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Should be, yes. You could use a mechanical relay for both as well. With as few cycles as they will see a mechanical relay will hold up fine. You could probably save some cash over SSR's.

AJ, Just curious, is this enough off vertical to be seen with the naked eye?

I think the SSR's should be in parallel, not series. So take the output of the wall wart and the float switch directly to each SSR. Two individual paths, not a loop.

Not really on the topic, but start tasting! Even a couple times through the mash. You can learn a lot about what is going on with your wort/beer. Now back to your regularly scheduled program.

It will take a long time. The thermal mass of the inside of the fridge is relatively low. True, it's -5 or whatever in there, but it won't take a lot of heat to pull that temp up. Once the temp in the fridge is up a little, it will take a while for it to cool back down. Remember, the...

Disclaimer - I have not read Yeast, so if they call it a Forced Fermentation Test in there, I apologize. I'd be surprised if that was the case though.

This is not a Forced Fermentation Test. Forced Fermentation Test is when you pull a small sample (like this) and grossly overpitch it. The point is to be able to determine what the FG will be quickly. This might be used to know when to add additional sugars, nutrients, etc. You are...

Agreed. With low power devices it is no problem. I typically try to daisy chain "down" in current draw. So that the highest draw device is nearest the source and the lowest current device has to go through the most connections. I wouldn't run your heating element daisy chained off...

I'd use tap water to ~100 degrees, then switch to pumped ice water. Grab a cheap pond pump from Harbor Freight (don't forget your 20% off coupon) and you will be set up for under $30 or so.

Yeah, I'd worry about flux core wire, if it were solid like maybe SS Tig wire, you'd have been fine. There's as many different kinds of welding wire as there are types of beers! Solid copper is a good bet. You'll be safe with that no doubt.

Depends. There are many many different "welding wires" be specific about what you used and we might can answer.

Yep. Go ahead and get the probe in some storage solution. Keep it in there any time you are not using it.

He MIGHT have hurt himself. Oxygen would just make the match burn up real fast. It will not "explode". Hydrogen wouldn't have stayed in the jar. Acetylene, probably not a good idea, but it would have been a really really rich mixture, so it probably would have gone "poof" and then...

Yeah, Nitrogen is about 5k and Argon is usually around 2-3k. Both are stored as a GAS, not a LIQUID like CO2. They have to run tank pressure way up to get much volume in there. Also, expelling liquid to make dry ice won't prove that you have CO2. You can make 'dry ice' with propane and lots...

Relax. Clean the bottles, don't stress over it. If there aren't chunks in there, sanitize and bottle.

Yeah, they do look nice and clean. Even if you don't use the connector end though, it's still a good deal to buy them like that. The plug will run you ~$15 alone. I'd get the cords off eBay and just throw the unused connector in the trash!

Watch Ebay for 10/3 power cords. I picked up 3 15' cords with Hubbel L6-30 ends (plug and connectors) for $60 shipped. I'll use a short pigtail from the control panel with the connector on it and a long pigtail from the kettle with the plug on it.

No.

With this switch and that element, I don't think so. Not without getting really creative. You'd be better to use a switch to enable the PID output to the SSR or something like that and a separate indicator light, or a combo switch/light that has individual circuits.

This looks good. One worry I have is that it is going to be difficult to tune the PID if you adjust the "power" knob. Say you autotune at 100% power, then tune down to 50% power later. I'm not sure how much authority the Fuzzy Logic has over the PID settings, you may not hold temps like...