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What is your strike temp and how much does it drop to mash temp? With an unheated round 10 gallon I usually get about a 15 degree drop from strike to mash. The air temp, grain temp and batch size all have an effect on how much it drops. After that the temp usually only drops a degree or two at...

Cedar is sometimes used in Mamajuana. The rum picks up the aroma of cedar after only a week or so. It's good, although it kind of reminds me of a hope chest.

When is the last time you replaced any plastic buckets or rubber hoses? I had a weird off flavor pop up about a year or two into brewing. Replacing the buckets and hoses cleared it up.

Do any of the off flavors here sound similar?

Campden tabs are pretty cheap.

Any sediment/carbon tap water filter will make a huge improvement. I've used one of the Pur 2 stage faucet filters it was relatively cheap and works well.

Any yeast can go nuts without warning. It's not a bad idea to always use a blow off tube for the first few days of fermentation.

If you vacuum pack them they will hold up well.

Congrats! It's amazing how much difference fresh ingredients make.

It's good to taste it before and after so you get an idea for how the beer will change. After a while you'll know more of what to expect from the pre fermentation tastes.

IMO beer always tastes more bitter going into the fermenter than it does when it's finished. Do you know the AA% of the hops used? A few points of AA% at 60 minutes can make a huge difference.

I've never had issue with wheat malt. I crush it just as fine as the barley malt. If you do crush it finer make sure to use some rice hulls. I've single batch sparged and now double batch sparge due to space restriction and 10 gallon batches. My efficiency has gone up, but I can't say it's...

I would say the extra sparge and thin mash were the cause. I've noticed my efficiency improve when I mash thicker. In the 1.1 - 1.25 range. I don't seem to gain all the points back during the boil that were lost due to more sparge volume either. The mash time and temp shouldn't effect...

Having a bar converted to a brewpub for less than a barrel in beer sales per week is unlikely. Having your beer brewed by another brewery is a good way to start. The major up front costs are kegs and ingredients. The distribution process might not be too bad if the brewery has a good...

You can add water to the mash in order to get more first running, but you have to thin the mash to do so. If you want to keep a thick mash adjust your sparge amount instead.

I multiply the grain amount in pounds by .12 to get the absorption rate and it's usually pretty close. Example: 12.5 x.12 = 1.5 gallons absorption I get 3.9 for the strike as well. So I would subtract the absorption from the strike. Example: 3.9 - 1.5 = 2.4 first running You lose a little bit...

I usually lose about 15 degrees from strike water to mash. If this is the first mash on your new set up. Make sure to write down how much the temp drops for next time.

That's gonna make things much more difficult.

Certain states allow self distribution with restrictions, usually according to production numbers and on premises sales. Does GA require you to go through a distributor?

He might, but other places probably won't. Kegs are expensive :(. You pay taxes on every barrel you produce. Plus energy costs. You'll need a glycol unit to chill all the fermenters. There are allot of costs that start to add up. You sound serious so I wish you luck. Just be sure...