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To calculate the amount of water you need, you essentially need to take where you want to end, and add water for all your losses, and get to where you need to start. I don't have the information about your particular setup, so it's hard to land it perfectly.... That kit is designed for 5...

If he's brave that won't be a problem. I believe I spy a hot tub behind that boil kettle!

I personally have the all-grain version of this on tap right now, and I think it's good as is. Its a well-balanced and fruity, mildly bitter. Low end IPA, upper end Pale ale bitter. I doubled the dryhop for a little more umph, and because I had 4 oz each of citra and cascade, and no current...

I have 5 taps (1 nitro) and am the only one in my house currently. I would say my average is 2-3 months. If I have something that seems to be going downhill, or has reached it's peak, it will get more attention. I think if you're the only one drinking, it's useful to lean toward styles that will...

The layer of krausen will basically be just a ring around the edge, what I can see in the photo from post 9, with just a bit on the right is about all you'll see. The airlock will get going a bit more than once per 10, every 2-3 at least. At least that's my experience with the recipe using that...

That pretty much clears your diptube. Do you have any other kegs you can try? It sounds like your poppet isn't clogged, but sometimes the connection made between the liquid disconnect and the poppet don't fit well. Especially on universal poppets. If the poppet and the disconnect don't fit...

Make sure the taps and lines are cold, warm beer generally wants to foam. You could lower your pressure. Foam at the end could indicate the system is out of balance, meaning that at the tap, the pressure isn't zero. Your other option is to add restriction, that's where adding line would help...

Sadly that is in fact that one that works most correctly. 1/4" diameter is generally used for long runs, because it has less restriction. Think places like bars and brewpubs. Notice if you switch it to 3/16 it's about 1/4 of the length required. The higher flow in the bigger diameter allows for...

It is almost definitely not too much line. It is most likely a clogged poppet, clogged diptube or a bad connection on the liquid side. Disconnect both the gas and liquid lines. Depress the gas side, and make sure it hisses. That will verify it's still under pressure. Next, lightly depress the...

It doesn't work for me either. I click, and it goes, but then redirects to https://latchkeybrewing.wordpress.com/?p=144, with an error. Happens if I click it from inside your blog as well. The German link works the Serendipitous Slap-whatever doesn't.

This site wouldn't have had your answer, and you already got one, but I've found this site to be useful for this in the past. http://freshbeeronly.com/The_Fresh_Beer_List.html

You might consider rolling it around for like 15 min while it's connected at 25. When the bubbling noises stop, you're getting close to your expected pressures. At standard pressures and temps (38 degrees and like 10-12 psi) keg carbing isn't any faster, just easy. It would normally still take...

I would wait until serving time to purge. Get it there, reduce to the 7-8 and let sit in the ice. Then when you're ready to serve, purge and rehook to gas. Should be pretty good at that point. You might have to fiddle a little with the pressure to get the system balanced, but you should be...

You can force carb warm, it will just require more pressure. Visit this chart for an idea of what pressure might work. For a wheat I would thing 2.4-2.6 volumes is about right. As it chills the day of, you'll want to reduce the pressure to where you think it will stabilize. Also, day of, try to...

The flow used in a cfc is generally as fast as you can in the outer-tube, and restrict the wort in the inner-tube until it comes out the temperature you want. Any slowing, or storing in the 'old fermenter' is going to cause a reduction in cooling power. The pre-chiller is a good route to go...

The absence of airlock activity doesn't necessarily denote that its not fermenting. Also, meads can have a tendency to not have any visual signs of fermentation, like a beer would. I don't see anything that stands out as "wrong", assuming you didn't buy honey with some kind of preservative. Give...

If I'm picturing what you're trying to do, it would work similar. The biggest trick to getting similar speeds will be to somehow "flush" the old plastic fermenter to keep the water in there cold. As the hot wort goes through the chiller, the water in the bucket is going to get warmer and warmer...

Those little tan guys have a little power, maybe just a tube from the wort out so you can put the fermenter off to the side? Even if it's just gravity, it should be able to go up a little bit if you put the hose in the bottom of the fermenter for siphon power.

I don't think I'm understanding the problem. Why is this the height an issue? The way the CFC works doesn't have much to do with the shape so much as the structure. The spiral will help to keep the water moving around the inner pipe and prevent a warmer layer near the inner tube. Part of why...

I have a pH meter, and use grocery store bulk RO water. Fill up my jugs. The TDS reading on the front of the machine generally matches the reading given by my meter. The downside of using store water is that I don't control when, or how the machine is maintained. There are 3 readings on it, 9/2...