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If the screen lights up, turn the potentiometer more times than you think you need to and likely you'll get the data to display. I've had to turn upwards of 20 revolutions.

Unfortunately, those are notorious for having problems. Bypass the switch and fuse and just use the plug portion of the unit. Unplug the unit to turn it off.

Yep, you definitely need a chamber sensor. That's the only one you need, but better to have both the beer and chamber sensors.

For the record, my contribution was to put everything on the board so Lee could then move everything where he wanted, and then to channel my inner Dave by telling him to beef up the GND and 5V traces.

I'm going from memory and it has been a couple of years, so cut me some slack if I remember this incorrectly, but...when I set one of my minions up via bluetooth, it was rather straightforward. Use the automated workflow and get your device working through the normal USB approach. Once it is...

Yep, everything should work the same on the shield as it did on this schematic. As for the LED's, hook one side up to the B-C post and the other side to the header pin on the LED header on the shield. There is an associated pull up resistor on the shield to complete the schematic. Should work...

All of my intermittent probe issues have been from a cruddy power supply. Yours may not be, but check that. You shouldn't be getting any drops.

Check out this info from Elco. https://community.brewpi.com/t/ssr-always-on-off-depending-on-inverted-not-inverted-setting/2254

I think that is incorrect. When pin 5&6 call for heating and cooling, it will provide 5v to the SSR. Hook up ground and 5 or 6 to each SSR. Fuzzee's diagram includes the 5v because the relay board needs power. I believe the problem is that you have them as inverted when they should be...

I get a kick out of seeing my beer stay within .1 degree of my set temp. Looks like quite a swing, but check out the scale of the graph.

Google is going to issue you a cease and desist order if you continue to call the camera aimed at the nest a nestcam. [emoji16]

When you first start up the ESP, it is in a special mode like @day-trippr mentioned. It is made to act like a wifi network. Power it up and then grab your phone and use the wifi feature to connect to the ESP like you're access a wifi network in a coffee shop or something. Then open a webpage...

Yup, that too. [emoji16]

Before, RaspberryPints would install in the default Apache folder. Then you'd install each BrewPi instance into a subfolder of the default directory, say Chamber1, Chamber2, etc. You'd then access 'Pints in the default localhost location and the various BrewPi instances by adding a /Chamber1...

So, um, not to ask the guy who is doing all of the work to do extra work, but...with your new slick installer, do you get the option of where to install the brewpi files so that there isn't a conflict with other Apache programs like RaspberryPints? That would be awesome.

Nope, that's really your only option. You can separate all of the wires to make it more flexible, but that makes it a pain to hook up. You can also ditch the middle four wires because they are not needed, but again, using all of them makes it easier to align the wires.

One does not simply walk into Mordor...

Nope, you're correct that you can't have multiple chamber probes on the same UNO. You'll need a separate UNO for each chamber that you want to control, with probes and relay connected to each. Then you can hook all of the UNOs up to one Raspberry Pi.

I'm intrigued by your setup. Why do you have two Raspberry Pis running? Is there something specific about your setup that precludes you from having both UNOs running off of one Pi?

I appreciate you reinvigorating the BrewPi environment, Lee. It is especially cool to see the multiple chambers running on one webpage!