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Stoichiometric

I totally screwed up a clone kit for UBU I had bought when I first started brewing. Never got to try it, but here is the recipe for it. 5 gallon batch 11 lbs Marris Otter 1.5 lbs White Wheat 1 lb Crystal 60L 1 oz chocolate malt 1 oz black patent mash 150f 1.25 qt/lb for 60 min 1...

Promo Code please.

I use a small crockpot without the bowl inserted. It's 90watts(16cubic ft freezer) and works great on a st1000 controller. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

If everything is sanitized I'd put it in the bucket and not worry about it, pitch tomorrow. I usually let my wort sit in my ferm chamber overnight to get stabilized to the temp I want it, I oxygenate and pitch in the morning. Never had a problem. Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I would shake it up.

I would buy 10 bags of specialty malts.

I've had that before just yeast or trub settling and sticking to the side.

From the Palilalia IPA recipes I find online it looks like all NB at 60 and the cascade at 1 min. Not sure about bringing back up to a boil after extract addition, I'm all grain Hops in the cooling wort is fine

Wouldn't the grain bed filter be set upside down then?

I dry hop right in my primary fermenter, I see no need to move it to secondary.

Thank you both for your knowledge, I'm going to rack it and only add the metabisulfate.

I'm more of a brewer but was hoping for an answer with a wine kit. I've got a chardonnay kit that has set long enough after one racking that it is perfectly clear, the next step that I was supposed to do a while ago was to add potassium metabisulfate and potassium sorbate, stir, and then add...

When I first got the 5l I filled it with water to check that and it it has plenty of stirring power for a 4l starter in my opinion.

I've used my 5l flask on my regular stir starter and it works fine. It overhangs but seems stable enough to me. I've seen a picture on here somewhere where someone built side that were the same height as the stir starter because the were nervous of the overhang.

I haven't run any numbers in beersmith, but what about less pearl and a longer boil to get to the SRM and more sugar to get the ABV up and dry out the beer. I'm only half following this thread so maybe this has already been discussed or maybe I'm off with my thinking.

Longer boil would give you more carmelization and a higher SRM.

I agree with Stauffbier.

I had a batch of oatmeal stout from one of my first batches that I had the same trouble with. The final gravity was high but stable for a month in the fermentor before bottling. I didn't really like the beer so they sat around for a while before starting to explode. I was nervous loading them...

It should have that indicator on the front.