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found it. a tiny crack on the back of the regulator body. didn't see the soap bubbles the first time around since it was up against the back of the fridge.

I've been trying to diagnose a slow leak in my keg system. I have a dual gauge regulator with a 4-way manifold from KegConnection.com that worked flawlessly until about 3 months ago. It usually takes about 4 months for me to go through one 7lb tank, but the last tank kicked in just two...

Is your dip tube all the way up against the side of the kettle? If so I'd say you've got the right approach with the whirlpool just maybe let it settle for 10-15 minutes after whirlpooling before trying to rack to your fermenter. I've tried hop spiders and hop bag of various sorts and never...

Have you tried the Bru'n Water spreadsheet? Your local water district probably has a water quality report online that you could use to input all of what it needs, then put your whole grain bill into it and play with the various adjustments

Stainless is perfect for fermenting

Is your pot SS or aluminum? If it's stainless you could etch the volume markings on the inside of the kettle for all of $3 for a battery and some qtips. Search the forums for the stainless etching thread for more details (sorry I don't know how to link to the thread from the mobile app).

I've taken to fermenting in my old bottling bucket because I like being able to rack my beer out of the bottling tap right to the purged keg through the dip tube (by jamming the end of the vinyl tubing over the threads on the out post of the keg). I ran into a problem with the bottling port...

I had a more minor problem with my center inlet chugger that I fixed by finally putting oil in the oil spot. Have you tried that?

Cool thanks! Would you do multiple whirlpool additions or just dump it all in at knockout? Also, based on what I've read, beersmith's IBU calculations will stop working for the whirlpool additions once the wort drops below 170F (since the AA will no longer be isomerizing) since they use an...

Has anyone brewed an IPA with all the hop additions coming from whirlpool/steep additions? Is this a bad idea? Thanks! Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 7.54 gal Post Boil Volume: 6.24 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal Bottling Volume: 5.25 gal...

1800W element Stainless bulkhead for copper thermowell (fits Ranco temp probe) Stainless valve, bulkhead & male camlock Sight glass I'm looking to recoup the costs of the parts less depreciation. Make me an offer on either. Thanks for looking!

Mash tun: slotted copper manifold, stainless fittings, loc line return, digital thermometer stuck through a drilled bung (this piece may have leaked a little liquid into the insulation at some point because when the tun gets up to temperature there is some swelling of the interior wall, it does...

reposted

Yes they're both still up for grabs

Selling my used mash tun and electric cooler HLT because I'm switching over to keggles. Pics and descriptions are on craigslist. I can ship them if you want. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/for/5218721499.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/for/5218692088.html Thanks for looking!

I've got my cooler mash tun and HLT up for sale on ebay. They have served me well and I'm only selling because I came upon some kegs and I'm converting to a keggle MLT and HLT. Mash Tun: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191679332473?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 HLT...

Have you checked out the RIMS kit from BrewHardware.com? It works well for me.

+1

I'm pretty sure that it only matters if you are fly sparging. I used to batch sparge and I'd open the vale full on to drain the tun between sparges. I would get 80-85% mash efficiency with this method.

Did you use Irish moss or whirlflock? My lighter beers always pour a bit cloudy for the first week or so. Sent from my iPad using Home Brew