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In my experience with this yeast, it ferments VERY vigorously and makes my fermentation chamber turn on more than any yeast I've used so far. Those without active/adequate fermentation control may get undesired flavors due to the liquid temp getting out of control. I like it.

Full volume mashing is much easier than sparging, but you definitely will need a bigger mashtun for larger gravity beers. On my old system there was approximately a 10% loss of efficiency, but mash PH, one less kettles, and not dealing with an extra volume of water and temperature adjustment...

I never mashed out once, and after some experience I was able to consistently predict the FG of the beer. As long as you keep the steps exactly the same, every batch and every time, the results will become easy to predict with careful notes. With my new RIMS setup I will start implementing...

I absolutely recommend Speidel and upgrade it with NorCalBrewingSolutions stainless fittings. With their stuff I was able to get my Speidels to: Install Liquid and Gas corny keg posts do pressurized transfers Co2 purge the fermentor Install a thermowell for precise fermentation You can even do...

Still looking :) Preferably without built-in cooling or that sort of things - just the bare conical. Thanks!

I never used flow-control taps, so unfortunately I can't advice on that. You can try 9psi at that temp and see how you like the carbonation - you might want more or less. Once you find the c02 volume you like then can start cutting line length if it flows too slow. It's easier to start long and...

Line Length depends on the temperature and PSI you will be pushing the beer out at. Also note that Bev-Seal line is glass-lined and has less friction than regular vynil hose, so you will need more. You can start out with a longer line and cut away until you find the length that works for you...

A lot of the hate probably comes from: 1. Newbies tend to have a malt bill of about 10 different crystal malts initially (a bit of an exaggeration ;)) and get told to cut it back 2. It appears that mostly everyone wants to brew IPAs and you don't really want too much crystal malts to let the...

Interested in any stainless conical with triclover fittings such as SS Brewtech, Blichmann, MoreBeer, Spike, Etc. that are 10 gallon but under 1/2 barrel in volume. PM me if you have any near Los Angeles and will pick up. Thanks! -Frank

It may be entirely brewing process that's causing the off-flavor you described. The only thing (flaw) I ever pick up from dry yeast is a more pronounced "tang" flavor - I'm very sensitive to tart/tangy flavors so this could be why. However I also get this from liquid yeast and even commercial...

That's the Hürlimann strain and in the Saaz lager yeast category, so it should be the opposite and not ferment well warm. I got this info from a Brulosophy podcast some weeks ago and the discussion was lager yeasts and warm vs cold for some strains. Personally, I have used S-189 at 57 degrees...

I cold crashed 3 lagers one time and it didn't really do anything in terms of clarity. Now I just keg and give them a month or so and they start to clear up automatically without the need to crash or fine with gelatin. I'm not going to do it again. Oh, and you run the risk of oxidation due to...

I love my Speidel 7.9 gallon fermenters upgraded with fittings from www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com I have a thermowell and ball-lock keg posts on them and makes transferring SO easy and fermentation control a breeze. Durable and easy to clean and will not shatter like glass carboys can.

1.026 OG is incredibly low for a pale ale. Are you using a hydrometer? Sounds like the wort was over-diluted.

Water treatment with lots gypsum vs lower chloride ratios will help make the hops pop, and plenty of co2 of it's a traditional West Cost IPA. As for malts, you're off best staying with all base malts such as Pilsner or regular 2-row to emphasize hops.

It's got a watermelon-candy like flavor with notes of berry, but as others have said, it can get lost in a mix and need to be a little heavy-handed with it. I'd pair it with a classic citrusy hop or other fruity hops.

Before you tackle oxidation from dry hops, are you completely confident that your beer racking/transferring/bottling is sound and introduce minimal oxygen? Oxygen intake is usually much greater from those and bottling is specially known to be more prone to oxidation vs transferring to a keg. I...

Yup that's normal. Are you using US-05 yeast? It usually makes large clumps like that when fermenting. Cheers

Question, did you do a full 5 gallon boil? Or did you add water to bring up the volume to 5 gallons? It doesn't sound like you extracted much bitterness from the 1oz of Chinook @ 60 minutes boil. Thanks

Take gravity readings to see if it has stabilized or if it keeps on dropping. Although it visually looks okay, a wild yeast strain may have infected it and they don't necessarily create pellicles. Taste and take readinre before you decode what to do with it. Good luck mate