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I was in Colorado recently and had a wet hop Strata beer at Outer Range. It was the best commercial IPA I've had in ages. Massive saturated hop flavor that blew my mind.

When I transfer to the fermenter, I filter through a brew bag to remove hops.

I would try dry hopping for 3 days at 70F. In my experience, you won't get as good of extraction at those low temps for 2 days.

Alright, I had to crack a bottle. Maybe a little early because it's a tad undercarbonated, but holy crap this is good. Honestly I cannot think of a commercial TIPA I've had that is better. The crazy thing is it has transformed COMPLETELY from the gravity sample. I've been brewing these IPA's...

I agree, I'm sure the hops are fine. They don't degrade that quickly when sealed and never opened.

I usually do 2 gallon batches. So it equates to around a half gallon. By the way, I just tasted the tripel yesterday and it is fantastic. I fermented this one at 72 and it's not too phenolic for me.

Hmm probably about 3 inches.

I've fermented with it as low as 68 and that didn't stop it.

I just finished fermenting this. OG was 1.094 and FG 1.020 using my 3 year old strain of 1318 :) I also swapped the Riwaka and Nelson for Mosaic and El Dorado. The gravity sample was surprisingly dank, but it tasted like it will be a upper tier TIPA once finished. That overripe sweetness I get...

WLP530 is the only yeast I've used that has blown off every time I've used it. I even added some Fermcap last time and it still couldn't stop it. You can't stop it, you can only hope to contain it :)

Add dry hopping in a large bag to the list. When I do that combined with hard crashing, I get no hop burn. No need to do the rest on your list.

Cold beer on the dry hop is fine in my experience. I have never gotten any off flavors from that. The key is to make sure it warms back up for a few days (3 works best for me) while on the hops. My current process is cold crash to 37F for 2 days, dry hop and let warm back up to ~70F for 3 days...

I've revived year old yeast a few times. It always takes a few days to get going, but they will come back to life.

Here is my latest using the suggestion by @stickyfinger to hard crash, warm up for the dry hop (low 70's F), and cold crash again before packaging. I can say this is my favorite method so far. I had brewed this same exact beer a few weeks prior using a soft crash and dry hop at 60 F. That one...

I have mine going on 3 years now. I'm not sure how many batches that is, but probably around 10-15. I always do an overbuilt starter. It's performing and tasting exactly the same as what I remember when fresh.

I tried the barleywine yesterday and 1318 did the job well. Not sure how much character is coming from the yeast, but it has a nice dark cherry / stone fruit flavor. Nicely balanced. It even carbonated fine after 2 weeks.

I only tasted the hydrometer sample so far. I plan on trying a bottle this weekend though. It finished quite high (1.107 -> 1.036) but I had a 2 hour boil and 10% crystal malts so I think that may be why. It was not cloying at all in the sample. White Labs lists English barleywine as a style...

1318 is fine for an English style barleywine. I was in your same dilemma recently. Only yeast I had on hand was 1318 so I decided to use it for my English barleywine. Came out around 10% which is what I was aiming for. I bet you could get more than 10% out of it if you pitch enough and...

Didn't know that! I've been searching for Denali too. Had a good NEIPA with Denali a while ago from Roughtail and it was a pineapple bomb.

I always filter through a BIAB bag when transferring to the fermenter. You don't need to use a hop spider when doing it that way too, which may help with extraction.