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+1 75%+ attenuation is easy with 002/1968 if you let it warm up before it flocs. People report weird peach notes for US-05 when fermented in low 60's, could that be what your tasting?

The first sign was "This yeast has proven to be great in IPAs." Since Magic Hat has never proven to make decent IPA's, I will deduce that whatever the source it's not them. ;)

+1 for bin or wash tub with water and frozen bottles. And I suppose you could insulate the whole thing with the styrofoam to keep it colder a little longer.

I really prefer 090 over 001, but I've only used 1st generation just because I don't get to brew often enough to bother re-using it.

I think the real key to faster beer is in clarification. For me, a cold crash as close to 32F (the colder without freezing the better) as I can for a couple days makes a big difference; especially if combined with gelatin. It's about the best homebrewers can hope for without a centrifuge or...

+1 - I thought red blood cells as well. Yeasty pebbles when you want breakfast cereal instead of WLP002's egg-drop soup.

+1 to trying it out and see for yourself if you notice a difference. Water and yeast aren't as publicized and sexy as the latest designer hop or malt, but they can be the difference between okay beer and being as good as (or better than) what you can buy.

Yes Yes it's good idea to do a diacetyl rest with this yeast.

Ironically the only time I experienced the mysterious black specks was in a conan yeast bottle (from one of the other sources); I never used the yeast because of them so I can't tell you if it really is an issue or not. I would contact White Labs about it and see what they say.

It's a label of something. You can read letters on the "piece of grass" at top left. You know the malt is on the inside of the can right? :ban:

Also the attenuation numbers provided by the yeast companies do not mean you cannot get beers that fall well outside that range. They use specific in house tests, that are mostly for comparing attenuation between that one, specific company's yeast products and not necessarily real world...

Are you using a hydrometer to get the final gravity readings? If you use a refractometer the readings are only accurate with unfermented wort. However, there are calculators though that let you convert refractometer readings to final gravity. http://www.northernbrewer.com/refractometer-calculator/

My googling abilities are 0 for 2; couldn't find a place to purchase either :(

Some quick googling and I can't find anyone selling the Fermcap NT. Any sources?

No Star San is phorphoric acid based. Most city water uses Chlorine or Chloramine; are you using city water? Do you carbon filter it if so?

I often use in starter, boil and fermenter, but I keep it below the limit for the batch. 1 drop (maybe 2 tops) really should be plenty for starter. I usually only need 2-4 drops for boil (5.5gal batch) and then 3-4 drops into fermenter. I've never needed to go to the upper limit, it has never...

Are you rehydrating the dry yeast prior to pictching? This has been shown to have a major effect on viability and yeast health. And fermentation temperature also has a big effect on needed cells, what temperature are you fermenting what strains at? What are the "problems associated with...

With Mrmalty 50% viability is nearly 2 year old dry yeast. Is the yeast you are using really 2 years old? No yeast calculator is perfect, but you should be using the date of the yeast you are using to determine how old the yeast is, not assuming it's 50% viable. If you are just arbitrarily...

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/anyone-haerd-these-new-yeasts-mangrove-jacks-new-zealand-406644/ Not sure where you are located, but plenty of places in the USA carry these.

I've never liked Beersmith's yeast calculations. Brewer's Friend and YeastCalc both show 608 billion as how much you have. That's the Probrewer 1.25 (Ale, or High Gravity Ale) recommended rate. So your on the high range, but still within the recommended for high gravity. 1.25M cells x 1ml x...