Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

uuurang · Mar 4, 2007

Yo, flyguy, Thanks for the great idea on this mash tun. I assembled and built one myself. Haven't used it yet. Too much snow out back and the wife doesn't care for brewing indoors.

Of all the DIY mash tuns i've seen on the net yours has to be among the best. The parts list is complete and consistent. The Watts part #'s are great. The toughest part was locating a 10 gal. cooler, and locating stainless washers. I suppoose using a rectangular cooler would be cheaper and easier to find. I wonder if this setup would work as well on a 5 gal. cooler (much easier to find, imo)?

uuurang · Mar 4, 2007

Also,

What's your opinion on placing a 4-way brass junction halfway up stainless mesh screen and splitting another mesh screen perpindicular to original so as to increase mash efficiency? Probably wouldn't be worh the effort

TIA!

The Pol · Mar 4, 2007

Here is my new 10 gallon setup, with my 3 tier system. I cannot wait to fire this thing up!!! It is obviously the 3 tier system with the orange coolers on it... Through the wall therms are coming, waiting for parts to arrive.

http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u189/PolTavern/

Pol

kladue · Mar 4, 2007

If you want more coverage on the bottom, use a tee where the plug is and bring two braid arms back toward the outlet. You could use some bare #14 copper wire to hold the arms halfway between side and center braid or pull the arms together in the center for an X pattern for better coverage.

skifast1 · Mar 4, 2007

uuurang said:
I wonder if this setup would work as well on a 5 gal. cooler (much easier to find, imo)?

FWIW, it definitely works on a 2-gal Rubbermaid round cooler. I did this with the exact same hardware a few weeks ago. Stands to reason the 5-gal would be the same dimensions as well.

FlyGuy · Mar 4, 2007

uuurang said:
Also,

What's your opinion on placing a 4-way brass junction halfway up stainless mesh screen and splitting another mesh screen perpindicular to original so as to increase mash efficiency? Probably wouldn't be worh the effort

TIA!

I am sure this would work, but if you are going to go to the effort and expense, you might be better off building a CPVC manifold instead. It would work very well for both batch sparging and even fly sparging.

Another option is to use a 3-way connector (i.e. a T-connector) and use a longer braid that forms a loop in the cooler. I am sure that would be just as good as anything, and be really easy to build, too. Cheers! :mug:

FlyGuy · Mar 4, 2007

The Pol said:
Here is my new 10 gallon setup, with my 3 tier system. I cannot wait to fire this thing up!!! It is obviously the 3 tier system with the orange coolers on it... Through the wall therms are coming, waiting for parts to arrive.

http://s168.photobucket.com/albums/u189/PolTavern/

Pol

Very nice! Let us know how it works out for you. I will be especially interested since I will be using a similar setup -- I just won't have time to try it out myself for a while.

skifast1 · Mar 7, 2007

FYI - I got tired of scouring the local hardware stores for 5/8" stainless washers for my in-progress MLT's so I just got a bulk order online. If anyone wants some, i'll mail 'em to you for a buck apiece, postage included. Drop me a PM if you're interested.

Edit - all sold out, sorry!

TUCK · Mar 7, 2007

Wow thanks for the detailed tutorial.

Nice Job!

skifast1 · Mar 10, 2007

Yee-hah, count me as another member of the 10-gal Rubbermaid MLT club :ban:

Next up on the road to AG: A big honkin-pot!

ErikH · Mar 11, 2007

I had to go to 3 different HW stores to get all of the parts, but I got them all for less than $20. I couldn't find a SS 5/8" washer, but the last place I went had them in brass. As a matter of fact, they sold their brass washers by weight, and since 1 washer didn't even move the scale they gave it to me for no charge

. Now the only thing I'm missing is the Rubbermaid 10 gal. cooler. I hit all of the local mega-stores, but all they had were the 5 gal. A quick google search turns up a price of $75 for this cooler. Any idea where I might pick this up for cheaper? If not, I'll just go with a standard rectangular cooler. Again, thanks for the awesome parts list and illustrations!

FlyGuy · Mar 11, 2007

ErikH said:
I had to go to 3 different HW stores to get all of the parts, but I got them all for less than $20. I couldn't find a SS 5/8" washer, but the last place I went had them in brass. As a matter of fact, they sold their brass washers by weight, and since 1 washer didn't even move the scale they gave it to me for no charge . Now the only thing I'm missing is the Rubbermaid 10 gal. cooler. I hit all of the local mega-stores, but all they had were the 5 gal. A quick google search turns up a price of $75 for this cooler. Any idea where I might pick this up for cheaper? If not, I'll just go with a standard rectangular cooler. Again, thanks for the awesome parts list and illustrations!

Glad to hear you got the parts. I had a REALLY tough time finding 10 gal coolers here in Calgary, but lucked out and spotted 3 of them for $35 ea. Look to an early post in this thread by GFI for some sources:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=223775&postcount=16

Hope you find one. If not, a smaller rectangular cooler should work well, too. Just watch to not go too big with a rectangular cooler because the grain bed depth could get more shallow. Those Igloo cube coolers are probably best. Cheers! :mug:

Kadmium · Mar 11, 2007

So if I were to do the same thing over here in Australia

we have the rubermaid 45L coolers (10 gal) but I only do 5 gallon batches of around 1.040 - 1.065 will my grain bed be deep enough for a good batch sparge and not get stuck? and whats the efficiency going to be like?

:mug:

FlyGuy · Mar 11, 2007

Kadmium said:
So if I were to do the same thing over here in Australia we have the rubermaid 45L coolers (10 gal) but I only do 5 gallon batches of around 1.040 - 1.065 will my grain bed be deep enough for a good batch sparge and not get stuck? and whats the efficiency going to be like?

I can't answer from experience, but when I decided to make my 10 gal MLT, it was based on the general consensus of this site that a 10 gal cooler will serve you better than a 5 gallon one. Having said that, the main reason was to allow room for bigger grain bills (say 12 lbs and higher). If you don't think you will ever brew beers bigger than that, perhaps a 5 gallon is all you need.

I am actually thinking that I should have both a 10 gal (made that already) *AND* a 5 gal cooler MLT. For small to moderate grain bills, I would use the 5 gal MLT for mashing and the 10 gal as a hot liquor tank. For bigger beers or for 10 gal batches, I would use the 10 gal MLT for the mash, and the 5 gal MLT as a hot liquor tank. I am thinking this way because I am mostly limited to stove top brewing, although I intend to get a keggle (one) for 10 gal batches. Having two cooler MLTs would allow me to do a cheap 3-tier setup that is really flexible and easy to run. But I have to admit, I may need to think this through a bit still.

Cheers! :mug:

ErikH · Mar 11, 2007

A little more research has found that I can get the 10 gal. coolers for around $45.

I plan on batch sparging, where grain bed depth is not nearly as important as in fly sparging. My thinking is that the 10 gal. round cooler is not significantly larger in diameter than the 5 gal. and will be suitable for 5 or 10 gal. grain bills.

Kadmium · Mar 11, 2007

ErikH said:
A little more research has found that I can get the 10 gal. coolers for around $45.

I plan on batch sparging, where grain bed depth is not nearly as important as in fly sparging. My thinking is that the 10 gal. round cooler is not significantly larger in diameter than the 5 gal. and will be suitable for 5 or 10 gal. grain bills.

Thanks ErikH, and thanks FlyGuy, you both gave me enough confidence to go with the 10galon because, I like big beers

but I also like small beers, and with batch sparging I guess it doesnt make a difference! thanks again!

:mug:

skifast1 · Mar 12, 2007

FlyGuy said:
...I am actually thinking that I should have both a 10 gal (made that already) *AND* a 5 gal cooler MLT....But I have to admit, I may need to think this through a bit still.

FlyGuy - if it helps I was thinking the exact same thing this weekend. I'd say that's enough to validate the hypothesis

davarm · Mar 13, 2007

Does the external o-ring on your setup acutally make a seal? I have a Gott cooler, and it was manufactured a little different. There open space in the hole between the inside and the outside of the cooler. I was thinking of filling it with plumbers putty. I question whether an o-ring in my configuration would actually trap any liquid that is leaking around the brass nipple.

kbesch · Mar 13, 2007

FlyGuy-
I hope you know the Beer God's are toasting you right now. Great post on MLT, just what I was looking for. I am collecting parts now, have cooler, on my way to HD. Parts list and pics very valueable to me and I want you to know I appreciate your postings! Prost!!!!!

FlyGuy · Mar 13, 2007

kbesch said:
FlyGuy-
I hope you know the Beer God's are toasting you right now. Great post on MLT, just what I was looking for. I am collecting parts now, have cooler, on my way to HD. Parts list and pics very valueable to me and I want you to know I appreciate your postings! Prost!!!!!

Glad to hear that you found everything useful! Best of luck finding all the parts easily (those stainless steel washers were tough for me and a few others -- talk to skifast1 if you need one -- he bought a bunch and is selling them for $1 to anyone who needs one, postage included https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=235056&postcount=38).

Cheers :mug:

kbesch · Mar 13, 2007

Thanks again, I just sent an email concerning washers. It sounds like they are hard to find.

JohnBarleycorn · Mar 14, 2007

Thanks you Flyguy , been preparing to go all-grain and this will speed the process ! Im going to out today and buying all the parts and building it tonight .
Thanks !

CollinsBrew · Mar 22, 2007

The Pol- That shelving unit you bought, is that what you use for your 3-tier system? Do you run your lines around the shelves or through them? It looks like it would be fairly easy to drill a couple small holes to run the lines straight through the shelves since they are made of MDF. Also, did that shelving unit come with wheels or did you have to add them? If so, what kind of wheels did you get to fit onto the legs of the shelf?

I had already drawn my three tier system out and was going to use wood but this seems much easier and less time consuming considering my construction abilities are on the low. I also like the fact that it can come apart easily and be taken on the road for whatever reason if I wanted to.

FlyGuy- Are these the same exact parts you can use to install a bulkhead onto a stainless steel brew kettle? I didn't know if any of them had to be different for temperature purposes.

FlyGuy · Mar 22, 2007

CollinsBrew said:
Are these the same exact parts you can use to install a bulkhead onto a stainless steel brew kettle? I didn't know if any of them had to be different for temperature purposes.

No, I think for a boil kettle, you would want to use parts that withstand the higher temps -- particularly the o-rings. They should be silicone in a boil kettle.

Also, the bulkhead has to be a bit different because you don't have the depth of a cooler wall to go through. On a kettle, therefore, you should actually need FEWER parts. That is my next project (once I locate a keg). I actually bought the proper silicone o-rings already, and I will design a bulkhead to fit the keg once I have a keg in hand. The basic design will be similar, though, to the cooler.

ill.literate · Mar 22, 2007

Thanks Flyguy... we used this design on our 48 quart Coleman Xtreme conversion.

For the most part, it worked, but with some slight modifications, including a longer nipple (heh... I said nipple) and some flat rubber washers to stave off some leaks.

Also.. anyone having a hard time finding stainless washers should check with Ace Hardware. That's what the guys at the Depot told me... LOL .. and sure enough, they were there.

CollinsBrew · Mar 22, 2007

I figured that about the o-rings. Would I need to just find a smaller nipple to put through the kettle? That would be easiest I guess but wouldn't using more of the SS washers work the same with a kettle as with the cooler/mash tun to make a tight fit?

FlyGuy · Mar 23, 2007

Yes, you should be able to find a smaller nipple, and then elminate the washers on the outside. I used those only to tighten up the fit of the bulkhead. Just use as many or as few washers as you need.

You might also want to consider using 1/2" components instead of 3/8". They might be more stable on a kettle.

dblvsn · Mar 23, 2007

davarm said:
Does the external o-ring on your setup acutally make a seal? I have a Gott cooler, and it was manufactured a little different. There open space in the hole between the inside and the outside of the cooler. I was thinking of filling it with plumbers putty. I question whether an o-ring in my configuration would actually trap any liquid that is leaking around the brass nipple.

I bought a Gott cooler as well for my build. Assembled everything, filled it with water and have a small leak. Looks like its coming from behind the washers. Any ideas what could be done to seal up the leak? I was thinking about maybe just putting a bead of silicone around the washers on the front???

raceskier · Mar 24, 2007

The sealing should probably be accomplished on the inside. This will prevent wort getting into the gap between the inner and outer plastic walls. A good mechanic would diagnose and rectify the fit up issues. I, on the other hand use a lot of RTV.

skifast1 · Mar 24, 2007

raceskier said:
A good mechanic would diagnose and rectify the fit up issues. I, on the other hand use a lot of RTV.

Spoken like an authentic Jeep owner

Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

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