot of time stuck in a hotel room just outside of Toronto... I'll have plenty of time to put a list of materials and links together.

71westbrewing · Feb 12, 2015

the waiting is killing me

augiedoggy · Feb 12, 2015

71westbrewing said:
the waiting is killing me

lol SORRY! the training class I was away for ended up consuming more of my free time than I thought... I will have to work on this in increments I think.

augiedoggy · Feb 16, 2015

I'm going to post the supply links as I have time to dig them up since some of my ebay and amazon links are no longer valid from my original purchases being stretched back over a year ago...

First the enclosure I used which it avaliable at lowes or home depot. ($34)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1...-Box-E989R-UPC/100404149?N=5yc1vZbohnZ1z116nv

the pids I used which I got for $20 a piece shipped seemed to have gone up in price but heres two recent links one for $26 each and one for $31 including an ssr relay, I used these relays with no issues for almost a year (3 or them) but replaced two with a dual relay to save space recently.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-D...621?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20d8476745

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-PID-Te...387?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d0ff9dbb

Here is a link to the teledyne dual ssr I now use along with a fotek knockoff model.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321595660389?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Here are the heatsinks I used (tons of these on ebay and amazon) some come with screw if you dont want to make a trip to the store or seach through your screws...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Aluminu...830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f43af691e
I use a 12v 80mm pc fan mounted into the side of my enclosure for cooling but you could use a 24v fan or even mount the external heat sink on the top if you want to make it easier...

here are some links for switches and indicators I used. (I found I have the best luck by searching "22mm panel indicator " and sorting by price keep in mind they are cheaper in groups of 3 or 5)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360982219478?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121285591080?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Position-...850?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56511eddf2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Yellos-22...ignal-Light-/140922243645?hash=item20cf9eca3d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCs-12V-22...225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27e71bad19

here are some xlr connectors I used for my PT100 rtd probes.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281126349197?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I used these 3 pin ones for my temp probes

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-set-3-Pin...891?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2585bd902b

these are the heating element connectors to the panel I wish I used..they are rated for 25a . I bought them for a recent build and they are pretty nice...(The ones I used from mouser are ok but not as nice as they come unplugged easily.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321514587280?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Well I'm off to dinner will edit and add more info tonight.

augiedoggy · Feb 17, 2015

here are more switches from different sellers than I used since my ebay links are too old,
unlike the three position (on,off,on) switch I linked above these are just on and off but maintained so they do not spring back to off when you let go of the switch like a momentary switch..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-22mm-Se...825?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a37035d61

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-22mm-Se...880?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f880bc20

This one is momentary and I used this style it for my timer reset switch.

These are the relays I used because I already had them but the switching coil is 24v dc.... I used a $3 12v to 24v boost board to power them at first until I replaced all my 12v pumps with 24v versions , now I power them off the 24v powersupply I use for my pumps.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOT-7-OMRON...715?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d36cb93b.

I would recommend just purchasing a couple contractors if you dont plan on having a dc powersupply for dc pumps in your panel. like these which I purchased for another build. (choose the 220v/240v coil version for simplicity)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111399224493?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-22mm-Se...846?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27f880bbfe

If you do plan on having dc pumps and pwm controllers the Omron ones I linked above can also be found with 12v switching coils and will save space in the smaller enclosure.

Here is the volt/ amp meter I used ..very simple to wire up and works well ($9)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC100-300V-...647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c444479f7

here is the timer I used... its a two stage timer, ther make a 4 stage (quad) timer as well if you like to make beers with many hop additions it may be a better idea... heres the daul stage model below.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-240V-AC...971?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cc5dbd7eb

Here is the 4 stage timer (I'm tempted to upgrade to this myself)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KVV546/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

augiedoggy · Feb 17, 2015

As far as powering and controlling the speed of the DC pumps I used....

I recomment going with the 24v versions of these pumps instead of 12v. The 24v are more powerful. these pumps are food grade and rated for boiling temps. there are many sellers selling these. I have bought 5 from 5 different sellers and they are all identical with the same pps coated magnets .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36116338235...49&var=630516827839&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have used two different types of speed controllers for the pump motors (These are not needed but they are a safer and easier way to control pump speed and prevent stuck sparges in my opinion) they are very easy to wire up...power in and power out to pump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V...764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418d82efcc

These are slightly better in my opinion. You can find these much cheaper than this if you search.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HKFAIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These are a pretty nice alternative I just discovered and havent tried yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261678264066?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

for the main pump power switches I used these led illuminated switches. Just make sure to order the correct 12 or 24v switches or the light wont work. they are also available in many colors. (you need to solder or use small narrow spade connectors to install.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-16MM-R...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dbb79387

And finally power supplies....
if you are going with 12v all you need is a 2-3amp supply to run a couple pumps at once like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3A-DC-P...113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3378c8b349

I prefer this type, although I found a better 3 amp version for $8 shipped with some searching... keep in mind more amps wont hurt anything but each pump needs about 1 amp to run correctly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161285389741?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-25-12-Sup...849?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339dbb1201

I upgraded to 24v dc so I went with a 6 or 7 amp supply but this 5 amp would be more than enought to run all the pumps and relays and still power a dc fan to cool the ssr heatsinks...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-24V-5A-1...884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a32fe86cc

augiedoggy · Feb 17, 2015

Almost forgot the RTD pt100 temp probes...

I used these cheaper ones without the detachable connector at the probe end and while they worked fine I ruined one but catching the cable on a doorknob when moving the kettle to clean it so I recommend the ones in the last link below... they are easier to mount with the 1/2" base and quick disconnect. they are the same type of sensor that auger sells for about $40 only they are $20 direct.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-T...238?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58bc5a2c4e

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-Pt100-o...116?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item259775d24c

Better ones

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTD-PT100-T...963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item3a9ebb24db

I also recommend installing fuses for your pid/timer circuit which can all be powered off of a single 1/2amp fuse...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-Holder...087?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e88052f77

and here is something to protect the element power circuit. (I have yet to add this to mine)
you have many inexpensive options here like these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Siemens-3NW...824?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ad71a3100

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PACK-8-GA...011?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4171d0caa3

or something like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marathon-40...781?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d227dfc85
breakers can also be found for around $10 for this purpose...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271533564977?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

augiedoggy · Feb 17, 2015

oh yeah forgot about the main power cord gland nut. (wasnt added at the time of pictures).. I picked up the SJ cable at home depot ...Soow cable works fine too...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321445767878?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I also bought one of these at home depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...-SearchPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-202522482-_-N

thomasjr16 · Feb 17, 2015

Great compilation of links and "how-to". There a number of items that I wish I would have looked for cheaper now that I've gone through your links... Oh well, live and learn. Thanks for the time and input!!

augiedoggy · Feb 17, 2015

another item I purchased for a build that works well for manual boil control and has very nice build quality..($18 with shipping)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/140553987088?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

and I used this with it so I had accurate temp readout...(it requires 12vdc power)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251281000159?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

augiedoggy · Feb 17, 2015

Pictures of the flow output from my 24V dc pumps.... the orange locline pic is after traveling through the rims and flow meter and flow is just shy of 2 gallons per minute. the float switch is for fly sparging... keeps the level automatically...
Incase I hadn't mentioned it
The box at the base of my HLT is for a pwm speed controller for my stirring rod motor and also houses the wiring for a float switch which kills the element power if the water level drops to the level of the element.

thekraken · Feb 17, 2015

Subbed for this friggin catalog. Nice work!

augiedoggy · Feb 19, 2015

jawilhelm asked for pictures of my mash tun false bottom filtering setup..
here you go
theres water in it because I was experimenting with flow levels with while using a flow switch that will kill the rims heat if I get a stuck sparge.

jawilhelm · Feb 19, 2015

Awesome thanks for the setup photos!

thekraken · Feb 19, 2015

augiedoggy said:
jawilhelm asked for pictures of my mash tun false bottom filtering setup..
here you go
theres water in it because I was experimenting with flow levels with while using a flow switch that will kill the rims heat if I get a stuck sparge.

How did that level switch work out for you?

augiedoggy · Feb 19, 2015

thekraken said:
How did that level switch work out for you?

the float level switch in my mashtun works well for controlling my sparge pump.

The flow switch I just bought restricts my flow about a half gallon per minute and I dont like that... I'm looking for a lighter spring to replace the one it has now... besides that it will work great. I love the flowmeter though. It works well to see how well the wort is clearing up as I recirculate the mash as well.

augiedoggy · Feb 19, 2015

jawilhelm said:
Awesome thanks for the setup photos!

No problem, Good luck with your build!

jawilhelm · Feb 19, 2015

Did you use a standard 3/8" inner ss tube or smaller diameter?

augiedoggy · Feb 19, 2015

jawilhelm said:
Did you use a standard 3/8" inner ss tube or smaller diameter?

3/8 or 5 /16...I honestly cant remember...3/8 would be your best choice since it can vary in diameter when compressed vs stretched.

augiedoggy · Feb 27, 2015

schematix said:
What did you use to adapt from the BSP threads to NPT?

Ok , update on the flow switch... out of the box it restricted flow too much and did not reliably actuate So I modified the float by filing away some material. I also modified and ultimately ended up reversing the spring so it just prevents the float/actuator from traveling too far... now the switch actuates reliably with gravity , even with the pump at half speed and does not restrict flow more than .2
gallons per minute which is ok. now I just have to wire it into my rims ssr control circuit.

In short it should work very good as an added safety measure to both prevent dry firing and scorching in my rims.

thekraken · Feb 27, 2015

augiedoggy said:
Ok , update on the flow switch... out of the box it restricted flow too much and did not reliably actuate So I modified the float by filing away some material. I also modified and ultimately ended up reversing the spring so it just prevents the float/actuator from traveling too far... now the switch actuates reliably with gravity , even with the pump at half speed and does not restrict flow more than .2
gallons per minute which is ok. now I just have to wire it into my rims ssr control circuit.

In short it should work very good as an added safety measure to both prevent dry firing and scorching in my rims.

Cool! Can you post some pictures please?

After much debate about not using food grade materials I finally just decided to use one of those $10 plastic flow meters for this purpose, kill 2 (or 3) birds with one stone.

augiedoggy · Feb 27, 2015

thekraken said:
Cool! Can you post some pictures please?

After much debate about not using food grade materials I finally just decided to use one of those $10 plastic flow meters for this purpose, kill 2 (or 3) birds with one stone.

you can get the stainless flow switches (not the same as a flow meter) for $10 shipped as well...

Facelift for my control panel

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