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I just tossed it in at flameout and then went to get a fresh beer. I figured it steeped for ten minutes before I managed to get the temp to change from kicking on the chiller.

Oooh I hadn't thought that far through. So a fermentation chamber that adjusts the ambient to keep the beer constant... I don't know how I missed that before. There is even more to do.

The way I look at it is thusly - Imagine how a cake would turn out of your oven fluctuated between 300 - 450 degrees? Some people will disagree with that range but let's look at WLP-001. It has an optimum temperature range of 6 degrees (68-73 F)...

I've been meaning to come back to this thread. I used the original recipe without the dry hop (forgot to buy some extra mosaic). This is probably one of my three favorite beers ever. I actually find myself salivating when I think about cracking open a bottle. It is just that damn good. I'm...

Ok folks. I don't contribute much to this site but today I cracked open the last of my first batch of beer made over a year ago. Damn was it amazing. Whenever I tell anyone I brew beer in my garage they always ask, "it is any good?" I always tell them that is better than good, it is great...

if temperature control is taken care of then +1 on the grain mill. Brings your cost per batch significantly down. I brew at 8,500 feet above sea level and found that o2 make little to no difference other than what appears to be a shorter period for fermentation taking off. I often forget to...

Hold up! I ferment US-05 all the time in the high 60's ambient that get into the low 70's actual and never have it taste off. In fact the published range for US-05 is 53-77 with ideal being 59-71.6. http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SFA_US05.pdf Seriously, do not dump...

Some thoughts: 1. If it is a full extract kit you should be able figure it out by using kit targets and adjusting for volume. Kinda hard to miss them with extract since you're not getting much out of the steeping of specialty grains. 2. Gravity readings are hard when you are going partial boil...

When you buy a bomber at the liquor store - for the bottle.

Not to spam but consider #1 on that Top 100 list. So good! There is an extract version posted about 10 comments in. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=42841

Instead of buying the second carboy - buy an oxygen aeration system. You'll hardly ever rack to a secondary. I live at 8,885 feet up!

A must read for a new brewer: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/homebrewtalk-top-homebrew-recipes-24-1.html I'd also suggest going extract or partial mash for first brew. A 5 gallon BIAB can require heating around 9 or so gallons of water initially. Doubtful you have the pot for that and a stove...

Holy smokes dude! If there was one suggestion I could make to a brand new brewer it would be start out using a good established recipe or kit and follow it to a T. First off, it will give you a frame of reference. OG. FG. Etc. but second you will know what the outcome is supposed to taste like...

No idea if this is right but I usually top off to 5.5 gallons when I pour to my primary. I figure with trub loss I'll end up with 5 gallons.

Fellow noob here. I went extract -> partial mash -> BIAB. The one thing I'd suggest is maybe start out with BIAB and forgo the cooler/mash tun. If you're doing 5 gallon batches I'd get a bigger pot (say 15 gallons). Oh two more things not in the kit: 1. StarSan sanitizer 2. Pack of Camden...

If you are dealing with those temps - brew Saisons... They like the higher temps.

Hmmm so I imagine putting my carboys on a rough slate floor would really be playing with fire... Super good to know!

Sure sounds like a partial mash to me from the destructions. OP: what are the grains?

Glass carboys but there is a bucket in my future

This forum rocks. I've only asked a few questions but mined the living snot out of the forum for info.