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All your points are spot on Bobby. Once pins were cleaned off resistance checked at 10.4 ohms-which meets spec. The copper sleeves lost strength (tempered) and contact pressure from overheating. The split sleeve over pin design only allows for three "lines" of contact vs a flat plug design...

Thanks for inputs guys. Blichmann is insinuating that heat is coming from boil coil pins and you can't tell good from bad with simple resistance check. That is root cause is the coil itself. I'm speculating but it seems like a problem where heating element joins pin and that heating softens...

Fellow brewers- Has anyone using a Blichmann boil coil ever had issues with plug overheating & melting housing? I've had two 55 gallon size plugs overheat and melt plastic plug housing. Running on 208V so less current than rated 240V. Blichmann has replaced one under warranty but I'm doubtful...

I'm late to this discussion but our brewpub purchased a 500g block and I made a simple Pale to give it a try. Pretty typical grist but with a sizeable dose of rye to enhance mouthfeel. Pitched 12 g of LA01 into a 1026 wort (7P or 1028 was target) and all looked good. Fermentation active for two...

I managed to fix the leaking diaphragm by replacing the little o-ring (0.25 OD X .07W, dash 010 size) seen in the top left image.

I think they said it was a 96 series. The order description was Premium Three Product Secondary Co2 Regulator [KC LHC-96-S3]. I may try replacing the small o-ring (visible in first photo) that the plunger cone seals against as I think that's what's leaking.

I'm looking for a supplier for the CO2 diaphragm shown in these photos. The regulators were purchased from Beverage Factory in 2015 but they are from a Kegco series that's no longer made. At least that's what I was told. I'd appreciate any tips for where I can purchase them.

Thanks for the conversation about pasteurizing and lack of 11g sachets. I'm aware of the pasteurizing requirement. At home I'll serve from a keezer so beer will always be cold. Same at our brewpub where we'll never package the beer-it will always be cold. But, my post was questioning an approach...

I really like the idea of using DME/LME for the test brews. It'll be much easier than all grain to make small batches with less risk.

Since the yeast is slightly POF positive I'm looking at a Witbier. I want the style to compliment our customer base that would be drawn to LA beer.

Fellow Brewers-I've managed to get a block of Fermentis LA-01 yeast for brewing low alcohol beer. In a nutshell, this yeast only attenuates about 20% by conversion of simple sugars (Glucose) only. Fermentis recommends a 7P (1028) wort to achieve 0.5% ABV. So, my question is bitterness...

My experience with 240V on a 12" long RIMS tube for mash temp control, ramping or mash-out has been poor. I heat strike water at 240V but once I mash-in I switch to 120V to prevent scorching. If I try to increase flow rate I risk sticking the mash. Maybe a longer tube & element that reduces...

FWIW-When I built my control box I placed the SSR's (3 X 40A Foteks running 5500W elements) and heat sink so the cabinet wall was sandwiched in-between. This left the heat sinks on the outside and I oriented them so fins are vertical to promote convection flow. Also left the paint on cabinet...

I ran a 50 circuit but after many brews I find max draw is 36 A for about 15 minutes from two 4400w @ 240V elements while simultaneously heating mash for mashout (via RIMS) and heating sparge water. In reality, I normally mashout at 1100w to avoid scorching which brings peak demand to 27A.

Wonderful woodwork-well done!

Does anyone know if a 3/8 (size 6 with 9/16-18 thread) JIC male will thread into and seal with a Firestone pin lock post? Thanks!

Can't use a PID to control a boil since a simmer and turbulent boil are at the same temperature. Manual mode, which I think uses PWM control, from your PID is an option. Personally, I use and prefer an SSVR with and quick adjustment of a potentiometer (those hot breaks can rise quickly!) which...

First of all-welcome to Homebrewtalk! I recall seeing someone hack an induction cooktop to access the temp sensor in an attempt to override the control. Seemed like it was mounted on the center of the coil. Not sure if it was on this site or elsewhere. It may be of help if you do some searching...

That's correct. A PID, at least the type generally used for e-Brewing, only turn the element 100% on or off. As the set point is reached you will see it cycle on and off frequently. There is another form of ssr called an ssvr that can be used for controlling power to the element. That is...

Spike is awesome. I need some bling for the holidays.