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Haha If you want to get technical sure! Usually i dont worry about that, i dump the grains in a while before i even hit start :-P Maybe its time for me to build an auger system for the grains:)

Hey Jimmy, Yep i use float switches, 2 in the HLT, 1 in boil, and one in mash. I find it easier to batch sparge personally. Since i dont need to babysit the thing i can be inside watching TV, or chilling with the kiddo! also floats have made the programming side a bit lighter for me which is...

Thanks Man! I thought it was a nice touch:)

This:) . ^^^

Was the pump running the whole time? judging by where the HERMS coil is mounted, and your three way valve, if the water level in the mash tun is above the water level in the HLT, then with the pump off it will flow that way until the level equalizes. Let me know Matt

I have a mechanical stir arm as well so i may not be the greatest example, but i run my chugger pump full bore and i consistently hit 90s for efficiency

long time reader, I figure i should post what im working with here. (video below) I use a 60A Panel, 11,000 watts in both the HLT and BK The panel is controlled by a BCS462 ran through a WIFI router client I use a 3GPM pump to recirculate the HLT to stop stratification I use a worm gear motor...

Here is my current rig, full auto except for adding hops<p> Full auto wet test by FourSwitch posted Oct 7, 2018 at 9:55 PM

Full brew day from kettle fill to fermenter fill, (just with water this time). The future is now

The blichman riptide was still around the 7-8GPM range as is the chugger, i would see no issue with running it full out. also to be totally honest i feel that at our scale Hot side aeration has become a much larger boogyman than we need to worry about:)

Let er go 100% you will get a much more even temperature throughout the mash by moving more volume, as well as much more steady heating of the mash.

i prefer cans, its the ideal environment for beer, no chance of light, no chance of oxygen sneaking in through a bottle cap, lightweight, flavour neutral, and in my opinion the perfect vessel for beer. as a home brewer i use bottles and growlers simply cause i don't have the means to can, but...

i usually only sit for two reasons......... 1. I'm just way too drunk... 2. its the middle of the night and i don't wanna wake up too much

15 gallons of Pale Ale

are the temps stable with the system dry and at room temp? (if the thermistor is bad it should be 12 degrees out still at room temp) might just be a thermistor that needs replacement. other thoughts are if you took that measurement right at the start of mash and the rims tube was still room temp...

^this

i haven't done a pressurized fermentation but worst case i would imagine you could just stir or agitate the heck outta your sample until its flat, then take a proper reading, or leave it out overnight.

i currently use an A419 for my temp control and with quasi-vigorous recirculation i can pretty easily stay within 2 F Degrees, at a glance it looks like the code there will be doing almost exactly what my little controller does so id bet on it being successful:)

I've decided in 2018 i am going to start brewing more for competition, than just for myself and my drunken teamsters. Just looking for any advice from you guys even on how you submit your bottle (glass or plastic?) to categories picked (if strategic or not i dunno). anyways any advice may save...

I've just been diagnosed as colourblind.. I know, it sure has come out of the purple