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My electric glasstop range heats my beakers fine. However, It's a bloody mess if it boils over, you think it goes up fast in a pot...hell.

I think repitching is great, but when you used washed yeast, well I make a starter to ensure the viability of each culture, and it will at least let you know that you are getting to around a good pitch rate. I just buy a 3 pound bag of DME, and keep it handy, it will last you forever for...

Id just make a starter, you don't need much equipment. You just need a glass jug, (doesn't even technically need to be glass), and some light dme. Then shake it if you don't have a stir plate.

There are others with more experience, but I have been going crazy with starters lately. A few things, first, don't worry about an airlock with a stopper, the yeast want oxygen, and you don't care if it gets oxygenated...it's a starter. Make it an optimal environment for the yeast, not for...

There is actually an equation: While waiting for active fermentation, the amount of beer you drink constitutes a parallel decrease in the amount of time you perceive waiting to be.

After I voted, I mean to say at least...It depends, if I am using dry packs, or smack packs, or vials, how old, etc. I just make one, when I don't have enough yeast for an adequate pitch.

My friend runs one, and does 15 bbl. He propogates his own yeast. From White Labs Cultures originally. Just imagine larger step starters. EDIT: Generally a master culture split into several vials, and those vials propagated.

I calculate with a spreadsheet. First I take the grain points and get my potential points per gallon, approximate my actual using my estimated mash efficiency. I do a separate calculation for saccharide additions, many programs will pit your efficiency (estimated) against all additions. Truly...

Well 83% is lofty. WLP550 will get there, but won't taste that much like a Kolsch I wouldn't think. If you use a Kolsch yeast you'd be doing good to hit 75-77. Fermentability of the wort will have a direct compounded effect on Yeast Attenuation. If you mash at a bit lower temperature you can...

Not too long. I usually do about 15-20 light rolling and account for wort lost to evap.

Most likely, a higher temperature mash will lead to a less fermentable wort. There are a bevy of factors that affect attenuation though. Beersmith estimates an attenuation based on averages for yeast. So if your strain attenuates at 65-70 % it may do 67.5. Then it takes into account the...

-Yes, you should try to keep the temperature around 67 I would suggest. You have to remember that at the beginning stages you have a lot of exothermic heat from yeast activity, this will have died down, so your beer's temperature will probably be about the same as the ambient. During your...

Some tastes in some styles of belgians are desired with the yeast between 76 and 78 or so. Ommegang is fermented at 79 degrees. Of course that has to do with your yeast strain as well. Many will say skip the secondary, I personally do one, but many would tell you it is not necessary. I still...

I think more this. Give or take a little design difference.

Since a polycarbonate plastic there is possibilities that it can leech, and it is not completely non-porous (at least at a very small level). Which makes them a bit more difficult to clean. Right now people are pressuring the water industry to use #1 or #2 PET plastic, Polyethelene. There are...

Anything could be a fermentation or conditioning vessel. The Better Bottles and such are more specifically made for for brewing because they are a higher grade of food grade plastic (PET), meant to keep oxygen out, and minimize or eliminate leeching. I would think it would be fine, but maybe...

Most fridges reside at about 38 degrees, this is plenty cold enough to make them dormant I believe.

The yeast produce esters as they ferment, if you pitched at 90 and it cooled down relatively quickly, you probably didn't have hardly any if any fermentation take place during this high temperature time. It may have stressed or killed some yeast, but I wouldn't think too bad anyways. Now that...

As said above Liquid cultures don't really come with a high cell count, and they are less viable as time goes on. If you take one liquid vial and split it into two, you may be great for your small volumes. You may even need to do like a 250-500ml starter for each. Just use a yeast pitching...

forget the airlock, and the rubber carboy cap, or take the carboy cap and get a 1 inch hole in it and use 1 inch tubing (fits snug in most). Basically increase the size of your tubing. :) I wouldn't worry about it, if it blew your cap off, there was a lot of built up pressure, it is forcing...